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https://app.photobucket.com/u/butcher650/p/2d688686-05cb-486a-9b07-b81a4a41bb2a


https://app.photobucket.com/u/butcher650/p/789ae207-2492-412a-aa9f-b1fea73924e6

I haven't no  - I think they've already recently been done (by the guy before me who tried to get it going)! They look pretty new, and because all the stuff in there works I'm hoping they're OK. What do you think?

Yeah, its completely separate - and in that metal box. Not having had it working properly, I hadn't thought about the shielding properties as it was a pain in the neck to get into as it was soldered shut. I was thinking of mounting the board without it, but maybe not now!

Thank you so much - I see what you mean. I stared at it and the board the other day for what seemed like hours, and I thought it was top left because of the coil parts - and then I slowly started tracing the components. Those black wires go to the left side of the other board, which I assume must be like you say. I'll get it going - massive learning curve for me reading the schematic and trying to translate it to the parts in front of me. I've ordered some replacement resistors, need to try and find some caps etc now. I actually re-wound that little transformer part when I first got it open as noticed the wires not attached. They show continuity on the board, so I know that bit is OK. - I was hoping that would fix it, but I think there are other gremlins in this radio board. The vibrato I THINK works as the Pianet powers up, and the light on the trem board blinks when you engage the switch, but whether it will when I've sorted the radio circuit and got it outputting, we'll see!

Some of the sticky pads are OK, some aren't - I think they've been replaced at SOME point in it's life, but they all need replacing again for sure. I want to it get it outputting first - then I'll address the other bits, but pads definitely. It needs completely stripping and cosmetically restoring really - but like my Rhodes - that will probably be the 25th of never! As long as I can get it working and working well, the cosmetics can wait a bit!

To help me on ny quest however, could someone point me towards where yhis radio circuit marries upto on either the CH schematic and/or the cembalet schematic?

https://app.photobucket.com/u/butcher650/p/e05332fa-47d5-483f-a60e-7a613be49db1

Thanks so much for your replies and input Jenzz and theseacowexists (great handle btw)!

I'm about to have another little play about with it, but was leaning towards replacing the caps and resistors in the radio circuit and then seeing what happens. Thanks for the info on the schematic - may make a little more sense no!

Just hum at the moment!

Thanks Sean, really appreciate that.

Hey all!
Just picked up this rather charming Hohner Pianet CH from the early to mid 60s. I got it knowing there was an output issue, with the rather curious little radio circuit being the possible culprit. The Pianet powers up, the trem seems to work as the light bulbs lights up and flashes when engaged, and when plugged in, the hum pulsates at the same rate as the lights flashing. The output hum sounds much like a ground hum.

I've had the radio circuit out, noticed the little coil wasn't soldered to one of the posts, and hoped thats all it was, but unfort wasn't.

Also, is there any quick/easy way of knowing/testing the pickup(s)? There doesn't seem to be a lot of info/wiring diagrams out there! - Anyone much experience with this era of Pianets?!

Super stuff, thanks so much! Email on it's way.

Hey Folks,

Doing up a Rhodes 54 for a client at the moment, and I noticed that the Tone slider isn't wired in at all, and looks like the .047uF capacitor is missing. Looking to wire one in and get the Tone slider working again, and looking at diagrams and pictures from here, I'm not sure how much re-work I need to do. Here is the current setup - Could anyone out there help me please?!

https://app.photobucket.com/images/z428/butcher650/20200616_123943.jpg?Expires=1592308044&Key-Pair-Id=APKAIW3EMKNWQJ2CAFVA&Signature=gBpu~H9-h~9KUGaQZC-0AnmQprp-zAi16uzkWWJ-fNVZXnFQN3OgLyFNvh0d5hbTXewEurHTXFBoRqt4pW6KRhHWH1VjqxnXe56CMDg-~IGXeV-uP~tl8YNJsyVQoCWZOB5DjfWIQEuGfwjMS5yc8frBaiHm6IGz7JYHf4XuRN3VzYFqU06q7PaLJSfFz0VOeuZuIjKJ-t6DG-EaoSoF8wG447n~EcSAYV23P2J-HPkc8fY~89UwOqwaBWFPGut3dzPBsLuzjRAlg18eOEFa4kp9br0MR1RWXagJ-JX6ocbqvH6~s9DJmyPMUoBJ9QyjrvrpZ3SSTv9AMjqStUgiNQ__

That is AMAZING! I love it.

