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Scroll to the bottom of the Reverb home page and look for Price Guide under the Explore category.  Click on Price Guide and you should be able to type in a specific piece of gear and get some info, including asking price and final sale price.  I tried Wurlitzer 200 and got four different results based on color.  Unfortunately they don't let you look at the original listings like ebay, so it is hard to gauge condition based on just the final selling price.  BTW, I'm using Chrome on an older Mac. 

I've had great luck selling on Reverb, but I try to price things reasonably.  Selling fees are smaller than ebay, and for the most part the clientele is much more educated about what they are buying.  I've had to use their customer service a few times, and it has always been quick, professional and their policies make sense.  Resolutions take minutes.  I've had ebay deals that took days to resolve. 

Reverb does have a way to track actual selling prices, but I don't remember how to access it.  I think you need to look up a specific piece of gear and then you are able to access some info showing asking price vs. actual sold price.  In fact, you might even need to be looking at an actual listing and the "price guide" is on a link to the left of the listing.

I think the unrealistic prices for some things are just part of the deal.  People have cool stuff, and they like for others to know about it.  They also like to think their stuff is worth a lot.  Kind of an ego stroke, I guess.  There is a store about fifty miles from me that has had outrageous prices on vintage gear for as long as I've been buying and selling (over 20 years).  Most of those pieces haven't turned over for years.  In fact, this guy continues to raise prices for plum pieces. It is pretty clear he just wants to display his collection and show off his expensive vintage gear.  It used to really bug me, but after awhile this guy just became a punchline to the local gear buying community.  And who knows?  Maybe he gets lucky and sells something once and awhile.  I haven't been to his shop for quite some time, but occasionally I'll see a craigslist ad where he is trying to sell stuff at outlandish prices. 

I have a 720A that I found a thrift store years ago.  Like Steve said, it is a home model, and not suitable for gigging unless you are a rock star and can afford roadies.  I think the sound is deeper and richer than a 200.  For awhile I had both in the same room, so it was easy to compare.  The tremolo in particular seems different from a 200...somehow more 3-D.  That could be due to the larger 12" speaker.  I did feel like the 200 "barked" more, and at times cut through a rock band mix a little better. 

I attempted to do some light repair work, but ultimately took it to Chicago Electric Piano for a tune-up.  I decided the 720 is a keeper, and I wanted to someone with a lot of experience to really dial it in.  I'm hoping to pick it up in a few weeks. 

If you can pick up a 720 for a reasonable price, I think they are well worth owning. 

To the OP:  I have an original 120 manual.  It was given to me by mistake.  I bought a 112 from the local Music Go Round, and I was hoping that the original owner might have the old pedal stored away somewhere.  The owner didn't but she mailed them the manual she received with the piano.  I'm just north of you in Nebraska.  I'd mail it to for the cost of postage. 

Yeah.  I'd leave it as-is.  I think it has that "so-ugly-it's-cool" vibe.  Especially since it is in such good shape.  Good score. 

Yeah.  After I posted, I found this thread on the forum.  I think I'll pass.  I really need to spend money on parts for my Wurly 112.  Thanks for the heads-up on the tines.  I wouldn't have thought of that.

http://lincoln.craigslist.org/msg/5307804767.html

$399.  I'd probably jump on it, but I have two Wurlitzers and a beautiful Mark II Stage 73 Rhodes already.  Both the Wurlies need lots of love.  I've got a Hammond M3 that needs love too.  I'm not sure I want another project.  What say ye, EP forum users?

Awesome gig.  Sounds like a good time.

I'd ask before I took pictures.  I had a friend doing load-in/lights for a show and he took pics of the guitarist's rig.  Tour manager flipped out.  Of course, it was Morrissey, so the whole gig was fairly ridiculous. Anyway, better to ask than not.  Some musicians are cool about, other not so much.

