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Messages - Jenzz

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1
The Wurlitzer Electric Piano / Re: 200a cheap amp replacement
« on: February 26, 2021, 05:53:55 AM »
Current amp has some nasty crossover distortion, my tech couldn’t find the problem so it’s still there.

Hi .-)

Always check for proper bias. If its too low, you will get this crossover distortion.

Jenzz

2
Hi :-)

Ulf is always fiddling around with tremolo and sound ‘per se’, so he came up with some ideas and had some of the mods done himself.

3 jacks on the far left:

top: insert point between Vol pot and EQ
mid + bottom: preamp outputs

XLR: power supply only

Acc 1 + 2: Effects loop as usual

Ulf has the second version of the preamp (with the ‘faint tremolo’). We corrected this by changing the switch to a DPDT… Cutting the depth pot + stopping the Vactrol LEDs (like on the 1st version).

Things near right of the panel:

Push/push switch for adding an additional set of caps to C8 and C20 for slower/smoother ramp curves.

Pot below the swich: This one is wired as an expression pedal / remote and connected to the jack on the far right of the panel. This is used to have the speed control of the Moog Phaser ‘at hand’ while playing.

Pot with the curve / line marking: Additional possibility of altering the tremolo curve: This is R17 of the schematics ‘as a pot’ (C11 cut out), so the curve can be altered from slice-type square to near triangle.

Jenzz

3
Hi .-)

TODAY !!

Ulf live with HR BigBand !

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t8fM4LG51G4


Jenzz

4
ThX a lot ;-)

Yes, Ulf is one of my log-term Rhodes buddies and a good friend. He is always in for technical minded stuff, like building his own approach of the Dyno Percussion pedal and the like....

Jenzz

5
Hi .-)

We are working on Pianet T's but due to Covid we don't take any work in. We are more than a year (untill Feb. 2022) delayed on our ongoing projects.

Jenzz

6
Hi .-)

The VTL5C3s will work, too, but give a different character of the tremolo wave. They have an overall lower resistance, so with intensity at full, there will be a little bit of signal left.

See the PerkinElmer datasheets:

www.tasteundtechnik.de/bilder/perkinelmer.pdf

Jenzz

7
Hi .-)

Couplers should be VTL5C1... The /2 types have a dual LDR element (hence the 3 wires instead of 2) and are only used by Rhodes in the latest Mk2 Suitcase Preamp circuit ('Blackface' with all rotary knobs)...

Jenzz

8
Hi .-)

If you have a bunch, i would replace them both.

BTW: Did you measure the + / - 15 voltages for the preamp coming from the cabinet? If one or both are siginficantly lower, the LEDs will be darker, too.

Jenzz

9
Hi :-)

Seems that one of the Vactrol Optocouplers is bad. If the intensity pot alters the volume, the LDR in the defective channel goes not down enough in resistance when its LED is lit... Or the LED becomes not bright enough.

Did it work correct before the recab job?

Jenzz

10
The Wurlitzer Electric Piano / Re: Shaking Power Transformer?
« on: October 11, 2020, 12:25:08 PM »
Hi .-)

Do you have the 200 schematic?

42V is ok.

The 1600uF is a 'fake' measurement, but makes kind of sense, because there is another 470 /500 uF filter cap after a 10 Ohms resistor... So nothing wrong here :-)

Jenzz

11
The Wurlitzer Electric Piano / Re: Shaking Power Transformer?
« on: October 10, 2020, 02:53:35 PM »
Hi .-)

You should measure the voltage across the 1000uF filter cap... If you are at roundabout 44 to 46 volts, it's allright.

The '220' stamp only indicates that this is a 4-wire primary EU-Transformer which can be wired for 115V or 230V. The US models have a '115V only' 2-wire primary.

Jenzz

12
The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / Re: What's Wrong With My Rhodes?
« on: September 02, 2020, 05:52:04 AM »
Hi .-)

It should NOT look like this: (see pic)


If it does, the best way to dust off is using compressed air...

Jenzz

13
The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / Re: What's Wrong With My Rhodes?
« on: August 31, 2020, 07:37:00 AM »
Hi .-)

Check for metallic debris around the pickup's magnets... This will often cause strange and distortion-like artifacts...

Jenzz

14
The Wurlitzer Electric Piano / Re: see a wurlitzer 300 here
« on: August 16, 2020, 06:24:40 AM »
Hi :-)

Here's a pic of the german Wurlitzer factory at Hüllhorst where the 300 and EP201 were build...



