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Messages - mvanmanen

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Amps, Effects & Recording Techniques / Re: JC-40?
« on: August 06, 2019, 06:43:27 PM »
I recently came into a JC-120. It's a loud amp. If I lived in an apartment I would look at alternatives.

It really is worthwhile bringing your Wurlitzer to a music store and trying out different amps and maybe even a powered speaker to find what you really like. Everyone has their own preferences.


Any chance you could make a recording of it? Retrolinear has one of the best reputations in the restoration business. Without hearing it...I would not dream of making any recommendations.

What is your frame of reference for a Fender Rhodes? Most sampled or digital versions usually do not have the "character" that comes with electromechanical keyboards including the inherent noise of the upper registers from harder tips hitting shorter tines.

Classic & Modern Fender Rhodes Artists / Re: Mr. Clean (Groove Holmes)
« on: March 07, 2019, 03:02:13 PM »
Gosh that is so funky! This is my favourite recording:

Buying / Re: Clean Rhodes 78 or ugly 72?
« on: March 03, 2019, 11:55:16 PM »
$500 seems like a great price. If the 72 were near me I would snag it in a second.

If you have a chance to post some pictures please share.  :)

Buying / Re: Clean Rhodes 78 or ugly 73?
« on: March 02, 2019, 08:44:13 AM »
Offer him $1000 for the pair  ;)

The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / Re: How to save a bad tine?
« on: February 28, 2019, 09:47:19 AM »
I usually square off the ends of my tines after cutting them...this one does not appear to have been nicely cut...nor is the rest nice and cylindrical as you mentioned previously....I think you should replace the tine

Replacing hammer tips is something that just needs to be done as they get grooved, harden, worn, etc. from use and time. Thankfully there are lots of people who sell them (Vintage vibe, Ken Rich, Retrolinear, etc.) as mentioned. I am pretty sure that the ones offered by Ken Rich and Retrolinear are the same. I have had great experience with them, and those offered by Vintage Vibe.

Here is a video showing the process:

Fresh hammer tips is probably the best money and time I have ever spent on making my clavinets sound awesome!

also... what is the outlet under the "ia" under the words "Stage Piano" ?

I bet you this is the jack for a power you would find on a guitar pedal. Perhaps it is one of those mini power supply jacks like you find on some older MXR pedals, tube screamers, etc.

It is possible one of the input jacks bypasses the electronics and you can simply plug and play from the front, and certainly you can plug and play directly off of the RCA jack once you have the correct cord as Cormac described. The reason for plugging into the RCA jack is that this is probably the fastest way to verify everything before the electronics in the signal pathway is functioning appropriately (and honestly may ultimately get you the best sound as all of these electronics may suck tone).

I think there must be a battery or power cord to supply the custom electronics...but having never seen these custom electronics I have no idea how they work.

It looks like a really interesting Fender Rhodes. Congratulations on the purchase. I am sure you will get it playing soon :)

I cannot see really well what is going on with the wiring of all of the knobs. I imagine for people to be of assistance you are going to have to unscrew the harp and take some more detailed pictures of the wiring...unless someone on the forum recognizes this effect/preamp unit from the posted pictures. If you are anxious to just get playing. You could plug an RCA cable directly into the harp and tap the signal while you are figuring out the electronics.

Could you take the lid off and take some pictures of the inside? I am sure someone with more experience will chime in but the additional controls featured to the right of the Bass Boost / Volume knob are for an aftermarket effects unit / preamp which will rely on a battery or some other power source. I imagine your answer will be found when you take the plastic lid off ;)

I think both are very much suited for mellow stuff, although a lot of the R&B and Hip Hop I hear sounds like sampled rhodes to me.

As far as which is more mellow, I think it truly does depend very much on how they are set-up. I think that the early 1970s can be voiced across a wider range meaning I can voice a 1973 to sound similar to the late 1970s/early 1980s Rhodes. But I find it hard to get a late 1970s/early 1980s Rhodes to cover the same voicing range as a 1973. To my ears, late 1970s/early 1980s also have a bit of a thin, nasal quality to their sound that while being very musical never gets quite as fat as the early 1970s models.

If price is no issue, I would suggest buying the 1973 and send it to a really experienced tech to restore and set it up exactly as you like it. I have no doubt a well restored 1973 can be voiced however you like it!

1973 really produced some very nice pianos. I would be inclined to "rationalize" paying a bit above market value for such if that makes your decision easier. Besides getting an amazing deal on a piano that you ultimately are just not that big a fan of the tone of or needs tons of work is not a bargain unless you enjoy fixing them up.

That being said, I could not see any pictures of the inside to get a sense of the hammer tips, grommets, and whether there are any broken tines. Replacement tines do add up in price. I have found most of the early 1970s pianos really benefit from having their grommets ± hammer tips replaced which is not a huge job by any means but still is an additional cost of time and parts to consider.

Good luck with your decision!