Thanks for the feedback, Max.  I thought about consulting Century Mallet in Chicago about tuning.  My wife is a Chicago girl, though we rarely make it back to her hometown.  Some of the notes on this one are slightly sharp.  If your contact in Chicago is different, I'd love to hear it.  I can make Chicago in about 8 hours.  I've though about bringing a Deagan vibraphone I have from my grandfather to Century for restoration.  He bought it in new in 1955. 

My 3 octave celeste seems to have settled in nicely.  I love it.  One of the bands I'm in is part of a Lou Reed tribute show in town.  We're doing Femme Fatale and Pale Blue Eyes.  I normally play guitar, but I'm just gonna bust out the celeste for both songs. 

The Musser Ampli-Celeste sounds awesome and appropriately Wilco-esque.  One my favorite bands. 

Congrats on a cool find.  I've a 720A that looks somewhat similar.  I agree with Steve.  The amp (especially caps) are something an expert should handle.  There are voltages in there big enough to cause serious harm, even when the instrument is unplugged and turned off.  I definitely would not pry any capacitors off.  Changing tubes and soldering pots is about the extent of my knowledge.  I take everything else to a guitar amp guy. 

The innards will need some adjustment.  There are lots of resources, and I've found this forum to be an invaluable asset.  Don't be afraid to pop the top off and poke around.  Nothing mechanical in there can kill you.  Steve sells a tool on ebay that is made to adjust the let-off.  Otherwise, your garden variety tools should handle most jobs.

I added some pics I took over the weekend of my four octave celeste.  I'll probably need to get better pics of the action, but I was just trying to get a few "before" pics.  I spent about three hours just cleaning the grime and dust off, and shooting compressed air on the resonator bars to get crud out.  Looks like a mouse may have taken up residence at one point.  Right now, some of the notes are a little clunky, and the sustain pedal really isn't usable at this point.  It is very noisy. 

The other thing I'm contemplating is if I should attempt to restore the casing.  Normally, I'm someone who prefers the original finish, but this instrument is really beat up.  The paint is cracked, chipped and missing in several places.  The veneer is missing chunks on the sides.  There is supposed to be another screen on the front (the back screen, or grill cloth is still intact).  The rounded metal decorative pieces have popped out of the wood because the wood is missing.  The good news is the keys are in pretty good shape, and the resonator bars ring out for the most part.  There are two or three that are missing felts, but they still partially resonate. 

Opinions and advice are encouraged.  Here is the link to the pics:  https://www.flickr.com/photos/94175685@N05/albums/72157659828326365

Thanks, Steve.  I'm going to fetch my second celeste this weekend, so I probably won't get to pics for a week or two.  I mostly fiddle around with my repairs on the weekends.  If I can find some internal pics online, I will post the pics or links. 

Haha.  Yeah.  Pretty cool.  I highly recommend getting one, if possible.  I actually sold a fair amount of stuff to get the three octave model, and then the four octave model fell in my lap a few days later.  Both will need work.  I'm driving about eight hours one way to fetch the four octave this weekend.

I've been looking for a celesta for a long time.  As luck would have it, two landed in my lap in less than a week.  I'm now the owner of a 3 octave Jenco celestette AND a 4 octave Jenco celeste.  The 3 octave arrived today.  It has the clunky charm these are notorious for.  The keys are uneven.  They make sound, though some keys are definitely louder than others.  I've noticed that some keys don't return very quickly at all. 

Anyone have any experience working on these?  I've lubed the action centers on a coupla Wurlitzer EPs.  Are Wurlitzers and celestes even close?  This forum has been a great resource for me.  I don't want to go to the well too often, but you guys have always been great.  Thanks in advance for any advice or resources you may have.

Crazy!  I'm always surprised when I see a classic piece of gear go for much less than it should, though I shouldn't be.  Just last week a friend in town emailed me to ask what I would pay for a Roland Jupiter 8.  I said I couldn't afford it.  He told me one of his pals who lives in the sticks was gonna bid on one at auction.  The guy got it (and a crappy Gibson bass) for $350.  If you know anything about the Jupiter, you know that even if it was broken it would bring at least $2k-$3k.  Working would be at least $5k.  That stuff is still out there.  Just gotta keep your eyes open.

