Topics

Hey all

I am restoring my Prophet 5, and was looking for a forum similar to this, where I could ask questions in regards to synth restoration. Can you guys point me in a good direction?

- Alex

Hey all

Just bought a Hohner Clavinet Duo. I have never owned this instrument before. I know that the ABCD switches regulates how the pickups make the instrument sound. However, if I have C and A pressed down, no sound comes out of the instrument. I am not sure if this means that the bass pickup or the top pickup is dead. From my understanding, any combination of button presses should work on the ABCD buttons - but maybe I am mistaken?

- Alex

Hey all

Did anyone ever find a proper solution to the top pickup issue on a CP-60? Can you take the strings out and redo the press connection, or maybe solder it instead? Or something else? Looking for peoples experiences here.

I have one that needs to be restored in the action as well. When that is done, I presume that the MIDI will need to be recalibrated. Any advice on tools for that?

- Alex

Hey all

Recently I got my Prophet 5 back from repair, and put it on my Rhodes where I should it should live its life. But it awakes an awful hum that goes into the Rhodes speakers. I wonder - I've seen dozens of YouTube videos from back in the day, where keyboard players put their synths on their Rhodes pianos when playing live etc. So what makes the hum, and how did they remedy it? Is it a grounding issue, or maybe the Rhodes need a hum shield of some sort?

The same thing happened when I put my Juno 6 on top of the Rhodes, but my Prophet 08 didnt affect the Rhodes output at all thought...

- Alex

Hey

Just got a new Wurli home, and when opened up, I could see some differences in the preamps, compared to another one I have at home. I am not much of an electronics wizard, so thought I would post a pic here and see if anyone could make something of it? I attached the pics to this post...

- Alex

Hi all

I have two Wurlitzer model 200 in my house right now. One of them is 110V and the other is 230V.

Can I switch rails without any trouble? Put the 230V in the other one, and in that way "convert" it to 230V?

- Alex

Hi all

Anybody here is using a loop pedal with their Suitcase? If so, how do you do it? Drag cables from the insert point in the preamp to the floor, or some other more clever (and less cluttered) way? Also, where to you put the pedal? When I was operating a stage piano, it was no problem, but now, the amp is sort of in the way of effect pedals

- Alex

Hey all

I read somewhere that the suitcase with its four speaker units is a full bandwidth amp. I have the 80W amp, which doesn't go that loud to begin with. Would there be anything wrong with blasting my Minimoog Voyager through the external inputs (outputs) in the suitcase amp?

Also, if I put a synth through the Return jack in the Peterson preamp, it should go through the amp, stereo tremolo and all, right?

– Alex

Hey

Did a quick search, but couldn't find a definite answer on this - is it possible to use a newer pickup in a stage piano from '71?

Thanks!

– Alex

EDIT: Look further down for pictures of my model

Hi

I was offered a Rhodes Suitcase the other day. It looks to be in a really good condition, but the metal plate in the suitcase amp (where the powerplug is etc.) has some holes drilled, probably for an old mod.

Somehow, this bugs me a little bit. If I buy this to keep it, I would've preferred it to be in proper condition. I can fix all the other stuff, except that metal plate.

Since its the place for serial number etc. I guess it is not easily replaced?

What would you guys do?

– Alex

Hi all

I am tinkering with the thought of restoring my old Yamaha CP70. It plays great, so it would primarily be a cosmetic restoration. I've done a few searches, but there is not much information about this sort of thing on the internet.

Does any members in here have any experience with this kind of thing?

I of course want to retolex the whole thing. A challenging part could be the metallic front panel with the Yamaha logo on it. It has some paint chipped of, but I dont know if I can mask out the Yamaha logo properly, and then get it resprayed in a car shop or something like that.

I would also have to take all the metallic parts (hinges, handles etc.) and get them resprayed I think.

If any in here have any experience, good or bad, at all, I would love to hear it!

– Alex

I have a weird issue with my Wurlitzer. I haven't seen this on anything before.

I thought one of my speakers was broken, so wanted to switch them tonight and see if it was the speaker or the amp.

I then found out that the speaker only distorts when one particular screw is attaching the speaker to the lid (200A model).

Have any of you guys ever noticed something like that?

Is there any way to isolate a screw, or how would I go about solving something like this?

– Alex

Hi

When trying to voice my Wurlitzer a little, I noticed really fast that the pickups are a lot thicker in the bass end and top end of the piano. Even so thick that its kind of hard to move them up and down in the voicing process.

