Messages

Have you seen this:

http://www.shadetreekeys.com/blog/

Hope it helps.

You may find this thread useful:

http://ep-forum.com/smf/index.php?topic=8243.0;topicseen

See Figure 6-2 of the manual for a tine length chart:

http://www.fenderrhodes.com/org/manual/toc.html

Here is a link to the Rhodes Service Manual.  Reading the whole thing is a good way to gain insight into working on your Rhodes.  There are specific sections addressing the damper mechanism and hammer tips.  One thing you will need to do now is reset each tonebar's height above and distance from its pickup.  You will need patience for this and the other things necessary to "dial in" your piano.  Good luck.

http://www.fenderrhodes.com/org/manual/toc.html

Tap tempo's a gimmick unless you want use the tremolo musically.  Ever tried to synchronize a tremolo?  (Maybe not . . Just a "gimmick.").

If you're going to order a Supa Trm 2, consider pre-ordering to lock in the current Sweetwater price.

Regarding the EHX Stereo Pulsar, I think it's solidly built and a very good deal at $90.  But I see that the Supa Trem 2 has tap tempo, better chips (optical) and "true stereo" whatever that is.  It's $275, but probably worth checking out.

Your choices seem top of the line to me, but I prefer stereo effects, and a compressor.  My current effect path is:

Mono to
BBE Compressor
Deluxe Cry Baby ("vintage"--controls volume when wah is not engaged)
EHX Stereo Pulsar tremelo
Then stereo to
TC Electronics Nova Modulator (stereo chorus/phaser/flanger/vibrato)
TC Electronics Nova (stereo) Reverb

I also have a TCE Nova Delay, but don't use it much for the Rhodes.  I guess the reverb is enough for me.  Good luck!

I use an EHX Stereo Pulsar, but the Fulltone looks worth checking out.

The Rhodes Service Manual has a stretch tuning chart at Figure 5-4:

http://www.fenderrhodes.com/org/manual/ch5.html#5-1

I hope it helps.

Has the volume ever been normal?  Do you have an internal preamp with a dead battery?

Thank you all.  Very interesting.  Tomorrow, I'm going in.  Gotta get some naptha first.

I'm doing my second bump mod on my Mk I 73.  The first was on a 1976 suitcase 88.  It occurred to me that I have no idea WHY this mod helps the action.  I searched here and did not find.  Can anyone explain?  Thanks!

File a claim against the company.  Hopefully, they'll have insurance and you can have a tech do the repairs at their cost.  Good luck, sorry to hear.

Found this on the Nord forum:

Listen to: EP7 Tines Amped
This MK1 was recorded through a magic mix of custom built pre-amps, tube amps and vintage outboard.

http://www.nordkeyboards.com/main.asp?tm=Sound%20Libraries&cllibr=Nord_Piano_Library&clplib=Electric_Piano

I'll be checking it out tonight.

Almost forgot:  if you use a brass brush, make sure it's a new one.  An old one may have particles of steel or chrome in it which would scratch the chrome.

The legs are chrome plated.  If you abrade or scratch through the chrome and expose the steel underneath, that's bad.  That's why I recommended a non-abrasive chemical rust remover.  However, chrome plating is much harder than brass, especially when the chrome plating is new.

Glitz is good stuff, but lots of elbow grease.  I would use a chemical rust remover first, polish with Flitz or similar and put a couple of coats of Johnson's Paste Wax on afterwards to prevent new rust.  Good luck and let us know how they turn out.

Here's a great resource:

http://www.fenderrhodes.com/org/manual/toc.html

My mistake, the new piano is "Italian Grand.". But there are some user-made Rhodes samples available at norduserforum.com. I've been meaning to sample my own.

I just got a Nord Electro 4D and really like it.  The Wurly it came with was better than the Rhodes sample.  Nord just made a new Rhodes sample available.  Here is a link to the Electric Piano Sample download page:

http://www.nordkeyboards.com/main.asp?tm=Sound%20Libraries&cllibr=Nord_Piano_Library&clplib=Electric_Piano

I really like my Nord Electro 4.  It has drawbars and a great stereo Leslie emulator with overdrive.  You can add a second "manual" (keyboard) via midi.  The Leslie emulator is head and shoulders above my Boss RT20.  The Nord Rhodes is not great, but I may be spoiled.

