News:

Follow us on Twitter for important announcements and outage notices.

Main Menu
Menu

Show posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.

Show posts Menu

Messages - Marc-Etienne HUNEAU

#1
The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / 2nd strike quality
December 13, 2011, 05:09:30 PM
My two cents, but since you're striking a moving part, you have roughly a chance out of two to oppose its movement. In fact probably way more, but you got the idea. If the hammer reaches the tine at any other point than when it's upmost in its vibration, they will fight.

Long story short, second strike is never as good as first one. Almost.
#2
I read somewhere that the Rhodes crew was continuously tweaking and changing the tines. Some are straight and some ate a bit wider before the block, etc.
#3
ROHS only applies to new products.

People with old, dangerous electrical installations in their homes aren't required to have them made compliant with today's regulations, unless they want to change or fix them - in that case they have to meet new regulations.
#4
Quote from: michaeltristan on September 17, 2009, 09:24:00 PM
Rob! I did see what you mean about it "turning on" all of the sudden...  Could be an LED but not too sure..  A 12ax7 will light up and glow.  could just be some video editing.  Perhaps a still shot of it off, then running video of it "on"...

How about the damper let off simulation... is that going a step too far?  Maybe they should have a computer algorithm to make it go out of tune too! and maybe fill the bottom of it with lead so it weighs in at about 150 lbs.  AND maybe they could ship it without the pedal, make them really hard to get, and make people buy them off ebay!  Now THAT would be authentic!!

-michael

It is backlit indeed.
#5
There's a butterfly for sale in France, too.
#7
Brings back lots of fond memories ;-)
#8
Yes, I got the service manual, watched every tech video about the Wulri. I feel pretty comfortable that I'm gonna find my way through the rebuilding.

I'm more worried about the piano state. The seller is not on the same continent, and I can't have a look at it. Pictures show a heavily-worn (?) piano, but no sign of corrosion or rotting.
I'm gonna fire him a list of questions, to make sure no part is broken or visibly altered.

Also, before I start investigating, any shortcut for changing the voltage to 230V ? Drop replacement for the mains transformer ?
#9
Depends on the generation of the "photocell". LEDs ones are ICs (integrated circuits) with 4 to 8 pins, little insects with a black body and legs on both sides.
#10
Hey, I'm considering buying an old Wurlitzer 200 for rebuilding it. I've spent hours (days ?) on my rhodes, so I'm not a complete newcomer.

What would be the major pitfalls ?

What should I ask the seller (given he's no expert) ? What details should I check ?

I'm not too worried about the electronics : parts can be bought, even a complete amp. And I can handle an iron.

But the mechanics, the pickups... I know little about.
#11
Quote from: "funkin"thanks  :wink:
we should investigate the reasons of hi end sound.
its sad we still dont have precise chronology of all innovations..

Even if we did, we'd need a complete history for each of our pianos. My eyes told me that mine was serviced several times, and that parts may have been hijacked from other pianos. Or at least replaced.
#12
Quote from: "jeff da rhode"And I don't know of this is true or if it is just my imagination, but.....


I have had a few notes that I could not get a good volume out of and I noticed that they had a rough cut end.  I put them on the grinder just enough to flatten the end I think it improved the volume issue.

Makes sense, I guess : the pickup picks up magnetic stuff. Less metal, less stuff.

Now that I have a Dremel, I might do this to my tines. But then I'll have to re-tune and re-voice it... er...
#13
1) did you make sure you didn't swap some of the springs ? There are three kinds.

2) I kinda experienced the same thing. In fact, I think I now have a more even sustain across the keyboard, but some keys used to have more. Something to do with the old grommets, rock hard, thus doing something different to the sustain.

3) I remember some tonebar assemblies used to have two springs on one screw. When I asked, I was told this was a mod some techs would use to increase sustain.

4) re-aligning the tines with the pickups and re-voicing the piano did a lot good to the sustain, and of course to the sound. Now, I think my rhodes sounds great. Pity I'm such a bad piano player ;-)
#14
I remember that 5 or 10 of my tines suffered from that problem.

After trying to fix the problem for a while, I replaced the grommets (and I think the problem got worse, actually). But I had the perfect opportunity to get a good look at the faulty tines and noticed the tonebar assembly was not perfectly aligned. so I removed the tine, aligned the thing, re-tightened the assembly, and voilĂ .
#15
The dampers are too close to the tines so the sound is percussive ? You mean no sustain even if you keep the key down ?
#16
I might be wrong, but adjustment of the dampers is done by bending the metallic part to the correct position. Don't mess with the straps.

