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The Wurlitzer Electric Piano / Re: No audio output after hearing a loud pop?
« on: June 29, 2020, 06:12:26 PM »
Any luck with the fuses?
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Other Keyboards & Software Synths / Re: Rhodes, Wurli, Hammond - Software vs Hardware: Best for Studio Use 2020?
« on: June 26, 2020, 03:00:28 PM »
I'm not sure if you could simulate a Hammond well enough without drawbars, but I'm not familiar with any software based stuff. I have a stand alone Hammond (XK3) and I love it. I grew up with a real Hammond (L100) and I like my digital version more.
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The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / Re: Embrace my 79 Stage timbre, or start ripping things apart?
« on: June 25, 2020, 01:36:00 PM »
The neoprene tips last much longer than the felt. Felt may give you more of the sound you want, but the felt does wear much faster.
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The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / Re: Interesting Ebay Listing
« on: June 23, 2020, 12:32:39 PM »
I wonder how this all played out... the auction is over. Only $176 shipping for a suitcase? I don't think so.
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The Wurlitzer Electric Piano / Re: No audio output after hearing a loud pop?
« on: June 21, 2020, 10:58:40 AM »
Check the on board fuses
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The Wurlitzer Electric Piano / Re: Which Wurli model for most bark/harmonic complexity?
« on: June 20, 2020, 06:37:22 AM »
What models are you seeing at a reasonable price? (no, I'm not looking to buy any)
The Wurlitzer market has pretty much dried up in my area. (Albany, NY region)
The Wurlitzer market has pretty much dried up in my area. (Albany, NY region)
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The Wurlitzer Electric Piano / Re: Which Wurli model for most bark/harmonic complexity?
« on: June 20, 2020, 06:34:43 AM »
Don't get me wrong, the tube amp sound is great if they work well,but I personally would want a 140b or a 200 for a first model. I have owned about 30 Wurlitzers (most were flips) in the last 45 years.
My favorites were my 140B, and my 200, and my 270. I recently reluctantly sold my 200A, but I just wasn't using it much anymore and had very little work in April and May due to Covid.
Remember, the tube amp models prior to the 140 series have no AUX out and no vibrato. They also are more prone to hiss and hum, they get very hot, and a lot of them still have the "death cap" that needs to be removed. (A non essential capacitor that connected between the AC socket and ground- a shock hazardif when it shorts)
My favorites were my 140B, and my 200, and my 270. I recently reluctantly sold my 200A, but I just wasn't using it much anymore and had very little work in April and May due to Covid.
Remember, the tube amp models prior to the 140 series have no AUX out and no vibrato. They also are more prone to hiss and hum, they get very hot, and a lot of them still have the "death cap" that needs to be removed. (A non essential capacitor that connected between the AC socket and ground- a shock hazard
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The Wurlitzer Electric Piano / Re: Which Wurli model for most bark/harmonic complexity?
« on: June 19, 2020, 08:35:07 PM »
The early models have their own charm, but I believe that I said before they may be more desireable to collectors who own more than one model. You have to remember that the real early models are now 60-66 years old. The amps run very hot. My first Wurli was a model 700. A friend accidentally left it on all night and in the morning the power transformer had opened up and I had to get a new one. But that was more than 40 years ago, I don't know if anyone is currently making replacement parts such as the transformers for those models. I really think you are looking for an early '70's model 200. (Non A) When my band recorded with the model 700, we had to mic the speaker.
The sound is very different. Listen to songs by people like Ray Charles for the model 120 sound. Compare that with songs by Steely Dan and Supertramp who used 200's.
I partly became a tech because my model 700 was very high maintenance. It was barely playable when I got it and it was less than 20 years old then. Wurlitzers in general are kind of high maintenance. Soldering skills are a must.
The sound is very different. Listen to songs by people like Ray Charles for the model 120 sound. Compare that with songs by Steely Dan and Supertramp who used 200's.
I partly became a tech because my model 700 was very high maintenance. It was barely playable when I got it and it was less than 20 years old then. Wurlitzers in general are kind of high maintenance. Soldering skills are a must.
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The Wurlitzer Electric Piano / Re: Wurlitzer 112, harsh buzz in some of the lower notes
« on: June 17, 2020, 05:53:37 PM »
I would try to clean it more- a bright flashlight held under the reeds may help to see if something is shorting out a reed. Also- if you see any sparks on the noisy reeds, that means the reeds are crooked and shorting out on the side the sparks are on. Never file the sides of a reed or the pickup to increase the gap. This will drastically lower the volume and you can't reverse it if it is done.
