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Messages - daswans

Pages: [1] 2
1
Other Keyboards & Software Synths / Anybody got any CP-70 parts?
« on: June 14, 2011, 04:09:03 PM »
I just got a CP-70 and am looking for a few pieces. Namely, the lids to the travel cases, leg support brackets, pedal chains, and the rear Yamaha logo. If anybody knows of, or has a parts piano lying around, drop me a line. Thanks!

-Dan

2
This looks great. I'd love to do this with my 206A. Any chance of giving us a step-by-step of the procedure?

3
I've never heard of or seen a 106. It looks very cute.

I have three Wurlis: A 145 tube, 206A, and 146B.

4
Electro Harmonic Stereo Pulsar. Works perfectly and can be bought at Sam Ash or Guitar Center for about $75. One of my favorite effects.

http://www.samash.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_Stereo%20Pulsar%20Vibrato%20Pedal_-1_10052_10002_-49959724_cmCategorySA-10001

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The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / Refinishing a chrome namerail?
« on: December 29, 2008, 05:37:04 PM »
About the hole. Since chroming is an electrical process, the extra hole that was drilled in the name rail needs to be filled in with metal. As I mentioned in my previous response, they usually use brass, as it's soft, maliable and bonds well with steel, when filling in gouges, holes, and deep scratches on bumpers.

There can be no filler or putty (Bondo) on the piece at all since it won't receive the electrical charge that the metal needs to bond the chrome to the piece.

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The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / Refinishing a chrome namerail?
« on: December 29, 2008, 01:28:56 PM »
An automotive chrome shop could do it. But it's very expensive. Much cheaper if you have a buddy whose having the chrome on his '57 Chevy redone. Then just throw the namerail in with it. As for the hole, a chrome shop would just fill that with brass and smooth it out. You'd never know it was there.

As for the silk screening, you could buy some press type from an art supply store. It's like wax paper with a bunch of little letters on it. You apply by pressing it against a surface and rubbing a flat edge against the back. It transfers the letters to the surface kind of like an iron on but without the heat. It's available in many different fonts. Find a matching font and go crazy. If you screw up, just scratch it off and try again. Apply a thin clear coat when you're done to avoid rubbing it off.

Good luck!

7
The Wurlitzer Electric Piano / How much is too much to pay for a Wurli 145?
« on: December 29, 2008, 08:44:50 AM »
I paid $200 for my 145 from a professional blues player in my neighborhood. And $20 for my 206A from a garage sale.

The 145 has a bit of a hum, but it absolutely eats the 206A for lunch. The 145 is the holy grail of Wurlitzers, IMO. My 145 looks like hell. It was painted black and the paint is chipping off. It spent a lot of years as a road piano in and out of blues clubs by someone who could actually play it. I'm a ddrummer and keyboard players come over to jam, I turn on the Wurli and have them play it. They always look at me with a snicker and a sneer, and ask me what the hell that thing is? After about 2 minutes, I can't pull them away from it. They always leave asking me a million questions about it and how they can get one. It sounds perfect in any situation and, unlike anything digital, holds it's own against guitars, basses and drums, and makes everything sound better. The action is like butter.The 145 is pure magic. The 206A is a toy in comparison.

I won't tell you that that repair guy is offering you a deal by any means, but his piano seems like the real deal. The 145 isn't for sissies. Someone who's played the different models will know the difference. How much is that difference worth to you? How serious are you about tone? Will you keep it for another 40 years?

Personally, I'd rather have the piano than the money.

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Amps, Effects & Recording Techniques / HELP! which EHX Smallstone?
« on: July 11, 2008, 09:49:47 AM »
Keep in mind, that if you use a Harmonic Clarifier or other preamp, certain phasers will distort. Such is the case with my Rhodes. I have a Small Stone, Phase 90, and Phase 90 '74 reissue. However, the only phaser that mates well with the HC, is a Behringer PH9. It's their Phase 90 knockoff. It sounds absolutely fantastic and has no distortion. But it is a Behringer, which means people won't think you're as cool as you think you are. Either that, or you'll have to paint it bright orange!

9
For home use and $150 to spend:

- Behringer direct box with headphone output (SansAmp clone. Can also be used as a preamp into any amplifyer or PA). $30
- Behringer PH9 phaser (Quite decent MXR clone). $30
- Behringer TP300 Stereo Tremolo/Pan (EHX Stereo Pulsar clone). $30
_Behringer Headphone Amp. $30
- Comfortable pair of headphones. $20-$50

Any leftover cash can be spent on burritos!

10
The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / Whats up with this Rhodes?
« on: May 13, 2008, 09:01:20 AM »
It looks pretty cool. As for the electronics, I would just replace them with a Major Key Harmonic Clarifier. As for the 2 inputes (outputs), if it's like my '76, the previous owner split the keyboard into bass and lead sections and wired all the leads of the pickups together. The signal was weak and the tone horrible. Once I undid all of that, it sounded strong. Then I dropped in the Harmonic Clarifier and it sings.