Is this normal? Am I even supposed to move them up and down in the treble and bass?

– Alex

Hi all

Just bought my first Wurlitzer piano. It is actually in a rather good condition, with the exception of the feeds. No sluggish action and all, and it is not noisy. It is a 200A model. Dont know how to figure out when its from though...

Now, questions about the reeds. The top 6 reeds all seem to be bent upwards, resulting in no volume when I play them. I know reeds are sensible, and I know they probably ended up like that because of a strike line issue. Question is, can I bent them back, or will that result in them breaking. Besides them, I got 9 cracked reeds, so replacing all these reeds is going to be a costly affair.

Which leads me to my next question: Do I need a mold to make my own reeds? Or is it possible to do by hand? Anyone has some good tips?

On another note, my piano has a white on/off buttom on the left cheek block. I haven't seen that on any pictures of a Wurlitzer before. I thought the volume knob turned it on or off. My model is a european 220V though, so might be different? It looks like it was professionally installed though.

- Alex

Hi all

I noticed (I think after installing the pre '74 hammertips) that when I release a key on the piano, it has a slight metallic sound. I thought it was a damper issue, but after messing around with it for a bit, I couldn't improve it. It's rather distracting. Has any of you had that problem, and how did you go about solving it?

I uploaded a small 15 sec. sound clip for demonstration purposes:

https://soundcloud.com/alexdeckerdk/rhodes-test-recording/s-wkdEy

– Alex

Hi all

My '72 Rhodes still suffer from heavy sluggish action, even though I have changed parts, installed bump mod and all that. The sustain pedal is kinda heavy to depress as well

So my last option is replacing the damper arms, as I've heard that the early piano damper arms were much stiffer than the later ones, which contributes to the heavy action.

So just wondered if the Vintage Vibe reproduction damper arms is a little softer, and would benefit the action. Does anyone have any experience with this?

- Alex

Hi all

I am trying to get a hold of a Peterson preamp. If anyone has one to sell, please contact me. I live in Copenhagen, Europe...

– Alex

Hi all

I have a '72 Buz Watson as my livingroom instrument. I am considering buying a suitcase amp to put it on, and play through that.

I have a few questions:

Have any in here paired a Stage version with a suitcase before? And with success? I heard that the wood in the bottom was thinner on the suitcase models, but can't remember if that only related to Wuritzers or also Rhodes?

Is it possible to put a Stage on a suitcase, or would the leg flangers get in the way?

Is there any big difference between the power amps in a Mk1 suitcase and a Mk2 suitcase? If yes, can you expand on them?

Thanks all! Hope somebody can give a little perspective on this

– Alex

Hi all

I always read and hear a lot of which Rhodes Mk1 is the best.

Rarely do I see a discussion on which Mk2 model is the best. To my knowledge, there was models with wooden keys, plastic keys, Torrington tines and other tines.

I would love to hear some of your opinions on the Mk2 models only - which ones you prefer, would you ever buy and keep one yourself and so on

I am restoring a Mk2 from 1980 right now with wooden keys. Not completely sure about what tines are in it, but the action as very nice - completely different to my Buz Watson model!

– Alex

Hi all

I have a few questions about the rhodes pianos that I hope you guys can help me with. Would be nice to further my understanding of these wonderful pianos even more

1. I've always wondered – when the harp is securely mounted with two screws on each side, why the need for the harp hinge as well?

2. What is the general consensus on pedestial mod vs Marcel curve?

3. I heard that the tine metal is really hard. Is it possible to file it down with a metal file, or what would be the best way to go about that without power tools?

4. Is it possible to LOOSE tension in the damper arms?

Thanks!

– Alex

Hi all

Just a few questions. First - the top case for the piano on the suitcase models, did that also come with a leg department, like the stage model?

Secondly, I have a faulty speaker unit in my suitcase. It distorts when I play the piano. Does anyone have any spare speakers lying around I could buy? I live in Denmark, Europe...

Also, would I have to tear off the grill to replace to speakers, or can I do it completely from the inside of the cabinet?

- Alex

Hey all

I have a 1970 suitcase without the accessory jacks before the preamp. Is there another by (without modifying anything) that I can run pedals with this rhodes? Maybe with the help of the External Amp jacks or something like that?

