Messages

Post some pictures you guys!  I keep seeing them on Craigslist.

P.S The BX3 stand was made by myself and a friend to made him look like a real B3,

/e drools

I heard the old ones have a more "dirty" sound than the new ones.  True/False?

Dang it!

I'll be interested to see what this one goes for.  I contacted someone about one w/ missing legs, sustain pedal, and cover.  He wanted at least $1500 for it.  

Those treble tonebars look pretty bad... but I'm sure people on here have seen worse.  You could probably try to remove as much corrosion as possible and then get them re-plated.  If you search around the archives a bit you can find info on places that will do this (other then Speakeasy... which is pricey!)

Anyway, if you can get it for under $1000, it's probably a great deal.  Otherwise, you can wait for your "I have know idea how much this is worth seller."  I know some people on here have found them for mere hundreds.  Good luck.

I saw this on Chick Corea's website.  I thought you guys might find it interesting.

QUESTION #1 (submitted on-line):
Cody Campbell from Kentucky asks: "I wanted to ask you what kind of effects you used on your electric piano for those shows (Miles). I like the sound of a Rhodes and want to get one, but I want to find out how to get that distorted tone that I hear on fusion records. I don't know whether it is a feature on the Rhodes itself, or if it's some separate box or module."

CHICK'S ANSWER (#1):
Dear Cody,

Thanks for writing in.

When I was with Miles during those live shows and also in the recording studio, I had a different rented Rhodes each night so the sounds I got were very random and of the moment. I had to work with what was presented to me by the rental company. There were a few pieces of effects gear that I would carry with me sometimes. One of them was a box called an "Echoplex". It was basically a little tape recorder that the signal passed through with an adjustable record head that enabled me to wiggle it while the sound was going through and get all manner of weird effects.

I also used an old ring modulator made, I think, by Oberheim. But the distorted sound of the Rhodes you refer to was achieved by having bad sounding amps and no knowledge of how to use amplifiers or electric instruments. It was all new and unfamiliar. This is true but not a recommended way to achieve the result causatively of course. I know there are ways to achieve distortion by overdriving the amplifiers in the way that guitarists do it. But I'm no authority on this. I'm sure any self respecting distortion creating guitarist can show you how to do this with preamps and amps.

The viewpoint about making that music that way at that time though was: you take anything and make music out of it. Good luck with your music creation. Have lots of fun.

Chick

Sure would be nice to have one to move my Hammond A100 around. That thing almost killed me and two other guys trying to carry it up the stairs in my house, and we had the Roll 'R' Carry dollies. I'd hate to imagine trying to just dead lift it down....

Oh don't say that!  I was considering purchasing an A-100 from someone.  AND that was my concern!

Wow, just get the Track-O.  You could move your Rhodes and any other common household items you have sitting around...  Pepsi Machine, massive concrete blocks... plus it rolls right over those troublesome quarry rocks.

Start working out more! j/k  :-p

Have you played the Nord?  I know you said you were leaning towards the Rhodes but you might want to check it out anyway.  I had one but I despised the light action of it.  Maybe you won't though!

I guess loading and unloading is the toughest part.  Like everyone else says... get a good dolly OR some friendly roadies.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z95pQ7f-iJQ

enjoy!

gimmy!

Has anyone seen the new Key-B duos from DLQ??  All I know is the clips on the Diversi site are awesome.  I think they already distribute them in Italy and will soon be distributing in America.

The American distributor is diversiorgan.com

Pretty Sweeeeeeeeet

Wow, thanks for this.  I love his MiniMoog demo.  Neat!

Thanks Kitchen.  I'm afraid to turn the pins.  You see, the previous owner had done a lot of careless maintenance (including repairing a guide pin with a nail).  He unfortunately used a key bushing tightener heavily through ownership.  This means that after installing new bushings the keys barely fit back on.  My solution has been to...

1) Use the Phillips screwdriver trick lightly
2) Carefully shave off small layers of the new bushing felt once installed.

I could buy new thinner felt... but this works for now.

Make me one!?

Congrats and welcome!  MkII is a great model purchase.  I prefer it to my MK I.  But that's like comparing two great works of art I guess... See ya around!

Well, I tried a couple things that seem to be working.  I'm doing a couple more test keys before I go all out.

1) VintageVibe said to cut the pieces in to 1/2 inch strips.  This makes them WAY to big.  The new ones I cut were more like 1/4.  I used the old bushings as the standard to measure by... yes, I should have done this in the first place.

2) I tried to apply as thin a layer as possible this time.

Seems to be working on the one key I did.  It has a definite improvement in side to side stability.  More soon!

I may have to try that.  

What is so weird is that I got the kit from Vintagevibe.  So the bushing felt should be the right size.  I'm just surprised I'm having to make so many adjustments.

Got any sound clips for me??? :-)

XB-2 and XK-2 seem like really good affordable options!

