Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.


Messages - cinnanon

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 20
1
The Wurlitzer Electric Piano / Re: Wurlitzer 200A - 3D model
« on: March 23, 2020, 06:17:25 PM »
Oh sorry I’ll look for the message.

2
The Wurlitzer Electric Piano / Re: Lubricating Action on 200
« on: March 08, 2020, 06:48:35 AM »
That’s odd that some felts are affected while others are not. If I saw that, I’d still lube everything for good measure. The acid test is to release the damper on a note and then play it. If it doesn’t return after a soft keystroke and soft release, then the action centers will need lubed.

3
The Wurlitzer Electric Piano / Re: Lubricating Action on 200
« on: March 06, 2020, 04:25:47 PM »
Yes I’m referring to lubing the action centers. The hardest part about removing the action are the damper arm grommets. Doing this makes everything much more accessible.

4
The Wurlitzer Electric Piano / Re: Lubricating Action on 200
« on: March 04, 2020, 10:49:05 PM »
I use those needle medical syringes like the ones used for giving shots. Pin point accuracy and reduced waste. I take the dampers off, harps off, then the rest of the action off in one piece (5 screws fasten it to the base and two screws hold it to the bracket in the back. From there it’s easy peezy.

5
The Wurlitzer Electric Piano / Re: 200 Speaker Glue?
« on: February 23, 2020, 08:43:55 AM »
I would

6
The Wurlitzer Electric Piano / Re: 200 Speaker Glue?
« on: February 21, 2020, 04:39:35 PM »
Two bolts hold the speaker to the rail. They used silicone to dampen vibration in between the speaker and the mounting plates. . Is this what you mean?

7
The Wurlitzer Electric Piano / Re: 200 Speakers - How to silence
« on: February 06, 2020, 08:56:40 PM »
You can 100% plug a dummy plug into the headphone jack to safely disable the speakers with nothing on the other end. Just put an 1/8” female to 1/4” male adapter plug in there. There’s an 8 ohm 5 watt resistor that becomes “in-circuit” when anything is plugged in. Check if that resistor is still there though. I have seen it removed on rare rare occasions. It will look like a rectangular block almost an inch long.

8
The Wurlitzer Electric Piano / Re: Dating a Wurlitzer
« on: January 21, 2020, 05:31:32 PM »
I think therein lies the confusion. You should have received some narrower damper felts for the higher notes. The website states Mid Felt: Keys 1-46, Treble Felt: Keys 47-55

What did you receive (or not receive) exactly?

9
The Wurlitzer Electric Piano / Re: Wurlitzer 200 Dull Reed issue SOLVED!
« on: January 06, 2020, 03:24:32 AM »
Great details, but I think you’ve mistaken what you were actually doing (no offense!). You’ve basically “un-torqued” the reedbar. Though this does change the height of the reed bar, more importantly you’ve relieved any stress the screws/brackets put on the reedbar. It’s one of the hardest things to track down. Usually you fix certain notes, only to have another area become plagued with dullness.

10
The Wurlitzer Electric Piano / Re: Vibrato Knob
« on: January 06, 2020, 03:09:02 AM »
It should control the depth, but gradually. Sounds like you have the wrong taper pot in there with the Warneck amp.

11
The Wurlitzer Electric Piano / Re: 206a - no sound
« on: October 21, 2019, 10:47:27 PM »
Check if you have signal through the aux out first. That signal is tapped before the power amp section (where you’re hearing the whoofing noise). Also, does the noise get louder and softer with the volume knob?

12
The Wurlitzer Electric Piano / Re: Wurli sustain pedal issue
« on: October 18, 2019, 09:02:47 AM »
Do you have a grounding wire that connects the damper mechanism to the reedbar? It snakes through the middle.