- Alex

Hi all

On my newly purchased suitcase 73, it is date marked on the backside of the harp. It says Mar 1 1970, so I am guessing this is one of the earliest Mk1 models. On the upperside of the harp it says 160. Does anyone know what that number means?

Couple of other differences compared to my '72 stage model. The tonebars are a grey raw metal color, and not the golden color of my stage model.

Can anyone tell me when they Raymac tines were substituted? This has Torrington tines, but wondering if it was born with Raymac tines?

The Marcel curve makes for a very nice action. Completely different than the heavy action of my stage model!

Does anyone know anything else about a 1970 suitcase built in March?

- Alex

Hi all

When restoring a Rhodes '72 about a year ago, I bought the hammer tips from Vintage Vibe. At that time, they only had one option in stock, so naturally I ordered and used those. Now they have more choices, which is all good.

Now, I recently got a hold of an old suitcase piano. And when I opened it up, the hammer tips surprised me. In the bass end they were really high (higher than the ones I ordered at Vintage Vibe).

My '72 stage was always troubled by heavy action as the escapement was too great. Now I am realising that I could perhaps order some higher hammer tips, and remedy the problem that way, like it has been on my new suitcase?

What do you guys think?

– Alex

Hi guys

If I have a blown poweramp in my suitcase, and the driver transformer is blown as well, is it then safe to assume that my output transistors are gone as well? They arent blackened like the rest of or at least most of the resistors and PCB board...

- Alex

Hi

I just bought an old suitcase from '71. The amp is not working, but the previous owner used it in live shows, and told me it happened somewhat recently.

When I took a closer look at it, the power supply said 117 volt, 60 cycles, 2 amps.

In EU we use 230 volt, but US is 110 volts, right? So I don't get that voltage? Wouldnt it seem that the power supply was meant for the US then? But how have he been able to use it in Europe then?

I see that the power goes to two different black boxes, both labelled 115 volt. Is that the answer? 2 x 115 = 230 volt?

Any help explaining it would be greatly appreciated!

- Alex

Hey guys

I am using a Moog delay with me rhodes. The Z version. When I only run my rhodes straight through my delay and then amp, the delay amplifies itself into sonic mayhem when I reach 8 on the feedback knob. But when I plug the delay through the effects loop, I cant get it into the same crazy oscillation.

Is it normal that effect loose a little of their momentum when you use then through the effects loop of your amp?

My amp is the fender blues deluxe...

- Alex

Hi all

I just got a hold of a Blues Deluxe Reissue. Its wonderful, but when I play the note D#3, and sometimes the notes surrounding, the amp emits a high pitched noise. Often I can only hear it when the tubes get a little warm (within 5 min or so).

Is anyone familiar with this problem, and what could a solution be?

– Alex

Hey guys

Just wanted to say that I recently borrowed a Night Train and Lil Night Train from a buddy with the 112 cabinet matching the amps, for playing my Rhodes at home. It really sounds lovely. I kinda dig the more bright note you can get out of the Vox, as the Fender is usually so dark and mellow. And it comes to a crunch nicely. Not sure I would gig with the Lil Night Train, but the 15W version can really hold its own!

Just wanted to let everyone know, in case someone wanted some info on Rhodes and Vox.

Anyone else playing through their Vox amps?

– Alex

Hi all

Just noticed that my damper release bar is pushing slightly down on the damper arms in the leftmost bass octave on my '72 Rhodes. This is resulting in a loose bridal strap and I dont have enough clearance of the dampers, so getting clonks and donks when playing in the bass octave.

Is there a way to tighten up the straps, or what would be the best solution for this problem?

– Alex

Hi guys

Check around the 28:25 mark in this video. How would you say this sound is achieved? I think I can get in the vicinity by moving the tines closer to the pickups to get that hard overdriven tone. What do you think? Is there a way to amp your Rhodes to get this sound? It is awesome

Good concert too by the way!

– Alex

Hi guys

So this happened to one of my Rhodes legs. I don't know how thought. Is it possible to fix? Has any of you tried it?

Or is it a new leg for me?

– Alex

Hey guys

I only make music in my tiny apartment. I wanted to have a small setup, it doesn't have to go really loud, and I would like an amp that can handle a Moog Voyager and my DSI Tempest too. Not planning on gigging with this setup, so with that in mind, how do you guys feel about using a Twin Reverb for this? Just to jam in my apartment, and if I want, I can record something into my DAW, and take it from there using monitors in my separate studio and such.