I have "test" replaced a couple troublesome worn bushings on my keyboard.  I soaked the old bushing with Acetone and removed it.  Then I cut out what excess I could with an x-acto knife.  Then waited for it to dry and replaced it with new bushing felt by gluing and using clamps from vintagevibe.com.

When I replaced the keys they would barely move and still when pressed.  I tried using the phillip screw driver trick to loosen them up... but I think I almost broke through the wood.  

I re-clamped them and am going to let them sit overnight.  I'm thinking about trying some slide-all in the bushing holes tomorrow.

Help?

Wow, that thing was in great condition too.  Might even be worth more...

Hm, I personally don't like walking bass on the Rhodes. Maybe my bass tines aren't the best out there, but also sound-wise I prefer short slap-like bass lines.

That got me thinking about this awesome site I found.  These exercises taught me everything I need to know about basslines.

//http://www.henkhaverhoek.nl/exercises.html

You people and your B-3's... I'm so envious :-(

grrrrrrrrr

So here's my thought.  Since I just sold 2 keyboards (bye bye Nord Electro), I am thinking of getting a Hammond XK-3.

Only problem with buying a single manual organ is how to run bass lines and comp effectively.  In my experience, there is just not enough room to solo, comp, and walk effectively w/ 61 keys.  Yes, even with the "split" function.

So here's my idea.  How about about taking the Hammond (or any organ keyboard) and resting it atop the Rhodes.  Then you could use the Rhodes for comping and walking (or vice versa... if you're so inclined) ?

I guess the two main problems would be...
1) The significant height difference between the two boards.  It seems like the right hand would get tired from the position very quickly.
2) You completely lose the percussion sound that makes organ bass lines so effective.  But, I guess losing the "traditional" sound is the point.

Too bad I didn't try this out when I had the Nord.  Any thoughts mates?  Or experience/suggestions w/ organ keyboards?

Thanks!

Heya.

The felts inside two small holes on the keys are known as Key Bushings.  These felts help reduce friction when the key is pressed.  They are guided in to place by a Front and Back (or Balance Rail) Guide Pin.

Here are the service manual diagrams.  http://www.fenderrhodes.org/rhodes/manual/ch2.html

VintageVibe.com has a kit to replace the key bushings.  It has worked well for me.  The only extra stuff you need for the kit is a Naphtha based solvent and Elmer's Wood Glue.

I think the silicon spray you are referring to is for these procedures: http://www.fenderrhodes.org/service/action.php
The procedure is primarily used on the Key Pedestal Felts (the felt that rests on the part of the key which raises the hammer mechanism when you press down a key... figure 2-27)  But, I think it can also be used on the bushings.

Any of those (spray or powder) would help you speed up/smooth out your action.  However, if there is significant clunky/side-to-side motion in your keys you will probably need to replace the bushings first.

Hope this helps!

Fun! I just added you on MySpace.

Awwww, that stinks.  I guess I'd pay 1.2k for a restored Rhodes but thanks to the magic of Craigslist, I haven't had to.  I paid $225 for my MKI and $250 for my MKII.  Both of course came w/o sustain pedals...  I guess 80's musicians evolved beyond the need for sustain :-)

all I can say is... it's worth the WEIGHT!  There's something about playing on a real Rhodes that just makes you play better.  It's like playing on the best stage piano around (ala. Yamaha S90) then playing on an amazing grand (ala Bosendorfer).  Screw portability!

Double post!  Well, I found this and it helps.  Any suggestions on where to get one?

http://ep-forum.com/smf/index.php?topic=518

I bought the Electro 2 61 key last year as an "all powerful solution" to my gigging needs.  Here are some of my thoughts.

On the Rhodes Samples:  These I thought would be the least realistic of all... but I actually liked them the most.  The E. Piano 1 & 2 sounds were both very effective.  I was shocked at how close the sound was when comparing it side by side to my real Mark I.  The sample gives a nice amount of "bark" and the key sensitivity responds quite well.  That being said, the action is way way way too light.  There is just no comparing the wooden (or even MKII plastic) keys with the Nord.  It's basically like playing a mediocre Hammond B-3 copy that uses Rhodes samples...  which makes sense considering the keyboard is geared towards organ players.

Hammond:

Pros:  6 vibrator options, plenty of percussion customization, user set drawbar settings, you can use the Piano effects w/ the Organ sample (flanger, overdrive, ring mod, etc.)  Great touch sensitivity and customization options.

Cons:  It's a good simulation of the Hammond B-3... but that's the problem, it's just "good."  It didn't really blow with any of the features.  The draw bars are very ackward to adjust while playing.  The keys, while responsive, still feel way to light and plasticy.  

Clavi:

Pros:  Lots of adjustibilty options w/ frequency settings.  Great touch sensitivity.

Cons:  I didn't really use this setting often.  However, I remember not being wowed by the sample.  Like the Hammond, it is just good.  Nothing more, nothing less.

Wurli:

Pros:  Very solid sample.  Probably as effective as the Rhodes simulation.