13
How cool is that polisher! I wonder how it does on the oblong front rail pins.  Seems like they would tear it up?

As for reporting to VV, I have not. It states on their website that they are 1" springs. I bought these a year or two ago and don't know what the description said at the time. I know 1" springs will fit and have some coming today actually. I just don't know if they will buckle due to being too long.

14
I did try their jack springs... unfortunately they are too big as well. As for that tool, that is quite interesting... do you have to use a polishing compound of some sort??

15
I looked into the Vandaking springs already (the shorter spinet ones that are 25/32" long) and they won't work. The diameter at the bottom of the coil is .230" whereas the bore on the wurlitzer whip is ~.210". I really don't feel like removing the fly and boring the hole larger but may have to. The 1" springs have a .200" coil diameter at the bottom which would fit, but the spring would probably buckle. I used the 8:1 solution on the center pin a couple times and it is definitely free. I shoved a new spring in there even though it didn't fit and it fixed my issue.

As for the rail pins, Vandakings aren't the right size either. Wurlitzers are .137" wide and 1-3/8" long.

16
The Wurlitzer Electric Piano / Wurlitzer Jack Springs and Front Rail Pins
« on: October 09, 2019, 07:20:13 PM »
Anyone have a source where I can get these items for a Wurlitzer EP (200 series)? I have some weak jack springs and rusty front rail pins.

17
I got mine from there as well. I think the next thing to check is your bank account to see if you have enough money to buy a Warneck amp. Honestly I don’t know what to check. I guess you could make one of those headphone circuit testers to trace the signal path.

18
I did it once, same thing. No vibrato. I said the hell with it and went Retrolinear and haven’t looked back.

19
Hi all, I have a December 1969 Piano bass (sparkle top) that i'm working on. My circuit differs from that found above. Here is mine vs. the one above. I don't know what the difference in sound would be, or which is superior. Mine looks original too. Looks like the tone pot is wired the same just reversed, but the volume pot is slightly different (tapers are different too).


20
Interesting. Sounds bell like, like a Rhodes but those are obviously reeds.

21
this seems bogus

22
The Wurlitzer Electric Piano / Re: Lacking Sustain in the high end
« on: August 02, 2019, 11:38:45 PM »
And also that the reed bar mounting screws are not over tightened... there should be a little play around those spacers, just a tiny bit.

:::scratching my head:::

 ???

Can you elaborate?

23
There are instructions on VV's website, but you'll have to cross-reference the schematic for component values, etc. The LED LDR may be tough to source.

24
Whatever it was it didn’t last. I have yet to see an original faceplate that is still securely attached and not lifting somewhere. I use contact cement on new glues. Vintage vibes faceplates have 3M peel n stick type tape on the backs, Retrolinear’s must be glued.

25
The original nameplates look to have used an adhesive tape

26
Me and you both.... I can tell you they don’t exist. RadioShack at one time made some but they were 4 ohm not 16 ohm, so you’d have to wire them in series instead of parallel. That was decades ago. Save your time looking and just buy Ken rich or VV. Once in a blue moon someone lists them on the bay but they’re usually broken or sold “as-is”.  Oh, and the size is 4x8

27
If clamping it does bring sustain back, and you don’t want to weld it, you could drill some through holes on either side of the broken rib (in between reeds of course) and put some all-thread through those holes with nuts on the end to merge it back together. I bet 8-32 all thread would be good enough. I have no other ideas on how to do it.

28
If you C-clamp it does sustain restore?

29
See the block on the left that the amp rail mounts to?  On 200’s and 200A’s it is two smaller blocks and the output plate hangs off the amp rail into a pocket.

30
The Wurlitzer Electric Piano / Re: Ultrasonic cleaning of reeds
« on: March 16, 2019, 03:00:49 AM »
I have some sort of residue on the reedbar around some of the bolts and some reeds. Looks like someone wiped oil on the whole things at one point also. I’m probably better off taking all the reeds off and running them through the sonics that way. I think the entire reedbar assembly would attenuate too much. Plus the sonic would have to be large.

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 20