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I recently had the amp and pre amp redone in my suitcase 73, it's one of the Peterson pre amp with effects loop models from late 1974.
Problem I'm having is the sound out of the cabinet is a bit dull and lacking "crispness" (think fender reverb bright switch) the output to my headphones sounds great tho. Will there be any benefit to putting some new speakers in? Or is the high frequency definition hard capped by cabinet/ speaker placement relative to player?
Right now it sounds best when quiet but very dull when turned up to a normal volume. I do have it a few inches from a wall so that could be making it worse but I can't do anything about that with my space constraints.

I have a Hohner Electra piano that needs 2 reeds replaced, 1 is in the lower mid range and looks similar to a pianet t reed, but the other that's in the upper range is much more triangular shaped.
Does anyone have experience replacing Electra piano reeds or know of a source for originals? For now I will make my own out of some already treated spring steel, I'm sure it won't sound quite right, but I've made some before out of the same steel and they sustain pretty good. The ones that need replacing are circled in the attached photo and seem to have been homemade, they don't ring out at all and just make a quiet buzzy thud

2 somewhat related questions:

Dose anyone have a fender rhodes where the piano body uses 1 big piece of tolex to cover the piano body instead of the standard 3 piece style (1 for each side + 1 big rectangular piece to cover the front, bottom and back)
My piano has 1 big piece cut so that the only seams are at the corners, after removing it for replacement i noticed what looked to be some body filler used so i am assuming it's not original. It is wasteful but i prefer the look so i replicated it when replacing the tolex, I'm wondering if this was ever standard from the factory? It is less cost effective but I think it looks more elegant.

Another thing noticed while retolexing, the piano body appears to be made from a plywood bottom piece like expected, but the sides, front and back are made out of laminated pine board (a bunch of smaller pine planks glued together to make a wider plank). I know this isn't the case with the 1977 Rhodes I retolexed which was all plywood, does anyone know when the cutoff date could have been? It's not super nice wood or anything, but for home use it could make a good cabin themed Rhodes if sanded and stained. This is a 1973 stage 73 with the full skirted key caps.

While not particularly important, I do find these differences interesting and don't see any information on them.
Thanks.

Hi, I have a Wurlitzer 700 with the lowest few notes choking on a medium to hard strike, the note doesn't play except for a quiet harmonic. Weirdly the note works better if you press the middle of the key, this is only on white keys, the sharps in the affected section of keys work fine.
I'm wondering if anyone has experienced the same thing and knows what adjustment is needed.
I've had it for a few months, when I tested it at the guys house it all worked, then after a bumpy drive home I noticed the issue, just getting around to fixing it now as other than that issue it plays well already.
Thanks.

I'm working on a 1973 stage 73, when I first got it I remeber thinking how they could have sold a product with such a sloppy action, but after doing most of the stuff I had planed (basic vv refurb kit, bridle straps, new damper arms, minor setup including dropping harp support height) I've started to really like the action, it definitely has a bit more slop than my wood key mk2, but the added weight is nice especially when playing slower stuff, I've been going back and forth between Rhodes keyboards and I can't decide if I should be installing a bump mod, I've done one before on a 1977, but this Rhodes feels better To me without than that one did both before and after. I guess my main question is if the extra weight I feel is from the lack of a bump, or if the wood hammers add a bit of weight. I also have a 1974 88 I'm working on that feels sluggish and bad even with the harp height dropped so I don't think this is me liking sluggish keys, I normally play my mk2 and have loved the action. I'm not actually sure why the 1973 plays so good in comparison to the 1974, the pedestal felts on the 73 look worn with some black stuff on them where as the 1974 looks pretty much new. Maybe the new straps/ damper arms help? I know this is a bit of a convoluted question but I've been putting off doing the mod on the 1973 for about a week now because I don't know if I'll regret it.
If you have both plastic hammer and 1/2 wood hammer Rhodes both with pedestal bumps I'd like to hear your input on any differences in feel.
If you have an unbumped Rhodes I'd like to hear what you like about it/ what you did to get it playing well.
I might just go ahead with the mod and try to get my 1974 playing as well as this one without the bump mod, not sure, I have to decide in the next few days to stay on schedule. I have a silver sparkle lid from vv that's supposed to arrive Tuesday after 8 weeks of waiting, and my dads currently helping me re tolex the body, I'm trying to make the perfect Rhodes for me and ideally everything will be ready when the lid gets here so I can move it into the room with my other electric pianos for final voicing.
Is there only improvement to be had from a bump mod, or dose anyone prefer the feel without?