Jenzz


15
The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / Re: Fender Rhodes Mark 2
« on: August 01, 2020, 07:32:39 AM »
Genau ! .-)

Jenzz

16
Hi .-)

The clavinet.com preamp is akind of 'clone' of the original design (using the Beyer / Pikatron transformer and inductors for the filter) while the VV use their own preamp design, which is more of a 3-band EQ + AutoWah. Both of them sound fine and have a low noise floor, but they sound different.

Jenzz

17
The Wurlitzer Electric Piano / Re: Wurlitzer 200 Audio Input
« on: July 14, 2020, 02:16:03 PM »
Hi .-)

I think you mean the audio input on the PCB (the 2 soldering posts beneath the cinch tone bar input)?

This one was intended to use with a dynamic mic at the 207 models.

Jenzz

18
Hi .-)

Looks like someone 'implanted' a mains powered supply. The 4 diodes in the middle form a bridge rectifier...

Any transformer nearby the pickups will introduce hum, so maybe you should return to the original, battery powered config...

Jenzz

19
Great work !! +1 !

Jenzz

20
Hi .-)

The circuit works with positive ground.

The Reeds and the Pickup are tied together via the output coil of the 'radio circuit'.

Jenzz

21
Pianet CH Owners Manual incl. Schematic:

http://www.hohner-pianet.com/hohner_pianet/pianet_ch.html


Jenzz

22
Hi .-)

BC550C and MPSA18 differ only 1 dB regarding noise, but sometimes it is worth a try.

The additional caps reduce the hiss, but also cut treble, so this mod is a matter of personal taste.

I allways change the 1 meg resistor to a metalfilm type, the 8,2.pF ceramic to a 10pF Mica and the 100uF across the supply to an low ESR type.

Jenzz

23
Other Keyboards & Software Synths / Re: Clavinet D-6 power supply specs
« on: January 12, 2020, 02:17:51 PM »
Hi :-)

Take a look onto the schematics (and the 'real thing', too):

Clavinet C, D6, E7, Pianet Duo have center negative.


Jenzz

24
Hi .-)

If you are located in Germany, feel free to give me a call, maybe i can help with parts etc...

05722-81471

regards, Jenzz

25
The Wurlitzer Electric Piano / Re: Stuck Hammer
« on: November 05, 2019, 10:07:42 AM »
Hi .-)

There is one of the crossbars between G and G# in the aluminum reedframe, so maybe the hammer is touching the crossbar?

Jenzz

26
The Wurlitzer Electric Piano / Re: Clavinet on top of wurly makes huge buzz
« on: November 03, 2019, 03:51:54 AM »
Hi .-)

Shielding the Clavinets PCB will not solve the problem. The main issue is that the 2 clavinet pickups are sitting above the Wulys transformer when in place. The magnetic field of the transformer will be picked up by the PUs, causing hum. A late D6 has a metal shield plate at the bottom where the pickups are, but in this case that will not help that much.

Try to experiment with different positions or distance of the clavinet on top. In the end, the only way to get totally rid of hum will be to place the transformer outside of the piano...

Jenzz


27
Hi + welcome ;-)

A VV Piano is a kind of 'alternative', but not a 1:1 Rhodes replacement. There are lots of small differences in materials, parts design etc. which make the VVs sound like an own kind of mechanical E-Piano (very Rhodes-like, indeed).

In fact, the 'bark' is some kind of mechanical generated distoriton (esp. in the low end), so an EQ or drive pedal will only give approximate results...

Jenzz

28
The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / Re: Pickup Rewinding Question...
« on: July 11, 2019, 06:09:12 AM »
Hi .-)

Yes, you should see roundabout 170 - 180 ohms...

Jenzz

29
The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / Re: Pickup Rewinding Question...
« on: July 11, 2019, 02:45:18 AM »
Hi .-)

You MUST solder the wire to the posts. The wire has a thin laquer coat (otherwise, the coil will be a complete 'short-circuit'), which you have to melt / tin before soldering.

Jenzz

30
The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / Re: Rhodes issue (with sound clip)
« on: June 28, 2019, 06:35:35 AM »
Hi .-)

This the typical sound of hardened grommets + and a slightly off-set striking line or too hard hammertip. Move the harp back and forth, there will be a point were the 'zing' will reduce to an acceptable level...

Jenzz

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