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There is a set of videos on keyboardmag.com that shows a tech in the Rhodes factory who is being interviewed and is working on an early 70s Rhodes. It is very informative, in case you don't know about it, it is at keyboardmag.com in the video section. Enjoy!

Before I ask, some or all of these questions may be answered in the service manual. And if they are addressed in the service manual, where are they addressed?

Some questions about wiring rhodes pups:

What kind of wire is used between the pickups?
How do you solder/unsolder the pickups so that they don't get messed up?
Is it more effective to wire them after they've been connected to the harp, or before?
Is there a good use for bad (open) pickups?
Should the later white-tape pickups have the same impedance values as the earlier clear-tape pickups?
Why are so many of the white-tape pickups bad?

One of the bridle straps on my '78 Rhodes 73 Stage is broken. It's hanging from the hammer. I want to just grab one off the other piano I'm using for parts, and put it on the hammer and slip it over the damper lever. Any pointers as to how this is effectively done easily would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Is there any problem with switching say, the keys from one Rhodes to another? I found out the later model 73 Stage MK 1 has the pedestals with bumps and felts on the pedestals and I was thinking of putting them on the MK1 Rhodes with the suitcase amp, because it has seen much more mileage and has the flat pedestals and the action isn't great (although it is still much better than before I cleaned it all up).

What parts would be required to be switched? The keys, the hammers, What about the harp? Can it be left on the other one? I'm assuming they made these all things being relatively the same for mass production? What about value? Hurt help or remain the same? Thanks.. You Rhodes Scholars... :wink:

I was cleaning my Rhodes suitcase, with the Janus amp, and I decided the tines needed adjusting. They were all over the place with the dynamic response varying greatly from key to key. So I used my ears and adjusted all the tines so they were resting in the optimal position. They had a livelier dynamic response than before, and there was plenty of gain, as the pickups were all positioned fairly close to the tines. I noticed right off that the gain of this suitcase was higher, the amp more powerful than the 80w Peterson, but it doesn't sound as good as my Rhodes with the Peterson amp. If the amp is turned up much higher than 12 o'clock, you can almost hear the pickups without even playing anything. The amp overdrives the speakers. The tine placement on the service manual states between 1/16" and 1/8" and even that you can have a tine even closer than that to get optimal dynamic response.

The keys are all now playing much more consistent in the dynamic range, yet they're almost unbearably loud.

Did I put the tines too close to the pickups? Or is this just a case of the amp being louder than the Peterson amp? This would be great for stage performance, the speakers get an overdrive and there's a darker, edgier growl in the sound of this Rhodes, but still it is tough to dial in a nice volume setting that doesn't sound somewhat harsh for playing at home.. Any ideas? Particularly because the service manual devotes all of a couple of paragraphs to what could be a primary factor affecting tone in the Rhodes?

Recently, I had the opportunity to move my Janus Suitcase Rhodes 73 to a workshop area. This piano, although electronically fine, and cosmetically good, has had some problems with mushy action, and some keys sound louder than others. It is a drag because it would otherwise be a greeat instrument, and the amp section is apparently just amplifying the limitations and problems of the acoustic mechanisms of the top.

So I opened it up yesterday and took off the tone bar assembly, and then pulled the keys out. I will clean the keys and I'll take an air hose to the area removing all the dust. The hammer tips seem to be in decent shape, and I'm impatient to get it playing in much better shape, so I'll probably forgo any procedures that require a great deal more technical knowledge, even though they may make this piano play in a really great way.

One of the first things I noticed was that the tines and pickups were not really dialed in properly. So I have a few questions for the experts:

1)should any attention be paid to particular areas of the keys and hammer mechanisms when I blow them out?
2)What is optimal placement of tines relative to the pickups?
3) What is optimal placement of the hammers when striking the tines?

Any other general help would be appreciated. I'll probably try a quick adjustment procedure, put it back together, then go for better detail on a second go-around, especially if I'm still very dissatisfied.

