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Preamps, Modifications & Upgrades / Re: Slotted Harp Brackets...
« Last post by Chris Carroll on Today at 07:08:26 PM »
Looks good, nice and clean- this is something we did about 10 years ago but stopped doing because it was too hard to cut the metal without the proper machinery like you have done. Your cuts look really clean better than what we had done, I bet it works well. These days, we have found that grinding the side of the tone bar is quick and very effective without any adverse effects.

Good job!
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If you compare hardness of neoprene tips between 1973-1975 you will find considerable hardness differences between the years. This isnt a very big deal. The 5 five grades are a compromise. This compromise can be improved by a tech to expand the variation to for instance 7 grades , by combining different tips. The split points would be largely determined by the amount of bell you want and the the kind of tip the tine wants to produce enough volume.

I personally round of the square 1972-1975 hammertips just a little bit to make the contact surface just a bit smaller and have a more precise striking point (less broad), although still broader than the 1976-1982 tips. 1975 can be pretty soft over the entire range , 1974 doesnt have the originally red color coded ones at all (extra yellow ones instead , so 4 grades) , which is a clear mistake. Soundwise I have no problem at all with the 1976-1982 tip with the graded height , compared to the more equal height of the earlier years.


I think the best Herbie Hancock sounds were done with real pianostyle felt hammerheads (tracks like "Nobu" / 4th track of "Mister Hands" / 1st track "Direct Step") but I never got into that , since I judge this as being very difficult , involving needling and voicing beyond my capacities. (And the hammerheads probably not suitable for the bottom 2 octaves of a 73keys , simply because they are too hard for the thinner modern tine , too much bell.) I also think that the thinner modern tines themselves would deteriorate in soundquality much faster due to the harder impact . (I never worked with the thicker Raymacs.)
That also explains the uniqueness of the aforementioned sublime rhodes-tracks which were never really equaled by anyone.

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Preamps, Modifications & Upgrades / Re: Slotted Harp Brackets...
« Last post by tjh392 on Today at 03:49:12 AM »
Great work Sean.

I've always thought the mod which Chris did at VV was a good idea, obviously there could be the danger that their particular method may affect the structural integrity of the bracket as it took out a lot more of the material but this method won't.

I definitely want to try this out. 

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Preamps, Modifications & Upgrades / Slotted Harp Brackets...
« Last post by sean on Today at 12:34:32 AM »

Here is my solution for buzzing harp brackets.  It keeps the harp brackets from touching the tonebars.




I cut the slots using a 5/16" end mill.  I should have been more precise with this, but I was in a hurry that day.  I just marked approximate endpoints for the slots with a pencil.  I then removed the harp brackets from three pianos and took them over to my dad's machine shop.  I think I tried to get the slots to be 1/4" from the top edge of the brackets, but after installing them I realized that I could have centered them, or I could have actually measured exactly where the center of the tonebar was. In spite of my haphazard preparation, they all came out looking good and working fine.

Note that the slots are not the same length or location on the two brackets.  That is because the tonebar sections that would rub against the bracket are different in each location.

I don't really know how I would attempt to cut the slots without a milling machine.  I guess I could have tried to drill out the endpoints, and then saw between them, but I would never have gotten such clean straight lines.

Even with the slots, the brackets are still stiff and strong.  Cutting the slots exposes fresh unprotected metal that will probably show some rust in a few years, so I wiped a little oil along the slots.  I hope that works well enough.  I thought about painting over the exposed metal with clear nail polish, shellac, or varnish; but I took the lazy way out.

When they are installed in the piano, you don't really notice the slots unless you are up close and looking for them, so it doesn't destroy the vintage appearance of the piano when the harp cover is off (or on, obviously).


Sean


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Other Keyboards & Software Synths / Re: Turning my Pianet T into a Pianet N
« Last post by sookwinder on Yesterday at 11:32:44 PM »
Forgive me for maybe not understanding, but what is your final desired outcome?

- A Pianet T that has an active preamp  (like the Pianet N)
or
- A Pianet T that sounds like a Pianet N ?

Given that the sound of the Pianet N is more than just the tynes/reeds and the pads, you have the active preamp there as well.

David
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Thanks,

I will try adjusting the escapement and strike line with the harp lowered and see if this solves the hammer noise.
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The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / Re: Plural of Rhodes
« Last post by tjh392 on Yesterday at 05:36:33 AM »
Fender Rhides

Currently my favourite  ;D
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Other Keyboards & Software Synths / Re: Turning my Pianet T into a Pianet N
« Last post by OZDOC on Yesterday at 04:07:13 AM »
Making N reeds would be an expensive exercise - much more expensive than buying them.
Look out for a Combo Pianet in a trashed case to buy.
It will be cheaper than an N - and all the internals are the same.
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Damn I thought that might be the case. A whole set might prove to be uneconomical although I do I have a set of 'T' reeds to sell/swap. How hard would the reeds be to make I wonder?
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Other Keyboards & Software Synths / Re: Turning my Pianet T into a Pianet N
« Last post by OZDOC on Yesterday at 01:31:38 AM »
It's an interesting notion.
You could try just one N reed first and see what issues arise.
The capacitance pick up system in an N is charged at around 100V.
The first thing would be to check out whether N reeds are the same length - or near enough that the T pick-up tabs can be bent.
And you may find that the steps in length are different between the two instruments so that the pick up position works for some and not for others.
You will also need to consider how you get a set of reeds.
You may have to purchase a complete N or Combo N to get them.
Last time I bought new N reeds they were $25 each.
Love to know what you find out.
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