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Messages - Ghost Horses

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1
The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / Re: Zinc Plating On Tone Bars
« on: January 30, 2018, 02:48:27 AM »
Ohhh hardly!  ;D

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The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / Re: Zinc Plating On Tone Bars
« on: January 29, 2018, 09:43:31 PM »
Great advise, thank you Real MC! So as I said before, I don’t mind the bare metal/gun metal color. With that said, what options would I have for a clear coat or metal protector to keep them from oxidizing in the future?

At this point I could have ordered a set from VV and installed them. Seems I’m a glutten for punishment!  ;D ;D  ;D

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The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / Re: Zinc Plating On Tone Bars
« on: January 29, 2018, 06:10:18 AM »
K

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The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / Re: Zinc Plating On Tone Bars
« on: January 29, 2018, 05:59:46 AM »
I found a good metal plater in the UK who is about 20 miles away from me (but with the time I have free he might as well be on the other side of the country) so I post my stuff over to them.

If you contact the plater through their email most of the time they'll do it for a better rate as it's additional business (especially if paying say by bank transfer or cash.) One quoted me £70 for the Peterson preamp enclosure if it needed an invoice, without it was £20.

So really it doesn't matter if there isn't one nearby but from the sounds of your restoration chroming or zinc plating with a yellow passivate will be the only way that you'll be happy at the end.

Good point! Maybe I need to broaden my search and just mail them to someone. Hadn’t really thought of that, thanks for the advise!

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The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / Re: Zinc Plating On Tone Bars
« on: January 29, 2018, 05:54:24 AM »
Just a thought... could you chrome the tone bars? that wouldn't add too much mass and would look pretty amazing.
Personally though I would just leave them as they are.
As it stands now they are down to bare metal, a gun metal color. They don’t look bad at all and imo they look better than the zinc. I may clear coat them and call it a day. Still not sure.

I do agree that chrome would look great! That’s pretty much what the gentleman that I contacted does. Similar appearance. Talk to him last night and he said he charges $75 per sqft. I may do it and see what happens.

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The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / Re: Zinc Plating On Tone Bars
« on: January 28, 2018, 05:01:25 PM »
I can’t seem to find a plater in my area who does zinc. Here lies the conundrum...

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The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / Re: Zinc Plating On Tone Bars
« on: January 28, 2018, 04:17:41 PM »
That’s a valid point. The thing is... with me, I know they’re under the cover. I’d rather know they look sharp and the whole restoration was done right from top to bottom, inside and out. I love the Rhodes beautiful sound, I also have an equal admiration and love for all of the parts that make the piano as a whole. I’d like to showcase each part in its best light on the rare occasion that I pop the hood. Piece of mind I guess or maybe OCD. Lol

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The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / Re: Zinc Plating On Tone Bars
« on: January 27, 2018, 07:20:37 PM »
Yeah, my thoughts also. I’m not really concerned with them no longer looking like the original (yellow zinc chromate) tone bars. In fact, I’d rather have a chrome or nickel looking finish. I just don’t want to hinder the tone in any way.

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The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / Zinc Plating On Tone Bars
« on: January 27, 2018, 06:10:44 PM »
I am in the process of cleaning some really oxicidized tone bars and I have a couple of questions:

1. In cleaning most of the tone bars, I am in turn removing the original zinc plating. What options (besides plating) do I have to keep them from oxidizing again?

2. Luckily, I have found a plater who does a electroless silver plating. Will this process work or would it hinder the sound?

He explained the following to me in an email:
“What I do is a three stage process that is very thin. It consist of a clear base then silver and then a DTM clear is applied on top to prevent tarnish. It will look like shiny silver metal like your example pretty much forever since the oxygen is locked out. So no oxidation.”

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

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The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / Re: How to remove stuck tine?
« on: January 25, 2018, 08:03:06 PM »
Hysterical.

If the screw head strips off, or if you don't have a vise handy, a decently long adjustable wrench can be fit over the tine block (because it's square), and a big pair of crescent tongue and groove pliers to grip onto the tonebar (with a towel etc. to prevent marring the finish).  You basically twist the tine block and tonebar against each other to loosen the screw.

This is exactly what I have been doing and it works really well! A cloth over the tine block is critical.