I think it was around 78 they did start putting the factory bumps in, my 79 has them.

Haha, your reply made me giggle sean.

I've got a 79 Mk1 and I love its light action compared to earlier ones (without the key pedestal bumps) because the early ones are slower/heavier and more sluggish.

I did a bump mod for a friend on his 77, and even after that I still preferred my 79.

I've no idea how to purposefully make it heavier other than what sean has already suggested, but if you are after that, perhaps a 75-77 Mk1 with or without the bump mod would give you a heavier action?

Thanks for the info and insight shmuelyosef,

Once I've got everything actually working, and got it to sound how I want, I'm keeping my options open as to then passive electronics against wired pre-amps and things, and the options of re-wiring. I want something that sounds good, gives a good output without noise, and something reliable when humping it about. I don't plan on using for too many gigs/outings, but when I do I don't want to have to 'fettle' it before hand!

You must have been reading my mind, just picked up a 2nd hand Boss OD-3 to try through it!

Also, just to update, I've re-soldered back as per the diagrams, and its now working again!

Not sure how long its going to last, but I've plans for either a new replacement passive set or potentially a tube pre-amp kit of some description.

Hi Sean,

Thanks so much for such a swift reply, and your knowledge!

The diagrams are aberjillion percent helpful - Legend! Thanks so much!

My 79' Mk1 73 stage just keeps fightin' on me!

Ive now got all 73 notes working, 73 good pickups (at last)!
But now, my passive electronics have gone out. I tested my notes by bypassing that and going straight into the harp with a phono so I know its the rail board, plus there be a broken wire:


I'm pretty sure it should be attached to the pot its pointing at as it isn't long enough to attach to anything else really, and I quickly tried re-soldering it, but I didn't have a lot of time and was a struggle to get it to hold. I know I need to strip it back a bit, but am I thinking correctly in that it does live on that pot?

Thanks once again in advance!

Replied!

Hi Spradders,

Im in Norwich UK - I can rewind them for you if you want? If you have already bought replacements and still don't want them, I'd quite like the spare ones.

Thanks for your kind words of advice pnoboy, I do really appreciate that. I've had lots of experience with soldering before, although I could still be better if I had less of a shaky hand.

I've already seen how quick you need to be given the plastic on the bobbins, so I will practice on some completely dead pickups first.

The wire I'm using is pickup wire (I'm re-winding from dead pickups where there is corrosion on the posts, or the coil winding start was broken), onto an empty pickup with better or no corrosion on the posts, so then I know it will have a good connection, and also I don't then need to count the revolutions as I'm re-winding!

Super stuff, thanks so much! 

Ah, excellent, thank you!

I had been reading articles/watching videos about the subject and was coming to the conclusion it could be because of the lacquer coating.

I was curious to see if the re-winding had worked before soldering the posts, so I was being a little impatient!

So, if solder the coil wire to the posts, I should then see resistance?

Hey folk,

I have successfully managed to rewind 3 of my dead pickups so far, using a little jig that I knocked up and my cordless drill. Works a treat, now I've got my technique of guiding and unwinding with my other hand.

However of the three I've done, none of them are showing any resistance on my meter at all, which is odd. (I think).

I've re-wound from a complete dead pickup to an empty pickup with good posts, so I didnt need to count the revolutions. I've only tied the wire onto the post from the coil winding start, and then at the end when I was done, I haven't soldered the posts yet. - Does this make a difference?