My year-earlier suitcase 73 will be used as a "benchmark" because it plays very easily and doesn't have the "mush" problem--and, it was apparently regularly dialed in during the years its original owner played it, from around '75 to around '90.

Thanks.. Feel free to direct me to the service manual section--That's cool because I'm on my way over there presently..

I have a question about my '75 Mk1 Suitcase amp. On the amplifier on the side, exactly what function do the 2 "External Amplifiers Channel 1 and 2" Jacks provide? Are they preamp outs to go to either a PA system or a couple of external amplifiers? So you could plug them directly into a PA system and they would be either side of the stereo pan spectrum if you have the vibrato activated?

I'm asking this because I have plugged instruments into these jacks and the amplifer does amplify instruments plugged into the jacks. I just want to know if this is just an electronic fluke, or is it designed that way? I want to run effects in the loop on the front panel, AND (if possible) run a bass guitar and/or synth into the side plugs.

Also, if this isn't possible, is it possible to do this on the Janus amps? There are 2 extra plugs on the Janus amp.. Thanks for 'splainin it to me..

I posted this topic about a year and a half ago. I had a Wurlitzer 145 that was in storage. The lid over the keyboards has gotten a bit messed up but the rest of the piano is in the same restorable condition it was in when I put it away. I decided to set it on a stand and take it apart.

At first I had thought that the wooden keys had expanded from moisture, but now I'm thinking this has been occupied by wasps and there have been dust and dirt caked onto the keys. Additionally the felt that helps the keys slide smoothly over the rods that are at the base of the piano are hard and many have come un-glued from the keys and are loose in the piano. So, I am going to clean each key individually.

I want to prevent buying key tops for the whole thing, but there is one key top close to the lowest note that broke off and I'm looking for a replacement for it.

Then the little rods that the keys rest on have oxidized or rusted to various degrees and they need to have that rust removed. How to? chrome Polish and rust remover?

Thankfully the tines all work. All the felt hammers are working and the dampers seem to be almost complete and they're fairly clean inside. So the action would be very good if the keys were cleaned.

AND, lastly, the amplifier definitely needs servicing. And it will be serviced by a local technician who has fixed tube amps since the 60s when he had a tv repair shop nearby. This guy is good at troubleshooting hand-wired tube amps and I'm sure he'll tell me the caps are all dried out and need replacing. He would have already loooked at it but one of the screws that holds it to the base of the piano is sliding, and I can't seem to be able to grip the round-top nut that is recessed into the bottom of the piano. I'll get it loose one way or another.

So, I finally have this piano ready to work on. Prices don't seem very high for this model but then I looked up Wurlys in this section and found that 145's are considered by some to be the best-sounding of the Wurlitzer pianos!

I have seen pictures of Medeski playing one on his stage setup. I wonder if the speaker is deactivated and the tube amp is just plugged into the output jack provided on to an additional amplification system. The little 6x9 speaker seems small for playing live, unlike the Rhodes Suitcase..

Anyone with restoration experience or some comments are welcome to chime in. Oh--too bad--there was no sustain pedal. I'm convinced there's a room somewhere on the planet filled with both Rhodes and Wurlitzer sustain pedals. :wink:

I figured I'd throw this question out there: A Hohner Pianet Clavinet Duo is both a Pianet and a Clavinet, correct? How does the clavinet sound compare to a normal Hohner Clavinet sound? I am thinking about going on the hunt for one.

Does anyone have the wiring diagram that goes with a MK II Stage 54? I may be able to figure it out, but I tried to wire it similar to a MK I stage and the volume control ends up full on at left instead of right. Both panels have the same .47 capacitor, but I also read on this site that the 54 with sliders cancels treble instead of bass or something like that.

I'm assuming that all MK II stage pianos (54,73,88) have the same wiring from the front panel to the pickups..

This is the unit with the 1,2,3 numbered poles on back of both sliders, and they have the center detente.. If anyone could snap a picture or direct me to the correct wiring elsewhere on the supersite, I'd be very appreciative.

