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Messages - pianotuner steveo

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How many front rail pins do you need?

You can use acoustic piano parts from Vandaking. Much easier and cheaper than trying to find originals. Original springs will be just as old as the ones you want to replace anyway.  Make sure you buy springs meant for spinet or console pianos. NOT full size upright springs. The Wurlitzer action is just a miniature acoustic piano action, (sort of) these parts are interchangeable. I think they only charge .14 cents per spring!

These spring are a pain to change. You really should remove the whip assembly from the piano first. Use wood glue to replace. Make sure you get all of the old spring out. They do sell a reamer but you probably do not need it. I would start with the few that are not working properly, don't just take all 64 out at once unless you really want to go that far. Needle nose pliers help remove the old springs. (Wrap the old spring around the pliers and lift out) Are you sure that the jacks just don't need protek on the center pins?

The rail pins come in 2 different sizes too, match up the closest possible. (I think it's the shorter one) If they are too  long the keys may stick. These are just pressed into holes, but a drop of glue may be needed if holes are oversized. Be sure not to mount crooked, they are oblong.

I really don't there is much of a weight difference. That came in with the plastic case on the Mark V

No, this is not inferior. Some differences, yes, but it says it is complete. It sounds like a good deal, but look inside, test it out. Everything is repairable, but test every key to be sure there are no dead pickups. I believe this will have the bump in the pedestals, making it easier to play than the earlier sluggish actions.

 Can't wait! Thanks for posting this, Alan!

For Sale / Re: Red Korg SV-1 73, very little use
« on: October 02, 2019, 06:50:22 AM »
I was going to send pictures in of this keyboard for Cormac to post, but after expecting a $1,700 car repair blll, my mechanic seems to have solved the problem with my engine for only $95! Long story, I won't bore you with the details. Just good to know there are still honest car mechanics out there.

If anyone does have any interest in this Korg, I still may sell it however. I haven't used it much since my musical partner died.

The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / Re: Very Low Output Problem
« on: October 02, 2019, 06:44:25 AM »
Save the old pickup(s). When you feel daring, they can be rewound with new wire, but it requires patience!

Pickups fail because the coil of wire opens up. I've seen it happen on Fender basses too. I don't know why this happens...Does anyone know why and can shed some light? It's not like they have high current running through them....

I've never seen this happen on any other guitar brand, but maybe it's just a coincidence.

The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / Re: Very Low Output Problem
« on: October 01, 2019, 07:26:34 AM »
Have you checked for a broken or poorly connected wire, such as the ground wire for the pickups? It has to be something simple like that due to it happening suddenly, and to all notes. Pickups can fail, but not all at once.

Other Keyboards & Software Synths / Re: Clavioline
« on: September 25, 2019, 03:53:23 PM »
All I know about them is the fun fact that the Beatles used one on "Baby You're a Rich Man"

The Wurlitzer Electric Piano / Re: Wurlitzer 700 Rear Panel Replacement
« on: September 24, 2019, 08:35:14 AM »
You're welcome. Please post pictures when you are done.

I never really thought of bark as being distortion. I've always thought it as being more like a quick attack, dynamic range induced sound which can be adjustable, but I wouldn't start turning screws in a new instrument unless it were necessary,

The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / Re: MK 1 Light Action vs Heavy Action?
« on: September 22, 2019, 06:42:17 AM »
I believe they improved the action (key pedestal) around 1978. Trust me, I have owned 3 early '70's and 1 later model. I would never want the older,sluggish action again personally.

The beer joke is actually pretty close to what the early action feels like- a piano that has been exposed to too much humidity.

The Wurlitzer Electric Piano / Re: Wurlitzer 700 Rear Panel Replacement
« on: September 16, 2019, 06:29:18 AM »
I might add a little speaker insulation too if I were making a replacement...just not near the amp.

For Sale / Red Korg SV-1 73, very little use
« on: September 14, 2019, 08:38:56 AM »
Hi guys, I am facing a sizable car repair bill, and need to sell some of my gear to pay for it.
I have a beautiful Korg SV-1 with only about 8 hours of use, and I am 90% sure I have the original box. (I will look for the box today)

The action has a decent piano feel to it, not a wimpy organ key feel.

This has great piano, Rhodes, Wurli,Hammond, and many other sounds, including a couple of  Mellotron sounds.(not flute, though)  One of my favorite features is the 12AX7A preamp tube- the Wurli sounds more like a 120 or 700 when this is turned on, or a 200A when it is off!

Reasonable offers will be accepted. I do not want to pay eBay fees, this will help keep the sale price down too. Pickup/ delivery available near Albany, NY, otherwise shipping will likely be $100-$125.

Asking $1,050, but ALL reasonable offers will be considered. Please let me know if you have any interest. I have no way to post pictures here. It is the Red model, there are no scratches or dings, or wear. Comes with manual, power supply, a sustain pedal, and I believe a music stand.