RE:  Archived solutions.  Thanks!

Good advice, Alen.  I'm taking stock of what I think I need, and then I'll probably shoot one or all of those folks an email.  I know for sure I need one reed and the pedal assembly (including the side mount thing).  I'm gonna put the keys back in today and see where I stand.  I took them all last night and vacuumed the key bed and scrubbed the they keys off as best I could.  In addition to writing the names of the notes on the keys with ballpoint pen, someone used masking tape to further label the keys...I think I'm dealing with vintage ink and adhesive, haha.  Except for the noisy amp, this piano actually sounded pretty decent. 

Haha.  Good advice.  I hate the thought of parting it out...I also don't really have room for any more keyboards.  This was a deal that was too good to pass up.  I should have done my research on that sustain pedal, though.  I assumed VV made a replacement.  My bad...

Yeah.  I figured as much.  I was hoping for a DIY solution.  I guess I can put out an APB for a pedal and see what happens.

Hard to know what to do with this one.  One reed is broken, and someone wrote the names of the notes on the keys with ballpoint pen.  I was able to get some of the ink off with 99% alcohol, but the writing is still visible, though faint.  The casing is in pretty ok shape, and it sounds pretty good, except for a noisy amp.  I'd hate to part it out.  But parts are hard to come, and it looks like it is a pain to work on.

I picked up a Wurlitzer 112 today.  It needs a side mounted sustain pedal.  Looks like the Vintage Vibe pedal works for every piano EXCEPT the 112 side mounted model.  Any other options?  Am I screwed?  Thanks for any info.

Anybody on this board happen to make it?  It really wasn't too far from KC.  Lots of cool stuff.  I went to an auction like this last summer and scored a Phase 90 MXR pedal.  First year of production.  All of the obvious vintage stuff sold for big $$$, but there some of the obscure stuff went cheap.  A friend bought a pedal steel for $50.  You never know.

I know celestas and Dulcitones are not electric pianos, but I figured there might be some folks who are interested in both.  I am.  If you have a celesta or Dulcitone for sale, I'm in the market.  Please message me via this forum.  Thx.  UPDATE:  I'm no longer in need of a celesta.  A Dulcitone would be cool, though.  Just in case.

I got the protek from ebay seller howardpianoind. 

Sweet!  Just got my Protek in the mail today.  Thanks.

Is this "guy" located in Schenectady NY?

Thanks for the good info, guys.  I would not have thought about being careful with a vacuum, especially.  I'll look for a syringe or bottle/needle combo as well.  I used to work for a guy who would used a syringe to squirt wood glue into hard to reach places, especially under veneer that had peeled up. 

Steve, I did find a stamped date under the keys.  May 22, 1971.  This piano is almost as old as I am. 

I'll need to do some more research on adjusting the let off.  I've heard that term bandied about, just need to get my head around it. 

Awesome.  Thanks, Steve.  Just pulled the trigger on some Protek.  I checked with my buddy, and he said they keyboard was stored in an un-airconditioned space for many years.  Our part of the world gets mighty humid in the summer, so I'm sure that is part of the problem.  I'll let it settle in for a few days before I get crazy with any sort of pliers.  I do think the whip assemblies will probably need some love, but I'll wait until this thing airs out.  I found another thread from about 5 years ago that addresses some of these issues as well.  This forum is a great resource.

Hi guys.  A friend dropped off a Wurly 200 for me to check out.  He hasn't played it in years because of poor action and sticky keys.  The good news is the electronics work fine.  I told him I would dig in and see what I could do.  I might be in over my head, but... 

