Messages

Alright, thanks for all the help guys.  I realized that the diagrams I was looking at were in fact from a park one.  The "damper bar lock screws" weren't a part of my piano.  I had it out of the exterior case, which was when it was not resting on the dampers.  With the dowel in the case it is fine.  Must have just not noticed it before I completely took it apart.

Also, I'll have pictures of my new Suitcase 54 piano up in the next few days hopefully.  Just have to finish up the bottom.

Hey all,

I just finished up cleaning out the entire piano and have been putting it back together.  I have fit the damper release bar back into the two holes on the aluminum sides (with the screw on the one side as it was when I removed it).  However, it now does not rest on top of the dampers lightly.  Instead, it flops down and hits the aluminum back.  As I said, I left the screw on the one side, however the tension doesn't seem right?  Am I missing something?  I'm sure it will function, but it continues to drop down and make a loud noise as the damper release bar hits the aluminum back frame.

Please help! 

It does sound great on guitar, and it's one of those non-flashy, just plain solid effects.  I'd assume it would be cool on a Rhodes.  I've used a MXR Micro Amp and Electro Harmonix LPB 2ube pedal in the past.  The 2ube is my favorite, as it is a full tube preamp that can run mono or stereo and give clean tube tones to overdrive.

Really great insight Sean.  All I know is that I've never seen a MK V advertised on eBay or somewhere where people knew what they had that went for less than 1000.  In fact, I'd say there have been plenty of MK I's in amazing condition that have just been passed on, while any MK V generates a great deal of interest.

hey people,

I've got a problem. I want to buy a few (3 or 4) Rhodes Pianos in Atlanta. But I need them in CO Springs.
Do you know a possibility, how to gather the pianos in one place and ship them together to CO Springs? Of course it shouldn't be too expensive.

The best of course would be, if a private person picks them up and drives them to CO Springs and I will pay for this service. But I can't find someone!

Thanks for any suggestion in advance.


Chris

A private person would be a lot.  I mean with something like that they'd have to have a large vehicle and likely some other reason to go from Atlanta to Colorado.  The charge for gas alone, plus the fact that they'd need to stop/eat/sleep, and they'd have to be paid would be high.

[edited for clarity]

I'm pretty sure we can answer the question here without breaking rules.

For my personal taste, there's nothing more desirable about a Mark V as compared to a Mark I, but I'd prefer it to a Mark II. Ironically, there are probably more differences between early and late Mark I pianos versus Mark II and late Mark I. But the improved action of the Mark V is the main selling point, with reduced weight probably coming in second. Maybe people just like the looks, they never appealed to me much.

Rarity makes them cost more today. (But that's not what the question referred to.)

Parts availability (or lack of) makes them somewhat less desirable.

Availability of new electromechanical pianos (from various makers ) is going to tend to set an upper boundary on the value of a Mark V. I'd suggest that maybe 80% of the cost of a comparable new e-piano is the practical upper limit on value for a Mark V.

That's just my opinion, let me know what you think.


_{edited for clarity}

This is my opinion as well.  I guess the price and desirability goes hand in hand with it being extremely limited and rare.  However, the look does not impress me at all and the sound seems to be no different than any other.  As far as sound--and even feel go--I've always thought that unless we're talking about wood vs. plastic all Rhodes can be set up to sound pretty great. 

I guess my interest is that it seems that many that are looking for them or interested in buying them don't outwardly state it is for the collectable value.  Rather, they cite it as being the "ultimate" Rhodes.  But does a few pounds off and a factory action that is better really warrant such praise?  Again, I can't imagine I personally would ever choose a 2000 dollar MK V over a Restored MK I for the same price.

Folks,
   just keep M7 out of the discussion as much as possible. Thats the rules.

Sorry, was away when a lot of the drama apparently went down.  Will definitely focus only on the MK V. 

I saw someone linked a Craigslist post to a Mark V complete with stand and pedal for almost 2000 dollars.  I'm just wondering now that the MK 7 keyboards are out, is there still a large desire of the "ultimate" light, perfected Rhodes that the Mark V was supposed to be?  Especially since there rarity seems to coincide with them being as much as a fully restored MK I or II, and in the same ballpark as a brand new Rhodes MK 7 keyboard.