BTW This 54 will probably go up for sale. It originally had the white pickups but many of them were bad--I tried replacing the 14 or so bad pickups but instead decided to replace all the pickups by switching the pickups from my parts 73 stage MK i (79 model), thus avoiding any individual pickup soldering.

I heard the wiring on the 73 is different from pickup to pickup, but this still works on the 54.. I don't know if the result was more or less gain overall. The piano is certainly loud when turned up--Just the volume control seems to work backwards.. Thank you for any knowledgeable responses!

I have heard the Janus amp is a stronger, more reliable amp. I have heard that the Peterson amp has good tone.

The Janus is reliable and it is easy to turn the knobs and sliders because of the outlay. But it can be very loud. The Peterson amp can be very sweet sounding and overdrives nicely.

Anyone have opinions as to which amp is the BETTER SOUNDING of the 2?

I understand that this could be somewhat controversial, but you know, it is important to one's ears. Both amps are awesome, I think. So what's your opinion, and please include the reason why you feel the one is better than the other, and if you have very much experience hearing either or both.

I've been enjoying my Rhodes 73 Suitcase mk I from '76 and it has the Peterson amp, but I also have a Janus amp Suitcase from around '78 but I haven't had the chance to really A/B them, because the keyboard on the later model is in need of maintenance and it simply doesn't sound as good because of the keyboard issues (varying feel and action from key to key, tines are out of adjustment, etc.). I have thought about taking the front panels and switching them and giving the more powerful amp a whirl with the better of the 2 keyboard tops. But until I get some help moving these around (the other one is downstairs away from the '75 model) I thought I'd solicit some opinions from the Rhodes enthusiasts on this forum..

I just got a fairly beat-up Rhodes through UPS, and the item was in one box and basically with the cardboard around it. I knew it would be sparingly packed because it was a very cheap shipping cost, and the Rhodes was already very worn, with tolex peeling, bad keys, etc. Stage MK I from early 70s.

It did have some damage from shipping, a crack at the back side along the case. I alerted the shipper who was at a box place and they told me they'd file a claim, which they did. Then UPS told them I should have it ready the same packed as when I got it. So I moved it back outside and placed the cardboard around it.

I didn't know they were going to take it away--I thought they were going to look at it or something, so I put a minimal amount of tape on it. They picked it up and left me a tag with trk # and so I called them and that is where I'm at right now.

Does anyone know what I should expect in terms of turnaround time on this? I want to get a bit towards the damaged cracked wood but seriously want to just get the piano back so I can try to get it into playing shape.

I called them and they simply said it was being inspected at the local UPS facility and they would alert the shipper when they have assessed the claim and the shipper would then let me know and I could have it back if I want or they could dispose of it (!) if not! Don't throw it away!

Anyway, is anyone experienced with dealing with damage claims on the receiving end with UPS, and if so, what should I expect? Thanks a bunch.. Maybe this should go in the "shipping an electric piano" section..

I love using effects on the Rhodes. I have a nice '76 suitcase that has the 80w amp in it and I spent at least an hour playing around using the old Triangle-Knob Big Muff Pi pedal. That has the smoothest, coolest fuzz tone I have ever heard on my Rhodes. I also enjoy using an AD-230 Ibanez analog delay/flanger unit, this gives up to 600 ms analog delay time, and has a modulator LFO which can change the delay time with varying degrees, modulating the signal. The flanger sounds really nice too.

I bought an old Tube Wurly from a guy, it didn't have the sustain pedal but it looks like the one Ray Charles played in the early days. It looks like one I saw on Medeski's setup. It does have the legs. Some of the key tops are coming unglued. There has been expansion of the wood on the keys they stick sometimes. Every note did play, though and acoustically it sounded like it was in decent tune. The amp made noise, so I'll probably take it to a tech to have caps replaced.

