In need of new front rail and balance rail pins.

Started by yogiboy, March 04, 2012, 03:14:07 PM

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yogiboy

Yay, my first post! I'm beginning repairs on a 1974 fender rhodes stage model that I just bought. This is my first attempt at electric piano repair and I'm running into a problem. Someone spilled a drink in this thing decades ago and neglected to open it up and try to clean it up immediately. This resulted in rotten keys, disintegrated bushings and punchings, but more seriously, corroded front rail and balance rail pins. There are about 15 pins altogether that have dissolved to half their usual thickness. I've had trouble finding replacements that are the right size. I've not seen any on V.V. and piano suppliers seem to have the wrong type (or maybe I'm just measuring wrong.) So what's the standard, and where can I get them? Thanks a million...         

The Real MC

Rhodes mixed keysets from different suppliers over the years.  They are not interchangeable as the pins do not line up.  Found this out the hard way, even for keys that are full wood or hollow keyshells.  I would recommend keeping an eye out for a complete keyset, they pop up on the 'bay on occasion.

yogiboy

Yikes... I was afraid of that. Thanks for your reply.

pianotuner steveo

No, you do not need to replace the entire key frame. They are removable and replaceable, but I do not knpw how to advise you to find the exact size pins. Maybe someone would have a keyframe for the exact model you have for parts. The other thing is, removing the pins usually chews up the plating, they can be tough to remove. You may be able to remove the entire frame and punch the pins through from the bottom.

1960 Wurlitzer model 700 EP
1968 Gibson G101 Combo organ
1975 Rhodes Piano Bass
1979 Wurlitzer 206A EP
2009 73A Rhodes Mark 7
2009 Korg SV-1 73
2017 Yamaha P255
2020 Kawai CA99
....and a few guitars...

yogiboy

I did notice the difficulty in removing them. But the ones I'm replacing are so far gone that there's no plating left on them to scratch up. Vandaking.com has pins that are similar in size, slightly longer and just a touch to thick. I thought I could cut them to the right length, and if they are too wide, just ease the bushings quite a bit. At least I can buy them individually instead of in bulk in case it doesn't work out.

pianotuner steveo

Yeah, I dont recommend buying the wrong size and cutting them.

There must be someone here that has a Rhodes keyframe for parts... anyone?

1960 Wurlitzer model 700 EP
1968 Gibson G101 Combo organ
1975 Rhodes Piano Bass
1979 Wurlitzer 206A EP
2009 73A Rhodes Mark 7
2009 Korg SV-1 73
2017 Yamaha P255
2020 Kawai CA99
....and a few guitars...

sean

Don't cut the balance rail pins, just let them stick up higher than the rest.  It won't matter if they are a little longer.

The pins are press-fit into the oak balance rail without any glue.  The don't go in straight, they sit at an angle.  The pins lean back away from the player a little bit.

I think that you should not expect to be able to set the new pins in the old holes snugly.  I don't think you should be afraid of cheating and using some epoxy.  Of course, this will be frustrating and messy.  Get a scrap piece of oak to test your methods!

The pins don't have to be super-duper tight, they just have to be immobile.  If you can get the new pins into the old holes, and they are not loose; then don't use any glue.  But the holes are really easy to damage when you take out the old pins, and really easy to damage with the new pin; so you will have to be careful and lucky.  The pin will NOT just obediently follow the path of the old hole in the rail, it will try to ruin the hole as it goes it, so you really need a jig to create the perfect insertion angle.

I would build a little jig to get the job done.  Maybe cut a block of wood at an angle as a guide block for the pin to rest against while you are pusing it in, and I would try use a large screw to push the pin into the hole.   (Because I don't own an arbor press.)  I mean that I would arrange to turn the screw to force the pin into the hole slowly and smoothly.

Resist the urge to hammer the pins into the hole.

You could also adapt a drill press to provide the even force to install the pins.  Maybe you could even use the chuck to hold the pin while inserting it.  (You will have to do something to keep the jaws of the chuck from scatching the pin.)


The guide rail pins might be a problem if they stick up to high, so maybe you will have to saw off the bottom of the pin before inserting it (if they are too long).   They get inserted straight down, so will probably be easier to install.  Since these pins are easy to twist, you might not damage the holes as much.

Good luck with it.

Sean



yogiboy

These are all great tips. I really appreciate the help. Who'd have thought a few pins would be so much trouble?

David Aubke

Here's someone selling a keyframe with pins
The listing is for a suitcase bottom but they're also selling some misc parts separately.
Dave Aubke
Shadetree Keys