Anyone care to discuss?

Hi,

I am looking for a back up Peterson power amp as well as some of the Fender 12" 32 ohm speakers. 

Let me know if you have them via PM.

Thanks!

Rather than trying to cut up a suitcdase bottom, why not build one from scratch.  It isn't that difficult.  You could used the factory bottom as a guide for the construction of your ""54" bottom and you could build it so both front and rear baffles were removeable.  I think you may have a problem getting 4 speakers in the shorter bottom with the power modules, but I would have to do some measuring to to see if it could be done.  All the hardware and parts from the factory bottom could be used.

If the depth (front to back) measurement is the same as factory I don't think you
would have a problem fitting four speakers in as long as front and back were in an X
pattern. I'm basing this on the face dimensions of a Rhodes satellite.

The real problem may be the speakers might be spaced too close together for the
science of sound reproduction. It might require wiring one pair in series and the
other pair parallel. I'm thinking along the lines of phase cancellation. I'm just basing
this on my extremely limited knowledge, so take it for what's it's worth. I would think
one speaker facing forward and one back should suffice.

Here's an idea. If you just use two speakers, one facing forward and one facing back.
Add a divider so you essentially have two cabinets in one. Make your baffle boards so
they are open to the rear of each speaker. That way the tremolo effect won't be lost
to either side.

Am I making sense?

 

Hi,

Thanks for the responses from everyone, and sorry for the delay I was in New Orleans all week hearing some amazing musicians play.  Again, I just purchased an original Fender Rhodes Suitcase bottom and have unwrapped it and everything today.  In doing some research, I do believe that the dimensions will be entirely adequate for fitting the four speakers inside.

I have also been in contact with a friend of mine that is somewhat familiar with speaker/amplifier construction and the acoustics of it.  He agrees that rather than simply chopping the baffles in the middle or something like that and then gluing them back to together, it would be best to have two new baffles made.  He also brought up the question about what compacting the cabinet would do to the production of sound.  He said he wasn't sure, so I likely won't find out about that until I find a place to get the new baffles made.  But yes, right now that is one of my biggest concerns as I am not extremely knowledgeable about the acoustics that go into placing and separating the speakers in a cab.

On a somewhat unrelated note, I will be tearing off the tolex tomorrow and hopefully getting it externally chopped to the right length.  I was wondering how the sides of the cabinet are attached.  I plan on chopping the side that doesn't have the amp since I think that would be easier.  However, I am just wondering how the sides are attached and what would be the best way to get the one side off and then get it back on as securely as it was originally.  Any info or advice on this?

Thanks again!

Rather than trying to cut up a suitcdase bottom, why not build one from scratch.  It isn't that difficult.  You could used the factory bottom as a guide for the construction of your ""54" bottom and you could build it so both front and rear baffles were removeable.  I think you may have a problem getting 4 speakers in the shorter bottom with the power modules, but I would have to do some measuring to to see if it could be done.  All the hardware and parts from the factory bottom could be used.

Well, I actually just purchased one.  And figured that parts would be not only expensive to get, but difficult.  I haven't seen many suitcase sustain pedal assemblies up on Ebay for example. 

http://www.mojotone.com/amp-parts/Tolex-and-Tweed/Gibson-Mesa-Style-Smooth-Black-Tolex-54W

I'm thinking about this now, I've seen it in person and it looks great.  Anyone know the amount that would be needed for a Rhodes 54, lid, and Suitcase chopped to the length of a 54 key?

So, I've pretty much torn down my entire Rhodes 54 and am awaiting delivery of an old Fender Rhodes Suitcase bottom.  I'm starting to think about exterior options and I honestly love the classic look of the tolex.  However, it made me think about other options that would be more durable and long-lasting.  This may be crazy, but for some reason my mind went right to Rhino Liners.  You know, the spray on truck bed liners.  Is this crazy to consider having this sprayed on the outside in lieu of Tolex, or is there anything that would make it not possible?

Thanks for indulging me.

That's great help about the baffles, I just won the suitcase bottom on Ebay so I'll likely see what condition they're in and if I mess up cutting it down I may have new ones made or try to make some myself.

