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Messages - David Aubke

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1
The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / Re: custom miracle mod amazing !!
« on: July 29, 2020, 08:16:47 AM »
These measurements were taken from a VV bump


Here's a SketchUp model I made.
MiracleModBump.skp

2
I can offer these before-and-after images of a 1974 I worked on.


Looks like six screws. Three across the front and three across the back.

3
The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / Re: Mk1 Case Lid
« on: October 10, 2017, 11:23:00 AM »
The cabinet sides are connected to each other with lap joints which are glued. The top is glued and stapled to the sides.
Here is an exploded view of a cabinet bottom that hopefully illustrates this.


I've modeled several cabinet parts in SketcUp.
http://www.shadetreekeys.com/ShopChart/items.php?description_filter=cabinet&models=1
Here's a 1973 Mark I cabinet top
http://www.shadetreekeys.com/32766/Models/UpperSplitSideCabinetHalf32766.skp

4
The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / Re: Strobe tuners
« on: August 28, 2017, 02:25:17 PM »
Thanks. Sounds like you got a heck of a deal there.

5
The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / Re: Strobe tuners
« on: August 28, 2017, 11:48:43 AM »
Congratulations.

How does it handle the extreme treble and bass notes? That's where most tuners I've tried start to lose track, especially on the last treble octave.

6
Incredible find.  I've seen pictures of an unknown piano player with Harold at a showcase in Europe, and they were at this grand piano shell Rhodes.  It's not exactly similar (didn't have red knobs in the photo) but it's the same "Don Pallas" cabinet maker.  Could be the same piano?  Highly unique and definitely factory

Ohhh. I saw "Chickering" but forgot this was an old thread. I'm no expert on acoustic pianos but I did think it looked strange for a baby grand.

7
How did they make a Seventy Three fill the width of the keybed? I guess the cheek blocks look a little fatter than normal, maybe that's all it took.

I wish they'd taken a picture of it closed up.

8
So getting a new 'case screw' wouldn't do the job?

The "case screw" is the one that threads into the aluminum harp support. I don't see #1 in that screenshot but really, a #8-15 x 1-1/2" Phillips oval head wood screw would be readily available at a hardware store. I just checked Vintage Vibe's site and I don't think I'm able to find a #1 screw listed.


9
The screw in the upper-right corner of that screenshot would be #1 in the diagram. Though they don't list the actual size and I can't figure out what a "Mark II baffle" might be. Regardless, there's only one wood screw of that size that pairs with a finish washer on a Mark II and it's #1 in the diagram.

#2 is the 1/4-20 oval head with a machine thread. Both these screws and the finish washers should be commonly available at the hardware store. You won't be able to find nickel-plated but if you get stainless steel and polish them, they look remarkably similar.

edit I misunderstood the image. That's the 1/4-20 in the upper-right and the Baffle screw is off the screen. I thought I saw a point at the end of the screw.

10
The large screws that thread into the aluminum harp support are 1/4-20 x 2" Phillips oval head machine.
The smaller screws that go into the cheek block support are #8-15 x 1-1/2" Phillips oval head wood.

12
Preamps, Modifications & Upgrades / Re: Slotted Harp Brackets...
« on: July 28, 2017, 08:22:06 AM »
These days, we have found that grinding the side of the tone bar is quick and very effective without any adverse effects.

Do you do anything to protect the metal where you've ground away the plating?

I'm always on the lookout for ways to protect metal when re-plating is not practical.

13
The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / Re: Plural of Rhodes
« on: July 25, 2017, 10:46:58 AM »
Though english/american is not my language I would rather avoid it

Um... what's the Dutch word for Rhodes?

14
5mm is a huge amount to raise the harp.

I have to agree. 5mm is pretty darned thick for a shim. I've got to believe you sacrificed significant dynamic range and touch sensitivity up there by jacking up the harp so much.

If it makes the piano do what you like, then go with it. Just keep in mind if you're ever wondering why notes fail to sound when you're trying to play lightly that the escapement is probably way out of spec. up there.

I normally set things up so that the wood-core hammer tips only barely fall away after striking the tine - i.e. so that the escapement is as tight as possible up there.

15
The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / Re: Plural of Rhodes
« on: July 21, 2017, 12:10:57 PM »
Since Rhodes is a last name that ends in an S, it is properly made plural by adding "es."

What are the singular and plural forms of The United States? (I went looking for plurale tantum proper nouns and that's the only example I could find.)

End of grammar lesson...  ;-)

By all means, keep going. I love this stuff.

16
The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / Re: Plural of Rhodes
« on: July 21, 2017, 10:48:22 AM »
Until I hear otherwise, I'm declaring "Rhodes" to be plurale tantum.

Also, Plurale Tantum is going to be the name of my next band.

17
The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / Re: Plural of Rhodes
« on: July 21, 2017, 10:39:26 AM »
So my answer would be "Rhodes pianos."

That's what I've been doing so far but I'm getting tired of it. Bugs me to add an unnecessary word just because I can't figure out how to leave it out.

18
The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / Plural of Rhodes
« on: July 21, 2017, 09:04:23 AM »
It's a real pain avoiding the plural form of "Rhodes" but I can't figure out how to do it.

Rhodeses? Or is it a self-pluralized word like "sheep"? (Apparently those are called plurale tantum words.)

