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Topics - David Ell

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The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / safe tip removal
« on: August 08, 2013, 06:01:35 PM »
 Special tools and jigs can be fashioned for working on a Rhodes. I use an isolation jig to keep the older style hammer from moving side to side. It's the  single links that tend to break, the hinge not so much.
 For safe removal with the later style you can hold up two hammers, with the other hammer up a little higher to be used as a fence. Grip with the thumb (on the hammer to be cut) and use the first finger to hold the next hammer by bracing it with the side of the finger. This other hammer is up a little higher for safety. Then using a number 2 exacto knife blade, work from one corner and slice under the tips. Remains can be dealt with using a mini dremel or file.
 Keep your tools in order. I keep one knife *only* to be used for tips and replace the blade often. When you struggle making a cut, that's when things get dangerous. Always use a sharp blade.
 The combs (later pianos) rarely break but the hinge can get contorted so a rubber block can be used between the hammer arms if needed. If a hinge gets distorted, inspect it. If it's white, replace. If it just doesn't swing well, use my silicone. Of course, try to remove the tips without a knife first. Many times they come right off just by pulling.
 When I stated that bringing a Rhodes to a tech is always the best solution for a Rhodes, I meant it. What happens with online help is people just get little bits of info here and there and then go to work. It's doesn't work like that, trust me. For example, are just going to replace the tips, as if it's a single and separate aspect of the piano? Probably. I don't look at it like that.
 Don't believe people that say working on a Rhodes is easy and simple. These people don't have a clue. In fact, a Rhodes is actually a *difficult* instrument to work on. Why? Because most every adjustment or repair has *another* related part of the piano that needs to be held in mind and then adjusted. You have to at once do one thing, while paying attention to another part of the piano. Since every piano is a little different, "seeing" this when you size up a piano is what I call the "eye of the tech". So much goes unnoticed to the untrained eye. There is no way around getting this eye other than experience. I tell people don't dare call yourself a tech until 50 pianos. I mean it. Much respect for real techs. 

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For Sale / Half Wood / Half plastic hammers for pre - '75 Fender Rhodes.
« on: August 06, 2013, 03:54:47 PM »
I have a few spares if needed. 10$ per hammer. Fits '69 to mid '75 pianos. Excellent condition.

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The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / Diamond in the rough
« on: August 05, 2013, 01:21:48 PM »
As time goes by, I am liking the late '75 to very early '77 Rhodes more and more. They aren't as 3D sounding or have the highs as the later models but to me that's a good thing. I like the click of the later models but it wears on me in no time at all. As a tech, there is more work to be done on the mid '70's Rhodes but that's what I like about them. I can get a great sound out of them with the right treatment. Too bad I can't find one to save my life.
 I have found that most of them will take the standard key pedestal mod well (I have a roll of original felt on paper backing) but not all of them. Some you need to really get in there and try different things. On my high School Rhodes I had to rebuild the action three times before it felt right. They also take the harder (down five) tip mod well. The upper range with new tips and all the harmonics backed way off, sounds sweet. I got to get me a stage 73 from  late '75.

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For Sale / 60's pic ups.
« on: July 07, 2013, 05:56:11 PM »
Pick ups from 1965, 10$ each. All tested and work.

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From the late 70's early 80's, a complete 88 note damper set. I modified these dampers "damper mod" for better tine clearance and tine stopping power. I am a tech and have done this mod many times. It works. You get a cleaner note articulation and better note off stoppage. Please note that one of the bass damper hooks has been repaired but works perfectly. So, if you want a better playing Rhodes or are a tech that wants to learn what's it all about now is your chance. This mod is a must for all Rhodes! 75$ plus shipping.

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For Sale / 1965 name rail.
« on: July 07, 2013, 04:26:58 PM »
Sold.

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Excellent condition tone bars from 1965. Comes with screws. Missing 4-5 midrange bars to complete the set. Complete set minus the few midrange bars 30$ plus shipping. Great deal, right?

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The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / The lube to use.
« on: June 27, 2013, 03:31:37 PM »
Post deleted.

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Parts, Service, Maintenance & Repairs / Vintage tines
« on: June 25, 2013, 06:15:43 PM »
So they got deleted. We still need a better tine. Ok, I need a better tine.

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Parts, Service, Maintenance & Repairs / Tip size
« on: June 16, 2013, 09:38:08 PM »
Self deleted post.

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The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / Bark
« on: May 15, 2013, 09:53:45 AM »
Aside from all the other things that have already been said about "bark", much of it is caused by the effect the damper pad has on stopping the tine. It doesn't stop on a dime. That's it right there.

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The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / key ped mod and back flange
« on: May 15, 2013, 06:02:39 AM »
Post deleted.

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