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Not mine and a cross-post from another forum, but this awesome!  Could be used for pickups

Hello all!

My CP70M has developed a pronounced 'click' when the sustain pedal is pressed.  Velocity of the pedal being pressed does not seem to effect the click.

It does not occur when the harp is not attached and the pedal is pressed.  I've inspected the wooden 'lifter' and I do not see any issue.   I also cannot hear it when I lift the dampers manually on the hard.

With the top open, it seems to be coming from the bass register.

Does anyone have any ideas on what might be causing it?

https://newyork.craigslist.org/brk/msg/d/new-york-musical-instrument/7550866499.html

Not mine.  Just lurking......

Does anyone know if there was ever a cover for the keyboard itself?  There are two hinges on the cover to access tuning, which makes me think it was an option. I can't seem to find anything about it though.

My CP70m doesn't have sustain pedal chains.
Could someone please measure theirs?
I love the piano, but the wandering sustain pedal drives me nuts!

I wonder, if most prefer running a direct signal off the harp on a Stage Rhodes, why are we not drilling a direct output on the name rail and installing a shunted 1/4" output?  Maintaining stock aesthetics of the original name rail?

With the all of the talk of the Bass or Tone control knob excessively coloring the signal in negative ways, a non-invasive, easily revertible option might be removal of the knob and installing a shunted 1/4" there? (Obviously with washers due to hole size.)

edit: I hadn't seen sean's post here https://ep-forum.com/smf/index.php?topic=9793.msg54382#msg54382.  I really like the drop-in replacement faceplates!

I have a Mark II.  The action always felt nice and tight, but the sound was always dull with little dynamics.  I replaced the hammer tips to no avail.  Adjusting pickups helped a little.

This weekend, I adjusted the strike line. Wow!  It came alive with great dynamics, tone and bark.  I had to shim the treble end about 3/16".  Now that its adjusted, I need to mount the harp.  However, on the Mark II, these are aluminum rails with tapped holes that machine screws go into.  Also, the location of these new holes are close to the original holes on the bass end of the harp.

My questions are:
- Should I make new holes in the harp to get the mounting holes far enough away from the original holes in the aluminum.
- Does anyone have any hints on tapping the aluminum?

I was wondering if anyone has any of these for sale.  Or, has anyone created a CAD/maker file for 3D printing?

Or, if you have a mute slider, would you give me the dimensions?  I'll create the CAD file from there.

Thanks!

~Andy

$300!
Any body in GA?
8-|

https://us.letgo.com/en/i/wurlitzer-organ_28f60c9e-f813-494e-b315-14bcd0c8ef0a

Does anyone have pictures of a 145.  I picked one up, but the knobs are different, the vibrato was not hooked up, no power switch and the neon was gone.  This has 4 holes in the face panel and nothing on the left cheek block.

On the plus side,  all reeds intact, pedal and and legs.  The amp had a broken resistor from the pick-up bar.  Viola!  Instant Wurli!  Now I just have to clean this up and give 'er a good paint job.

My wurli has very little high end.  I've replaced some of the 5uf caps which has helped clean up the overall sound, but still no high end.  The resistors are (basically) within specs. (Some are out 15%, so I dont think its *that* far off)

My question is: Is the trimmer R48 on the board for tone control?

Thanks.

Andy