If not, is someone able to explain why, when I know I've got a complete re-wound pickup with it tied on each post, why I'm not getting any reading on my meter? - I mean none, not even a little bit. Help!! 

Hmm, OK.

As the grommets are OK, and you've moved the pickups closer to improve the sound, you may need tine stabilsers to stop them from oscillating/wavering.

https://www.electrickeys.co.uk/collections/fender-rhodes-tines-tone-bars/products/fender-rhodes-custom-tine-stabiliser

According to factory specs the pickups should be between 1.5mm & 3.1mm (approx) away from the end of the tine.

What are the tone bar grommets like? Could the metal of the screws/washers be rattling in the tonebar if the grommets are worn/perished? Would explain why you can hear it more at lower velocity strikes as the barking of harder strikes may mask it?

If there is any tine oscilation, this is usually because its too close to the pickup.

Hey Dan! (Don't worry, I already follow your FB page, and a mutual friend Dan Burnett let me know about you recently!

I have read that you can sometimes bring them back, and this is going to be my first port of call. I'm quite handy, and as I've done all the other bits so far, I'm going to give this a go. There is definitely corrosion on the pickup terminals, but the rest of the coils looks OK on all of the dead ones so far, unless any corrosion is lurking under the top layer. If I get stuck, I'll give you a shout. Hope that's OK. I love learning to do and doing new things, so I'm quite looking forward to the challenge. (As I've enjoyed the challenge so far with both of these 73s, as they are my first EPs to service/repair).

All of the tape is peeling and although I know this isn't at all necessary at all to replace, I'm thinking of doing that too anyway. Whats your take on that?

I met Christian from EK on Friday funnily enough, as amazingly he is local to me, and he's currently waiting on a shipment from VV containing pickups as he currently doesn't have any in stock, so I've got him on backup to give me a shout as soon as they are! 

So,

19 pickups dead in total, which isn't as bad as I first thought.

I can get them £12 each from a guy in the UK, which makes quite a sum of £228, or do I rewind and repair the dead ones?

Whats the general consensus on this topic?

Hi Sean,

Thank you so much for both of your replies, that info is invaluable, and I shall certainly be following it to diagnose my pickup issues.

Good to know the top end harp wiring is fine for both, I'll leave alone!

I shall report back when I've got them both singing again!

Hey folks,
I'm a newbie here, and a newbie to the Rhodes, so I apologise in advance if the question I'm about to ask are obvious, and/or been covered before!
Quick back story:
I'm servicing/repairing/modding a 77' MK1 73 for a good friend if mine. Ive already done the bump mod, and replaced the hammer tips, and about to replace the tone bar screws and grommits in preparation for voicing and tuning.

Angwho, Ive wanted one of my own for so long, and having his to work on was unbearable knowing I'd have to give it back, so I bought one for myself!! Found a 79' Mk1 73 being sold by someone else I knew, and he was 100% with its state and condition, which isn't very good. With it being a 79' it has the factory bumps on the key pedestals which is great. Ive replaced the damper felts as they were shot, and Ive got a tone bar screw and grommit kit ready for this one too. The only thing with this one is, is there are more dead pickups than good ones. I can't see any visible breaks in the pickup wiring, but I'm going to re-wire it anyway.

My question is related to the red wire at the top end of the harp and where it connects, as there is a difference in the 77 Im doing for my mate, and my 79, and I'm not sure which one is right, or if they both are. Here are the pics:

His 77' mk1:


My 79' mk1:


My other question is, when measuring the resistance of each pickup, (probe of meter on each side of one pickup) what number should I expect to see?

There are differences all over the place on mine, consistant on my mates (which I'd expect as his pickups are sounding fine). His read on average avout 0.50.

Ive done the screwdriver test on both pianos (his all pop) - although not very very loudly. Some of mine do, most don't, and the ones that do, some don't actually play when its plugged into an amp.

Help! (And many many thanks in advance)

Newbie Glen