When I got my second Rhodes (stage/mark I)(the first one I only tuned and adjusted before sending it to his owner, so technically my second rodes is my first rhodes... anyway :), tuning and voicing was less efficient than on the first one. Then, I noticed the harp was higher than on the first one. I removed the "washers" (in fact plastic stuff I don't know the name of) and re-voiced the thing. Worse. Damn.

I finally had to follow the instructions in the manual, adjust the harp, drill two holes to hold it in the right position, and now it sounds great. Then I found the perfect strobe tuner with stretch tuning option for my mac, and... but that's another story I guess.

In a nutshell : take the manual, reset escapement by setting all the keyboard side screws to the nominal height, then voice the thing, and if you have dampers problems bend the stuff !!

Once again, I might be wrong. But I don't think I am.
#17
Preamps, Modifications & Upgrades / Dyno preamp copy
November 30, 2007, 08:15:59 AM
I'll go with that.
#18
Preamps, Modifications & Upgrades / Dyno preamp copy
November 03, 2007, 04:35:02 PM
I know it's been a long time since I originated this project... but I have tested my Dyno Preamp today.

It's good. I have to complete the assembly, put the PCB neatly into the box (I might put the preamp into the piano later if I can find concentric 10K pots), shield the thing and replace my quick and dirty wiring with shielded coax wire.... but my first tests are... pleasing to the ears !

Now, simple question for the electronics gurus here : how does it work ? I mean the fundamental/overtone part ?
#19
Parts, Service, Maintenance & Repairs / 2 Mounting Screws
November 01, 2007, 10:04:29 AM
http://www.vintagevibe.com/pc-381-32-rhodes-stage-case-screws.aspx

$3.

So as to save on freight, I got a complete grommet kit, and that's the best thing which happened to my Rhodes so far.
#20
Parts, Service, Maintenance & Repairs / 2 Mounting Screws
November 01, 2007, 04:30:49 AM
I was looking for these, got them off vintagevibe.

Thanks anyway !
#21
On the top of my head: you got a suitcase namerail with only the passive parts needed for a stage model used.

This is my guess.
#22
I did not notice any sustain difference in the first place, but now that I replaced the screws and grommets (with the new fashion screws and "cups") I have to re-voice the thing. Then I suppose I'll be able to compare sustains.
#23
So, is there a better way than putting two springs ?
#24
Regarding the tine's horizontal position : I'm undertaking the long painful process of replacing all the gromets on my Mark I.

And I noticed that maybe 5 or 10 of the 73 tines were pointing *not* to the pickup.

With the tonebar assembly unscrewed I had a good opportunity to check the reason. In fact, on these assemblies the tine and the tonebar are not aligned. By looking cloesly one can see the tine is not tightened at the right angle.

It's not easy to untighten and re-align the tine but it's worth the effort.

On a different matter, I noticed 5 tonebars got two springs on a single screw. And before you ask, the correct strenght springs.

Was there a reason ? Anyway it was the reason my gromets were squished on these bars. And for my pain !
#25
4080 means 40th week of 80.
#26
Found the needed screws at vintagevibe's.

Along with a complete grommet kit.

Just when I completed tuning and voicing... well...
#27
Hi,

I'm rebuilding a Mark I. Pretty good outsides, but the keyboard nevertheless seems to have had a rough life, given the shape of the screws I removed from it. I'm talking about the two large screws attaching the metal frame to the bottom part of the box.

The problem is : these are US screws. This screw thread is nowhere to be found this side of the ocean.

Where can I source these two ? Would a reader be kind enough to put two in the mail from me (I'l pay for everything including the sweat) ?

Or, do you know if vintagevibe or majorkeys will have them ? I'm considering getting a complete screw/Gromet kit from them.
#28
Found matching pot buttons ?
#29
Still no luck. I even went to my mum's house and scrutinized my old parts boxes, mainly pulled out of tvs and radios. At some point in my life, I used to de-solder dozens of components from each and every old TV I could find.


But no luck.
#30
I'm thinking about installing a dyno clone inside my MarkI.

But I'd need coax pots. 10k each.

Shuffled thru radiospares and conrad. No gem.
#31
A rhodes is heavy. But nothing you can't move by yourself using a board with wheels.

Don't store it in a damp place, and you'll enjoy it for years to come. A rhodes is and stays in tune, and unless you shake it very very hard (drop it ?) the adjustments are not likely to get loose.

I don't move mine,but I read everything I could on the subjetc :-)
#32
In fact, since I already have my dyno clone (have yet to build it), I'm especially interested in the phaser... The Dyno will be installed outside, I guess. In a stand alone box.

Maybe with your phaser board too. :-)
#33
Tell us more : what's the price ? :-)
#34
Well, great minds...

Great job, I like the box, and very nice playing and clips.

So, I don't think you answered : did you copy the preamp from the "german schematics" ?

