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im on the fence about a re-cap TG.

my C2 is not uneven, and the 3 notes that warble are so quiet its something i could live with.

ive only heard 2 recap TG. both sounded great. one was an A-100, the other was a model A.

i was reading about TGs last night. i found that if an organ hasnt been played in awhile, a pickup can magnetize a tone wheel. this will cause a tone, along with the original tone. it will sound twice as fast as the tone wheel spins.
the tone wheel will demagnetize after its been played for a while.

sounds rare, but the organ hasnt been played in a while. maybe thats whats going on.

the more i think about it, im not buying the solid state amp deal. i think it could be bad capacitors. they do dry out over time. at 57 years old it wouldnt surprise me.

ive had a vintage amp, and a mutron pedal both make a motor boat sound. problem was filter caps.

each tone wheel has a cap. probably whats going on.

my bud just had his A-100 re-capped by goff. the organ sounds awesome, but $500 and something bucks doesnt.

yeah, low and high volume.

with the tone gen. tightened down or floating it makes the noise.

i didnt think about the vibrato. ill have to see if it sounds like V1-3, or C1-3. maybe theres something weird between the vibrato/chorus to those notes. i think its unlikely but maybe.

i run a solid state leslie. a friend of my was over the other day. he hear it, and said his old 760 made a very similar noise on just a few notes like mine. when he upgraded to a 145 the warble went away. maybe its those freq. messing with the leslie somehow.

ill have to borrow a trek preamp.

as far as maintaining the organ. i do oil it. and there is writing in the back from the previous owner, i assume, of dates it was oiled.

this organ seems mint. no real cabinet damage. guts look good. still has the preset stickers. looks like its been well cared for over the years.

i guess the organ is almost 60 years old. could be time to just bit the bullet and bring it to goff. let them give it a once over. they are only about 45min from me.

thanks for the input!!!

i have a hammond C2. it has trek II percussion.

problem is ive noticed i have three note the warble. sounds like having water in your mouth and gargling very quietly. if i pull out the draw bars one at a time. i only here it on the first three.

the note are the same on both manuals, making me think it has something to do the the tone generator.

low C, the C two octaves up from low c, and the A, two ocatves above the lowest a.

the organ is pretty mint. still has the preset stickers, and paper work in the bench.

what is the problem? is my C2 going to die? should i not be playing it till i have it looked at? is it fine to leave it since it doesnt bother me?

i think it all depends on what you want.

like kineticturtle said, anything with wooden keys.

mark II's with wooden keys are nice. if you like really light action they are great. the pickups on the other hand are not very reliable. the copper winding is real susceptible to oxidizing, and breaking due to moisture.  

i had a mark II for about 6 years. i replaced 28 pickup by the time i sold it a few weeks ago. the day i sold it, a pickup broke. as cool as the mark II was, im happy not to have $400+ in pickups left to break hanging around.

a mark I might have stiffer action, but i think they are somewhat more reliable.

i like early fender rhodes mark I's. i have a 1973. it has the older pickups, and tines. it has a really warm tone. i dont mind the stiffer action.  

any two rhodes dont play or sound exactly the same anyway. if you find one you like my advice is do not change a thing unless you have to.

thats just my opinion though. others might feel different.

ive been thinking about doing this to my 1973 rhodes. its nice to read your comments, and see your pictures. thanks!

so im kinda freakin out...a little. im selling my mark II, the guys on his way driving up from NYC, and a pickup just died!!!

the copper winding wire broke, but it still had a little magnetic pull. not like the pickups next to it though.

i pulled it out and tried to unwind once and re solder it back. thought i got it, but i didnt. once i put it back in, the pickups on either side, one to the left, and two to the right stopped working. then i really freaked out.

i pulled it back out. then connected the wires from the pickups on either side of the empty spot where the dead pickup was. then everybody worked again. (other then the one that was really dead).

this ever happen to anyone else, and why did it happen. the pickups on either side going dead i mean.

in any case. its the B, below middle C. i feel bad that it broke, but nothing i can do. thats whats up with old gear. i guess ill just have the guy pay me $10-$20 less then i was asking. i think thats far.

some of the late model B2's have the smooth drawbars. i think post 1954. not sure about the C2's  though.

thanks for the heads up bjammerz!!!

the pins are set right. but it is missing the center screw. its not broken off so ill try to find one. if not i think i can make something up that will work. thanks for the help!!!

i just started to notice something weird going on. when i use the sustain pedal on my 1973 mark I some of the notes in the mid range arent sustaining right. if i press the pedal to the floor the dampers move away from the tines, but a few not far enough though. from there, if i release the pedal just a hair they move further away from the tines and sustain right. since this only happens in the mid range i assume the rod is flexing, and pushing the damper release bar too far up in the middle letting the dampers stay close to the tines. then when i take pressure off, it comes down enough to push them away. how can i solve this. new damper bar? maybe find i stainless rod that spans the whole damper release bar instead of the two small pins?

anybody ever have this problem?

rhodes mark II

badge: black ink stamp

harp production: 0181

TBJ: 017249

harp end: 0511

there is another number next to the lowest tone bar: 4480

standard gold pitch and number tone bars

white tape pickups

full plastic hammers

hammer tips: standard neoprene

logo: rhodes logo

namerail: mark II aluminum rail w. black center strip

faceplate: mark II faceplate w. white boarder

knobs: black w. silver center, white arrow

harp cover: flat top mark II

harp support blocks: aluminum

keys: wood

keycaps: later 2-piece

pedal: missing

case lid: stright slope

latches: later clamp latches 1 one each side

case hinges: later 6 screw doulbe lip, 2 on rear

leg compartent: straps with snaps

sustain bar: Endpins held in by 2 Phillips screws

dampeners: grouped metal

front key pin felts: green runningboard felt strips

i

feel like my mark II is all original.

ill post about my early 70's fender rhodes in the next few days.