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The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / Re: Remove corrosion on metal parts?
« on: January 25, 2018, 06:26:48 PM »
Looks great!!!

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The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / Re: Remove corrosion on metal parts?
« on: January 25, 2018, 12:30:00 AM »
In asking around here and reading around other sites, a lot of people suggest Scotch Brite scouring pads. They really work well on tone bars. They are slightly abrasive though, but nothing like sand paper by all means. Currently cleaning up mine and personally swear by them!

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The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / Re: Help Dating My Rhodes Suitcase
« on: January 24, 2018, 11:19:32 PM »
Here’s the first of a few other questions that i have. So for one, the keybed looks odd and looks like it may have been retro fitted into the case. Not all of the screw holes line up accurately and some holes look as though they were done by the previous owner.  I think the keybed may have come from a Stage and was retro fitted into a Suitcase model’s case. The U cutout (that my pen is pointing to) gives me the impression that this is where the sustain rod comes up though the case on a stage model. It was defiantly notched out for a purpose, otherwise why would it have been done? Again, in my situation it looks retro fitted into another model’s case. I can’t seem to find any picture online to confirm this. Do any stage owners here agree or am I wrong?



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The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / Re: Tone bar & Pick Up Rail Varnish
« on: January 24, 2018, 05:12:30 PM »
Great info. Think I’ll make a trip to Lowe’s tonight and I’ll post some pics of my results. Thanks!!!

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The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / Re: Help Dating My Rhodes Suitcase
« on: January 24, 2018, 04:51:27 PM »
Good way of looking at it.

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The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / Re: Help Dating My Rhodes Suitcase
« on: January 23, 2018, 11:52:59 PM »
Yeah, I have a Peterson 4 pin. The whole thing has thrown up red flags. I even have an early model #1 aluminum square tone bar thrown in for good measure! :D The key’s stamp numbers are all out of wack/not numerically correct also. I’ll have to get some advise on the damper rail as well. Something just doesn’t seem right, it’s a weird fit.

This defiantly changes things as far as what I spend to get it back up and running. I hate to dump a lot of money into it if it’s not period correct/the original piano. I swear I think it’s at least 2-3 different years morfed into on FrankenRhodes!

I’ll take some pictures of some of the issues and questions that I have. Thank SO much for your help!!!

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The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / Re: Help Dating My Rhodes Suitcase
« on: January 23, 2018, 11:19:39 PM »
Yeah, I have a Peterson 4 pin. The whole thing has thrown up red flags.. I even have an early model #73 aluminum square tone bar thrown in for good measure! :D The key’s stamp numbers are all out of wack/not numerically correct also. I’ll have to get some advise on the damper rail. Something just doesn’t seem right there also. It’s a weird fit.

This defiantly changes things as far as what I spend to get it back up and running. I hate to dump a lot of money into it if it’s not period correct/the original piano. I swear I think it’s at least 2-3 different years morfed into on FrankenRhodes!

I’ll take some pictures of some of the issues and questions that I have. Thank SO much for your help!!!

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The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / Re: Help Dating My Rhodes Suitcase
« on: January 23, 2018, 09:48:06 PM »
It does have a round top. The name rail is a Fender Rhodes plate. The harp support is all wood however.

For some reason I thought suitcase models had something indicated on the Amp section of the gold sticker?

Also when did they introduce Janus?

Probably just me, but as I begin to put this thing back together and look at others like mine online, I’ve ran into a few weird things that give me the impression that my Rhodes may have been pieced together from a few different models. I’ll post some pics later so maybe I can get some insight. Sorry to be such a green horn.

On a side note, I am so glad this sight is around! It is a huge resource of helpful folks and information! It has help me with a number of issues that I otherwise would have been lost on!

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The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / Re: Help Dating My Rhodes Suitcase
« on: January 23, 2018, 06:14:19 PM »
Sorry if I’m being thick here, but I ran across 2847-2 located on the keybed frame.

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The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / Re: Tone bar & Pick Up Rail Varnish
« on: January 23, 2018, 01:10:26 PM »
Exactly, whatever it is it’s not thick at all and I’d rather know for sure before experimenting. Thinking it’s something like tung oil, but figured someone here may know for sure...