Cons: I hate to beat a dead horse but... it just feels "good" once again.  It's really nothing special.

Overall:

I don't really buy in to the whole analog is better then digital debate.  The Nord's sounds are great, but are they worth the $1300 or more price tag.  I don't think so.  My best suggestion is to try it before you buy it!  It seems like other posters like Spookyman quite enjoyed it.  As for me, I sold it and now have the extra cash for a new rhodes or two... or three... or a Qudrapuss!

Just one last side note... this is all in reference to the Electro not the Stage.  I've actually heard much better things about the Stage but I thought it would be nice to throw in some Electro info.

Is there a way to use the effects w/o having the suitcase amp?  I just picked up a MKII Suitcase today w/o an amp (got a great deal!)  Anyway, I really feel like I'd be missing out if I couldn't use the tremolo and equalizer effects through a different amp.  Do they make XLR to 1/4 plugs?  And if they did would it work?

Either way, here's some pictures just for the heck of it!

http://s23.photobucket.com/albums/b362/geetay/?action=view&current=IMG_0526.jpg

http://s23.photobucket.com/albums/b362/geetay/?action=view&current=IMG_0525.jpg

Thanks!

The tone bar clips don't look like they were standard.  I think the previous owner added them to increase sustain on trouble notes.  If they are standard then maybe I should pick some up.

Thanks for all the advice guys!

Not to be picky... but where the heck can I find these elusive front or back guide pins???

Well it should. It's freaking loud!  I found out what the previous owner put in the notches.  It was double sided tape used to hang posters/pictures/etc.  I also just noticed he put weight's on a couple of the tonebars, to increase sustain I guess.  I'll probably just remove those too...

So Vintagevibe.com is the place to buy from, eh? or MajorKey?

Sorry I posted so many questions!  I realized I actually do need to replace one back guide pin.  The previous owner replaced it with a nail  :roll:   Where do I find these things.

When I replace the rail felts will it significantly affect the action?  Like, will I have do a lot of adjustments on key height?  I read the manual and it listed specific heights and such.  

Now you've got me scared to take apart the harp!  Maybe if I just remove each section (grommets, screws, then tonebar, spring, and tine) one by one I won't get as frazzled...  Thanks for the WD40 tip, it works great.  I think I'm going to still use some metal polish or anti-corrosion solution on the springs and screws.  Because you can never go wrong with shiny :-)

I accidentally originally posted I needed new hammers.  I actually meant I needed hammer tips.  The tips are grooved severely on many of the keys.  Some so much that the key sticks into the rubber.  You think it's a bad idea to go ahead and get a kit w/ all 73 tips for future repairs?  I also kind of have a feeling that once I replace one I'll want to replace them all...

I don't think I was referring to the key pedestal felt.  But maybe...  In figure 2-1 of the Rhodes Service Manual, go directly down from #15 or the hammer.  The little notch where the bottom of the hammer rests is what I meant.  Is there supposed to be felt there for the hammer to rest on???

Once again, long post... but that's what you guys live for right?  Thanks!

Hopefully these will help.  Notice the nail, yes a freaking nail, he replaced the back guide pin with.  Grrr...

http://s23.photobucket.com/albums/b362/geetay/?action=view&current=IMG_0450-1.jpg
- Hammers have basic wear... a couple of the dampers are slightly bent... damper felts are severely worn

http://s23.photobucket.com/albums/b362/geetay/?action=view&current=IMG_0455.jpg

http://s23.photobucket.com/albums/b362/geetay/?action=view&current=IMG_0457.jpg
- medium-light corrosion
- discoloration of tone-bars?

I had a missing back guide pin when I first bought my Rhodes... but I found it when I disassembled the piano.  Anyway, for future reference, is there any place that sells them?  I couldn't find any information on where to get one.

Second, I'm planning on making a big order of replacement parts soon, but there are a couple of things I'm not sure if I need...

1) New Front Rail Felts (NEED)
2) Balance Rail Felts (NEED)
3) Damper Felts (Really NEED)
4) A couple replacement hammers

and here's where it gets fuzzy

5) Tone Bar Springs
- Would it be crazy to simply clean these in one of those un-corroding solutions you can buy at hardware stores?  I was thinking of doing the same thing with all the hardware on the case as well.  

6) Tone Bar Grommet kit ($77!?!?!? are you crazy)
- the shininess of new metal intrigues me.  But will it really help my sound?  My hardware has what I would call normal wear and corrosion. (I'll post a pic once I figure out how)
- also, is there ANY real difference between what this kit provides and what I could buy at Home Depot for 1/2 the price?

7)  ?
- The part where the hammer action rests in the notch of the keybed is bare.  Basically, when I release the key the hammer slams back down on to the key and there is a loud "clunk" noise.  The previous owner did a pretty s**** repair job on this by using felt poster hangers.  Only a few were left in tact when I picked it up... anyway, is there anything I can do to remedy this?

Thanks guys! I look forward to ranting about my assembly problems soon :-)

Teej