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#1
Hello!

I'm picking up a very clean 1972 Rhodes and based on the images and a video call with the owner, it appears to be in close to mint condition. If I want to make sure this piano is playing its best, should any of the action parts be replaced as part of routine maintenance? For example, I would imagine that the rubber grommets might be dried out since they are 52 years old at this point. Ideally, I would like to leave it as original as possible, but getting it in tip-top playing condition is my highest priority.

Thanks for your input!
#2
The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / Re: Early MK1 curiosities
Last post by Alan Lenhoff - Yesterday at 04:39:59 PM
Your "skirted" key caps (plastic on the sides of the keys, unlike the later keys which have bare wood on the sides) and what you call "hollow" keys are consistent with a 1972 Rhodes. But there were no factory pedestal bumps on '72s, so someone altered those keys. I believe this slanted pedestal is what Rhodes was using at that time: https://www.vintagevibe.com/products/fender-rhodes-keys-vintage-slanted-pedestal  I had those pedestals on a 1973 I owned, and the action was very heavy. So, adding a bump to the pedestals was a good idea, unless it was done poorly.

I don't think you'll ever know why someone drilled those extra holes.  There have been a lot of aftermarket preamps people installed over the years, which may have been installed on the right side of the name rail on yours.  Or the drilling might have been for do-it-yourself mods. Who knows?

Alan

#3
I've almost solved the problem! I think someone who did not know what they were doing put the 7/16" nut on the pedal rod aftermarket. I took the bottom plate out, removed the rod, flipped it upside down and wouldn't you know it, the other end is now TOO SMALL to grab 1/4-20 double ended nut. I used Teflon tape and super glue to attach the 1/4-20 double sided nut. (it grips real well) I just need one more just double sided nut like it and a short 1/4 rod. Then, it should reach into the piano and grab the pedal rod inside the piano. One more trip to the hardware store in the morning, and it should work....
Buyer is picking up on Sunday...
#4
The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / Early MK1 curiosities
Last post by btfnk - May 16, 2024, 12:41:45 AM
I recently picked up a MK1 Stage dated 39 72. I've owned a late model 77 MK1 and an MK2 but this is my first early model MK1. I've started doing some basic adjustments and planning restorative fixes (grommet and screws pack is in the mail). I'm finding I have a fair amount of questions and curiosities about it.


I was surprised to find the key pedestal has a wood bump. Is this the standard pedestal shape for 72? I thought they were normally flat during this period. The keys are also hollow.




The namerail has unfortunately been drilled for either a preamp of some sort (which didn't come with it) or someone once upon a time wanted to mount their output on the right side perhaps? It also has a hole in the center under the logo. If anyone has any insight into why those mods would have been made, I'm very interested to know more.
#5
Does anyone have a picture they can send me?
#6
I have a Valente electric piano which combines a simplified action with reeds and passive magnetic pickups. The action is adapted from a hammer-action keybed designed for digital pianos - each key has a couple of extra levers, one for the hammer and the other for the damper, both activated by the existing dummy hammer.
#7
UPDATE: Almost 4 years later and I'm still loving this piano. The samples are about the best I've ever heard, and are very customizable. You can even save sounds to use on specific songs if you want. I only wish that it had more orchestra sounds, and a Hohner Pianet. You can customize the Wurli sound to make it Hohner-like, but you can still hear the difference.
It has uprights, several grands, clav, CP80, several Hammond presets,harpsichords, Wurli and Rhodes, almost anything you would want, and the action feels like an acoustic piano. It even has a touch adjustment with 4 levels.
#8
Sorry I'm just seeing this now. Did you find the issue? Was it a missing felt piece?
#9
If anyone here has a photo of the piano end of the butterfly grand pedal assembly, please PM me, or attach photo here.  I have a buyer for my piano, but I still can't attach the pedal. It has been like this ever since I bought it, the person I bought the piano from claimed they knew nothing about the problem.

Please see the old thread titled "270 Butterfly Grand" started by Steveno. (that's not me) I have a detailed explanation of the issue, plus Cormac attached a photo of my pedal rod end on that thread to help show the issue better.

Thanks in advance. Buyer is picking up the piano this weekend.
#10
The Wurlitzer Electric Piano / Re: 270 Butterfly Grand
Last post by pianotuner steveo - May 13, 2024, 02:56:42 PM
I know this is an old thread, but I still can not connect the pedal to the 270, and I have a buyer for the piano. The nut at the top of the piano is not the same thread size as the internal pedal connection, plus, it does not reach the piano. I bought a piece to extend the internal piano rod, but there is still no way to attach it to the pedal rod. They are TWO DIFFERENT thread sizes. I did not realize that when I bought the extension part.  I would need a piece about 2" long that is 1/4" male on one end and 7/16" male on the other end! I don't think there is such thing. Or, a piece that is about 3" long that is 7/16" male on one end and 1/4-20  female on the other end.

Does anyone have a photo of what the end of the pedal rod is supposed to look like on a 270?
I don't know if Morelock's is still around, but when I called them several years ago, they had no idea what I was talking about .

Thank you to Cormac for adding my picture below. As you can see, the rod does not extend beyond the wood. The rod is all the way up on the pedal end, plus the nut is 7/16"  instead of 1/4". Even  if I could swap the  attached nut for a 1/4"", it's still not long enough. I can't slide a 1/4" up the rod  because of the intentional bends in the rod. Does anyone have any ideas?