I'll add that the RT20 makes a great Rhodes stereo effect, used subtly.

I use terry cloth, mild soap and warm water, and 303 Protectant instead of ArmorAll.  Good post.

Here's a link to the Rhodes Manual:

http://www.fenderrhodes.com/org/manual/toc.html

Make any adjustments a tiny bit at a time.  Good luck and have fun.

I had one of those, except an 88 key, and always thought it broke up at too low a volume.  Has yours been "improved" by a previous owner?  I would do as suggested above, AFTER trying a separate preamp to boost the signal.

Dunlop Cry Baby from the '70s, EHX Deluxe Memory Boy, Moogerfooger MURF.  Sometimes a Boss RT-20 Rotary speaker emulator, set on slow, in stereo.

You can check it out on YouTube.

Thanks.  Bookmarked.

I second the Yamaha recommendation.  Look for one with an AWG (weighted) keyboard.  Plenty of good cheap CVPs are on the market.

Noteworthy:  Steely Dan's Black Cow.

I'm not sure if this helps but red Loctite Will hold threaded parts almost forever.  Only heat will soften it.

Yeah, mostly in slow, no overdrive.  Subtle is better, less is more.  As yousay, fast sounds like something other than the classic Rhodes.  The other thing I use is a Wah pedal, sometimes just as a tone control.  I just got a mixer with compression built in, but have't tried it with the Rhodes yet.  I also want to try running the Rhodes through the Moog Filtatron app.

Peavey amps are underrated.  I bougaht four used--two pacers (1 12" speaker, 45 watts) and two KB100s (1 15" speaker, high freq. horn, 100 watts).  I use the pacers as a stereo pair at home.  I think I paid $25 for one and $50 for the other.  The KB100s are for stage use as a stereo pair.

I also have a JC120 as a "grab and go" amp.  All bought used and great for the Rhodes.  I use the Boss RT-20 stereo rotary effect.  Not sure why more people don't use a rotary effect or stereo tremolo.  Sounds great.

Don't know, but what synth is that on top of your Rhodes?

Thanks for your work in getting back up and running.

I was able to pick up two identical Peavey Pacer 45 watt amps, eac with a 12" speaker, used. They were about $75 each and needed the pots cleaned with Radio Shack electronic cleaner spray. This allows me to have a nice stereo mix in my tiny home studio.  I have a Roland JC120 for gigging because it also is way loud and I never use that much volume at home.  Good luck with your choice.

Look at page 5-3 at this link:

http://www.fenderrhodes.com/org/manual/toc.html

I should have asked about corrosion on the tines as well.  I'm thinking of using rust remover and then Johnson's wax on the bars or the tines or both, if replating is only for cosmetic reasons.  Thanks for responding.

This is my second Rhodes.  My first was a Suitcase 88 I bought new in 1976.

Hi,

I recently bought a 1972 Mk I 73.  The tone bars and tines are covered in corrosion and look terrible.  The sound is pretty good though.  Are there aural advantages to replating tone bars or is it just for looks?  Thanks,

Mike Ledbetter

I just got some Live Wire cables from Musician's Friend.  Excellent sound and guaranteed "for life."

http://www.musiciansfriend.com/accessories/live-wire-advantage-series-1-4-straight-instrument-cable

Many thanks.  I was real happy to find this forum after I bought this "mint condition" Mark II with damper, key stick, escapement, and key level problems.  Nice pre amp and tone, though.

This is my first post.  I had a 1976 Suitcase 88 until I sold it to buy a D50 in 1986.  Stupid, I know.  I just bought a 1974 Stage Piano 73.  Is it worthwhile to rearrange the felts to level the keys, or are the paper shims the best way to go?  Many thanks.