Messages

I haven't gotten to try this, but I've heard that using a Dremel tool with a cutoff blade is the best way to do it. I've gotten the tool now, but I haven't cut the tine yet, so I can't advise you on how exactly to go about it. You can also cut tines with wire cutters, but it's a lot harder and doesn't give a nice flat end, which from what I understand can affect the volume of the note.
-Dan

I actually tried something like that: I used two nuts that were too big to fit on the screws and put them between the wood and the back of the latch, so that they acted as a sort of giant washer, and it worked. The latch works perfectly now.
-Dan

The lowest E on my '73 Stage 73 just doesn't sound good. If you hit it too hard, you get a weird "sproing" because the tine hits the tonebar, and the tine is sort of rusty, and doesn't sustain very well. I know part of the problem is the slightly sticky action of the key due to it rubbing other keys, but any advice on getting the tine in better shape, or any mods to make it not hit the tonebar?

Thanks,
Dan

I recently decided to try to clean up the tolex on the "top" of my Fender Rhodes stage piano, and then to see if I could fix the latches that, on the bass end of the piano, did not latch. What I have discovered is that the bottom part of the latch that is attached to the piano half is somewhat dug into the wood, so that the top part of the latch, the actual latch, won't close, which is obviously a problem. My piano is one of the "earlier" ones I suppose with four latches instead of two, with one on theupper end and one on the lower end of the side of the lid, and the latches are of an older style also. Should I simply move the latch on the bass end up to a new spot and install it there so that it isn't in the bad spot, or is there something else I should do? One thing I have noticed is that my lid overhangs just slightly on the bass end, but it fits perfectly on the treble end. Any suggestions, anyone?

Thanks,
Dan

I might be interested in such a thing; a white top sounds cool. I have always liked the shape of the MKI tops better anyway. I am not in need of one, but if they were affordable, I might consider getting a different coloured top if they were to come available.
I suppose what you need to do is try to get more of a price range on the cost of these tops.
-Dan

I have a Fender KXR 60 keyboard amp for my Rhodes (one 10" speaker, one tweeter) which I am basically satisfied with, however, it seems at close to highest volumes, it doesn't perform so well. It just sounds muddy, as if there's too much low or just plain too much sound, but I'm not sure what to do. It has four knobs for tone, set up in the way that a mixing board is, so that zero is at "12 o'clock", and below that to the left is negative, to the right is positive. I have the low and low mid completely cut out, the high mid all the way up (because that is what gives the Rhodes its punch), and the high at one or two o'clock usually. However, as I said, at close to the loudest volumes, it just sounds muddy and klunky in a way; it doesn't sound as good as it does at moderate volumes. Is this something you find everywhere when using an amp for a Rhodes, or do I have a not so good amp/not so good settings? If so, what can I change? I probably can't replace the amp, at least not for now, so should I maybe get a graphic equalizer and try that, or should I just change my settings, or do I simply have to resign to the fact that it can't be put "all the way up" and sound good. This issue has had me for awhile now, so please, give any advice you have.
Thanks,
Dan

I've broken one of those too, and haven't gotten to replace it yet. A temporary fix I found was to use duct tape to tape the strap to the damper. It's not great, but it's gotten me through a couple months with the piano at home. I was looking at Major Key's price list, and they have a "Roll Pin for Dampener Arm", which sounds like the right thing, but it's $8! I find that kind of expensive for that little piece, unless it is some sort of retrofit kit or something. Anyone have any knowledge on this?
-Dan

Does anyone here have any replacement tines from this vintage (circa 1973)? If possible, I would like to buy two.

Thanks,
Dan

I know my tines aren't the old Raymac tines, i.e. the ones that were not tapered, because mine are tapered, but as I recall, they did change them somehow when they came out with the Mark II to make them more durable, and as I said before, I'm pretty sure mine are the same vintage of my piano; circal 1973.

I have YET AGAIN broken a tine in my Rhodes. First of all, I would like to know; is this a common occurence with Rhodes pianos, or are mine just old and brittle? And also, I will obviously need a replacement tine. I have a 1973 Stage piano, and I'm guessing the tines are about the same age. So, if you have any tines long enough for the second "C" on a 73-key Rhodes, please contact me.
Thanks,
Dan

I'm no expert on Rhodes pianos, especially appraising older ones, but from what I understand, if anything, the silver tops are valuable simply because there's not as many of them out there. And they are a different design...not quite as effective, but again, from what I understand, if you repair it as you're supposed to (see Rhodes manual, pre-1976 section), they're supposed to be pretty cool. And, hey, the top is silver sparklies! How can you resist that?
Just thought I'd put in my two cents.
-Dan

Ok, so I've posted many different times in different forums about this problem, but I think (once again) I've finally figured my problem out, but I don't know how to fix it, again. For whatever reason, my hammer is "dribbling" on my tine, meaning it hits it and immediately bounces back, muting the tine. The whole hammer just goes up too high; I've compared it's strike height to other hammers, and it's almost always higher, just like it almost always "dribbles". So, does anyone know how to fix this? I've tried a separate hammer that I have, different, hammer tip, and have had no success. The only factor that might be affecting this, although I'm not sure, is that the little metal pin that holds my bridle strap is missing on that damper, so I have it duct taped on, which seems to work just as well when lined up right, but could that possibly be it? I have no spare dampers to test that out. So, PLEASE, if you have any suggestions, let me know.
Thanks a lot,
Dan

I'm having terminology difficulties...are Hammer Pivot Links and Hammer Flanges the same thing, or are they two different things?
Thanks,
Dan

I would LOVE to get my Rhodes teched out, but I am pretty limited in cash, and the techs that are in my area are at least 2 hours away. At least, the ones that I know of. I'm in Lima Ohio in case anyone here knows of any techs close to here. I'm just not sure how expensive it would be. And, I can't help that DIY spirit, you know?