If the ouput is weak, the action will feel worse than it actually is. If the electronics are wired properly (which is incredibly easy to do by referencing the manual), and the output hot enough, a seemingly spongy action will play like butter. Also, like anything old, the more you use it, the better it will sound and the more the action will loosen up.

The price seems fair to me. Any piano you buy will be 30 years old and have a few issues. However, all issues are easily worked thru with a little patience and very little money. If I was shopping for a Rhodes, the one in that ebay listing is as good as any IMO.

Also, these things aren't getting cheaper. You'll never lose money on a Rhodes. The cat's out of the bag on vintage instruments. Buy now with confidence. Good luck!

11
The Wurlitzer Electric Piano / I need some opinions...
« on: April 21, 2008, 02:48:30 PM »
Do it.

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The Wurlitzer Electric Piano / Who's got my Wurli Sustain Pedal?
« on: January 03, 2008, 10:35:11 PM »
Or you can just spend the $225 for a quality reproduction pedal and have a complete, intact, working Wurlitzer for $625 total. Hardly a waste of money and well within the bounds of what it's worth.

13
Other Keyboards & Software Synths / Value of Hammond M3
« on: December 05, 2007, 02:50:41 PM »
I have an M3 that I paid $50 for a couple years ago at an estate sale. It's cool but I don't use it much. I'll be moving over to my parent's house in the coming weeks (need a play area for the kids downstairs). M3 are much more usable with either a Leslie or Motion Sound. I have a Motion Sound Pro 3t. It works well, but sure is a lot of stuff. Organ seems to be a completely different instrument that I don't find terribly intuative. Guys who can play it well, sound great. I sound like poo.

14
I've run my Rhodes into my SCI Pro-One with interesting results.

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The Wurlitzer Electric Piano / Old Wurlitzer
« on: September 04, 2007, 09:42:47 AM »
Quote from: "hichakhok"
Actually this may be heresy but i prefer using the wurli for my trio than the rhodes

The wooden box resonates witch feeds back into the pickups. Plastic just does not ring like wood.


The 145 just stakes it's territory in a band setting and never gets washed out by the bass and drums the way a Rhodes does. It's so expressive, barky, meaty, and full. It's definately the best version of a truely great line electric pianos.

16
The Wurlitzer Electric Piano / Old Wurlitzer
« on: August 16, 2007, 01:48:53 PM »
I've got a 145 with the tube amp and tremelo and it kills the 200/200A pianos tonewise (I also have a 206A). It also uses the later 200 action. Kind of a best of both worlds: playbility/stability of the later painos but with the rich tone of the early ones that only tubes will give you. The only downside is that the 145 is about double the weight of the 200, which is only an issue if you plan on moving it a lot. Although much less sexy visually than the 200, the 145 is hands down the best Wulitzer IMO.

Regardless, if the wooden Wulitzer is within your budget and works, grab it. All of them have "that sound."

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The Wurlitzer Electric Piano / Restoring an old tube Wurly
« on: June 18, 2007, 01:41:47 PM »
I can't help at all, but I have a 145 and think it's awesome. Everybody wants the 200 model but the 145 has the same action and a better amp. Comparing my 145 to the 206A, the 145 eats it's lunch. My amp is noisy too but still playable. I'll probably have it recapped as soon as I find a good repair guy.

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The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / Finally set up my Rhodes again
« on: January 17, 2007, 10:26:58 AM »
Quote from: "keysandslots"
I've always wanted that Joe Sample bell-like tone.  This site has pieces of the songs, check out Scratch and So Far Away
Randy


My favorite Joe Sample playing is on Michael Franks' albums, "The Art of Tea" and "Sleeping Gypsy". His Rhodes sound and playing are delicious!

Glad to hear your Rhodes is back up and running. I had to put mine back in the closet due to some room consolodation to make room for baby no. 2 in May.

19
A Sequential Circuits Pro-One is an analogue mono synth like a Minimoog. It basically a monophonic Prophet 5. And it looks really cool on top of a Rhodes!

http://www.synthmuseum.com/sequ/seqproone01.html

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I got a Wurlitzer 206A at a garage sale this summer for $20. Usually I miss the big deals. I wish it was 1990 again so I could stock up on old keyboards with my leftover pocket change. I was laughed at for overpaying for my 1976 Stage 73 Mark I in about '93 for $160. My Pro-One cost me $140 in '91 or so.

21
It doesn't look right to me. They should be wired in groups of 6, offset by 3 top to bottom. Hard to explain. Study the diagram more closely and follow it. It works.

22
To me, authentic is a stage piano thru a Phaser. I use a MXR Phase 90 (with R28 mod) thru my Jazz Chorus 77 amp and have no complaints. It is THE 70's sound. I find the stereo vibrato suitcase sound a bit loungy for my tastes. The signature sound is the phaser. You could probably pick up a Behringer Phaser for $20 new that would probably do the trick if you're strapped for cash. The important thing is to get that swoosh (preferably thru an analogue pedal).