I'm also wondering is the pedal mechanism different for a stage versus a suitcase?  I mean for a stage you have the push rod that you extend so that it's putting pressure on the mechanism in the piano, but I don't see anything sticking out of the Suitcase.

The cab I bought is a silverface with the 4-pin and two "External Outs".  So those can be used as inputs as well?  That would be great.

I have a set of 73 keys, however I would not necessarily say they are in good condition.  Basically, they'll need recapped.  However, the wood itself and everything else is in fine shape.  But the caps are not in the best of shape.

So I've been lurking quite a bit for the past year or so, the Rhodes work took somewhat of a detour based on other things.  However, after having to sell my pristine Fender Rhodes Stage 73, I have since acquired a Rhodes Stage 54.  So far I've been working on the basic stuff (hammer tips, felts, grommets, cleaning, etc.).  It was in pretty decent shape internally (some dust, but not much serious mold/oxidation or anything), so I'm starting to think big picture.  Namely I want to transform my Stage 54 into a Suitcase piano.

I'm bidding and trying to get a Fender Suitcase bottom to start working on chopping for the 54.  That's where a lot of my questions are, so please bear with me and any help is greatly appreciated.

1)  I've been seeing a lot of places that the suitcase sides are glued on and may be tricky to take apart.  Of course, this has always been in context of working on the front baffles (I believe) since they aren't removable apparently. So, for those with a suitcase piano that have worked on it or retolexed it, is this the case?

2)  I know that I'll obviously have to relocate the locations of the sustain pedal hole on top and move the pedal mechanism, would this be pretty straightforward?

3)  Also, in looking at pictures of the baffles, would it be an option to simply trim the sides and middle than "compress" it in?  Or, would I be better off getting new baffles made/doing it myself?

4)  Final question is for the original Fender Rhodes amps in the suitcases, they have stereo outputs for external speakers.  Could I convert this into a stereo input?  I plan on purchasing the VV Suitcase Pre-Amp Upgrade kit with the 4-Pin out, but I was wondering whether I could also convert the 1/4" Stereo Out into a Stereo In.

Any other thoughts would be greatly appreciated.  I'm also to the point of retolexing, so I'll have to check on info on that because I've never done that before.  Also, anyone looking for Rhodes logos, legs, pedal, rod, or others parts I have another 2 "work" pianos that I bought for parts.  However, I surprisingly haven't had to use many.

likely a cp-70 or cp-80...if it's upright than a cp-60.  Those were yamaha's electric grand piano that have real strings and everything with pickups.

To the above, I would strongly caution against tuning it yourself.  I had the same problem finding someone to tune mine, but found someone that was open to listen and said he'd tuned an 80 before (I have the CP-60M).  The reason I caution is not only is it complicated to hear the overtones (hence strobe tuners cost) and if you tighten a string too much, or the wrong way it will snap...and those have A LOT of tension that could cause serious harm.  Also, piano tuning tools are ridiculously expensive.

Also, let this be my introductory post that I'm thinking of selling my CP-60M.  I am losing space fast and while I love it more than some things it isn't "essential".  I'm looking to get 1250 dollars for it, which I believe is reasonable.  I believe this because a year ago I had it tuned AND regulated which cost about 300 dollars total and it now plays/sounds like a dream.  The power cord is not original, but works absolutely fine (not anything shoddy).  Also, all the CP-60's are M...meaning it does have MIDI.  It's located in Harrisburg, PA.

PM me for pics, further info, etc.

The Peterson has a 4pin connector. Whatever speaker configuration you use, you'll want 16 ohms resistance per power amp. The original Peterson cab used two 32 ohm speakers in parallel (per channel, which equals 16 ohms) so if one speaker blows out, the other is still powered providing a resistance (now 32 ohms) for the amp to drive. So, per amp, you could use two 8 ohm speakers in series to provide the 16 ohm resistance, but if one speaker blows, the amp will have no load (in series, both will cut out)  and as a consequence you will blow the fuse in the power supply section for that channel and possibly the power amp module as well...

That mostly makes sense.  I'm picking up the 54 on Friday without pedal or legs so I'm trying to get this in the works soon.

