Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.


Messages - Sisboombah

Pages: [1]
1
The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / Re: Tine issues
« on: January 10, 2019, 02:19:34 AM »
At the risk of “necroposting”, I thought it prudent to respond to an already established thread rather than starting a new one.

Long story short, I’ve encountered the same issue restoring a ‘77 Mark I Stage 73. All the tines are too short, but fortunately it came with suitable replacements so I can add the long ones at the bottom and shift the tines up a note or two, cutting and filing to spec.  Getting the “new” tines to mate parallel to the tonebar has been tricky, as the old indentations want to seat themselves off-center.  Here’s the method I’ve come up with (photo below):

1) Using a vise and a large smooth-jawed crescent wrench, get the tonebar both straight with itself and twisted to perpendicular. There’s another thread about this. 
2) After cutting and filing the new tine to length, screw it into the tonebar just hand-tight.  You’ll see why.  Mainly just to reference it to the tonebar for the next step. 
3) Open the vise enough to fit the tonebar + tone generator/tine + a 10mm socket.  The 10mm socket is just big enough to surround the pan head of the tone generator mounting screw without pressing against it.  You don’t want to press the screw head itself, as you will booger up the threads.
4) Tighten the assembly down in the vise, making sure to line the tine up parallel with the tonebar.  Tighten it down good, thereby pressing the new generator’s ratcheted impressions into the tonebar.  Leave it in for a while, I say. 
5) Loosen the vise, take out the assembly, and now clamp the tone generator vertically in the vise with the tonebar above the vise clamp in order to tighten the screw with a 5/16” socket.  I’ve heard of using an impact driver, but I’ve had success ratcheting it in very tight by hand. I’d hate to shear the screw (which I’ve done and is not fun), but the connection seems to be tight and flush. I can’t even get a piece of paper between the tonebar and tone generator.  Maybe there is a torque setting someone knows for this?  Doing this by hand allows to manipulate the tonebar to stay parallel as you torque it down.  After unclamping, it stays perfectly parallel. 

This is what’s worked for me; I’m sure there are other ways. Hope it helps!


2
Hi all - first thing’s first - a huge Thank You to all on this forum who contribute.  The advice and experiences here are very helpful.

Keeping it short, I’m finally embarking on restoring as well/as much a 1977 MarkI 73 Stage. She’s in bad shape, somewhat playable, but way out of whack and in need of everything mechanically.  I’m going for the delux VV restoration pack (grommets, screws, dampers, hammer felt, probably graduated tips, maybe Miracle Mod - I play with a pretty heavy hand so I’ll try a few keys). The case lid and bottom shell are failing at the joints, have been reinforced with 1” alum angle, Tolex is gone on top and near gone on the bottom. 

So that’s the bad news; the good news is that though it’s about a D+ mechanically and cosmetically, all the parts are there and seem restorable. All the legs, braces, and even original pedal are there. There’s a goofy electronic mod (maybe a vibrato?) that seemed to be useful at one time, but has been mercifully euthanized.

In short, I’d like to start restoring the action outside the case if possible or advisable, as I’m pretty resolved to having to build a new enclosure. Until I get access to a shop, I’d like to have the project moving somewhat. Is it advisable to pull the keybed/action/harp out and work on it on a nice level workbench? Or is it necessary to have it in the enclosure?  And any advice for enclosure building would be great - I’ve seen some other threads covering this.

Many thanks!

Pages: [1]