Messages

We're restored several memory moogs here @retrolinear,  all MM versions as well that being standard MM, MM plus and LIN mod.
Of all the polys we've serviced short of maybe a CS80 or Rhodes/ARP Chroma - MM's are a royal PITA to get right.  Karl Frick one of our EE's here designed a new power supply for the MM - which fixes some of the self destructive properties these synths are cursed with from the factory at least providing good foundation to sleuth out glitches.
A proper restore is easily a 100-120 hour job for a competent tech.
Be prepared to spend, and BEWARE anyone quoting sub $5-7k on restoration costs..

There are maybe 4 or 5 qualified techs in the US to handle these.   I'm not naming names but do your homework before taking it anywhere, lots of fake-repairs out in the world..   You essentially get one chance to restore it right.   Poorly executed repairs virtually eliminates the likelihood of your MM being saved..

Over the last year I've been handling the shipping on Rhodes, Wurlitzers, Large synths all over the place here at RetroLinear.
Best bet is a wooden crate at least 1/2" Plywood, add 2" Cell cushioning foam in every direction.
4x4" blocks on the bottom to allow handling via pallet jacks and forklifts.
$250 crate is a sound investment for instruments selling for thousands of dollars

When shipping a clav its import to make sure the pickups are tight, no movement-   supported internally, all it takes is 1 good smash and those pickups crack-game over mojo dead.

Thanks for all the kind words Alan and Doc

Hey WurlieNewbie
If you can shoot an email to mike@retrolinear.com  we'll get ya sorted out.


Thanks!

Good to hear!  Just so you know- we have our amp kits and replacement parts setup so if your purchasing an amp + additional parts like the varivib, knobs, pots, output board etc the add-on items are  discounted

Almost forgot, our CTS Switched vol pot is 10K Audio taper.

Our new production CTS Volume pots work with original Wurlitzer 200A and our EP200A Amplifiers
if you need one shoot me an email >>   mike@retrolinear.com   - we'll get ya situated


Thanks.

My advice would be to try softer tips in this area, (its not futile to change out tips at all!) Give some square 'white' tips a blast from VV which are softer than the standard graduated white tips and see if this improves things or alternatively, extend the yellow tips upwards into the white tip area and see if this helps.

Also, you can shave a little off the tip edge to remove the grooves and this will likely help too if you don't want to change out the tips. Also, changing out the grommets and screws in this area may well help- hardened grommets give a more pronounced attack. It may just be that changing the grooved tips for new white graduated tips will do the job too. But you are correct in as much as these tips and the woodcore tips do groove up quicker than other areas...

GoldPhinga we know you have an excellent amount of knowledge on Rhodes, however in this instance we'd like to politely ask that you please don't offer advice for an instrument you haven't seen, touched or evaluated in person.

We don't know anything about the tips your are recommending so- if they're not the same height as the tips currently installed in his piano it will likely cause escapement and strike line issues, which leads down a path of endless frustration.     This piano was just restored, not even a month ago.
Out of every Janus Rhodes we've restored this is in the top 3.  It has new grommets among many other new or original parts under the hood and a complete electronic rebuild.  As for the hammer tips inside the piano, they have maybe 10% wear, they're still supple and they passed our sonic standards, if it ain't broke we're not gonna "fix" it..


His piano sounds great, dynamics out that wazoo-   It reacts the way it does not just because its setup well, but because it's not packed full of questionable parts.
Take a listen>>   https://youtu.be/-7J47-5GXl4


We'll be in touch with Thelonius

Updated!

We (RetroLinear) Manufacture the Warneck Research Variable speed vibratos and amps, same as Ken offers   Our Amplifier and Varvibs have proven their reliability on the road and in the studio! If you have any questions or concerns adding the 3rd hole w/ faceplate, we have you covered!  Everything we produce here at Retro is supported 100%!   

Also the entire electronics package is very simple to upgrade, can be done in about 1.5-2 hours total.

Nice find! Estate stuff is becoming few and far between.

Did you by any chance install new damper felts?

FWIW- most guitar overdrive / distortions won't handle the transients a Rhodes produces very well. Don't waste too much time/bucks its just going to be a fizzle festival
The compressor can boost yes, but will also "knee" or "shelf" the attack/thump of the bass tone. Results may vary with the compressor.