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The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / Re: Help Dating My Rhodes Suitcase
« on: January 23, 2018, 08:30:56 AM »
Thank you so much Alan!

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The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / Tone bar & Pick Up Rail Varnish
« on: January 23, 2018, 08:28:42 AM »
Odd question, but I am currently restoring a rhodes and both the tone bar rail and pick up rail were pretty dirty and stained. I’ve cleaned up both, but in doing so I’ve removed some of the original varnish. I’d like to protect the wood again, so I was wonder what they may have used to protect the wood? I’d like to keep that original look that they had.  Any help would be great!

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The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / Help Dating My Rhodes Suitcase
« on: January 22, 2018, 12:56:58 AM »
Any help on dating my Rhodes Suitcase? The gold sticker looks as though it was ripped off and put back on which is odd, but the black ink above the sticker reads: 3071. The gold sticker reads: Ser- 50833 Mod- FR 7054 Amp- (blank). The stamp on the top right reads: 110254-TBJ

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Anyone?

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Yeah, my camera wouldn't focus when I tried a close up. Not the best picture indeed. Ok, the a ceramic disc capacitor has the following markings:

20%
.00
ZSF (or maybe) 25F

I've heard the word Scematics used a lot on here. Sorry. It's above my head. Any way of explaining w/o getting into great detail or maybe a link to help explain how to read/understand one?

So after putting in a replacement fuse cap I tried to fire it up. Nothing happened. That's when I noticed the ceramic disc capacitor had came loose. Would this prevent it from fire up?  

THANKS for the help!!!

26
Parts, Service, Maintenance & Repairs / Frame Mounting Screws
« on: February 28, 2009, 07:30:53 AM »
So I am placing an order at McMaster and thought while I was at it, I'd order some other stuff. I was wondering if anyone new the specs for the screws that affixes the entire frame of a Rhodes piano to the case itself? I have a suitcase. Was it different from year to year or did they stay the same?

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Does anyone know what this is and where I could get a new one? A wire has come off of it.



The wire that came off is pictured below:


When I pulled the two pieces (face & box) of the power supply apart to look inside I noticed that when I pulled them apart I also pulled something else apart by mistake.


I also added a picture to help anyone idenify the model. Any idea what year this may be?

Thanks for any light shed on the matter!

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Parts, Service, Maintenance & Repairs / Fuse question...
« on: February 24, 2009, 09:30:40 PM »
Good deal! Thanks!

OK dumb question # 2! I do not have a power cord. Can I hook up a plain old extension cord to see if  the power supply box powers up? Shouldn't the red light come on?

29
Parts, Service, Maintenance & Repairs / Fuse question...
« on: February 23, 2009, 04:22:58 PM »
Hmm...only I would have this problem. I bought:

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062230

and noticed it was 10 AMP. I see on my Rhodes it says 2 AMP Slow Blow. So this might sound like a dumb question, but will a 10 AMP cap work as a replacement for the old original cap that I lost? (I'm only using the cap keep in mind) It doesn't seem to fit right either...

...or should I get:

http://www.shop.hottubparts.com/product.sc;jsessionid=E2872A9BC7E5460046C7598B9E16509B.qscstrfrnt03?categoryId=21&productId=275

When it comes to this stuff I'm like a box of rocks I tell ya!

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Parts, Service, Maintenance & Repairs / Bridle Strap Nightmare
« on: January 16, 2009, 04:13:17 PM »
Quote from: "alenhoff"
Quote from: "Ghost Horses"
Quote from: "alenhoff"
One more tip:

I seem to recall that there may be  more excess strap length then you can stuff into the slot (using a small blade screwdriver gently, so you don't break anything).  If so, just snip off the excess length after the strap has been stuffed into the slot.

Yeah after reading this post I experimented with my old straps. I used an eye glasses screw driver to force the bridal strap out. Then I used the same screw driver to push it back in. Wasn't hard, you just have to be gentle.


Perfect!  Now, think about this:  You can buy them for $8.95 for 100 -- and even save the shipping if you have a local piano supply shop. I've seen one of the vintage keys places selling them for $2 apiece (and they probably get them wholesale for $4-$5/100).  Nice margin!

Oh yeah, I know what ya mean!!! Have you seen the prices the Fender supply/part places charge for screws and washers?

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