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The Wurlitzer Electric Piano / Re: 145 and 140B vs 200A decision
« on: June 13, 2020, 02:59:13 PM »
BUY IT!
The 140 series action is the best action they ever made. Electronics can be fixed or replaced if need be.
"Bark" is partly a result of signal processing in studio situations.
The 140 series action is the best action they ever made. Electronics can be fixed or replaced if need be.
"Bark" is partly a result of signal processing in studio situations.
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The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / Re: Interesting Ebay Listing
« on: June 10, 2020, 03:20:19 PM »
I emailed him and he said it's NOT a piano bass...
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The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / Re: Interesting Ebay Listing
« on: June 10, 2020, 02:45:18 PM »
Lol! Plus, he has ZERO feedback.... sounds fishy...
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The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / Re: 1970 Suitcase 73
« on: June 10, 2020, 06:01:35 AM »
Is that Harold's signature? I'm having trouble reading it...if so, that is awesome!
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Other Keyboards & Software Synths / Re: Does anyone here own a Kawai CA79 or CA99?
« on: June 10, 2020, 05:55:03 AM »
Well, the Leslie simulator is just that, a simulator, but, it is fully adjustable, not just on or off. I was able to see a pdf of the service manual. I either read or heard somewhere that it had an actual rotating part but that info was wrong. Piano is on order, it will be at least a month more before I see it.
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The Wurlitzer Electric Piano / Re: Which Wurli model for most bark/harmonic complexity?
« on: June 10, 2020, 05:13:48 AM »
The 100 series models prior to the 140 have no vibrato. And no AUX out.
IMHO, the tonal differences have more to do with the electronics than the reeds in the 200 series, but yes, there are some tonal differences in early 200 vs later 200A models. It's all personal preference. It sounds to me like you want an earlier model.
IMHO, the tonal differences have more to do with the electronics than the reeds in the 200 series, but yes, there are some tonal differences in early 200 vs later 200A models. It's all personal preference. It sounds to me like you want an earlier model.
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The Wurlitzer Electric Piano / Re: 206A Vibrato and Aux out install
« on: June 09, 2020, 07:51:08 PM »
I'm not sure what you mean by what way the rubber grommets go- they have slits in the middle, there should be an equal amount of rubber on the inside as well as the outside. If someone replaced yours with a different type, the thick rubber needs to go on the outside. I put the washer on the screw, then through the music rack, into the rubber washer.
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The Wurlitzer Electric Piano / Re: Which Wurli model for most bark/harmonic complexity?
« on: June 09, 2020, 07:47:34 PM »
I believe the sound you are looking for is more in the 200 series pianos as you said. The 100/700 pianos do not have vibrato and sound a bit different.(Ray Charles) IMHO they are more for the collectors who have more than one. The actions are a bit clunky too. The 140/720 series are some of the best versions action wise, but the ones with the solid state amps sound a bit different than any other. I wish they continued the 140 action with the 200 series. The difference is minor, but they feel different, I think it's because the keys are slightly heavier. (Capstans mounted on keys)
Also, to some extent, processing the sound through different effects will help or hinder the sound you want.
Also, to some extent, processing the sound through different effects will help or hinder the sound you want.
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The Wurlitzer Electric Piano / Re: 206A Vibrato and Aux out install
« on: June 08, 2020, 05:39:36 AM »
The best thing for you to do is contact vintage vibe about your issue. It sounds like something is wired incorrectly.
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The Wurlitzer Electric Piano / Re: 206A Vibrato and Aux out install
« on: June 07, 2020, 06:05:36 PM »
Pm sent regarding the foot....
Sorry I can't help with the other issue.
Sorry I can't help with the other issue.
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Buying / Re: Kustom 88
« on: June 07, 2020, 12:15:10 PM »
Like, did you ever find one of these? I know someone that has one to sell...
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The Wurlitzer Electric Piano / Re: Newbie Questions!
« on: June 04, 2020, 06:24:31 AM »
No problem guys! James bought the tool from me. I don't have much work now because of the virus, so I have more time to be on here... it's hard to troubleshoot pianos and EPs on the internet and on the phone, but that picture James posted helped a lot.
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The Wurlitzer Electric Piano / Re: Newbie Questions!
« on: June 02, 2020, 05:50:24 AM »
Did someone add anything to the brown felt on the back of the key to make it thicker?
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The Wurlitzer Electric Piano / Re: Newbie Questions!
