Author Topic: Refinishing a Name Rail  (Read 290 times)

Online pizzyflavin

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Refinishing a Name Rail
« on: May 19, 2017, 10:07:12 AM »
Hey everyone,

I'm fixing up the name rail (and everything else) on my '77 MkI Stage. Initially I was just going to bead blast it, which I did, but the results were not consistent enough for me. Looked great in most spots, but I guess my technique isn't great because there were certain areas that had a different appearance. Anyway, I remembered seeing this thread: http://ep-forum.com/smf/index.php?topic=5988.0 where sunrunner painted his '77 MkI name rail, and decided to take the same route.

Here are some "before pictures" of the name rail:



And here it is during and after the bead blast process:




I went with VHT self-etch primer and Seymour Alumi-Blast paint. With the fresh bead blasting finish, I applied several light coats of primer and allowed it to dry overnight. (Bad low-light photo below)



Here it is painted with about four or five coats of the Seymour Alumi-Blast:




I'm pretty satisfied with the results, the rail looks great. Very close to the actual bead blasted finish. The question now is whether I need to put on a clear coat of some kind to protect the finish. Anyone here have experience or opinions on this matter?

Offline Ben Bove

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Re: Refinishing a Name Rail
« Reply #1 on: May 19, 2017, 12:03:56 PM »
If it's just paint with no protective coating, I would hit it with a coat of clear.  Over time, it will get nicks and scratches just from general use, and you'd hate to have to touch it up.

They have matte-finish clear coat, so that it doesn't add any unneeded shine... which might look more original but still have some protective durability.
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Offline pnoboy

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Re: Refinishing a Name Rail
« Reply #2 on: May 22, 2017, 11:43:36 AM »
If it's just paint with no protective coating, I would hit it with a coat of clear.  Over time, it will get nicks and scratches just from general use, and you'd hate to have to touch it up.

They have matte-finish clear coat, so that it doesn't add any unneeded shine... which might look more original but still have some protective durability.

The name rail is clear anodized, which means it is quite hard, and impermeable to ordinary detergents or solvents.  The bead blasting may well remove the anodizing.  Before doing anything like that I would try a good, strong detergent, like dish-washing liquid and a plastic-bristled scrub brush, followed by a rinse in the sink.  If any discolorations were left, I'd try a solvent such as alcohol and/or mineral spirits.  The bad thing about paint is that it is very soft in comparison to anodize, and although a painted name rail may look great just after painting, its beauty may not last long.

Online pizzyflavin

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Re: Refinishing a Name Rail
« Reply #3 on: May 26, 2017, 11:23:40 AM »
I didn't realize the name rail was clear anodized. As I was bead blasting it, it was apparent that some sort of finish was coming off. There were stains on rail that I couldn't remove with a detergent or solvent, so I felt like this was a good last option.

I've gone ahead and ordered a can of matte clear coat (Dupli-Color HWP106). I'll post results as soon as it gets here. If the results aren't satisfactory, I can always bead blast it again and get it clear anodized.

Thanks for the feedback, guys.

Offline pnoboy

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Re: Refinishing a Name Rail
« Reply #4 on: June 01, 2017, 06:19:27 PM »
It occurs to me to mention that if a detergent and a solvent won't take the stains off the name rail.  I'd try experimenting with a chlorine bleach solution.  I don't think it will hurt the anodized finish, but to be sure you could try it on the back side first.  There really shouldn't be much that will hurt the clear anodize.  Clear anodize is typically what's on aluminum-looking storm doors (i.e., not the painted ones), and although such doors can get a bit ugly looking after a few years, they're out in the cold, heat, rain, snow and sun.

Offline Ben Bove

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Re: Refinishing a Name Rail
« Reply #5 on: June 08, 2017, 03:42:09 PM »
For me, best solution has always been light windex with a brush, then rubbing compound for auto.
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