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The lowest E on my '73 Stage 73 just doesn't sound good. If you hit it too hard, you get a weird "sproing" because the tine hits the tonebar, and the tine is sort of rusty, and doesn't sustain very well. I know part of the problem is the slightly sticky action of the key due to it rubbing other keys, but any advice on getting the tine in better shape, or any mods to make it not hit the tonebar?

Thanks,
Dan

I recently decided to try to clean up the tolex on the "top" of my Fender Rhodes stage piano, and then to see if I could fix the latches that, on the bass end of the piano, did not latch. What I have discovered is that the bottom part of the latch that is attached to the piano half is somewhat dug into the wood, so that the top part of the latch, the actual latch, won't close, which is obviously a problem. My piano is one of the "earlier" ones I suppose with four latches instead of two, with one on theupper end and one on the lower end of the side of the lid, and the latches are of an older style also. Should I simply move the latch on the bass end up to a new spot and install it there so that it isn't in the bad spot, or is there something else I should do? One thing I have noticed is that my lid overhangs just slightly on the bass end, but it fits perfectly on the treble end. Any suggestions, anyone?

Thanks,
Dan

I have a Fender KXR 60 keyboard amp for my Rhodes (one 10" speaker, one tweeter) which I am basically satisfied with, however, it seems at close to highest volumes, it doesn't perform so well. It just sounds muddy, as if there's too much low or just plain too much sound, but I'm not sure what to do. It has four knobs for tone, set up in the way that a mixing board is, so that zero is at "12 o'clock", and below that to the left is negative, to the right is positive. I have the low and low mid completely cut out, the high mid all the way up (because that is what gives the Rhodes its punch), and the high at one or two o'clock usually. However, as I said, at close to the loudest volumes, it just sounds muddy and klunky in a way; it doesn't sound as good as it does at moderate volumes. Is this something you find everywhere when using an amp for a Rhodes, or do I have a not so good amp/not so good settings? If so, what can I change? I probably can't replace the amp, at least not for now, so should I maybe get a graphic equalizer and try that, or should I just change my settings, or do I simply have to resign to the fact that it can't be put "all the way up" and sound good. This issue has had me for awhile now, so please, give any advice you have.
Thanks,
Dan

I have YET AGAIN broken a tine in my Rhodes. First of all, I would like to know; is this a common occurence with Rhodes pianos, or are mine just old and brittle? And also, I will obviously need a replacement tine. I have a 1973 Stage piano, and I'm guessing the tines are about the same age. So, if you have any tines long enough for the second "C" on a 73-key Rhodes, please contact me.
Thanks,
Dan

Ok, so I've posted many different times in different forums about this problem, but I think (once again) I've finally figured my problem out, but I don't know how to fix it, again. For whatever reason, my hammer is "dribbling" on my tine, meaning it hits it and immediately bounces back, muting the tine. The whole hammer just goes up too high; I've compared it's strike height to other hammers, and it's almost always higher, just like it almost always "dribbles". So, does anyone know how to fix this? I've tried a separate hammer that I have, different, hammer tip, and have had no success. The only factor that might be affecting this, although I'm not sure, is that the little metal pin that holds my bridle strap is missing on that damper, so I have it duct taped on, which seems to work just as well when lined up right, but could that possibly be it? I have no spare dampers to test that out. So, PLEASE, if you have any suggestions, let me know.
Thanks a lot,
Dan

I'm having terminology difficulties...are Hammer Pivot Links and Hammer Flanges the same thing, or are they two different things?
Thanks,
Dan

Among other things wrong with my 1973 Mark I Stage, my F#/Gb No. 27 tine just broke. The tone generator (I believe it's called; the heavy metal part at the top) is all right, but the tine that the hammer hits has broken in half, so I am apparently in need of a new one. Does anyone have a spare they'd be willing to part with? I would be much obliged if you did   . And please, please, please...if you have ANY input on any of my other questions currently in the forum (mainly the one I have about the tendencys of damper problems in Mark Is)...please post your input. I need all the help I can get.
Thanks,
Dan

My Mark I Stage Piano (1973 model) has a few dampers that double-strike, simply because the hammer itself bounces, not so much as to strike the tine again, but enough to make the damper move. I was wondering if any other of you Mark I owners out there had this same problem, if you had any sucess  remedying it, or if you have tried putting in backchecks (a.k.a cheekblocks...). I really have no idea what to do about mine, and am on the verge of just putting in backchecks, but if anyone else has any other suggestions, I would be happy to try them out, because I'm not really enthusiastic on the prospect of making that kind of a change to the action of my piano; I figure there must be some way that this can be fixed, or else Mark I's would be much less popular models.

Thanks,
Dan

Does anyone know the exact length of the harp mounting screws for a Stage Mark I? Mine, for whatever reason, came without mounting screws, and I need to get some.

Thanks,
Dan