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Topics - drpepper

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The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / How good is the Bump Mod?
« on: April 01, 2021, 07:48:13 AM »
I have been playing around with my action on the 1975 mk1 Rhodes, hybrid hammer, flat pedestal piano.

The bump mod improves it, but it doesn't feel natural to me or what I want.
I have tried to measure the improvements the Bump Mod offers with a rig I have setup.

This has led me to design my own bump/mod and I think I like a lot more - I have got action feeling similar to my WurliTzer action.
I still want to play around with the shape a bit more.

I have put what I have created in this youtube video

I am interested in what others with more experience think of my idea.

I did have to setup the escapement lower for this setup, but I finally have a dynamic range as seen in the video.

Parts, Service, Maintenance & Repairs / DIY £20 Wurlitzer Pedal
« on: February 13, 2021, 06:30:02 PM »
My Goal was to create a 3D printed Wurlitzer sustain pedal that would be affordable. The original design is reasonably basic, a wooden box with some cast fittings and what I guess is a motorbike clutch cable. When the pedal is pressed it pulls the cable that then pulls the exposed threaded rod on the bottom of the Wurlitzer piano and disengages the dampers.
With the prices of electric pianos sky rocketing, so have some of the accessories, there are original Wurlitzer sustain pedals for sale now with a buy it now that’s higher than I have paid for complete pianos.

Pedal Design

End Fitting Design

Parts List and Costs
•   PLA 1.75mm Filament £15/kg Total £4.52
o   Pedal – 56g - £0.84
o   Enclosure – 200g - £3.00
o   Access Door – 12g - £0.18
o   Cable Clamp – 1g - £0.02
o   Hose Clamp – 5g – £0.08
o   End Fitting – 17g - £0.26
o   Ferrule – 9g – £0.14
•   1x Spring
•   1x Bicycle Brake Cable – £3.99
•   1x 2mm Aluminium Sheet - £6
•   1x Self Adhesive Velcro Hooks
•   4x M3 x 20mm Socket Head Cap
•   2x M3 Nuts
•   2x M5 15mm Hex Head
•   2x M5 Nuts
•   1x ¼” UNC Nut *
•   1x M6 x 35mm Hex Head bolt
•   2x 3mm x 15mm Wood Screws
•   2x 3mm x 30mm Wood Screws

Note* - This nut is the most important item to get correct. Using the wrong size will damage the piano as it will damage the threads on the piano. A M6 nut will feel like it fits for a turn or two then it starts to damage the piano.
The parts I haven’t put a price on are stuff I have laying around. Though I don’t think these would add to much so I have assumed £5 for these are any good fastener specialist could gather up for you.

Pedal – Part Design

Pedal – Cable Clamp
Two M3 20mm bolts clamp the brake cable to the clamp. These do not require nuts as the tolerance is tight allowing the bolts to thread into the pedal.

Pedal Hinge
M6 35mm Bolt provides a pivot for pedal.

The clamp plate above the pedal features a bracket to allow the spring to connect the pedal and the enclosure.

Spring Connection on Pedal

Enclosure – Cable Outer Clamp
The enclosure has a removable side panel, that allows all the clamps and bolts to be inserted and adjusted.

Side Access Panel

End Fitting - Assembly

The brake cable needs to be threaded though the ferrule and then the ¼” UNC nut can slot into the end. The end fitting has a clamp to hold the brake cable outer. 2 x M3  20mm bolts are used in the clamp. The end fitting a little longer and wider than the original as this now made of plastic, the extra size makes up for the loss in material strength.

3d Printed End Fitting

Finished 3D Printed Pedal

Finished Pedal next to original Pedal
The 3D printed part is created in layers, these show up in the photos and can be felt with a finger, but during use this only adds grip.

Comparison with Original

Overall the weight of the peal has dropped significantly.
•   Steel replaced with aluminium for base plate
•   Rubber replaced with Velcro for grip surface
•   Metal replaced with plastic for pedal
•   Metal replaced with plastic for end fitting
•   Small diameter cable and housing

Print Time
•   22 hours.
o   Pedal – 3 hours
o   Enclosure – 13 hours (Compromises in print settings were made to reduce this)
o   Access Door – 1 hour
o   Cable Clamp –  1hour
o   Hose Clamp – 1 hour
o   End Fitting – 2 hours
o   Ferrule – 1 hour

The Enclosure Mid Print

As the pedal geometry is based on the original the pedal feels the same as the original. After a couple of hours playing, I saw no issues. 

The pedal performs just like the original for a fraction of the prices of a replacement. Will it last another 50years – I doubt it. Can it take the same load as the original – I also doubt it.
Does it cost a fraction of price and do the job it needs to – yes.

The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / What is in your lid?
« on: March 23, 2015, 06:17:24 PM »
I thought it could be a good idea to ask what people are currently keeping in their lids and what they ideally would keep in there if on tour. If you bought a piano have you aquire anything unplanned in the lid? Are there and stories of lid treasure saving the day?

Currently in my lid is-
Spare tines
original logo of the rhodes
spare hammer tips
spare damper with felts

When I aquired my piano it contained the missing parts for the piano action which was nice.
So nothing that exciting. What's in yours?

The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / Rhodes 73 1975 Suitcase Refurbishment
« on: January 09, 2015, 04:28:13 PM »
Just started work on my 1975 suitcase. I received it a well loved and used condition (ripped tolex, missing speakers, missing power amp, missing baffles, missing knobs, rusty hardware, missing hammers, chips out of cabinet, split cabinet, missing/worn dampers, preamp very very quiet).
I received it from the original owner who gigged it a lot, hence the scars.
Sadly as much as I enjoy the history that and the originally of the piano I think I needs a sprucing up to get it ready for the next 40 years of abuse.  I figured I would document my progress on here with any hints or tips for the next person tinkering with their tines.
First job - recovering the suitcase
i striped off the old tolex (this was harder than planned) the timber underneath was in a poor state with deep scratches and chips, additional holes and dents from the aluminium legs.

 To repair these I did consider wood filler, but due to the abuse this has seen I opted for car body filler as it adheres well and dries quickly. It also sands well to a good finish and deals with weather well so I won't have any lumps/dents when I recover it.

I cut some plywood to make the baffles using 1/2" for the rear and 3/8" for the front, covering it some sparkly grill cloth.

Some tolex and some shiny bits of metal and it's looking pretty sleek (ignore the clutter).

Does anyone have any recommendations for a replacement power amp to go in here? The original amps seem too expensive for what they are worth, I would like to get a 40-60W tube amp in there?

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