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As long as you've wired the transformer correctly, that your hot and neutral should be correct. It's a standard cable, so unless those wires were somehow mixed up, it will be right. Of course, if you want to double check, you could do so with an ohmmeter/multimeter.

Sorry, I see that you said that you don't have the power cable. How were you planning on connecting it? You can replace it with a standard computer A/C plug/receptacle. That might be your easiest bet. You could double check with your supplier (since they gave you wiring help already) to determine which is the neutral and which is the hot/live. (Or just look at any documentation supplied with the transformer.) Once you know that, you can work your way back to make sure you connect the prongs correctly.

Generally, the hot/neutral don't matter on the transformer itself, but depending on what else the AC connects to (like the light), it's not a bad idea to trace it correctly.

Does that make sense?
I have some brand new, unused VV reed bar shields for the 200. If you need some, send me a message. I'd like to get $40 for them. That seems fair, right? (They're $49 at VV.)



I have connected the new transformer and is going to connect the power but my Wurly came without a power cable so I'm really unsure what wires is phase and what is Null. I can see the Grund but apart from that nothing.

But my worry is also that there is more to do. some rewiring other fuses etc.
For Sale / Re: Wurlitzer 206A, Lot of 9 in WV
« Last post by cinnanon on Yesterday at 10:36:36 AM »
I notice way more quality issues on the student models that are rare to see on what I'd call "professional" models. Some of the issues I see are:

Uneven damper lift
Weaker upper octave due to reedbar mfg. issues
Keybed bases that are warped

I can imagine the scenario that workers who were building the student models used the lesser quality components because they knew students most-likely only going to be playing C scales all day long, how much would they care? 

Just some things I have noticed over the years.
I see what you mean Paleophone, but I've never had to do that kind of shimming in a Wurlitzer.

General info for everyone regarding this:

 The height of the reed bar is set at the factory with the original white plastic shims.(Black rubber in old models)  You should not have to add shims to a Wurlitzer Reed bar unless the originals are missing. (NEVER use metal washers!) It's not like shimming a Rhodes harp for escapement, there are internal adjustments in a Wurlitzer for correcting this.(let off in a Wurlitzer)  If the Reed bar is raised too high, the hammer stroke will be incorrect. Stroke and strike line are 2 different things. I don't remember off the top of my head what the stroke should be in a Wurlitzer, but it is a standard height that shouldn't be altered too much.

To be more clear, I am talking about the distance between the tips of the hammers and the bottom of the reeds when the hammers are at rest. That is the hammer stroke.

Strike line is the sweet spot on the Reed where the hammer actually strikes for optimum tone. (front to back, not up and down)
For Sale / Re: Wurlitzer 206A, Lot of 9 in WV
« Last post by pianotuner steveo on Yesterday at 07:11:17 AM »
The 206A is not lesser quality than a 200 or 200A, they are just a little different. No built in vibrato, larger speakers, and a few other minor differences, but the quality is the same... I will never chop my 206A! When I had 12 of them to sell, I had to chop a couple at the buyers' request . It was interesting to do the process, but I won't do it to mine.  None of mine had burlap for grill cloths.
The Wurlitzer Electric Piano / Re: Wurlitzer 200 Regulation Self Service
« Last post by Paleophone on March 21, 2017, 11:18:06 PM »
I mean that a major point of shimming under the 4 corners of each reed bar is so they don't rock on one or the other diagonal. Ever go to a restaurant and get a table with a slightly short leg, or an uneven floor?  The table will tip back and forth.  If you have even the slightest amount of this on a reed bar, when you tighten the four corner screws, you will twist the reed bar and it will be stressed in a way that hurts the sustain.
The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / Re: Just scored an early Sparkletop!
« Last post by The Real MC on March 21, 2017, 06:44:59 PM »
The amp chassis is obviously a guitar amp mounted upside down.  It would be a model with vibrato given the rear panel control for vibrato speed.

As for the controls, it may be possible that concentric controls weren't available at the time or there were so few of this model made that they opted to use existing stock rather than buy a large quantity.  It is anybody's guess what the controls do, whether it is a preamp or just extensions of the controls that used to be on the adapted guitar amp.

That's a cool find though!
The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / Re: Bridle straps on EARLY sparkletop
« Last post by The Real MC on March 21, 2017, 06:37:45 PM »
Did someone put neoprene tips on your old hammers, or am I seeing things?

The felt hammer set was interchangeable with the plastic/wood hammer set.  I found my sparkletop like that.  Actually a great sound.
The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / Re: Just scored an early Sparkletop!
« Last post by Ben Bove on March 21, 2017, 12:21:57 PM »
I can only guess it's Vol, Treb, Bass, Intensity and speed?  It's wild that nothing is labeled
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