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Other Keyboards & Software Synths / Re: CP-70 Power supply
« Last post by sean on Today at 01:44:01 AM »

Twenty years ago, I would have said you must have a linear power supply for any audio gear.  Clearly, that was based on prejudice, bad information, and primitive switching designs. 

However, modern switching power supplies are quiet, clean, light, and efficient.  They are used in all kinds of audio gear today.  Modern switching power supplies don't switch in the audio frequency range, they have effective output filters, and their efficiency is unbeatable.  Get one that is spec'ed correctly for your project, and you will be happy.

Linear power supplies are comparatively bulky, heavy, and electrically inefficient (so they create a lot of waste heat).  But they work, and they aren't ugly expensive.

Make sure you buy the plug adapter with that Mean Well power supply!  The Wisconcin-specific plug adapter is sold separately! 
The MeanWell GE12I18 units are indeed switching power supplies (the only hint on the spec sheet is the hiccup-mode overload protection).

There are cheaper and smaller power supplies (like Triad WSU180-0450 or WSU180-0450-R), but Tim's right - new power supplies have wimpy cables.

If this were my piano, I think I might get rid of the 2-pin XLR connector and replace it with something else.  Three-pin XLR would be cheap and easy, but might cause confusion and mishaps on stage.  Maybe I would leave the original 2-pin XLR, but add a 2.1mmID/5.5mmOD connector nearby (like Switchcraft  721AFMS, or 721A, or one of the similar locking jacks).

The Wurlitzer Electric Piano / Location of output jacks on a 200/200A
« Last post by beginnersluke on Yesterday at 10:21:32 AM »
I have a quick question for which I couldn't find an answer in other threads, or (surprisingly) an image search on google.

I was curious about the position/placement of the output jacks for the line-out (aux) and headphones. On the retrolinear website, for their amp output board, there's a photo of what seems like an original output plate -- with AUX and PHONES labels.

Where is this on the piano? Is it the bottom left corner (if looking from the top)? That's where my 206A had the headphone jack (photo included for fun). It's both just tight to add a second jack (but could be done, I think), plus I'd like to make it more faithful to original Wurlitzer ideas.

Bottom line: if someone would be kind enough to snap a photo of the inside of a 200A showing the output jacks, I'd be much obliged.


Buying / Re: Clean Rhodes 78 or ugly 72?
« Last post by guizmo on Yesterday at 10:12:12 AM »
If the pickups are close to the tines it's normal to have a fat sound.
I think the rhodes's impedance is lower than a guitar, so it's normal too to have more juice with the rhodes.
A guitar has 6 strings, but with a piano you can play 10 notes at the same time + the ones you play with your sustain pedal... That makes the signal even fatter, and make your headphone amp overdrive...

The hammer tips are a big factor in sound differences between early and late models, it's a good thing to be able to compare a 72 with a 78 side by side, you'll get the best sounding to your ears.

The color on the tips represents the hardness, so yes, if they are slightly colored, they might be originals (if they are totally colored they are VV reissues).
Take a look on the 1st picture on this link :
Buying / Re: Clean Rhodes 78 or ugly 72?
« Last post by eddie_bowers on Yesterday at 09:48:29 AM »
Yes I did. It was surprisingly hot though. I like a dirty rhodes sounds, but I couldn't get it clean with my little battery powered headphone amp (made for guitar, but I turned off all the modeling and effects). The pickups do appear to be adjusted as close as possible. It has a nice fat sound. Less clear and percussive as the 78, but that could be a difference in setup and hammer tips. It has the cube tips. Some badly indented. Some show a hint of paint color (original tips?).
Buying / Re: Clean Rhodes 78 or ugly 72?
« Last post by guizmo on Yesterday at 05:09:56 AM »
Cool ! Did you like the sound coming from the harp?
Have you tried the 76 too ? Differences between the 2 ?
Parts, Service, Maintenance & Repairs / Master Satellite amp distorting
« Last post by craig on March 19, 2019, 10:06:54 PM »
Hi all. I have a master satellite speaker that I'm trying to get up and running. Actually, it is up, and it is running, but it distorts. I've got 33v going to the preamp and I've done some work to it.

Replaced both output transistors with Motorola MJ15003
replaced all (3) filter caps with 5000uf 100v caps (one cap is on preamp board/external amp assembly)
replaced R16 - 44r (2x22r resistors in series) 2 watt resistors with one 50r 3 watt resistor.
replaced R8 with 100r 5w resistor
replaced C4 - 80uf 75v cap with 100uf 100v cap
replaced C13 - 5uf 50v cap with same

The amp is loud...really loud and distorted. Any thoughts?
Buying / Re: Clean Rhodes 78 or ugly 72?
« Last post by eddie_bowers on March 19, 2019, 05:18:54 PM »
I visited the piano today and tested it. It has one dead pickup (no big deal). I can only get sound directly off the harp. That preamp (assuming that's what it is) currently doesn't function. Good news for negotiating a price.

I was a little surprised that the output from the harp easily distorted the input on my little zoom headphone amp. I expected it to be lower than a guitar signal.

The guy suggested he might let it go for $500.
I just need to scrape up a tiny bit more cash and it's mine.
I asked if I could put some money down, but he told me not to worry about it "it will still be here in the next couple of weeks".
Other Keyboards & Software Synths / Re: CP-70 Power supply
« Last post by EauClaireGuy on March 19, 2019, 02:48:53 PM »
You want to buy a 18v DC power adaptor with enough current to power the piano.

The CP70b only takes 40ma so go with something higher than that. All the aftermarket supplies I see online use 500ma - 600ma so they provide more than enough power.

Does this need to be linear or can it be switching?
Parts, Service, Maintenance & Repairs / Rhodes upper octave "scream"
« Last post by thetrufflehog on March 19, 2019, 11:54:05 AM »
I've looked around for a while and cannot find anything on this issue I'm having with a few notes in the upper octave of my Rhodes!
Pehaps I am not naming the issue right, but the best way I can describe it is that I have a few notes in the top octave that have a sort of "scream" or "gargle" - basically it's a really fast beating. The sound is vastly more prominent when a note is struck acoustically without the piano plugged into an amplifier, but it does still create some unpleasant overtones when amplified, and it makes tuning these few notes much harder.

My tech said some tonebar clips might help tame the "scream", but it did not. I've tuned to ET as well as a percision strobe tune Rhodes stretch map, which also had no effect.

Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated!
The Wurlitzer Electric Piano / Re: Is leaving 200a plugged into mains a fire risk?
« Last post by KeysAlUk on March 18, 2019, 10:39:59 AM »
Thankyou for your advice, everyone.
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