Is it a really terrible idea? Will I blow a Twin Reverb using it with a drum machine and a synth? Even if the amp may never be turned past 3?

Any help is appreciated, as I dont have much space, and an amp vs. powered speakers and a audio interface would fit a little better space wise... (and the woman of the house appreciate the less complicated setup, less wires etc...)

– Alex

Hi all

I am considering buying a Fender Bassman Ltd for my Fender Rhodes. I am a little in doubt if it is the right buy though, as I live in a apartment in the city, and don't know if it will be overkill for me. I am mainly thinking about it because I think it will handle the lower registers better than a Twin Reverb, and I am almost positive that a Twin Reverb would be overkill for my living room (I would never be able to turn it past "2").

Do any of you guys run your Stage models through a Bassman, and if yes, how do you feel about it? Do any of you by any chance have some recordings of a Rhodes through a Bassman?

I would also love to try and put my Moog Voyager through the amp (at reasonable levels), and I also have a Dave Smith Tempest, that I would probably try and put through the amp as well. All the more reason I am looking at a amp that might be better suited at playing some lower registers. But keep in mind that it is all for home use, so I probably would be able to fire it all up.

Anyways, all help and advice is appreciated!

– Alex

Hi

A guy in my area is selling a complete set of keys from a Rhodes Mk2. I have a Mk1 from '72 with curved keys. His is flat.

I was wondering if his keys will fit into my older model rhodes?

There are several reasons for wanting to do this – his comes with the miracle mod from the factory, and the keys are flat, and a little nicer to play on.

– Alex

Hey guys

So I am in the final clear of having my Fender Rhodes '72 restored. I have installed pretty much everything (hammer tips, damper felts, miracle mod, new grommits etc), and now have to resolve the last issues, pertaining to the action.

My action is still kind of slow and heavy. It feels like I have to push the keys with too much force to get a tone out of it, limiting the dynamics of my playing. Now, the funny thing is that this heavyness is worse from the middle and down to the bass, making me think that maybe the harp is set too high.

But on the left harp support, I have some black rubber sitting – it looks like a factory job. And Im not sure Im too comfortable fiddling with that. I mean – what if there is something else I am missing?

So – I bought the medium balance rail felt. I shimmed all the keys to a keydip of 3/8".

I attached to images to this message. One is showing the escapement. You cant see it on the picture, but the escapement is around 0.7 inch. The damper is around 3/8 inch from the tine. The next picture shows the black rubber thing on the harp support.

Can anybody please chime in with some ideas on how to adjust to the proper escapement, so I can finally make some music on this damn thing? 

Hello

I just received three new tines – 41, 51 and 53. They all go in my '72 Stage model. The problem is that all three new tines suffer from poor sustain, making me think I am the problem, and not the tines.

Now, everything else is new in the piano – new hammertips, new damper felts and new grommets and screws on all the tonebars. Still the problems persists. I checked that the springs is not badly placed (not squashing the grommet), and that everything is installed as it should be.

The only thing I can think of could be the reason is that I cut them with a wirecutter, and have not filed them flat yet (see picture), but could that really have such a big impact on sustain?

The sustain even sucks when I just hold the tonebar in the end between two fingers and flick the tine, which makes me sure that the problem is not in the installation of the tonebar/tine, but the ACTUAL tonebar/tine.

Anyways, thanks for bearing with me this far. Does anyone have any suggestions?

– Alex

Ok, so I have heard a lot about that Marcel curve, but doesn't actually know how it looks like. Just took apart my '72 Fender Rhodes, and all my keys look like this picture.

So it isn't just flat, obviously my keys have a slope. But that is not the Marcel curve, is it?

Asking, as I'm contemplating putting in a Miracle Mod, but just need to know what I am dealing with here...

– Alex

Hi

Some of the tines in my '72 does not align horizontally correct to the pickup (see attached picture).

I have searched the forum, and most people recommend loosening the screw attaching the tine to the tonebar, and adjust the tine accordingly.

BUT when I check out Vintage Vibe's YouTube videos, they have one video stating the importance of the tines aligning up perfectly with the tonebar, without commenting on any issues regarding further alignment of tine to pickup.

So just wanted to ask in here, and get some answers from some experienced people perhaps:

Do any of you have any other solutions to this problem, and if not, have any of you noticed any timbre or sustain differences in a tine which is off alignment with the tonebar?

– Alex