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Messages - Julian T

#1
Its a niche instrument. A new instrument made by the only company in the world providing new pianos of this type, in the US with US costs. I get the price totally. As to is it 'worth' it - ep service in nl do fully refurbed 73 stages for 2750 euros plus cost of the preamp/installation plus shipping - assuming you don't want midi, which would then add more than 1k to that I'm guessing. Of course the various 'sizes' could be important for some. More power to them IMO, more options the better, but yeah value is always a tough call
#2
I'm thinking of getting one later in the year - this thing about weight though - you need to add a flight case as you can't stick it in a van without one, so by the time you had a case to the same protection level as a rhodes... advantages for me are the action, the preamp etc. what concerned me in the review was the lack of setup - buying in Europe you need to have confidence in it, because if you have to start fiddling, you might as well get e refurb rhodes and retrofit a vv pre. as to price... these are custom made, handmade, premium items, something a rhodes never was, check out how much a custom no-frills guitar would cost, then compare the complexity of that with a piano - or the price of a refurbed B3!
#3
The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / Keycaps
January 14, 2013, 11:56:05 AM
Anyone know of an eu source offering a keycap service???

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#4
The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / Re: vv backcheck mod
January 10, 2013, 01:35:21 AM
no problems with the glues so far... really like how it plays though. When I was fitting it I was so intent on comparing the key I was working on with its neighbour, I really wasn't sure anything was happening, then when I put the lid on and played the thing - wow...
#5
The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / vv backcheck mod
January 06, 2013, 12:56:03 PM
Just installed the vv backcheck mod. Fiddly but worth it. If I was doing it again, I'd start how the vv vid does - note 1 then 73, but I would then unscrew them and run the line on the screw holes. Then if you keep one backcheck as a template for the folds, use an awl to start the hole, then screw in on the line. Would be faster IMO
#6
The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / Re: keys hitting wood
December 17, 2012, 06:37:58 AM
yeah this is the problem. I adjust the tone screws so everything is as far forward as it can go but still no better. If I move the strike line forward on the rh side everything works fine, but I'm not set up for drilling into metal. I've decided I'm taking it back to basics,set the key dip again, level the keys etc and start from scratch
#8
The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / keys hitting wood
December 15, 2012, 02:07:05 PM
Managed to solve this by shimming the harp. Still more of a 'clack' after the harp bracket, but much better. Thanks for the suggestions

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#9
The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / keys hitting wood
December 15, 2012, 11:05:39 AM
Thanks for these ideas I'll try them. The harp assembly is actually 'shimmed' by strips of fibre board on both ends... I'll post some pics

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#10
The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / Re: keys hitting wood
December 15, 2012, 10:20:59 AM
I've actually spent a little while with this now. Basically, if I take the harp off their is no clank - so it can't be mechanical. If I set up the escapement by measuring, adjust the tines and pickups to the ideal position, then put the harp back down on the action, a large number of hammers either hit the mounting blocks, or stick. A quick scale on the last octave caused two hammer tips to fall off... anything below the last harp bracket is fine - anything above really tricky...
#11
The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / Re: keys hitting wood
December 15, 2012, 06:17:14 AM
thanks I'll check that. It is definitely acoustic, and I can actually feel the key hitting wood at the bottom of the travel even on very slow key presses
#12
The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / keys hitting wood
December 15, 2012, 02:43:38 AM
On the top 12th of my new rhodes the keys emit a horrible clank. It feels like the keys are hitting directly onto wood. Even pressing them down very slowly - too slow for a hammer strike, they click as the bottom out. I haven't the time at the moment to take anything apart, just wondering what this could be?
#13
Thanks David!
#14
the small screw that holds the damper bar - one each side and a rod to hold it in place - no 2 looks to big???
#15
Can someone tell me what size screw driver I need to fit the small screws on either side of the damper bar??? Thanks!
#16
First post and an introduction! I've just acquired my 3rd Rhodes. The last two were both mk1 suitcases from 76. I've been rhodes-less for the last 15 years, and I was looking around for one. Couldn't afford a full refurb, and living in Spain, I was going to have buy sight unseen so wanted some one with a good rep who  would sell me a piano repaired but not refurbed. I cam across http://www.klassickeysgb.com/ in the UK who had a 5th week of 78 suitcase. I agreed a (for me!) really good price with a list of what Doug would do - in the end did a whole lot more than he said he would and i got a really good piano - odd bits need doing but it plays like a dream. Got it voiced nice and bright with a hint of bark when I dig in -

I'll be asking some questions later about some bits and pieces I want to do... oh and Doug will be/is importing vintage pianos into the UK I think - not related in anyway just  a very happy punter