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Messages - jeff da rhode

#2
Dear forum moderator,

I believe our sire has been taken over by international conspirators speaking in code to one another.
#4
My classic 30 was only 1x10
#5
The Peavey classic 30 can't do the low end at all.  

I thought that was all I was really missing, but once I put through the 4x10 cabinet with the right power the whole instrument came alive.


Now I just need stereo and a phaser:)
#6
As with all Rhodes parts these differ from year to year.

My late 74 has a difference from this.  The smooth diagonal shown here from front to back is not smooth on mine.  Rather it flattens out about 2 inches from the front.
#7
The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / new to Rhodes
August 18, 2009, 10:03:58 PM
darryll is right.

I have had 2, one from 73 and one from 74/75 and they sounded/felt totally different.  Not better or worse....just different.  Each one really does have some personality.

My advice, assuming you live near a populated area, is to keep the price around 800 or less.
#9
Search for the "dyno" case mod.  Essentially cut the hard case top in 1/2 just behind the keys.  Leaves a nice hard top you can use.

I did this for one, but actually just built a new top rather that cut one.

There are pics on this forum somewhere.
#11
Michael's career  was probably overrated.  I mean good grief he is considered the "King" and really only had 2-3 solo albums worth buying.  But that said he was an amazing talent and I don't see how anyone can deny what a monumental album Thriller was.  Opinions are just that, and opinions about tastes and talent are the least valuable of any type.  But for my 2 cents Michael was an incredible gift to the world and it is sad what he and the world did to himself what they did.

I will personally miss John Lennon more.  Oh who am I kidding I miss Ronny Van Zant more (hey I'm a poor boy from the south), but Michael is missed and I hope his tattered soul can find rest now that it did not find here.

I think I'll go and try to work out Billy Jean on the Rhodes.
#12
You mention wanting a "compressed" sound.  This head has a "boost" knob that seems to be compression.  When I crank that up a bit I get really really sharp punch from the mid to lower range.
#13
I know this isn't the least bit vintage but it works great.

I've been playing through a peavey claccic 30 tweed guitar amp.  Wonderful amp for a guitar but crapola for a rhodes.  Hey sue me...its all I had.

After a couple of craig's list trades I ended up with a galien kruger backline 600 bass amp head and a 4x10 cabinet.  I'm amazed at what this did for the sound.  The bottom end is scary it is so thumpin and the top end is better also.  Several keys that I was never able to get good volume out of suddenly just sound fine.
#15
I'll certainly give this ago at some point.

Right now I'm all bent on Long Tall Sally and I generally obsess over only one song at a time.
#16
By all means.....post it.
#17
Queen  You're My Best Friend
#18
PICTURES NOW!
#19
While doing a grommet replacement I used a rag and WD-40 to give each tine a good wipe down.  

It's safe, cleaned off surface rust and such and leave a mild oil coating behind to protect them.
#20
Yeah sorry in the still pic shown at the 1:51 mark.
#21
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=13DbMrp910g&feature=related


At 1:51 what is he playing?  It is a Rhodes?
#22
You can do it on a $800 budget I think assuming 2 things.

1) You already have an amp

2) You be patient and wait to find one on Craig's list for around $500-$600 that you can drive to pickup.

This will leave you $200 to fix up what ever needs it.  I've got 2 and have less than a $1000 in each.
#23
I had the same issue and just built one.

Pretty easy IF you have the tools.
#24
The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / re-tolex
November 30, 2008, 01:14:14 PM
I used the stuff from http://www.mojomusicalsupply.com/ and was very happy.

Don't know if they ship international.
#25
I don't think that is it, I tried to move the pickups with my fingers and they are quite tight.

Very odd.
#26
I sat down to play one day this week and notices one of my tines it too close to its pickup...odd but oh well.  Then I sat down again tonight and noticed another doing the same thing.

Now I did have some of them pretty close trying to get decent volume.

I haven't move the piano.

Any thoughts of this?

I was wondering if perhaps the winter air all dry and hot in the house actually caused the wood the shift enough to do this?
#27
what a tune, like it more each time
#28
Wow what caused that?  It looks burnt.

Did you accidently feed power back through the pickups?
#29
The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / 1970 Suitcase
October 29, 2008, 09:04:27 PM
I've been a bit unsatisified getting a good volumn/tone that works well for both the bass and the mid/upper.

When the mids seem right the bass is too soft and when the bass is right the mids are just way too loud.

I've wondered about splitting the output to put the bass on its own channel with seperate volumn/amp.

Is this something that others do/have done or would I just be jumping to really odd/bad soltions to the problem?
#30
And just for the record, these cheek blocks did have a second screw in the front which can not be removed until after the key bed is pulled out.

Humorously once the key bed was out I didn;t need to remove the cheek blocks:)
#31
Yeah I didn't realize how the entire action assembly slid out together.  Without question you could not Tolex with that in there.

The fact that it is all one piece makes me feel a bit better.  I was thinking that the keys and the hammers were on separate bases and I was concerned about getting them lines back up.