19
Rhodes do make a relatively weak signal but any standard guitar amplifier from a practice amp to a Marshall stack should be able to make a reasonable sound.

As suggested, check the RCA jack at the rear of the harp. The signal is ready to go directly into an amplifier from that point so if you have an RCA-to-1/4" adapter, you can test from there. The controls on the name rail are passive, the same as on an electric guitar. All they do is remove volume and/or treble. Some folks bypass them altogether and control volume and tone at the amplifier.

So, if you get a good signal from the RCA, you know your name rail controls are the problem. If not, you at least know where to start your investigation.. and the jack itself should probably be Suspect #1.

20
That would be a wooden-key.

21
If we're being specific, it actually depends on the model.

Wooden-key Stage: 44-3/4" x 14-3/4" x 22-1/2"
Plastic-key Stage: 44-3/4" x 13-1/2" x 22-1/2"

I think a Suitcase top matches the dimensions of the Plastic-key Stage but I've never measured one. I don't know the dimensions of the Suitcase amplifier.

Here are models of some cabinets I've made.
http://www.shadetreekeys.com/ShopChart/items.php?models=1&description_filter=cabinet

22
This is one sweet Rhodes, right?

Considering the likely costs involved combined with the hassles of moving a commodity across international boundaries.. are you sure there isn't anything comparable available domestically? Even if your contact in Mexico City is giving the piano away, I'd still think twice about something like this.

1. Small-time shipping contractors are notoriously unreliable. It's an industry that for some reason is rife with scammers. I found one such scammer and almost lost a piano I'd already paid for. Had to hustle and pay a bunch more than I planned to recover the unit.

2. There are a bunch more Rhodes in the States than there are in Mexico (that's a guess but I'll bet it's true). At the risk of bringing morality into the discussion, I'll just say that I like the idea of these pianos being distributed across the globe and that it's a bit of a shame that one would be recalled from a region where they're already pretty scarce. It probably took a lot of work to get that piano down there. Seems a waste to bring it back. But I generally hate it when people try to impose their values onto someone else's vintage instrument so that's the last you'll hear from me on this subject. If you want that piano, go get it.

23
The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / Re: Strobe tuners
« on: July 14, 2017, 10:45:51 AM »
I want a tuner that responds fast enough so that I can tune the bass notes either for the moment of the strike or allowing them to ring out a bit. Each way has advantages, but I'd like a tuner that allows me to do either well.  That argues for a strobe, since I understand the needle ones typically respond more slowly.

I don't know how its response time stacks up to other tuners but that FMIT program can display a 'pitch history' graph that will show how the pitch changes over time. Plus, I like the way the primary tuning view shades the background behind the needle as it swings back and forth in response to an unstable note. Makes finding the average easy.

24
The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / Re: Strobe tuners
« on: July 14, 2017, 10:42:13 AM »
However, the Rhodes piano does not have inharmonicity.

This is my understanding as well. Since the tines vibrate in a single arc - i.e., there are no nodes - there is nothing to introduce inharmonicity. Also, there's this study that Rob A did.
http://ep-forum.com/smf/index.php?topic=4580.msg22261#msg22261

25
Cormac
Instead of a photo only a no-enter-sign (if that's the right english word) shows up.

Same for me.

Oh, the irony.

26
By not notifying the users, it kept them from migrating to a different site by locking down their photos.

Do you not even have access to the photos yourself?

I agree the lack of notice was almost certainly a ploy to get people to pay up. There are likely many business that relied on that service who would have to pay to keep their e-commerce sites running.

27
Now that I think about it, why don't you start hosting your images on the web server where retrorentals.net lives? All of the links would be to your domain name so even if you have to move them to a new host, as long as you keep your domain, the links will continue to work.

28
The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / Re: Strobe tuners
« on: July 13, 2017, 07:06:30 AM »
The Stroboflip seems to be discontinued, but seems similar to the Strobo Plus HD I've been looking at. Why did you abandon yours to move on to a software tuner?

Almost every tuner I've tried has struggled to provide meaningful information about the entire range of a Seventy Three. Particularly in the treble, they all have trouble locking onto the fundamental pitch. After using the Strobo-Flip for a while, I wanted to see if anything else could do better. The computer in my shop is wired into the amplification system so using software tuners is actually easier than hooking up stand-alone units. Plus, the big monitor display is nicer to look at than a handheld device.


(That's actually just an oscilloscope program, not the tuner I currently use)

In addition to all that, the tuner I use now provides other information I really like. I've used its waveform display to inform my voicing process and I use its volume graph to help me equalize the pickup placement. It's got lots of other stuff that I haven't explored including an overtone graph.

http://gillesdegottex.github.io/fmit/

What's funny is, I can't write the name of the software or the forum will reject my post, presumably because it looks like spam.

29
Betcha Cormac could run something that would find all of your photobucket links and update them in one pass.

You might want to think twice about using another free image hosting service.

Seems like photobucket played this poorly - why no notice to the users? Why such a steep price? - but really, if they go bankrupt providing free hosting, all of those images would disappear anyway.

30
The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / Re: Strobe tuners
« on: July 12, 2017, 10:43:00 AM »
I used a Peterson Strobo-Flip (my most popular video!) tuner for a while but quickly switched to an electronic tuner.

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