An option would be wiring your stage piano for dual output- Split the lower register and wire in a Rhodes piano bass tone stack and setting up / voicing the lower register like a piano bass.
It's a project for sure but the piano bass tone stack/setup is the ticket imo!  I believe Ray had this done on a few of his pianos, one of the youtube vids floating around has that setup or at least appears to have that setup. Again the crucial aspect is having the voicing / setup nailed down right.

One of our collector customers has both the silver and gold sparkle piano basses which he runs into a vintage ampeg SVT, totally nails the sound, no pedals necessary.
Any amp without a HF driver will probably get you close, especially a 15" w/ tubes-  big slow responding speaker will equal flubo tones like the original recording.

Happy new year!

Glad we could assist! 

Personally all though the Wurly speakers have a certain "Lo-Fi" charm they're not exactly practical for live use..
Drilling the lid to mount speakers is nerve wracking!! And without a drill template its difficult to line everything up uniform- keep in mind you get only 1 chance!!!

You could use a rotary selector to toggle between front/back/off or whatever configuration you settle on..

Post up some pics

Since its mono why not just mount one speaker forward (audience) and one speaker toward the player?
A speaker kill switch w/ Line out is useful too for recording.
Also you might need to deaden/dampen the cabinet so it doesn't oscillate the piano.

And lastly- a tad of shameless self promotion, One of our amp boards would be a nice addition

Hi
Here is a layout diagram
http://www.retrolinear.com/media/20650/200a_LAYOUT.pdf

We are working on install videos, its been on the TO-DO list for a while!!


if you have any other questions or need help please don't hesitate to contact us, were here to help
215-699-8000 or you can email info@retrolinear.com


Thanks

Here are my two personal favorites.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cy__8J5HU6g
Miles shreds...

and
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gvReNg2e0aY
beach boys shreds.


youtube has hundreds of shreds videos..
Some good, some bad...

Alan, we did remove the bump on that 1979! However the dynamic response is the result of a good setup! We're all about the setup and Tim is nothing short of fanatical about nailing the subtle nuances of what makes a great playing/sounding Rhodes.

If anyone cares to do some comparative listening here is a range of pianos we've done over the last 5-6 years, notice the consistent sound from era to era? :-)

• 1973 Suitcase 88> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KTHnOdMysAM
• 1973 Suitcase 73>> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e-Iiu2AqxqY
• 1975 Suitcase 88>> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=62taR00M53Y
• 1976 Stage 73 >> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x1jHNDbuiNs
• 1977 Suitcase 73>> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VgZFf6aqKug
• 1978 Stage 73>> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CVPUKPx-LOE
• 1979 Stage 73 Mk.II>> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HwIZhqQzMJg

For example this one Late 1979 Mk.II.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HwIZhqQzMJg

[Smokin'....]

Smokin'....

Grommet Gate, love it

If I can just make a blanket statement as this thread seems to have quite a few individuals heated.

There are many grommets available on the market, some right, some wrong, some are merely McMaster grommets being resold on ebay which are fine for use elsewhere but not as a Rhodes part.

RetroLinear has spent a considerable amount of time/funds on prototype batches of grommets and screws to get our recipe right.  As always I back my statements up with how our pianos sound when finished.   I'll provide honest sound advice but our customers make all final decisions on their purchases.

And to be blunt--   none of us parts manufactures are producing 6 types of screws for every era of Rhodes piano, that would be pointless. The only reason why there were so many screws used throughout the years was because the vendors changed.

Our grommets are identical to the originals. Back in 1989 Tim found a Rhodes parts supplier (MDS, Chicago, IL) He purchased original unused Rhodes grommets and we've cloned those - every detail dimensionally and chemically. The screws we produce are custom sized to fit these grommets. We have installed our grommets into over 100 pianos without any problems.  We also have a group of technicians using our grommets without any problems.

Moving along- traditionally mixing different era parts in a Rhodes does not pan out, it's safe to say that's a pretty factual statement. The forum search feature on this website can infinitely reinforce that statement.   The term "uniform production" obviously wasn't important in the span of Rhodes manufacturing, otherwise there would not be so many inconsistencies.