I basically am considering two options.
1) Twin Reverb- On my local craigslist there is a vintage Fender Twin Reverb silverface amp that has been rehoused in a "keyboard cab" and has 2 12" speakers and 2 10" speakers (this seems ideal).  It's around 400 and will need the reverb tank replaced and new tubes.  I'd also have to build a suitcase the depth of Rhodes suitcases (which I need to find out) and then the length of the 54 and fix 1 of each speaker in each direction.  Finally, I'd have to the internal suitcase sustain pedal and metal supports, which I would need to find and buy.
2) Buy a Peterson Amp or entire suitcase and chop it down-This assumes I can find just a suitcase bottom, then get an adapter to connect the stage 54 to a suitcase bottom.  The 54 does have an an active preamp added to it so I could run it passive or active.

I'm leaning to the first option, but would appreciate any advice.  Especially since I would need to find some vital parts (suitcase legs and internal pedal mechanism).

Thanks.

Hey guys,
Thanks for all the help.  I'm going to get the 54 I have lined up and make it into a suitcase.  Will a 50W late 60's Peterson work with this, I believe it doesn't have the 4 or 5 pin input that the MK I and II's had.  I'd like to get just the amp, metal supports, and internal pedal and build the cab and put in speakers.  Will this work?  I figure 2 12's and 2 10's inside.

So a 54 suitcase so I don't have to lug my Music Man 212 130-HD around to sit behind me.  I like the idea of the sound coming out somewhat like an upright acoustic.

Caleb

I would just get a 54 and chop it, but I'd like to avoid the wiring issues that would arise and the issue that when pickup dies they all die.

The pickups in the FiftyFour I had where wired in series/parallel just like any other Rhodes. Piano Basses, on the other hand, where wired in series so if one pickup goes, they all do in a PB.

Oh okay.  Other threads say that they are wired in some way that you have to jumper around the dead pickup or the whole harp dies.  I don't really know that much about electronics or the pickup aspect so I'm just going on that.

In terms of a chop, are there any major issues other than measuring and accuracy like the key pins.  Basically, anything other than cutting or gluing and putting stuff back together?  I'm between doing a chop, getting the whole celeste and a student for parts, or just getting a 54 I found without legs and pedal and building a suitcase bottom.

One more question, I saw in the archives about polyvoks 49 key Rhodes that turned out to be a special order bass.  Can anyone tell whether the one in the auction is a Celeste or special-order bass?  I also don't really know the range of this Celeste since the standard ones were the middle of the keyboard.

Caleb

Yes.  I'd have to do some work on that one as well.  But really, I don't mind the work, I just don't think for the condition it is in that it is worth 600 dollars.  I'm sure to someone it is, but for my budget of time/money/interest it doesn't do it.  I don't really care about having to take time to fix something up to an extent.

I'm not going to get into some argument with you over reasons why it is or isn't worth that.  I'm simply saying that I'm not interested in yours after seeing the condition for that price.  Just like I'm not interested in the sound of Clavs or the taste of cinnamon.  I would just get a 54 and chop it, but I'd like to avoid the wiring issues that would arise and the issue that when pickup dies they all die.  Again, don't know why I'm here justifying.

Dear Caleb,

I am amused and entertained by your obsession (dare I say fetish) for a smaller-than-73-key Rhodes.

That 49-key mess on ebay looks like it needs more than $1000 worth of work before you would be proud to have it in your dorm room or stand near it on stage.
Even if you did it all yourself, you would get pretty dejected with all the hours of work it would eat up, and the weeks and months you would have to wait to find parts.  

You would spend fewer hours and much less money if you bought a reasonable condition Stage 73 (for $500 or $700), and then spent a few weeks making arrangements to dismantle it and cut it down with a bandsaw.

You could probably find a woodshop on campus, and then get the shop manager to help you in your quest for a smaller Rhodes.

Are you still saving to buy Tom's 54?

Sean

Hey Sean,

That's actually exactly what I'm thinking about doing!  Basically, it derives from the fact that I already have a CP-60m and a few other keyboards that take up a lot of space.  I traded away my original 73 Stage Mark I for the CP and really miss the sound.  I simply did not care for the upper register at all, and really never used it.  The very bottom didn't get much use either.  So now, I miss the sound, but don't really have any desire or need for those areas and would like more space and to lighten it up.