« on: June 02, 2020, 05:44:41 AM »
No, ADDING punchings (front pin, under green felt) shallows the dip. The punchings on the balance rail are for leveling keys mostly. (Key height) Dip will be affected by changing balance rail shims, but the keys should be all level. Those should only be added or subtracted for leveling. Mass leveling is by cardboard shims under the balance rail in the keybed. You usually don't need to touch those unless a previous owner messed with them. Altering the balance rail punchings is not the correct way to change the dip. Set height first, then dip. (You don't always need to change these, but that is the correct order in regulating steps)
Removing front punchings = deeper dip. Too much dip can cause this issue, and can cause hammers blocking against the reeds. You also may need to lower the Letoff capstan (turn towards the keyboard)
When turning the Letoff capstans, just turn a little at a time. It's very easy to turn too far then cause the opposite problem.
And yes, the part hitting is called either the whip or the whippen.
Removing front punchings = deeper dip. Too much dip can cause this issue, and can cause hammers blocking against the reeds. You also may need to lower the Letoff capstan (turn towards the keyboard)
When turning the Letoff capstans, just turn a little at a time. It's very easy to turn too far then cause the opposite problem.
And yes, the part hitting is called either the whip or the whippen.
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The Wurlitzer Electric Piano / Re: Where to start on this chopped 203
« on: June 01, 2020, 09:02:09 PM »
If you really don't know what you are doing, I recommend downloading the service manual and have a pro look at it. There are shock hazards inside a Wurlitzer. The reed bar is powered with about 150vdc for one thing. A common cause of distortion in these are the fuses that are soldered onto the board being blown, but it sounds like you have other issues too.
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The Wurlitzer Electric Piano / Re: Newbie Questions!
« on: June 01, 2020, 07:37:20 PM »
Try to shallow the dip on that key and see what that does....
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The Wurlitzer Electric Piano / Re: Wurlitzer clank Sound- F21
« on: June 01, 2020, 02:33:06 PM »
Wow, Fred, it worked. This is a real good tip to post here!
Thank you!
Thank you!
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The Wurlitzer Electric Piano / Re: Newbie Questions!
« on: June 01, 2020, 02:31:50 PM »In your original post you mentioned a hard knock sound. It could be the top of that damper hitting the upper hum shield, or if it is pressing down farther than other keys, it could be the front green felt punching is missing. I'm leaning towards the damper hitting.
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The Wurlitzer Electric Piano / Re: Newbie Questions!
« on: June 01, 2020, 07:04:33 AM »
On the keys that are not working properly:
1. Are they grouped together or are they random?
2. Is key dip the same as neighbors that work well?
3. Is key height (at rest) the same as the working neighbors?
4. Have you removed the keys and cleaned the keybed? (Number keys with a pencil first- the stamped numbers can be hard to read)
1. Are they grouped together or are they random?
2. Is key dip the same as neighbors that work well?
3. Is key height (at rest) the same as the working neighbors?
4. Have you removed the keys and cleaned the keybed? (Number keys with a pencil first- the stamped numbers can be hard to read)
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The Wurlitzer Electric Piano / Re: Wurlitzer clank Sound- F21
« on: May 31, 2020, 05:07:15 PM »
Thank you, Fred, I will check that.
But why does it almost always happen on this one key? I know sometimes it's the E next to it, or other keys, but I currently am hearing it on a 200A and a 206A on the same note, and have heard it in other pianos in the past on the same note.. Coincidence?
But why does it almost always happen on this one key? I know sometimes it's the E next to it, or other keys, but I currently am hearing it on a 200A and a 206A on the same note, and have heard it in other pianos in the past on the same note.. Coincidence?
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Other Keyboards & Software Synths / Re: Does anyone here own a Kawai CA79 or CA99?
« on: May 31, 2020, 06:17:32 AM »
The Wurli has been sold. I am trading in my acoustic piano and getting the Kawai CA99. My new Avatar is the CA99. Go to YouTube and check out Kawai CA99 videos. This thing is amazing. It has a small soundboard, and even a high end Leslie simulator with at least 1 rotating part... (I believe, I'm working on getting a service manual)
I am still downsizing my keyboards, if anyone is interested in the Korg SV1, let me know. I have no plans on selling my Hammond, but may be willing to sell my Gibson G101 (at the right price!)
I am also considering selling my Rhodes Mark 7 and Mark II suitcase bottom. I'm still debating that one.
I am still downsizing my keyboards, if anyone is interested in the Korg SV1, let me know. I have no plans on selling my Hammond, but may be willing to sell my Gibson G101 (at the right price!)
I am also considering selling my Rhodes Mark 7 and Mark II suitcase bottom. I'm still debating that one.