I love your phaser, do you have a PCB/Layout ?

Damn, I think I'm getting more pleasure from tweaking the rhodes and getting that perfect sound than by actually playing it.
#35
Hi gang,

I'm not talking about a new version/copy, I'm talking about a PCB my brother-in-law designed from the by-hand schematics I found somewhere.

I don't remember who did this, but he's a techie who happened to have a Dyno-Rhodes in front of him and he copied the circuit.

Anyway, we have a first version of the PCB, I'm gonna build a prototype.

I'll keep this thread posted with the results.
#36
Equal temperament is the only way, the other ones are ancient things.

No, it does not stretch tune. I use it for the mid-range then tune the ends by ear.

Maybe I stretch tune by ear. Maybe as some say it's useless to strech-tune a rhodes.
#37
Well, not exactly THE collector's dream, because it's not a silver top nor any particularly rare thing.

Nevertheless, it's mint.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=180121261459&ru=http://search.ebay.com:80/180121261459_W0QQ_trksidZm37QQfromZR40QQfviZ1
#38
Okay, moving the pickups back from the bottommost to the midrange (about the C below the middle one, with a soft transition upward, from 1mm to 2mm did the trick.

I re-adjusted the tines positions to regain some volume and voilĂ .

Damn, now I have to practise my piano again ! :-)

Just wondering, anyone here tried Root Beer Rag (B. Joel) on a rhodes ?

It's more fun than velocity exercises, but I'm afraid it'll sound a bit muddy on the rhodes.
We'll see ! :-)
#39
"in the middle and upper ranges".

I guess my bass tines are too close to the pickups.

Thanks for pointing it to me.
lol.
#40
The question of tines/pickup distance rises a question I'm asking myself : I read several things about the Dyno-My-Piano process.

A page on this super site says : "This process involved moving the pickups as close to the tines as possible, along with adjusting the position of the tines to emphasize the overtones more than the fundamental."

And I read somewhere else the first thing was to set all the harp values exactly to their theorical factory setting, then fine tuning the thing.

I guess I should have followed the second track.

I'm getting another Mark I anytime now, so I'll have more time to practice.
#41
Mmmm... yeah, I guess it could be a pickup magnet problem, since it's a new issue.

I'll give it a try.

Anyway, I'm planning to put together a replica of the Dyno Preamp, then level won't be an issue.

My brother-in-law is gonna layout a PCB, I guess I'll make tons of money selling it here >-)
#42
Hey gang.

First of all, this website is *great*.

Now, I have a MKI, 1978, for one month or so.

I spent more time cleaning voicing it than playing, I guess. And now that I hav that mellow barking sound, I decided I'd give the tuning a try.

I mean, I had tuned 5 or 10 notes by ear, if these were clearly off. This time I took a tuner on the computer (Wintemper), and worked my way thru two or three octaves in the mid-range.

The thing is, when the amp headphone output is plugged into the PC, there's no way to ear, so it was "blind" (deaf !) tuning.

And now, I notice several notes sound sharp or flat depending on how hard I hit the keys.

- Are my tines too old ?
- Is the strinking line wrong ?
- Is the voicing involved ? I moved the pickups 1 or 2mm from the tines, and adjusted the overtone based on a suggestion I read here : the "bottom" of the tine is just above the pickup center. Then by ear of course.

This is not just a couple of keys in the bass range, it goes up to the midrange. So basically most chords sound wrong since the bass note is out of key.

HELP.
#43
Buying / Mark V, bad condition, on eBay
May 14, 2007, 11:32:52 AM
... of 73 broken pickups ?
#44
Buying / Mark V, bad condition, on eBay
May 13, 2007, 01:24:30 PM
http://cgi.ebay.fr/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=200109362949&ssPageName=ADME:B:SS:FR:1


This piano would probably have caught my attention if I hadn't got my mark I already.

Well, in fact it did : what do you think ?
It looks like it needs heavy work, but mark V are hard to get.
#45
Sorry, can't help.

But if you do design a PCB, make sure you post it on this forum :-)
#46
I'd say : stick with the sound !

One of the greatest Rhodes players in France, Patrick Muller, has a stage 73 Mark I model which looks like crap.

But the sound... oh my !!

In fact, I just brought two MK I's,one for me and one for a friend, from ebay.

I have had the first one for two weeks now, and even if the tolex is not in good shape, and one of the hinges worn... it plays great. I've read everywhere that rhodes action can be very bad... well, I rather like this one.

So, my original plan was to keep the 2nd one, as it's cosmetically in better shape. But my guess is now that I'll tune and voice the two things and decide only then.
#47
Buying / Rhodes MK I / II in Europe
April 18, 2007, 01:18:21 PM
*I* may be interested. Shipping to france mandatory.