Hence, my desire for a 54 key or smaller.  I was mostly intrigued by the 49-key celeste because I figure...what's five more keys and a project.  I do realize that it is a lottt, so I thought the chop route.  I was thinking about getting a 73 and taking it down to 49 and then buying the 49-key silver-top portion.  I justified this by thinking that this would avoid the pickup wiring...uniqueness...of the 54 and be small, yet reliable.  So, right now I'm just thinking of how one would go about removing the metal edges of the harp, rewiring pickups, etc. and deciding whether to get a stage to chop or a suitcase to chop the piano and amp.

Caleb

Hi all,
I know I have seen a thread (or more) about this before, but does anyone have any info on where this can be done?  Also, will it look exactly like a silver sparkle top or any recommendations?

Also, just for the sake of *ahem* interest, has anyone ever tried chopping a Rhodes down?  Those with knowledge about a 54's wiring, would it be possible to remove the upper five notes without killing the whole signal?

Thanks,
pianorocker

Thanks for the insight bjammerz.  I was looking at vintage vibe's site and the hammer set alone is like 500 dollars (maybe I could get only the 49 and lower cost) and I'm very worried about the state of the preamp.  It really is sad to see in such sad condition, but I for some reason can picture it in new condition.  

Also, if I get it and get the amp to work, does it need to be externally powered?  It obviously was made to go into a small amp to support it so I assume it would need this.  

Any other issues resulting from water damage that I should consider?  I figure I could get the keys to work and sand tines and everything down.  Would rust be an issue on the pickups too and could it be removed?  I'm just trying to tell what amount of parts I would need, especially since they aren't the typical rhodes parts.

Thanks!

Any advice??  I don't know what restoration would cost or whether it's even salvageable...any recommendations?

Hi all,
There is a well, destroyed 49 key celeste broken into 3 parts (for sale at least) on ebay.  I'm considering going for this and getting it restored by vintage vibe or someone.  My question is it is obviously beat to hell, rusted as though it has water damage, and missing bottom cabinet...among other issues.  I'm wondering if I am getting in over my head on this one and making sure no one else has one and needs parts.  I emailed the seller asking if I could buy it all, so I'm waiting to hear back.

Also, how much would a restoration of this nature cost?  Obviously we're looking at fixing/replacing rusty pickups, cleaning/replacing some rusted tines, working on key bed/hammers, using 60's piano wooden tear-drop hammers, electronics likely shot since it looks like it was fished out of the ocean, and obviously re-tolexing...

Yikes, I just am so tempted to have a small rhodes.  I can't help but think it could be beautiful.

Caleb

I want a 54 soooo bad.  Where did you find it for that price?  If you don't want it...I DO!!!



But seriously, why can't I find one for 450?

Caleb

Also, do you have the sustain pedal or rod?  Basically the one piano has nothing other than piano/cover and it's a 54 key so there aren't as many options.

Sorry for the double post folks.

I am definitely interested in the legs.  I don't know what you want in terms of trade, I have a korg eps-1, but that may be worth more than legs.  I could also pay for them, but I'm looking at two Rhodes and one doesn't have legs so I may need those.  PM me with what you're looking for in price/trades.

yep, I'm working out sorting out some funds.  Also, my friend has a bandmate that has one, but I have to trade him a lot of beloved gear that I'm not sure if I want to do...so I'm still weighing options.

What are the dimensions though?
And your's has the pedal, legs, etc. right?

Thanks,
Caleb

Hi all,

I'm looking at a 54 key Rhodes and wondering the dimension of the piano in terms of buying tolex.  If someone with one could measure it that would be really appreciated!  

Also those with them, do most use active preamps instaed of the passive one on the piano.

Thanks,
Caleb

could use the bass version as well.

Great news!  I am hoping to get another rhodes soon, and loved the quality and prices of Major Key.  Best wishes with the changes!

Can't wait for Major Key to return!

I've done all my Rhodes refurb work myself and I am generally happy with it.  

Is a clavinet pretty self serviceable also?

Never had one.  But from what I've read:

Rhodes: Definately easiest to understand and fix if parts are available
Clavinet: Strings are main issue, but if it isn't too bad condition should be ok.
Wurlitzer: Lots of electronics, must be gentle and good technical knowledge.

