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Topics - Tines&Reeds

#1
Hey guys & ladies,

I'd like to share this my progress on this restoration with you which is not yet completed. But since this is an overhaul from ground up I thought this could be of interest (or just for fun) for some of you.
This is a Buz Watson Fender Rhodes Mark 1A manufactured in 1972. It will be overhauled completely from the out- and from the inside. It will also get our preamp which we just finished. So, let's start:



The first step is to remove the old key bushings:



and the old pedestal felts:





Let's take a closer look to the case:









Time to remove this felt as well:







And add a new high-quality one from the local piano builders supply here in Germany:





The old damper felts will be removed as well:







and we replaced them with damper felts Made in Germany after our requirements as well:



Next are the keypins that need some cleaning & polishing:



Before adding new key bushing felts we measure the key pins as well as the slots in the hole. We have different types of cauls and different thicknesses of felt to achieve a very good match from the start:



We always do one or two test-keys to check if we measured right before applying the combination of caul & felt to the whole keybed. Since the slots inside the keys were not manufactured with close tolerances reworking the felt after applying it is always necessary.



And the rest:







So, we now allow the glue to dry. Let's take care of the case.

Removing the hardware:





Removing the tolex:



Sanding, sanding, sanding:



Repair the case where necessary:



Paint it black from the inside:



Next step: Cutting the tolex to size and glue it to the case. Now it looks like this:



We have some nice wooden cheek blocks available. At the moment we have cherry or walnut. So what would you prefer?





The customer decided on walnut. A beautiful decision. So we go on and oiled the wood instead of painting it with clear coat. This gives it a natural touch. Another upside is that you can remove any scratches quite easily. Just sand it and apply oil again: Voila! The scratch is gone. It's not that simple with lacquer.



Next is cleaning and polishing of the keys:



And grounding the damper arms:



Let's move on to the keys. Leveling:





Adding the pedestal modification:





And here is the god-shot:




So... next week we will do the voicing and installation of our preamp FERRO. We will give you some details about it soon! But this Rhodes will be the first one where it will be installed. It's so exciting! :-)


I'll keep you posted about it.

Let me know if you have any questions or what you think about it!

Best,
Chris
#2
Hey folks,

since I am building a custom satellite system for the pianos in my workshop, I am also interested in recreate the suitcase preamp. So I started to digitize the preamp of the Mark II suitcase. Mark II you ask? I talked to another rhodes-tech who invented a preamp by himself and he told me that the Mark II is technically the best preamp especially when it comes to the vibrato-section.

So I spent yesterday and today putting the layout into eagle which I attached to the post. The picture has a high resolution so you better download it instead of open it in your browser.

I also attached the pcb layout. The potentiometer will be connected externally.

I've got a few questions regarding the original layout which you can find here:
http://www.fenderrhodes.com/pdf/late-mark2-suitcase.pdf

1.) R14 and R26 are connected to voltage. But it's not mentioned, if it's + or -.
2.) Does anybody know how much current which voltage goes through the LEDs (power & vibrato)?
3.) There is no blocking-cap on U1. I think it's better to add one?
4.) C19 says 100uF while C20 says 100pF. Do you think that's a mistake and it both needs to be 100uF? This would make sense to me.

Any other suggestions are very appreciated! As soon as I verified the layout and prooved it's working, I'll put the layout-files online so you could etch them by yourself.

(Attachment didn't work... so I uploaded to dropbox).
https://www.dropbox.com/s/gzzuzlacgkpa32p/SuitcasePreamp.png?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/vee7flhw52twueb/SuitcasePreampPCB.png?dl=0

Thanks,
Chris
#3
Hey people,

last year I made a video about rhodes vs. plugins which I posted here too. Now I made another one which covers the following plugins:

XLN Audio - Addictive Keys Mark One
UVI - Tines Anthology
RedTape - EightyEight
AAS - Lounge Lizard EP-4
Precisionsound - Dusty Electric
Purgatory Creek - Mark V
Premier Sound Factory - Mark I Stage Premier

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4DBWhPmogDg

Tune in and post your comments! Thanks!


Best,
Chris
#4
Hey guys,

I took the last days to create a video, that compares a real Fender Rhodes with the most common plugins and a nord.
Please tune in and gimme a comment on what you think about the plugins and the rhodes sound. You can find soundcloud files under the video...

Thank you and enjoy it!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QKtVSJsem_I
#5
Buying / WTB Rhodes Pickups 3"
July 15, 2013, 07:49:27 AM
Hey!

I'm looking for a whole bunch of pickups 3". I need at least 40 pcs.

I'm located in Germany.

Thanks,
Chris
#6
Hey there,

there are three latches missing on a Mark V I restaurate.
Is there any replacement?

Thanks,
Chris
#7
Hey people,

I think the topic says it.

