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Messages - thetrufflehog

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Amps, Effects & Recording Techniques / Re: Peterson stereo pan pedal?
« on: July 12, 2019, 12:26:26 PM »
Hi! I have played a stage piano for years but have crazy suitcase envy and probably have some helpful advice. I also have had two different nord electros, so....
- I have an old speakeasy vintage stereo panner and preamp, I think it is supposed to be closer to the peterson system, but specific information about it is incredibly hard to find and they are out of production. It is fantastic, but unfortunately I have never even seen a picture of one online, let alone one for sale.
- For a while, my panner was not working properly, I used an EHX stereo pulsar. It takes a lot of tweaking because the settings are veyr sensitive, but you can get really damn close. This is a great and inexpensive way to get the stereo pan effect.
- A big part of the sound is the preamp and your amp setup...You can probably get pretty close with any panning pedal for the stereo effect, but you really need to have some sort of preamp and the right amp/speaker system. My motion sound KP200 gets me pretty close as far as the amp part goes, though something with 12 inch speakers would be best. When using the stereo pulsar I had used an EHX LPB1 pedal to boost the signal. I was never really satisfied with it, and could probably have done better with something else mroe suited to being a preamp. But it was cheap and got the Rhodes to an acceptable volume level.
- I'm not sure what the nord is trying to me it doesnt sound like either the Peterson or Janus. Hopefully the Nord Piano 4 lets you edit more parameters than my Electro 3 but the panner honestly isnt that great as is for me. It just sounds wrong at every setting. I love the Nord and it is the best to bring to rehearsals and smaller gigs, and is such a flexible board. Owning a real Rhodes makes me really notice the shortcomings of the Nord Rhodes sounds though, which really crop up on every different sample when you dig in. Something in the way it emulates the "bark" is really fake and thin. (Your audience will never notice though! Just my observation as a player and nitpicker).
- If you are using a Rhodes stage piano, you might like the Avion Studios Retro Flyer, but it isn't a pedal. It seems pretty slick. It replaces the namerail controls.
- Major Key makes (made?) a really nice looking preamp for stage pianos that had a stereo pan. Don't know what is going on with them or if it can be ordered right now. Their site seems to be down on all but the home page.

Just wanted to chime in on this topic. I have the Korg Arp Oddyssey (the "minikeys" one) and it fits *perfectly* on top of a MK2 lid. I mean so good like it was made to do so. The four rubber feet straddle the lid so that the whole keyboard bottom actually sits on the lid, but the feet just graze the front and back sides of the lid so the board doesnt slide around. And it's an Oddy so it is a great, versatile, and classic synth.

Its a mid 74 stage. I believe I bought the grommets from Avion studios, and I used the original screws. Tines are cranked on quite tight. As far as the springs I think theyre original. I have a tech here in Portland Oregon that does work when I can't/don't have time, and he thought the grommets were not as good as VV. Someday when I have the time and money, I'll do a re-grommet with the VV screw and grommet set at some point. Hammer tips with the Herbie offset too. For now I've gotten it quite playable, and again that scream on these few very high notes is not very noticeable when amplified.
Glad to hear there's someone else who has seen this before, and thanks for the advice. Just add yet another reason to do the grommets again and correctly. Though the job was a pain when I did it, at least this time around I know what I'm getting into.

Love your playing by the way, have since long before I joined this forum. I love your chopped gigging rhodes idea!

Parts, Service, Maintenance & Repairs / Re: my rhodes lack legs :(
« on: April 12, 2019, 01:26:07 PM »
Regarding crossbars, I see lots of people who don't use them, but I consider them essential (if using original style legs) for two reasons:
1) They stabalize the isntrument when you are rocking out...much more solid feeling. I can't stand wobble!
2) This for me is the big one, and one I learned relatively recently. When setting up the rhodes by yourself, you can screw the legs on while the rhodes is propped up on it's "back" (where the big logo is), then you can set it upright by using the rear two legs as a pivot. I would never do this without the support braces, but with them it is quite stable when doing this and I don't worry about damaging the joints where the legs screw in.

If I didnt have the original legs, I'd go for one of these if you can find it in Italy:

I have adjusted the voicing screws a lot on this piano over the course of my ownership, including recently, with no changes to this issue. I replaced the grommets on most of the piano, but I will double check because some seemed ok and I didnt switch them out. I'm not totally happy with the grommets I chose, and that could certainly be a factor for this issue. I will check to see the tines are screwed tightly to the tone bar, though as far as I know none of the tines have been ever been removed, replaced, or adjusted.
Thanks for the advice!

Parts, Service, Maintenance & Repairs / Rhodes upper octave "scream"
« on: March 19, 2019, 11:54:05 AM »
I've looked around for a while and cannot find anything on this issue I'm having with a few notes in the upper octave of my Rhodes!
Pehaps I am not naming the issue right, but the best way I can describe it is that I have a few notes in the top octave that have a sort of "scream" or "gargle" - basically it's a really fast beating. The sound is vastly more prominent when a note is struck acoustically without the piano plugged into an amplifier, but it does still create some unpleasant overtones when amplified, and it makes tuning these few notes much harder.

My tech said some tonebar clips might help tame the "scream", but it did not. I've tuned to ET as well as a percision strobe tune Rhodes stretch map, which also had no effect.

Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated!


My first post on the forum!

This is my Rhodes. It was made in the 26th week of 1974. It was sitting un-used in my highschool, and I asked to buy it around 2003, and the music director said "take it home, it doesn't have all the parts." It was only missing the screw for the leg braces and the sustain pedal rod! So yeah, it was free plus like 25$ for parts. Back then there were fewer places to get parts, but I got them I think from now defunct Speakeasy Vintage, which is where I got the stereo vibrato preamp you see in the photo (GREAT piece of gear - with the motion sound it nearly cures my suitcase envy and weighs a whole lot less). I also think I got the repro MK2 lid from Speakeasy to make stacking a nord on top easier (the original lid is at my parent's house in New England). Incedently, the ARP I got a few years ago fits amazingly on the MK2 lid too.

Cosmetically, its pretty bad, but I kind of love that about it to be honest. It's got battle scars. Right around the time I got it, casters were bolted directly to the case and lid...if anyone has any constructive reasons why I should take the casters off (read: practical - save the handwringing about the sacred rhodes or cosmetic concerns), I'm all ears. With the casters, and the right car, I deal with this instrument entirely by myself (and I'm not a big guy at all). I have always gigged with it fairly regularly (less so these days, but still around once a month).

It plays and sounds wonderful. Big fat '74 tone with good dynamics and range between bark and mellow tones. Miracle mod was done recently which was pretty life changing, and I re-did the grommets but will probably re-do them again with retro linear parts because the ones I got from avion studios were so-so. I have learned to do my own voicing and have it where I like it. I also do my own tuning, and I have it stretch tuned which I prefer. I tend to run it from the harp these days rather than the "input" jack. There are lots of other little things I will do when I have the time and money like new hammer tips, damper felts, and replacing some weak tines, but it's very playable as is.

I've played some better Rhodes pianos and I've played a lot that were way worse, but I will never part with mine. It's been mine for too long and I love it way too much.

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