-Dan

Is the sustain too short? If so, you may have tightened it too far down with the phillips head screws that adjust escapement, and also, did you install the rubber grommets that go between the screws and the tone generator? And are your grommets in good condition? I don't have any experience with this personally, but these are just my sort of preliminary guesses. Basically, you want to make sure the tine/tone bar assembly isn't being "muffled" in any way or "choked" by being screwed down too far. Again, my guess.

I'm not a suitcase owner, and I'm fairly new to Rhodes pianos too, but I do know that you do need a 5-pin cable for the suitcase piano, and NOT a standard XLR. You can get the cable you need from www.speakeasyvintagemusic.com , and www.majorkey.com may also have them too. Both sites are great for parts, including the parts for your broken Eb.

Ok, so I have fiddled more with the damper tension, and that appears to have helped some. I haven't yet taken off the harp (I'll do that sometime when I have more time), but I'm still noticing that the hammer on this problem note bounces upward almost twice as much as other hammers after it lands, which is causing my damper to bounce twice as much, which causes it to hit the tine when it's not supposed to. Essentially, it's affecting my sustain on that note greatly. So, has anyone come across this before? This is a replacement hammer; it's the same type as the others, but it didn't come with this piano; the original one was broken, so I had to replace it. Could it be that the hammer is too loose in some aspect? Any suggestions I would highly appreciate.
-Dan

P.S.: I have searched the manual up and down and haven't found much help on this topic, except some help with damper adjustments.

I have looked at this, and unless I am a complete moron, I have done what it says, and it doesn't seem to help much. One thing I never could work out well, however, was how to bend the damper nearer to its base...

Ok...I just reread your post...does anyone know how I could possibly increase damper tension? Please don't tell me that would require all new dampers...*sigh*...although if it does mean that, well then I'll have to check that out.

I checked out the tension, and it looks fine...thank you for the suggestion. I have checked it out many times though, and what happens is the hammer bounces when it hits the wood, which causes the bridle strap to be tensed and loosened again, which therefore causes the damper to "bounce". I just wondered if maybe this were a characteristic of Mark Is or if there's something else wrong with mine... Again, if you have any input on this, please post. Thanks!

P.S.: when I said No. 27, I was referring to the number printed on the tine. I guess it could also be known as the third F sharp/G flat on the keyboard, or the first one below middle C.

Among other things wrong with my 1973 Mark I Stage, my F#/Gb No. 27 tine just broke. The tone generator (I believe it's called; the heavy metal part at the top) is all right, but the tine that the hammer hits has broken in half, so I am apparently in need of a new one. Does anyone have a spare they'd be willing to part with? I would be much obliged if you did   . And please, please, please...if you have ANY input on any of my other questions currently in the forum (mainly the one I have about the tendencys of damper problems in Mark Is)...please post your input. I need all the help I can get.
Thanks,
Dan

My Mark I Stage Piano (1973 model) has a few dampers that double-strike, simply because the hammer itself bounces, not so much as to strike the tine again, but enough to make the damper move. I was wondering if any other of you Mark I owners out there had this same problem, if you had any sucess  remedying it, or if you have tried putting in backchecks (a.k.a cheekblocks...). I really have no idea what to do about mine, and am on the verge of just putting in backchecks, but if anyone else has any other suggestions, I would be happy to try them out, because I'm not really enthusiastic on the prospect of making that kind of a change to the action of my piano; I figure there must be some way that this can be fixed, or else Mark I's would be much less popular models.

Thanks,
Dan

Does anyone know the exact length of the harp mounting screws for a Stage Mark I? Mine, for whatever reason, came without mounting screws, and I need to get some.

Thanks,
Dan

Ok, so I've pretty much determined that my problem is hammers that bounce. I do have an earlier model (1973), and I believe I read that this tends to be a problem with these early models. I still do not know how to fix it. I did read something about putting in backchecks (I think they were called...)...does anyone have any experience with these? Do they change the action considerably? Are they expensive? Are they simple to install? And does anyone have any other solutions or ideas of things to try with these hammers? I'm noticing it's occuring on several different hammers and not just this one.

Thanks,
Dan

I just looked at the action, and I can't seem to find anything different on that key from any others around it...but, I don't quite know what kinds of things to look for. The felts all looked like they were in the same condition...the only consideration I have in this problem is that maybe it's partially caused by the fact that this hammer, although it matches all the others in terms of type, is a replacement I recently installed. Is there something I should do to adjust the hammer installation perhaps? Please, anyone with any suggestions, please reply with them. I can use all the help I can get. This is the most difficult and most annoying problem I've encountered yet.
Thanks,
Dan