Thanks,
Chris
#8
Hey out there,

I've the chance to get a Rhodes 1967. I have no pictures yet but I think that should be a sparkle top rhodes. The piano is according to the seller, in best condition. It has never been on the road and includes the complete hardware.

I never saw such a piano on ebay or so. So I have no idea, of what is that worth.

What do you think?

Thanks,
Chris
#9
The Wurlitzer Electric Piano / Lubricate the action
July 28, 2011, 08:28:23 AM
Hey people,

I just want to know, what do you use for lubricating the action of a wurlitzer 200 / 200A / 206, etc.
Here in Germany is something that is called WD40. Don't know, if you ever heard about it. It is used to lubricate nearly everything. But I'm not sure, if it's the right lube for an action.

Thanks,
Chris
#10
Preamps, Modifications & Upgrades / Preampwiring
July 25, 2011, 04:02:32 AM
Hey people,

Just a short question: I have a suitcasepreamp. In the preamp, there is a pin called E12. I need to know, where it leads to. In the schematic (http://www.fenderrhodes.org/ch11/fig11-1.jpg) its not identifiable, if E15 or E12 leads to pin 2 on the XLR. Maybe both?

Thanks in advance!

Chris
#11
Hey people,

could it be, that all the hardware of a rhodes piano fits with the hardware of penn elcom?!

Please compare the corners of VV (http://www.vintagevibe.com/p-419-piano-corners.aspx) with the one of penn elcom 1086N (http://www.penn-elcom.com/Default.asp?MC=1104350&GC=135&GD=Elcom-Cabinet-Corners). They look like they are the same?!

Here is another one:
Vintage Vibe Hinges: http://www.vintagevibe.com/p-427-hinges.aspx
Penn Elcom Hinges: http://www.penn-elcom.com/Default.asp?MC=1108020&GC=62&GD=Hinges

I'm located in Germany and here nobody is able to get those parts, because it's US sale only. Maybe one of you could try these things out and give a short feedback?!

Thanks,
Chris
#12
Hey people,

I now checked everything and I can't get a solution of what is going wrong here.
I've got some notes, which if I strike them hard, are not barking. They get even quiter, then striking the key less hard. And another thing is strange too:
If I strike the key with maybe 20% power, than its smooth and soft, like it should be. If I strike the key with maybe 60%, than it barks and sounds like I hit the key with 100%. And if I do so, than the problem described above happens.....

The piano has new damperfelts and new hammertips. The damperfelts do not touch the tine, even if I strike the key hard. So, that is not the problem.
I also checked the keyleveling. That seems also okay. I checked the connection between tine and tonebar, I loosened the screw and tightened the screw. I checked the grommets, they are fine.

Would you please help me? I don't know, what to do next.

Thanks,
Chris
#13
Hey people,

I have to retolex a Fender Rhodes, Mark II 73.
Do you have any hints about that? Do you cut the tolex in length and width before glueing it on the rhodes? Do you use kinde of "template" for precutting the parts? Or do I get the dimensions of the different tolex-parts in the internet?

Thanks,
Chris
#14
Hey people,

here is my problem:
I've got a Mark II in really good shape. The only thing is, that some keys are in bad condition. Normally I would replace the key caps but the problem is the color of the keycaps. If I would change the broken with new ones, you can easily see this.
Is there another possibility to get the things done without changing all keycaps?

Thanks,
Chris
#15
Hey people,

I got a delivery from the states now and on the pallet there was an rhodes piano I did not see before. I looked it up on the fender rhodes supersite and it looks like a student piano. I read about it also on the supersite and found that picture:

http://www.fenderrhodes.com/img/models/student/kmc1-panel.jpg

My piano has also this panel. The descritption says something about, that the piano should have a scaled-down amp with two 10" speakers. My piano has just one and there is no big hole for a second one. Also mine has just one pedal. I cann't find a serialnumber to get some infos about the date. There is a stamp on the harp that says "130" and on the serialplate "FR-7055". I'm not really sure, what this thing would be worth. Has anyone an idea? I read something about, that there were just 280 pieces produced. So it could be really rare?!?

Thanks,
Chris
#16
Buying / Looking for the damper release bar!
April 11, 2011, 03:52:46 PM
Hey people,

so, what I should say. I'm just looking for a damper release bar.

Thanks,
Chris
#17
Hey people,

I'm looking for any kind of Rhodes Piano, Yamaha CP or Wurlitzer in Denver, Boulder, CO Springs and other cities in this area.
The condition doesn't matter. Also if the piano is not working, I'm interested.

Thanks!

Take care,
Chris
#18
Hey people,

I'm looking for two things:

a.) Rhodes Mark V
b.) Super Satellite System or Janus

If you have one of these things, or both, I hope, that you can ship it. I cannot pick it up. It has to be delivered to Colorado Springs.

Thank you and good bye!

Best regards,
Chris