I watched the Vintage Vibe video on "sluggish action."  I think I'll need to get some of the Naptha/silicon solution and tear into this thing and lube all of the whip assemblies.  I took the lid off and can see that some of the hammers dont' fall back completely.  Before I do that, I think some of the keys need easing.  I don't have the tool.  Are needle nose pliers and a gentle touch sufficient?  Or do I need the tool?  Also, is it advisable to lube the center posts that hold each key in place?  I have pulled the keys up, and quite a few will not fall back into place.  If they can be lubed, is the same Naptha/silicon lubricant the way to go?  I thought I read somewhere that there was a better lubricant, but I'm not sure.  Protek?  Thanks for any advice. 

In reply to your question, Paleophone, this is indeed a tube amp model.  The power tubes are NOT 6v6s, but something weird.  7868, I think.  It is a great piece. 

I didn't get a refund.  I've been mighty busy at work (I teach Jr High English) and my dad has been in and out of the hospital, and I just haven't had the time to settle down and call someone.  I was hoping I could get someone to email back, but no luck.  Maybe I can find an hour this week.

You were right about that pot, Steve.  Thanks again.  The only thing I need to fix is a squeak in the sustain pedal.  I wouldn't worry about it, but the speaker on this model sits right over the top of the speaker, and when it comes time to do some recording work I'm pretty sure the mic will pick up that squeak.  I'll tackle it another weekend. 

I love the way this thing sounds.  I've got a 200, and it barks.  The 720A has a deeper, rounder tone.  Not as mid-range bite as the 200.  They complement each other well. 

Hey guys.  Just wanted to update this thread.  I initially ordered vibrato and volume pots from Vintage Vibe.  They sent me the wrong ones.  When I emailed them back, I got radio silence.  So, I reached out to Morelock's.  I emailed, and Janice was nice enough to call be back, take my order over the phone and ship the vibrato pot.  They are all out of volume pots for the model I have.  I installed it this weekend, and it works and sounds great.  Huzzah for Janice and Morelock's. 

I still had a noticeable ground hum.  I figured I would try a ground lift plug (you know, the kind you buy at the hardware store for fifty cents) before I called in my amp guy.  The plug solved my ground hum problem.  The Wurlitzer sounds great.  I love it.  Thanks for your help.

Thanks for the input.  I certainly don't want to screw around with the wrong stuff.  I'll try Janice, and if I don't have any luck I'll go with Vintage Vibe.  I'm super stoked to get this guy rolling.  Even with a little hum and an on again/off again tremolo this piano has a great swampy vibe and feel. 

Wow.  Just checked out the price for pots for a 145 on Vintage Vibe.  I kinda thought a pot was a pot, as long as the values were the same. Any reason they want $18+ for a Wurly pot?  Do I need something special? 

Awesome! Thanks for the reply.  Kinda figured that second jack was extra.  I'll get on that pot.

Hello, fellow EP enthusiasts.  I recently acquired a Wurlitzer 720A electric piano.  I believe these are the spinet version of a 145.  In any case, the tremolo started acting strange.  Here's the deal:  The volume and trem pots were scratchy, so I dis-assembled the piano and sprayed contact cleaner in both pots.  The term was fine, but after a few hours it feels like the pot is stuck, it doesn't turn all the way, and the tremolo is intermittent.  If I lean on the knob, it works, but then there is no way to turn the tremolo off.  Did I screw it up by spraying cleaner in there?  Or do these just die on their own?  I can replace the pot, but I didn't know if I needed anything special. 

I'm also wondering about a ground hum.  It isn't too bad, but I'm wondering if I have my guitar amp guy re-cap the amp and add a three prong power cord if that will help.  I think this EP sat in someone's house for the last 50 years or so.  The cabinet is a little rough, but when I opened up the back it was fairly clean, except for some house dust in the bottom and on the amp, tubes, etc.   

Finally, there is a 1/4" jack output underneath the keyboard.  There is also a speaker out on the back of the amp section.  The amp section output looks factory stock, the one underneath the keyboard looks, uh, less stock.  Does anyone know if the factory would have put two different outputs on there? 

Thanks for any info.