Keep in mind this was purchased from a junk dealer for really cheap, a couple of years back. I put it in storage out back and hope to get it out and try to work on it. I have a nasty habit of getting project keyboards, currently I've got this Wurly (145?), an extra Rhodes Suitcase piano and a Minimoog, all of which have varying degrees of restoration needed.

That shouldn't stop me, though. Comments? Anyone do a full-blown restore on a Wurly care to chime in? Is a service manual available for the early Wurlies?

I just figured I'd post this.. Who knows how many Wurly experts even read this section.. This site seems more suited for Rhodes enthusiasts, but maybe this will start something going here. Thanks!

I was wondering: If I wanted to hear one keyboard that was from an earlier suitcase Rhodes playing on top of a newer 100w suitcase amp, would the only necessary change be to unscrew the screws on the metal panel that has the preamp and concentric knobs on it, and the top of course, then put the other front panel on it?

Also, about Stage pianos used as suitcase pianos and vice versa:

Is this the same as well, simply switching the panels, or does a stage piano not fit on a suitcase amp bottom? I suppose I could find out myself but I was hoping I could save my back the lifting involved! Thanks!

I have a nice dliemna but with space limitations and family and all, I will probably sell 2 of my 3 Rhodes pianos. So I'll try to tell you this story and if you like any one of these, then vote for it as the one I should keep and, please chime in!

Here are the 3 Rhodes pianos I have, all 3 are 73 key pianos:

1) The first one I got about 2 years ago, and it is being used more than any of them. It is an 80 watt late model Suitcase Rhodes 73. Probably around a '75 model because it doesn't say Fender on the nameplate, but it does have the concentric knobs, and a silver grillcloth. The keyboard plays very nice, I got it from a guy who played it over the years and it is very clean cosmetically. I like the action and the tuning has stayed consistent, there was a sticking key near the top, but otherwise plays like a dream.  

The amplifier has some problems, though. It craps out on the low end, and the vibrato is more like a tremolo from a Fender amp (is it supposed to be a stereo pan effect?). And the amp isn't extremely strong sounding, it distorts a bit. When you have the loop in use some of the weakness goes away, so I'm thinking it could be a bad connection or some pre-amp problem.

2)The next one I got about a year ago. It isn't being used much. It is a newer model but has been played more. It has the sliders and the 100watt amp, and its strong point is the amp. The amp is loud and proud and could easily be the primary amp in a more elaborate keyboard/bass setup.

The keyboard is the weak spot on this one. although the keys all play, they are a bit mushy in places, and are not consistent at all. The tuning is OK, but some maintenance is needed. Some keys play loudly while others sound weak. It is almost an interesting result because you don't know what will happen when you're playing something, but this isn't a desired thing. The cosmetics are good and the amp is strong. Unfortunately the cable has an extra lead on it so you can't switch #2 and #1's keyboard and amps.

3)I just got this one, and it may be the first one to go. It is a same era Stage model, around '77. It has some wear-related issues such as worn/torn tolex on the lid, and some of the tolex on the exterior was even replaced with black vinyl, and tacked in place. The front nameplate is gone, and some of the keys have hairline cracks on the tops of them, and they've yellowed slightly. I think it was stored in a damp basement for a time; however the action on the keyboard is really pretty good, consistent across the keys, and other than the cosmetic issues, the keyboard is nice and the thing plays great, the sustain pedal is there.. The legs are replacement legs but they work. This one is more cosmetically challenged than the others, but it still sounds good. The volume and bass boost knobs on it are the aluminum knobs with the black dot on the tops.

So, there they are, three pianos, probably within 3-4 years of each other in manufacture date, but each with their own strengths and weaknesses.

Comments? Suggestions? Which one to keep, and what to do with it to make me totally happy with my decision? I could try to get the 1st one's amp sounding great, and get the keyboard sounding better on the 2nd one, and THEN decide.

I am a new member here. Thanks in advance. This seems like an ideal place to relate this sitiuation. Great forum guys and girls, I'm glad to be a part of the group!