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Now that I have corrected the key dip, there is clear double striking from Eb4 up to and including C5 correspond to their single damper module.
In Steve' corner (http://www.fenderrhodes.com/service/double-striking.html), he puts the causes of double striking down to escapement, strike line and damper. Seeing as every key on that module is double-striking, it leads me to that being the cause.
Any thoughts on how best to approach this?

I'm still a novice on the piano so currently rarely play using the sustain pedal. In fact, it wasn't even connected for a period as it got in the way, collected dust, and was another thing to remember to remove/insert during repair work.
Now that it's back on and my piano teacher is pushing me to use it, I noticed that the very light noise interference would disappear once the pedal was fully engaged.
The piano was super silent when I first bought it. I have since brought it back to life by cleaning out all the dust, key dip, key level, and played with the voicing / pickup position. I also bought a Speakeasy suitcase pre amp. I thought the interference was coming from the pre amp, especially since it was so intermittent. However, I now believe it is the piano itself.
There is a lot of interference when the harp is not screwed onto the supports. I assume it is grounding through the screws.
What are all the causes of interference on a rhodes (mine is 1979 MK1)?
Why does engaging the sustain pedal reduce the interference?

I am so glad this forum exists; without it, I would never have attempted any repair work on my Rhodes. Yes, youtube videos are remarkable and make it all look easy; yet, there's nothing like hearing from someone else who's been through the same doubts.

I spend a lot of time on a guitar forum from the UK (thefretboard.co.uk), a very welcoming forum with lots of advice. And all expertly shepherded by the admins. The amount of guitarists far outnumbers the rhodes players, but that isn't its strength. The members remain the members from far back when it was under another name. Members actively participate for sharing advice, gear and support (even off-topic psychological support). Its strength is supported by an easy interactive forum. It means threads (posts) are answered and completed. Much of the threads on this forum never go anywhere. Many of the most active posters were from 2008-2014.
Does the forum need to rethink its interface? Surely, there must be a way to make the posts more dynamic and encourage the amateur players and repairers to participate where the professional repairers have departed.

Am I right in thinking there is no way to directly see the threads that I have started, only the comments I have made?
Other forums permit this easy access with a highlighted star to indicate new comments (known as posts on this forum).

I have just picked up a Speakeasy Vintage Music Suitcase "Vintage Tub" Preamp and I'm really happy. Does anyone know how the Dyno Filter works? All the way counter clockwise, the volume drops slightly and the EQ becomes active, in the sense that EQ at 0 means there's no volume. This means the EQ can bring out the glass or broaden the wooden timbre. As the Dyno filter is turned counter clockwise, it sounds (to my ears) that the mids are being raised and the preamp EQ is dropping.
Could someone tell me how I should be using the Dyno filter and preamp?

The suitcase vibrato is quite different from the tremolo in a Fender Twin. I had always assumed they were one and the same, the only difference being stereo on the suitcase. What Leo Fender had named Vibrato on his amps was actually Tremolo; vibrato has a pitch shift. To my ears, I hear a pitch shift when I turn on the 'suitcase' vibrato as the left and right come into phase. Is this true only to this unit or is it true on recording a true suitcase?

What is the common cause for a hammer strike very left of the top E on a 1979 73 Rhodes? I'm happy with the strikes on the other keys but it does mean that strike line adjustment is limited.

Having recently replaced all the screws and grommets on my 1979 73 Rhodes MK1, some of the tone bars still sit off-centre. Any thoughts on how to correct this? All screws were originally threaded with wax.

1979 Rhodes Mk1 73 renovation.
Key Dip measures 1.1 - 1.25 so beyond the limits (1.035) across the keyboard.
Keyboard is perfectly level except the top 5 notes, which sit a paper shim higher than the rest but nothing drastic.
Escapement is at maximum.

No shims anywhere else apart from balance rail.
Back rail felt cloth is in good condition but thin. I'd say 1.8mm.
Rather than replace the original cloth (which seems quite expensive for what it is), could I not simply shim the entire run where the cloth isn't glued?

I assume this would reduce the key dip. Would this have any impact on escapement?

Does anyone have the Lp or Cd with some phenomenal Rhodes played by Frank Strazzeri? I'd really like to find a copy without paying silly money.

I had no luck getting a driver from my local stores as the sizes are 6 or 7 mm, not 1/4 inch. Instead I found a drill point that fit and took that to the shop to find a similar driver. The assistant pointed out that it wasn't a driver tip but rather the holder for different screw tips. She sold me a handle that I could use instead of my electric drill.
Once I got home I looked at the female hexagon on the handle and tried it on the pickup screw directly without the drill tip. It fits exactly!
So if you need a driver for your pickups in Europe, use a tip holder (forgive me for not knowing the technical names of these tools; I am a guitarist after all).

With a lolly stick, I noticed the space between the key front and tolex differs in the central part of the keyboard. The first 12 white keys of the extreme low and high keys are not as narrow.
Just an observation. I wondered why. Perhaps extra tolex or glue or something mechanical. Any thoughts?

I have multiple guitar amps at home but would really like to have a dedicated stereo amp head that I can run into a 2x12 speaker cab (left speaker to one amp/output, right speaker to another).
So far I've only found the Marshall el84 20/20 (single output transformer with stereo output) or Marshall el34 50/50 (two output transformers). I've never used such an amp. Although Marshall super bass are glorious, I wouldn't bet these retain the clarity of a super bass.
I would like to run a stereo trem pre amp (such as the delta-trem from effectrode) into a stereo input/output amp so the el84 appears interesting.
Any suggestions? No mono amps, please.

The effectrode delta-trem provides a two valve pre amp with a stereo output for panned tremolo fx. On paper it looks exceptional but I can't find any piano examples or reviews. Has anyone tried one?

https://www.effectrode.com/products/effects-pedals/delta-trem-tube-tremolo/