I constantly preach this to clients on the phone.  You have to use the right stuff to get the right results. You also need to understand what you are doing. There are specialist shops for a reason. The skills required to set these up RIGHT are heavily based on experience. For instance Tim has been working on Rhodes Pianos for 25 years, before the internet, I trust he knows how to produce a grommet.

The grommets function is to isolate each note from one another and eliminate unwanted sympathetic vibrations.   For the grommet to function properly it requires a semi-snug fit,  it must have the proper hardness and be made from the correct materials so it doesn't dry out, crack and split.
The kits come complete with screws and washers because over the last 30-40 years most of these pianos have had "improvised" repairs and its optimal to have straight / uniform screws for a good setup. If the tone bar mounting screws are bent it will cause the tone bar assembly to shimmy left and right.  Having the tone bars pivoting left/right is quite a nuisance in setup and it moves the head of the Tine away from the pickup which is not optimal.  Ideally you want the end of the tine centered on the pickup.

Our screws and washers have a plating which resists rust/corrosion, this plating was chosen for its function.  We have had some folks say "hey they aren't chrome plated" but keep in mind -it's not a cosmetic part and the goal is to produce a long lasting reliable part that doesn't break down, rust etc.

"Bark" comes from setup and voicing.  The grommet has no effect on the percussive side of the piano or the dynamic response of attack.

Roy, as we discussed in email your Rhodes has a mixture of tines which creates strike-line issues! Setting up your Rhodes is a complex task to achieve without addressing the mixed tines issue. When you have all 3 types of tines in a Rhodes the strike line is not consistent and getting consistent sounds is tough. Please keep that in mind.
When installing new grommets, screws, washers you will have to reset escapement on the entire harp.  Escapement is set by the 1st screw on the tone bar, closest to the keys. you need to take the square part of the tine (tine block) and place that on the harp as follows. See escapement_1.jpg
Picture #2 shows the height difference.

Start at one end of the harp and set escapement for each note. Set escapement at  .375" or 9.5mm.
That is the correct procedure. This will give you a good baseline to start voicing which is where the bark and dynamics comes into play.

Please accept our apologies on your difficulties,  I cannot express enough to our clients and customers that the sum of a good Rhodes isn't just about bolting new parts in and getting instant results! We have had dozens of folks buy $400-600 in parts off the internet, install them into their pianos and have had poor results at best - a good deal of these pianos come to our shop essentially destroyed..

Good parts can solve functional problems etc, but good setups make good instruments that's what really counts with a Rhodes.

Awesome, congrats

Digitech Drop?

Peterson preamps are 4 pins, Janus preamps are 5 pins, just to clarify!

Start with verifying that you have installed the transistors and caps correctly.
Check the collector, base and emitter pinout of each transistor.
if you install a transistor in the pre-amp backward it will create distortion/clipping sounds.

There is a mixture of capacitor types inside. Some capacitors are standard "plus & minus" setup but- there are also non-polar capacitors.
if you install a standard in place of non-polar and vice versa, that can also create issues.

There could also be a biasing issue.

pics might help - its difficult to troubleshoot electronics without bench gear (scopes etc)..
if you get in a bind we can rebuild your preamp, amps etc- very common thing to do

Good luck!

We just wrapped up a 206 for Glenn McClelland of Ween!
Take a listen   https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5SA5e8k3fNc&feature=youtu.be

smooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooth

We'll have the next one out soon

Here's the answer!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PHtKdm3AeuA&feature=youtu.be


Stay tuned for the next one, we'll be doing them weekly

it is a series!
The correct answer will be revealed later today

Test your E.P.I.Q. - This weeks episode:   Whats wrong with this note?
Watch the video here>>>   https://youtu.be/8G8QxXpRGnw
Vote here>> https://www.facebook.com/Retrolinear-Inc-315574318529710/


answer here>> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PHtKdm3AeuA&feature=youtu.be

We have bulbs in-stock if you still require a set. GE Brand. Guaranteed proper fit and function.
Shoot an email to mike@retrolinear.com  I can pop a set into the mail for you asap


Good luck

Nice Max!! Thank you for doing the comparison

dude! get back to work!

Ben, Congrats on the new biz!  Nice to see that Signature 3 knob- Retrolinear wurli-amp/vari-vib setup on the blue wurli! Good arsenal of gear too




,Mike

I don't know about that... IMHO is that if you change the amp in a 140B, it will alter the sound too much. That amp has a distinct sound... even though its low powered, it has it's own charm.