I have a RE-201 and do find that it unavoidably colours the tone, but I never gig with it so it is not a big deal to plug in or plug it out for when I feel like using it. I have heard of some people giving it a capacitor job but am not sure whether even with fresh caps that you are not going to loose some tone through the 201's circuitry. My suggestion therefore would be to look at some kind of loop interface pedal so you can completely remove the 201 from your signal chain when it is not in use, and a higher end splitter to divide your signal send to your amps. I use a SupraTrem2 as a "splitter" and find the tone is very much preserved. Plus you get stereo tremolo bouncing back and forth between the two amps.

BTW I would love to hear your set-up. Twin Twin Reverbs sounds epic!

It reminds me of a chord organ. Do you have pictures of the inside?

Are you taking the signal of the rhodes directly off the RCA jack (harp) using a DI?

The Wurlitzer Electric Piano / Re: Repair Wurlitzer Speaker
« on: July 27, 2018, 06:13:07 PM »
It is high...but honestly shipping is high these days when dealing with vendors from the United States.I rarely buy anything off eBay that is not through the Global Shipping Program and certainly am hesitant buying from vendors who use USPS. I end up getting royally dinged with shipping fees, brokerage fees, etc. for anything coming from the United States. If someone knows of shipping tricks please share. Perhaps as a Canadian I am better now buying from oversees?

Parts, Service, Maintenance & Repairs / Re: Pianet T reed out of tune
« on: January 05, 2018, 10:56:30 AM »
Glad to hear you found a solution that worked!
I hear what you are saying about the cost of these replacement reeds.

Parts, Service, Maintenance & Repairs / Re: Pianet T reed out of tune
« on: January 01, 2018, 10:57:02 AM »
I would look inside you pianet to see if there are any weights loose in the bottom of the case.
Then I would phone Ken Rich, Vintage Vibe, Chicago electric piano company, etc. and ask if they have any they could sell you.
Perhaps someone on the forum might have some extras?
I do not have any experience DIYing replacement weights.

Parts, Service, Maintenance & Repairs / Re: Pianet T reed out of tune
« on: January 01, 2018, 10:06:25 AM »
A weight had fallen off one of my pianet reeds which was "way off" in tuning. I would double check you are missing any weights before tuning it.

Other Keyboards & Software Synths / Re: Hohner Pianet T volume
« on: December 19, 2017, 01:01:58 AM »
I love my Pianet T for what it is...

You could try re-magnetizing any particularly quiet reeds. I also have found it useful to experiment with some different amplifiers to find the right match, or even just trying out an EQ pedal, even something simple like one of those MXR 10-band EQ pedals. All that being said, I have found it most useful to adjust the pickups primarily with the aim to get even volume/tone across the keybed (rather than maximum bark) as some tines just seem to bark more than others on my pianet despite all manipulations.


Amps, Effects & Recording Techniques / Re: EHX Stereo Pulsar
« on: November 18, 2017, 10:17:06 PM »
Does the supa-trem 2 have less background noise?

I have one. No background noise.
Very little to no tone loss.
Excellent pedal.

I know it is a bit expensive but I use this.

I put the bag partially on when the legs are still screwed then lay the wurlitzer on the side to unscrew the legs and zip up the bag the rest of the way. This way the surfaces of the wurlitzer never see contact with the floor. The bag for the the pedal and legs works fine too.

All that being said, if I were to have other people moving my stuff I would invest in a hard case.

Problem solved...I measured the resistance of all the pickups and one was way off. The wires are corroded. Anyone have an extra green 1960s pickup I can buy off them? I only need one ;)

+1 on the let off adjustment wrench

It took me some time to really get the hang of doing this but it is one of the best bang-for-buck things. I also bought the wrench from vintage vibe. I think it is actually handy to have both sometimes.

For the name rail both pots are 250K and the three caps are all 100nF. The name rail seems to pass the signal from other audio fine so perhaps all is just the way it is supposed to be?
I am just amazed at volume loss when the piano bass itself goes through the name rail in advance of the amp. It's like there is an impedance mismatch between the harp and the name rail.

Thanks Sean. Yeah. I have already spent quite a bit of time cleaning it up. Everything is working great coming off the harp recognizing I need to be sensitive to where I am plugging it.  I think the only thing at this point it really needs is whatever is going on with the name rail fixed and new damper felts for a few notes although I am inclined to just replace all the damper felts. I sent VV an email so will see what they say.

BTW working a piano bass is so much easier than a full 73 or 88. Fewer tines to clean, tune, and voice, less weight to lift and surface area to clean, etc....

I would say yes with  tweaking...but it is hard to get "even" bark and sustain/pitch stability across the entire keybed. I always seem to have one low notes whereby I need to sacrifice a bit of one or the other to get an even sound. Perhaps those notes just need a new tine?

Is this normal...when I plug the piano bass into an amp off the RCA I get good volume...yet when I plug a second rhodes into the second input of the same amp while the bass bass remains connected instant major volume loss of the piano bass yet the other rhodes maintains its volume.

If this is not normal...what might the problem be?

thanks so much,


By pots it dates to's sitting in front of my Fender Showman and cabinet for size and style.
Need to measure values still

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