So I was looking on Vintage Vibe and saw this :
http://www.vintagevibe.com/p-480-sparkle-tolex.aspx

I'm pretty intrigued by it and am considering getting some for an amp and eventually the rhodes I'm putting funds together for (hopefully!).  I was wondering if anyone had any to say whether the pictures really show the true color.  Do you think they'd send me a tiny piece just to see the color...because 35 dollars a yard is a lottt to find out I don't like it.

Caleb

okay, well give me a few weeks.  could you email me pictures of the rhodes and everything...just in terms of condition and to tempt me more haha.  I'll PM you my email address.  

Thanks,
Caleb

i'd like to trade even up for a 73 (plays good, i don't care what it looks like)....or get $600  (what i paid)

okay.  I'm going to try to sell some stuff and get to 600.  Are you saying you'd sell it for that?  Before I sell some other keys and stuff I just want to make sure that you would sell it for that price.

Caleb

tommy any update or anything?  I just missed one on ebay and am looking one for december to take out and play for some shows maybe.

Have you had the experience of them being expensive or just hard to find.  I can't even find many on craigslist...which is saying something compared to most things I look for on there.

It went for 635.  I don't have that on a student musician budget...

I'm out.  I had 500 ready, but didn't even get a chance to throw that out there.  I guess the search continues.  That was so close to me too...darn.   :roll: It also looked to be more of a player than a collector's piece, but that and the pick up only didn't seem to regulate the price at all.

Hi Sean,

I hope it doesn't go up to 800...but I haven't seen a 54 on ebay lately so I don't really know their market value.  If it goes that high, I won't be getting this one either.  I figure it looks to be in fine working condition, but hardly the kind of condition collector's or people looking for a pretty rhodes are looking for.

I have a really secure loft-style room and am trying to get some gigging done with my roommates.  Any reason why you think it's going to go that high???  I really would like it, so I hope it doesn't.

Thanks,
Caleb

okay, thanks.  and do all 54's have plastic keys/hammers?  any other important things?

thanks

Thanks for the response!  Yeah, I remember old topics saying how they are more rare and limited, but the only real benefit is weight/size and weight is really not that great of an improvement.  I just want something more manageable and easy to handle.  I really miss my pristine 73 Mark I stage, but I want a player and this one looks like a good option maybe.

Don't you need a preamp or something with the 54's as well?  I'm new to there whole arena because when I bought my 73 and researched and all of that I always looked at the 54's as just something to complete a collection.

Thanks,
Caleb

sean, are you bidding?  I don't want to bid against you, but this would be great for my college dorm.  

also, bjammerz what do you think would be a good price?  when I bought my pristine, all original, babied 73 key mark one back 2 years ago I paid 750.  I don't have nearly that much now, and this is hardly in that condition, I just was wondering if you had any advice.

Thanks,
Caleb

Oh crud.  It is 36 miles from my house.

I would love to own it, however...  I got too many Rhodes in the house right now.

Since I sold my pride and joy 1973 stage 73 to a friend, I only have four more Rhodes pianos left.  

Oh... five days to think about it... five days.

Haha, yeah I traded my 1972 Stage 73 for a Yamaha cp-60m.  Love it, but I really want a rhodes to play out with.  I mean, I'm going to bid on it.  So I just want to make sure we're not bidding against eachother because that's ridiculous.  So, let me know.

Hey guys,

So I'm going to go for this rhodes 54 (mistitled suitcase) that's in baltimore which is really close to my location.  If anyone else is interested please contact me so that we don't bid against eachother.  I've been looking for the 54 ever since I lost my 73...so I hope this is it!

Thanks

I have the cp-60m upright with eq and midi it is great...I trade my rhodes for it  :oops: .  Now I want a rhodes 54 to take out.

pm.

Yeah, that's the problem.  I have a cp-60m upright electric...but that's not going anywhere.  I'd really like the 54 just because I need something relatively compact and the 73 is alittle too big.  I don't know what kind of price you are looking for...but maybe you could buy a 73 with the funds?

...I've just been looking for the 54 and saw that you said you maybe wanted something else so figured I'd ask.  I'm in central PA so NJ seemed not to be too far or anything, but as I said I don't have a rhodes to offer since I traded my 73 for the CP.  So basically, I'm very interested but don't have anything to trade haha.

Caleb