No worries Steveo  , Tim nailed those 200/a series amps and vari-vibs dead on! Surely he'll nail the 140 amp too (which is a work in progress)

Cinnamonrolli,  thanks for the kind words


I have some more variable speed vibrato vids to post up, stay tuned!

call Tim over at Retrolinear, their hammer tips are spot on!  Tell them Albert (Al)  sent you over


good luck!!!

We do manufacture hammer tips, But! only for pianos which date 1976 or prior that utilize square /non profiled style hammer tips.
A great deal of time, research and work was put into producing these tips accurately. Tim tested several batches to refine the recipe to perfection.



Mike





Mike.

Check your pm's

Thanks!
RetroMike.

We've recently completed restoring a Moog Modular Analog Synth (a modified system 55).
Just as a teaser we've uploaded a short clip for everyone's enjoyment, we have some additional footage to compile and upload, Tim runs through patching, modules etc and how to dial them in from a general perspective!

video here:   http://youtu.be/YY0ToVtvNzc
some after shots here in our gallery (bottom of page)  >> http://www.retrolinear.com/services/analog-synth-restoration.aspx


Much more to come!

Thanks!

Hi Mike,
Does the Retrolinear Warneck amp include the preamp board as an all in one board?
OR Is it normal to replace the preamp board as well when adding the Warneck board for amp/his/buzz problems?
Hope you can clarify.Thanks for your help.
Regards

The WR amp boards replace all internal electronics minus the transformer, pots, jacks etc. The small preamp board is no longer required with the installation.
We are working on installation videos, keep an eye out for them on our website & youtube channel.

Thanks!

[Rebuilding is virtually pointless..]

We have posted a few times in regard to wurli amp rebuilds- and I'll re-post again
Rebuilding is virtually pointless.. It's understandable that everybody wants to save some coin. BUT the original amps are problematic in any state, original or rebuilt or even re-issued.  The architecture of the amp is the problem,the hiss, ground loop buzz and all the other associated issues wont be resolved by putting new components into the original boards..

Tim's Board (RetroLinear) is a complete redesign which addresses the issues while maintaining proper vibrato, voicing, and E.Q. curve..
Our boards are built using the best components available, each board is hand stuffed,soldered and assembled in the U.S.A. @ RetroLinear, then individually tested. Our Q.C. process is very thorough.

Timpotent, That board pic is an older rev of our 200a board.
our current production 200a boards are blue.


The 200 amp kit also comes with reed bar shields to address any additional grounding noise.


Here are some demos
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o7xGq5KkTHg
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u-mo0vHV7io

We would like to give a big Thank You to everyone here for the support and kind words

A few updates going on here at the shop! We have parts for purchase on the site under the web store / wuriltzer parts section.
And we've expanded the VariVib design for the 140B model

Great to hear your local Give us a call and make a trip over

We added "buy now" buttons on our parts today, and added all the wurli parts we currently offer onto 1 page


Thanks
Mike Norton
Retrolinear.com

[Good luck! Keep us posted!]

Restoring original wurli amps is really a futile process-
Please- I know some folks here may scold me for saying such things. hear me out.

After you get done removing the amp & desoldering all the old components
Then spending 2 hours on your parts website of choice to "add to cart" all the parts needed for rebuild
Then soldering in new parts
Then reinstalling the amp
You've easily consumed a day to rebuild an amp that will still be noisy and plagued with problems- even rebuilt.
The original design of the amp itself is dated by today's standards.
Even with new components the original amps STILL produce a great deal of hiss and random snap,crackle and pops as its circuit architecture is inferior.
I cannot emphasize this enough, we've had numerous customers and various techs comment on rebuilding and they all say the same thing. "its a headache I'll replace the amp!"

As for your 206. Our amp board will drop right onto the amp rail without any problems.  The installation is a breeze. All you need is a screwdriver, pair of cutters, wire stripper , small slot screwdriver and a phillips- NO SOLDERING NECESSARY.. We also offer support for installation over the phone free of charge, you can upgrade the 206 wurli in the matter of less than an hour and have something very reliable that sounds killer. We can also walk you through how to do the heaphone jack output and our board has a line out as well which defeats the speakers onboard the piano giving you a noise free line out for amps/house/pa.. Our vari-vib option comes with a new faceplate and knob if you decide to go that route.