It is all sanded and bondo is drying now.

Thanks for the help
#32
Well I found this post:
http://ep-forum.com/smf/index.php?topic=3564&highlight=cheek+removal

So the key bed is out....a bit nervous....but it is out.
#33
I built a new case top for a Rhodes which no longer had one.  Put on new Tolex and am very happy with it......now for the piano itself.

I'm trying to dismantle the piano enough to do the re-tolex job.  The first sticking point is I can't figure out how to get the cheek blocks off.  I see only the one screw in the back top....but it seems to have something else holding it at the front.  Any suggestions?

Also it looks like the tolex on the front inside of the case actually slides in behind the key bed.  I had really hoped to not have to remove the key bed.  How hard is it to get the action all lined back up after such a dismantle?  I've never had it this far apart before and fear being able to get it back together.
#34
Other Keyboards & Software Synths / clavinet cost
October 21, 2008, 05:01:43 PM
I've done all my Rhodes refurb work myself and I am generally happy with it.  

Is a clavinet pretty self serviceable also?
#35
Other Keyboards & Software Synths / clavinet cost
October 20, 2008, 03:55:47 PM
Watching ebay/craigslist it seems that a clavinet will cost you about twice what a rhodes will.

Why?

Are they truly more costly pieces of equipment?  
Were that just fewer made and thus fewer on the market?
#36
Buying / Bidding on the other Silvertop
October 14, 2008, 12:09:04 PM
I'm sure this will sound completely ignorant but....

Is there any thing special about a silver top besides the top being silver?
#37
Parts, Service, Maintenance & Repairs / Tolex patterns?
October 10, 2008, 09:42:33 PM
One on my Rhodes has no case top.  I plan to build one and then Tolex it and re-Tolex the case bottom.

Pretty much everywhere I read says to use the old Tolex as a pattern.....but I don't have old Tolex in this case.

Any suggestions?
#38
I didn't use the chart for mine.  Those I replaced had an existing tine on each side, so I simply measured each of those and cut the new one half way in between.
#39
So 2 have 2 88s.  A 1975 which is essentially complete and restored.  And a 1973 which is playable (fairly well actually) but it has no accessories,  No legs, no sustain pedal, no hard top, the volumn/tone knobs are busted.

My wife has nothing against the pianos....but she hates me using so much wall space.  I thought long and hard and I'm not going ot get rid of her...so now what to do.

I HATE the thought of parting out a 1973 with all its nice wooden internals.  But I doubt I can get all that much out of it in its current state.  I'd need $600 just to break even..

Heck I don't even know what my question to you guys is.  Guess just some thoughts/advice.

I could try and sell it?
I could part it out, keeping about 1/2 the tines as my back up supply.
Any one interested in buying half the tines as a lot?
I could build a new case top so that it would store better and get if off her wall.

Certainlly I'm not the first to fret over keeping vs selling.  Does it just take counciling:)
#40
Is ak_attack right?  Is the bass that same as the botton 2ish octaves of the 88?  Or is it actually lower?
#41
Are the tines for a Piano Bass the same as a 73 or 88?
#42
I've got 2 88s and its the same story.

One from 1973 that I can play without an amp and hear it fine and one from 1975 that is almost silent without an amp.
#43
I thought that after I got my rhodes tuned up I'd put the cover back on. But it is basically in good working order now and I still don't.  It just seems that I'm constantly tweaking one note or another.  Moving a pick up here, tune a note there, just the normal stuff.

It's not a problem really but I'm starting to worry about it always being open and collecting dust.

I assume I'm not alone here, most rhodes onwers keep theirs open in "tweak mode"?  yes/no?

Is the dust concern valid?
#44
And I don't know of this is true or if it is just my imagination, but.....


I have had a few notes that I could not get a good volume out of and I noticed that they had a rough cut end.  I put them on the grinder just enough to flatten the end I think it improved the volume issue.
#45
Ahhh the bench grinder.....yes yes the bench grinder.


But be careful on the angle..... if you accidentally point the tine toward the rotation it can give you a nasty result.


Not that I had a tine thrown back at me....just theoretical:)
#46
Peavey Classic 30 Tweed
#47
Wow.  I think I'm both frightened and intrigued by the database of serial number to feature mappings you must have.
#48
I doubt this will directly help as you will see my problem was self induced and silly.

But my issue was similar in that full chords played loud caused the issue to show itself more than other things.

http://ep-forum.com/smf/index.php?topic=4325
#49
Is the vintage vibe deal the best suggestion or are there cheaper/better ways to get a new set of tone/volume knobs?

http://www.vintagevibe.com/p-244-passive-electronics-for-stage-rhodes.aspx
#50
This one is plactic hammers and metal supports.
Serial: 50074
Blue date: 2975


I also have a 1973 Fender Rhodes which is hybrid wooden/plastic hammers and wooden supports.

I had intended one to be parts for the other but most of the parts do not interchange.