The Wurlitzer Electric Piano / Re: Wurlitzer 700 Rear Panel Replacement
« on: September 14, 2019, 08:28:14 AM »
Hi, the original panels did not have the coating on them for shielding. I believe they were made out of Masonite. I would use that or thin plywood if I were to make one. They did have oval cutouts just below the rear of the action shelf to use as handholds to help move it. I would recommend some vent holes near the amp for ventilation for the tubes. Other than that, nothing special is required.

The Wurlitzer Electric Piano / Re: Wurlitzer 700 help
« on: September 12, 2019, 06:14:07 AM »
I'm pretty sure that some were made without those wood spacers, I've seen a few without them.
It is possible that they are turned sideways like Doc mentioned, be sure that the long side is up/down.

The Wurlitzer Electric Piano / Re: Wurlitzer 700 help
« on: August 27, 2019, 08:23:38 AM »
Do The dampers drop down to the reed if you remove the corresponding keys?

You need to read the service manual and regulate the action in the order that the manual tells you- you may not just be able to regulate the dampers and be done with it. The capstans on the backs of the keys may not be set correctly. (possibly set too high)  The sustain pedal may not be adjusted properly. Things need to be checked in the right order, if one step is off, it can throw other things out of whack. A quick test would be to choose one key that has this issue, remove that key, and lower the capstan on the back to see if that helps.

Do the dampers lift higher if the sustain pedal is pushed down? Do they lift higher if you play the piano?

 If most or all of the dampers are having your issue, it is likely one step that adjusts all at once is incorrect, such as sustain pedal adjustment may be too tight.

Also, unrelated to this issue, Letoff is the most critical regulation step in a Wurlitzer- you can find the tool for that on EBay. No other tool fits this adjustment.

Do not turn the key dip screws under the front of the sharps unless you get to that step and determine they need adjustment.

I doubt it has to do with the rubber reed bar washers. Do not remove them and replace with something else, and don't mess around with the reed bar if the piano is plugged in. Shock hazard.

Also, unrelated to your problem, but be sure the " death cap" has been removed. This is the cap that goes between the AC power socket and the chassis ground. But that's another story...

The Wurlitzer Electric Piano / Re: Lacking Sustain in the high end
« on: August 06, 2019, 08:27:50 PM »
Maybe it's only true on the earlier models, but I am talking about the reed bar mounting bolts that go through the white plastic insulators.
On the early models, some were black rubber

The Wurlitzer Electric Piano / Re: Lacking Sustain in the high end
« on: July 31, 2019, 01:27:11 PM »
And also that the reed bar mounting screws are not over tightened... there should be a little play around those spacers, just a tiny bit.

The Wurlitzer Electric Piano / Re: Lacking Sustain in the high end
« on: July 23, 2019, 07:09:45 AM »
To a small degree this happens as the reeds get shorter, but if it is abnormal, you can try removing and cleaning a reed to see if that helps. Do not sand the reed, clean with a light oil. Especially around the mounting hole and the corresponding spot on the reed bar. Just do one and see how it sounds compared to its neighbors, before and after (record it first) be careful not to overtighten bolt when reinstalling, they are pretty easy to break.

Yeah, those deals don't happen anymore. I paid less than $100 for every Wurli I've ever owned except my 270. ( I've owned about 30 Wurlis total, most were flips)  2 were free. One was being left out for trash pickup. That was my last 120, and I wish that I kept that one, especially now that I understand the electronics a little better.

The Wurlitzer Electric Piano / Re: Reed plates
« on: July 13, 2019, 12:35:11 PM »
What model is it?

The Wurlitzer Electric Piano / Re: Reed plates
« on: July 13, 2019, 12:34:18 PM »
I believe they are to help with sustain. You may remove them for tuning, but you should put them back again.

The Wurlitzer Electric Piano / Re: Wurly 112 Opinons.
« on: July 11, 2019, 06:32:03 AM »
Any updates on this 112?

Contact cement is what we use to attach plastic keytops in all types of pianos. When applied correctly, allowing it to dry a bit before attaching the parts together, it will not fall off in normal use. The same goes for the logos.
Just remember, use mineral spirits, not acetone or other chemicals to remove excess.
Wurlitzer tops are ABS, not vinyl.

Interesting. I never knew about this, but I don't own any "non A" 200 series pianos at the moment.
I only briefly owned a regular 200, but it was a "flip"

I've heard this sound in many pianos, but don't remember the solution. It may be a voicing issue. What are the hammer tips like? Are they worn and hardened?

I don't think that is true about the stereo effect, but then again, maybe it was something they tried in 1968 only.  Anyone can add a cap to filter out some bass from the right speaker, but I don't think I would do that. An external stereo effect pedal would be better.

The Wurlitzer Electric Piano / Re: Noise in the amplifier.
« on: June 25, 2019, 03:59:30 PM »
That is awesome and cheaper than I expected.


Yes, but since the tight space dictates finding speakers that are very close in size to the originals, will it change the sound that much? (Other than volume difference if different impedance is used)

In other words, yes, if you could physically put 8" round speakers in place of the 4x8's, then the sound will change a lot. But if you are putting in different 4x8's, would it really change that much? I don't think so, because I remember doing this when those previously mentioned Radio Shack speakers were available, and they sounded fine.

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