Tim has had me installing Warneck 200/200A amps on our restored wurlis for about a year now and I cannot express how quiet and well our boards sound- you can't even tell its on, till you play the piano.. Yes your saying He works there of course, but honestly- ours sounds great, Tim did a stellar job on the design of the amp while retaining the original wurli voicing and proper vibrato spot on.

If your looking to get the best possible upgrade for your 200 series check out our board and Varivib setup   Good luck! Keep us posted!


Take a listen
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o7xGq5KkTHg

http://www.retrolinear.com/web-store/warneck-research.aspx

Thanks
Mike Nortron
Retrolinear.com.

here is another vid with Grace.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KJkyI4vEhFQ&feature=youtu.be


Those piano's are stored up in New York so who knows how Herbie ended up with Donald's piano, I would guestimate the know each other and have crossed paths in the past (note if they haven't, collaboration hint!!!)

That Herbie Hancock & Josh Groban performance is from 2008, it is Grace as she was from Ken Rich initially, prior to any reworks.

SD takes all 3 with them! I think that and something like 40 guitar amps I hear

Thanks for the kind words!!

[Lucy]

All three of Donald Fagen's Rhodes pianos were sent into Retrolinear for preparation of the upcoming Steely Dan tour.
We wanted to share how they came out  Each piano has differences in feel and tonality (Personally I'm partial to Lucy but all three certainly sound amazing)

Lucy underwent a full restoration, there was a litany of issues with the piano itself and the amplifier required a total overhaul.
We have some of the nitty gritty details on our site and a before video http://www.retrolinear.com/new-stuff/steely-dan-round-2!!!.aspx
Grace and Wilma were also restored by us here, but at an earlier date so they only required some minor adjustments.

It took sometime to sort footage and edit, but without any further delay, Grace,Wilma & Lucy.
BIG Thank you to Scott Coulter for coming and doing his thing for us.

We recorded with a Pair of Neumann KM184 mics on the front speakers of each Suitcase bottom. The mics ran into small Yahama mixer with the main outs patched into the audio/aux in of the Zoom Q3HD Hd video camera. Added a hint of Reverb. No compression, totally 100% flat eq- unaltered recording.

Lucy
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KTHnOdMysAM

Grace
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8lAasti4CGY

Wilma
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4TlQh0ypYAo

Hey folks just a quick update.  Retrolinear is now offering Grommets & Screws for Rhodes electric pianos. Dealer pricing is available and at a considerable discount for your rebuilds. And we'll do bulk pricing if you want to stock up on supplies. Our replacement grommets are produced under the most strict attention to detail!  The dimensions and profile are 100% matched to the originals for exact fitment. Most important our grommets density/hardness is spot on to the original grommets insuring the same voicing, sustain & durability. Retrolinear grommets will not split,crack, dryout or pancake during installation and you can be rest assured they're the best replacement grommets & screws on the market. Our screws are the correct length, taper & shoulder profile which makes installation a headache free operation. 











For more details please contact mike@retrolinear.com
or visit www.retrolinear.com

Forgot to mention. We're also offering these at Dealer Pricing so if your a repair shop and want to get the Best reeds on the market for your vintage wurli's shoot us a call!!!

[Our current new parts line for Wurlitzer electric Pianos]

Many thanks to the EP forum for allowing us to promote our products here!   Updated 9/16/21

Our current new parts line for Wurlitzer electric Pianos


Amplifier kits & VariVib Variable speed vibrato kits for 200,200A and 140 series pianos
http://www.retrolinear.com/web-store/wurlitzer-replacement-parts/wurlitzer-electronics.aspx


Volume, Vibrato potentiometers for 200 & 200A series pianos
http://www.retrolinear.com/web-store/wurlitzer-replacement-parts/wurlitzer-knobs-pots.aspx



200 & 200A Series output boards
http://www.retrolinear.com/web-store/wurlitzer-replacement-parts/200-200a-output-board.aspx

We also have a complete compliment of Hardware & Action components for 200,200A, 140B pianos instock!


Thanks,
Mike Norton
RetroLinear.com