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Messages - dnarkosis

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The Wurlitzer Electric Piano / Re: Price of 200A When New?
« on: December 19, 2018, 10:00:38 AM »
FWIW back in 2006, I responded to a similar thread here about Rhodes prices:

On April 16, 1979 (still have the receipt), I bought a Suitcase 73 in Atlanta (with the silverface slider preamp):

$985.00 + $39.40 tax
$1024.40 total

David, do I understand your post correctly: you opened up the hole in the pedal shaft with a 3/16" bit and the 3/16" pin [singular] fit fine, i.e., it is a single pin rather than two? I just checked on mine again and would be surprised if I could even get the pin (or pins?) out without some significant effort. A hammer tap has no effect (though I admittedly did not tap hard), nor can I manipulate the pin with pliers. It is seated very tight indeed. - doug


The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / Re: Hi Res Rhodes Logo
« on: June 16, 2016, 08:50:55 PM »
These were the pdf images associated with an earlier post; I do not remember that the post-Fender version was ever offered. Sorry.

The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / Re: 2 keyboards above the Rhodes
« on: November 19, 2013, 06:29:53 PM »
I used some of what Ultimate Support used to call "Thinker Toys" to construct a second tier of the sort I think you're looking for; the "Thinker Toys" were basically just Ultimate Support parts that you chose to build whatever gear you needed; you could construct something as customized as you wanted as regards dimensions, amount of support needed (they also had double-thickness tubes etc.), and configuration. The following pictures are simply what I needed and built:

I also attach an Ultimate Support mic boom (not shown) onto the end that extends beyond the vertical tube.
With the knobs, I can loosen them, detach the top tier, fold the synth supports inward, and put that tier into a gig bag. The two vertical tubes slide down when not in use and make it possible to fold the keyboard stand normally.

To attach the two locking support collars on the stand legs that support the lowest horizontal tubes, I tapped holes into the legs and used screws, but only because the legs were too small in diameter to accommodate the normal Ultimate Support collars. I suspect the same will be necessary for the Rhodes Stage legs, but I may be wrong.

The whole rig is extremely lightweight, and I'm even using the double-thickness tubes (which, however, I didn't really need, but I didn't know that at the time).

In any event, this is just my rig; the dimensions etc. for a tier above another keyboard on the Rhodes will, of course, be different, as may the method of attaching the collars for the horizontal supports. I haven't really looked that closely at the Rhodes legs in a while.

I do not see the Thinker Toys on the Ultimate Support site now, so they may have been discontinued. When I originally did my own rig, I called them and had them walk me through what I needed -- at least at that time they were quite helpful, so that may be worth a try. Or some other manufacturer may have something similar.

Parts, Service, Maintenance & Repairs / Re: Fix for Cracked Harp Cover?
« on: October 01, 2013, 04:33:02 PM »
Thanks so much; duly noted.

Parts, Service, Maintenance & Repairs / Re: Fix for Cracked Harp Cover?
« on: October 01, 2013, 03:55:30 PM »
Thanks for the replies. This is a Mark 1 suitcase cover. But, yes, it irks me, too, that there is no definitive solution.

David: Thanks for the pictures. I thought about something similar but was a little unsure about getting clamps into position. In any case, do you happen to remember the brand or type of epoxy?

Parts, Service, Maintenance & Repairs / Fix for Cracked Harp Cover?
« on: September 30, 2013, 06:47:12 PM »
Not a large crack, about 6" long with a 1" spur (like the letter L), on top (horizontal part) of cover just over the Seventy Three logo. The crack "snaps" back into place smoothly, but any weight on the cover opens the crack again. I thought about some sort of industrial tape on the inside, but that seems a rather inelegant solution. Or is it? I'd be grateful for any suggestions about how to address this issue. My site search did not turn up anything, though I confess I did not search but about this first 100 hits or so. Lots on harp cover scratches, but not on cracks.

Parts, Service, Maintenance & Repairs / Re: Uneven dampers
« on: April 19, 2013, 03:13:52 PM »
Thanks for the comments, bjammerz.

Parts, Service, Maintenance & Repairs / Re: Uneven dampers
« on: April 13, 2013, 04:35:04 PM »

This post is quite old, and it's been a long time since I went through this setup myself (and remember, I was not the author of the post).

I am assuming step three is to ensure all the dampers will engage -- or be engaged by -- the sustain rail with equal force, making the collective movement of the damper arms at initial engagement more uniform. What the author of the post does not point out is that -- it seems -- there may be little need to relieve that pressure on some of the damper arms, so, again, the point is to make the arms engage uniformly (and optimally).

The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / Re: measures for mounting hardware
« on: August 01, 2012, 07:59:02 AM »
I use a very small sewing pin to search and gently prod until the tolex gives a little, then gently push it to see if it will pierce through into the hole; even if you miss the first (or even second etc.) time, the pin is so small there is no harm done.

FWIW I inherited my father's 1935 Martin hollow-body (because I still have the invoice, it's still under warranty; for real), which as a very small child I dinged a bit. Martin Guitars in Nazareth, PA, was not interested in getting the dings out and on two separate occasions vehemently discouraged me from having them or anyone else do it. But I think most of us get wanting to re-Tolex a Rhodes. The harp cover is a different story at least for me. Even a couple of deep scratches don't bother me that much after a couple of coats of protectant. Dlux's Krylon Fusion solution is the first I've really seen for scratches. Paint has always seemed iffy to me because the harp cover is so flexible.

Sorry; I misunderstood what you meant by texture; I see what you mean now, but I don't recall any threads on this particular problem.

A couple of coats of Armoral or STP Son of a Gun vinyl protectant will restore the gloss.


The original site was down for a while but is now back up with a different URL:

with a written disclaimer at the beginning of the intro video.

I may have missed some development or other along the way, but when I first read this thread I was going to link to Volvoxburger's YouTube channel - and now find it has disappeared. That channel would have addressed a lot of these requests, it seems.


Someone used Rhino Liner in the past and even had a picture, but I'm unsure where that thread is now.

Ozite (or a similar speaker carpet) is another possibility

Parts, Service, Maintenance & Repairs / How to cut Tolex
« on: July 22, 2010, 10:46:14 PM »
I use a rotary fabric cutter.

Paul Simon's soundtrack "One Trick Pony."

Parts, Service, Maintenance & Repairs / Preamp power supply pins
« on: June 06, 2010, 01:09:31 PM »
Many thanks; I was looking in the wrong places for the info.

Parts, Service, Maintenance & Repairs / Preamp power supply pins
« on: June 05, 2010, 03:47:09 PM »
On a Mark II Suitcase, blackface slider preamp:

Can someone tell me which pins power the preamp and the supply voltage (i.e., 12Vdc, 24Vac, etc.) that powers the preamp?  I am trying to check the preamp for no output, and the schematic does not seem to indicate the supply voltage.  Also, from the look of the schematic, the power for the preamp appears to be on pins 5 (+) and 1 (ground).  Is this correct?

The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / Rhodes in the studio
« on: February 14, 2010, 03:20:58 PM »
You only need to find one hole for each hinge to get the others (after you find the first one, use the hinge as a template to find the rest).

One way to find the first hinge hole after you have put the new tolex on is to use an extremely fine, small needle or pin to gently probe the area where the holes likely are. You will likely notice a "soft" spot where a hole is; push down gently on the pin; if you are over a hole, the pin will go through the tolex quickly. Even if you have missed the hole the first time, the pin hole will be so small (and will not have gone through the other side: the wood will stop it) that you will never notice it after the hinge is back on. It's not that hard to "guesstimate" once you start probing.

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