Stay away from digital modelers that make a million different sounds that only succeed in destrying your tone. Get one good analogue effect and use it right.

23
The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / I have a Rhodes and a minimoog
« on: April 10, 2006, 10:20:31 AM »
Currently my favorite companion on top of the Rhodes is an Arp Explorer 1 monophonic from '76. I'm running it thru a delay and have the Rhodes thru a modified MXR Phase 90. The sound is absolute perfection.

I've also been playing along to my Roland CR-78 rhythm machine. Other boards I've stacked on top of the Rhodes are:

Sequential Circuits Pro-One
Moog Opus III
Korg ES-50
Korg Poly 800
Ensoniq Fizmo
Oberheim OB-12

I prefer keeping everything analogue. The Arp is really simple although limited by only having one oscillator. I find it easy to get great classic tones and sound effects. Just yesterday I was playing some ELO and it sounded great!

24
Phase 90 for me. I bought one last week and can't stop playing. However, if you get a new one, you need to perform a couple modifications to get it to sound it's best. In it's current stock form, there's a mid sweep distortion, clipping and increased gain that won't allow you to drive it hard. The mod involves removing a resistor and 2 capacitors (R-28, C11 & C-12). After modification, the Phase 90 is smooth, warm and tasty with no clipping, distortion, breakup or added gain. It sounds exactly like Steely Dan, 10cc, Bee Gees, Billy Joel, etc. Probably the single most classic Rhodes sound. Absolutely addicting.

25
Some guys have all the luck. She's a beaut!

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Just get a 9 volt wall wart from Radio Shack. Problem solved. I have the MKHC and love it. The original electronics are pooey to say the least. The whole thing installs in about 3 minutes and can be put back to stock in 3 minutes if you want to (I doubt you would). IMO, it's a no brainer. A wall wart will probably run you 10-15 bucks. If you want the option of getting the pure tone, you can always go off the harp with an RCA cable when the mood hits you (It hasn't hit me yet. I like the MKHC).

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The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / Wow! And thanks!
« on: February 27, 2006, 09:16:45 AM »
This forum and fenderrhoses.com are great and saved my life with my Rhodes. About 10 years ago, I paid some knucklehead $150 to tune and setup my piano. It came back so crummy that it went right into the closet until I could afford to have it done well. Since that time, the intenet evolved and I stumbled on these forums a few weeks ago. After careful reading and figuring I had nothing to lose, My Rhodes is set up and sounding better than ever. I adjusted some tines, repaired a couple pickups, replaced some grommets, rewired the pickups to stock configuration, polished the keytops, replaced the electronics with a MKHC, and a few other odds and ends and turns of the screwdriver. I still have things to do (replacing all grommets, fine tuning, silicone of pedestal, etc.). Now I am fearless to work on it myself. So far there's nothing that can't be fixed with a little thought and a screwdriver and pliers.

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The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / Electrics Problems on Stage 73
« on: February 27, 2006, 09:04:30 AM »
The previous owner of my Rhodes screwed up all the electronics. He divided the keyboard into upper and lower sections with 2 inputs. Rather than try to figure out how to get all the old stuff to work properly (which from what I've heard, isn't exactly optimal anyway), I replaced it all with the Major Key Harmonic Clarifier about a week ago. I can truely say, it's a hundred times better. In addition to the much needed extra gain, I can dial in  basically any sound from mellow to barky, bassy to bright. I have the old parts in a shoe box for if I ever want to mess with them. I don't think I ever will.

I'd say get the MKHC. Especially for a studio set up. The $130 you spend for the added versatility and line level gain will pay for itself. I only bought the MKHC because it was the cheapest all-in-one solution for my electronics dilema. Aside from the corny 80's style knobs it came with, (I will be replacing when I find some suitable vintage style knobs), I have no regrets and feel  it's well worth it IMO. Good luck!

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Parts, Service, Maintenance & Repairs / wiring pickups
« on: February 17, 2006, 01:08:11 PM »
You're welcome. Glad I could help. :D

30
I use a Roland Jazz Chorus-77 with 2x10" speakers. The chorus sounds very sweet with the Rhodes. I should probably have the 120 for the 2x12's but I don't and seeing as I only play at home, I'm not likely to upgrade any time soon (new baby).

Last weekend, I ran the Rhodes into my Motion Sound Pro 3T rotating horn with the bass section routed to the JC and was blown away. The slow doppler swoosh of the horn and the slow pulsating of the low end gave the piano a life I'd never heard. Plus by overdriving the 3T's 12AX7, I got a really nice Hammond-like bark or growl when playing harder. The more I use the Motion Sound, the more I'm convinced of it's essentialness for any keyborad. Even my sterile digital boards are given some fat and motion and really come to life. It's definately an option worth pursuing if you have a Rhodes or just like good sound.

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