Rare 1965 Gold Top Student Model 73 - Need help from forum members please!

[Nelson 54]

Hi fellow forum members.  I have a hold on a rare early student Rhodes 73 with the gold sparkle top. I have some photos appended and I've requested more "under the hood." Want to see pickups, felts, etc. Looks to be in excellent cosmetic shape - some unevenness to the keybed at the left side but keys, wood and fiberglass look great. Does not have an original pedestal stand but does have threaded leg flanges.  I'm not sure if the control box - which can feed an outboard amp like a stage model - was ever affixed to the bottom or, as it is now, sat on the side as an outboard feature.  The blank gold anodized plate on the left side looks original as I've seen photos like this. VERY VERY low serial #S73A-0002   (maybe 2nd one off the line???)

I'm looking for guidance: 
1. I'm trying to figure out a "no-brainer" price range to acquire it in this condition.
2. If I have it shipped on approval, what specific red flags to look for (or ask about in advance of shipping)
3. How collectible/marketable this is (if I'm looking to it as an investment as well as playable instrument)
4. If it's set up to go on legs like a stage and a get a good bag or case to move it (like the Studio Slips clamshell bag for my Wurli 200A) should this be even transported locally to dates - or are these early sparkle top era pianos too fragile?

See photos below and thanks in advance for your time and advice!!!!

 

[Nelson 54]

Here are some additional photos of the Gold Sparkle Top Rhodes Student 73

[Nelson 54]

Here are additional photos of a makeshift leg hole, the innards of the pre-amp/control box, and the full scale of tone bars.  The serial number is still low, but it's -0021, not -0002 as reported above (misreported by seller).  There are two additional holes underneath, I assume to connect an original two pole pedestal stand, and a felt lined hole for the damper. 

[spave]

Hi Nelson,

I'm not an expert on these really early student models but here's my two cents.

First, I do think the control box was affixed to the bottom originally. I found this photo of a similar model with it on the bottom so it likely was factory. My guess is that this gold top was a transition unit between the originals with the knobs where the gold plate is and the later Jetson pianos where there was a spot under the keys to properly mount it.

https://i.pinimg.com/originals/98/13/ec/9813ec0d4b00f758ce682d9bdbed7405.jpg


As far as a "No brainer price" goes, without knowing the condition of the tines or action parts I would say anything under $2k if you are in the US. Any replacement tines or felt hammers will be major $$$ if you can even find them and the other action parts will likely be very labor intensive to fix as well. If everything under the hood looks good and plays well then it would be worth more but it wouldn't be a "no brainer" without seeing it in person first unless you get a lot more pictures/video to confirm.


As far as collectability goes, this one is a mixed bag. On one hand it is incredibly rare and very cool looking but it is also very difficult to maintain and the sound of the early models isn't known for being as desirable as later Rhodes. The two types of buyers for this keyboard would likely be A. a collector looking for a ground-up restoration with only period correct parts or B. someone looking for a custom build that looks cool and has modern reliable parts. Option B would look something like the custom student model that CV keys did a few years ago.
https://www.facebook.com/cvkeyboards/photos/pb.100044696209443.-2207520000./947548948769323/?type=3

Because of the missing parts, this unit would be a better contender for option B which would entail some fairly extensive custom modifications. If that's in your wheelhouse then I'd say go for it but just remember, finding a buyer for a one-off build would likely be tough so only do it if you would be happy owning it long term. Also, due to the rarity, the retail price for option A or B will be mainly dependent on where you are selling it, parts/labor, and how badly a buyer wanted it. There really isn't a price guide for these restored early models or complete custom builds.

Also, as far as gigging goes, I'd advise against it. The fiberglass is likely very fragile and all the extra wood in the early actions makes them even more susceptible to temperature and humidity changes. I'd bring your 54 and leave this one as a studio piece.


Hope this helps. If you end up getting it, post some audio/video if you get a chance. It's always nice to hear these early models.

Cheers!

[Alan Lenhoff]

My two cents:

Buy it if you love it, appreciate how unique it is, and are willing to put a lot of time and money into its restoration for your personal pleasure. Don't buy it as an investment. The lack of the original pedestal stand is a big deal, because it's a significant part of the look of the instrument. I don't think a serious collector would be interested in buying this from you except to use its parts to restore another instrument. The collector would know that the odds of ever finding an original stand for it are exceptionally low. And without the stand, it's not a showpiece.

That said, it's very cool!

Alan

[Nelson 54]

Spave, Alan — thanks for your wisdom on this.  I love the look and the rarity but I've got to be practical.  The price is high—$3k—snd while it's reputed to play and sound great, I can't take a chance to see and hear it in person because I would eat a hefty shipping charge if I reject it on approval.  I might consider it at half the price but I don't think that would happen and I'm going to be smart about this. 

I realize these are very rare and cool but, to the point both of you made, an incomplete set up will not speak to a collector (on the investment side of such a purchase) and, yes, I too figured that finding a stand would be near impossible. Weight-wise, it would be more portable than a stock Stage 73, not having about 50lbs of tolexed box and lid.  But trying to transport it to dates without risk to the top or mechanics would be a nightmare.

Absent the slim chance I can acquire it for far less than asking, and keep it as a cool studio project, I'll pass and be happy with the Rhodes and Wurli I've got.  Thanks again for weighing in—I appreciate you!!!

[The Real MC]

Do not gig the 1960s Rhodes pianos.  They are not rugged and they go out of tune.

I gigged my '67 sparkletop pianos maybe three times before I grounded it in my studio.  Every time I moved it the piano went out of tune.