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Very good, thanks again Sean. I've done lots of cable soldering, just not much PCB stuff. I feel confident that I can get the components replaced properly and cleanly.

But I'm going to give this some thought. I'm weighing the cost of the complete kit + reed bar shields against something like the RetroLinear EP200 board which is $425 but includes the shields. Then, what would the results be? I've read a number of posts here where people have done pretty thorough overhauls of the amp components but still end up with a noisy amp. From what I understand the design of the old 200s is just not good. So I'd hate to put the time and energy into replacing components if I don't know that I'll get noticeably improved sound. thanks

Hi Sean,

Thanks so much for taking the time to give me such a detailed reply! I know that VV sells an amp repair kit that includes all the caps plus some other components. Are you familiar with this? For a newbie like me, would it make sense to go with this, or might it be better to order them individually, seeing that you mention some things like looking for low ESR, high ripple current and V ratings than listed, and radial-lead caps for the small ones?

Hi all, I've completed the regulation of my Wurly 200 (early model amp), and now looking to fix problems with my amp. I've disconnected the pickup, and wrapped and isolated the transformer leads in copper tape. So what I'm hearing is coming from the amp - a constant ground hum regardless of volume, and a lot of constant noise that increases with volume. The noise kinda fluctuates and sounds a bit crunchy. But the volume pot is not scratchy sounding. This is my first time troubleshooting PCB components. I'd love to get some advice, starting with troubleshooting and replacing  capacitors.

I want to learn to test the capacitors before just replacing them. I started by removing and testing three: the two large ones on the right side of the board (6 & 9), and one small one (11-1007, external amp). I tested them with a DMM set to capacitance, then also charged them with a 6V battery to see if they hold the charge
 
#9, the 500mfd blue one is in good condition (I think it must be newer).

#6, the 1000mfd silver 'Mallory' reads 1440mfd, a much higher capacitance value than expected. But it holds the correct charge.

The small 5mfd one seems bad. (pic #2) It reads 11mfd and only charges to 1.4V. Not sure if it looks leaky.

So...does the high capacitance of the Mallory mean it should be replaced? Or maybe it's OK?

And as for the small 5mfd, I'm looking for a replacement on Mouser's site and there are a few different types of electrolytic capacitors. But are all these considered aluminum?

Again,the BALANCE rail height (and thickness of back rail cloth) affects key height, the FRONT rail height affects the dip.

OK gotcha, I don't know why I mixed this up! Thank you for the clarification.

Thanks Steveo, I really appreciate your help! Is there a way to test or check the volume pot? It seems to function well, and isn't noisy when turning it.

The front rail shims have nothing to do with key height. They adjust key dip, prevent hammer blocking, and the green felt cuts down on noise.

Thanks for replying Steve. I was referring to these pants-shaped-looking cardboard piece shims underneath the rail, sitting right on the keybed. I removed them. But I did check key dip, which I need to adjust a bit. I have no front pin shims under the green felts. So I ordered a bag from Ebay.

And btw my amp has a very loud hum. Is there anything specific to this pcb that I should be aware of? I plan on shielding the AC mains going to the transformer. Thanks!

I'm looking at my 200 amp pcb - the reed bar pickup cable is soldered directly to the board. There's also a resistor connected to the signal lead. Can anyone explain what this means?

From what I've been reading, I thought all 200's had an RCA jack for the pickup cable. BTW mine is an early amp version, from 1968, serial 48147. pic attached.

After finding a needlenose pliers the right size, and removing the neighbor keys, I was able to turn the screws enough to get the wrench back on.

The center support bar, which is right close to the regulating let-off screw for keys 32 & 33, is preventing me from being able to fully turn the screws for both these keys. I don't have the full left-to-right range of motion. I've removed the adjacent keys to try and give me a bit more access to the screw but no luck. Is there any trick to doing this?

No, turning them does not change the spacing. They should be adjusted so the flatter sides are on the sides, the rounded are front and back. The balance rail pins can be gently tapped with a screwdriver and a hammer if keys are crooked, or too much space on one side, too close on the other. If front key bushings are very worn, you can try to turn the front pins a little to see if that tightens them up, but I don't really like doing this personally. It's better to replace the worn bushings.

Thanks for the reply. My front pins are all positioned well so I won't touch them.
I was looking at the key height. I have some shims under the front rail. When I measure from the keybed to just under the lip of the front of the keys I get a bit more than 2". I'm thinking to remove the shims and check the height without them.

I'm sorry, but I would not waste money on those key spacing tools. You may use common hand tools to achieve the same result, and you do not need to do this often. The main adjustment most Wurlitzers need is the Letoff adjustment. That tool is on eBay also.  It is rare for key height and other adjustments to be far off unless the piano is very worn out, or if someone messed around with it previously and did not know what they were doing.

Crooked keys can be adjusted by gently tapping the balance rail pin with a flat blade screwdriver and a hammer. Oblong front rail pins may be turned with needle nose pliers with the key (and its neighbors) removed.

Specific key spacing tools tend to break after using a few times.

Thanks for the reply Steve. I did buy the letoff tool, and I wasn't sure I needed the pin tool so it's good to hear your confirmation about that. I noticed the front rail pins were oblong shaped which is interesting. So, if I want to adjust key spacing I can turn these a bit? Somehow turning these pins doesn't seem like it would affect key spacing...don't they need to remain in their normal 'straight' position for the keys to function properly?

Very cool, thanks much!

That tool is the correct tool for bending the pins on an acoustic piano (the front pins are for spacing, the back pins are for tilting the key left and right). But that tool will not work with a wurlitzer because you can't remove the front key slip (the large lip in front of the keys) like you can on an acoustic piano.

Gotcha, thank you. How do you adjust key spacing? The manual says to use a forked key spacing tool.

Well I found my answer here on another thread, that the power cord has the wiring reversed.
https://ep-forum.com/smf/index.php?topic=6854.msg39519#msg39519

I'm replacing the 3-prong power connector (wall connector) on my 3 wire power cord. I want to be sure I'm connecting the black/hot white/neutral properly because I seem to see a discrepancy so I'm kinda confused.

Can someone confirm what the amp rail power connectors are?

On the amp rail there's a 4 pin connector with ground and 2 orange power wires (see pic). Starting from left is ground, then orange 1, then unused, then orange 2. Orange 1 goes to the fuse next to the power/volume pot - is this black/hot?. Orange 2 goes directly to the pot - is this white/neutral?

If so, then what doesn't make sense is the wiring of the connector on the short power receptacle cord that plugs into this connector (see 2nd pic). It's wired from left to right: green, white, unused, then black. Which would have the white and black wires reversed, assuming Orange 1 (the fuse wire) is black/hot. thank you!

OK cool, thanks very much for the info. I've read the regulation steps a few times now. I'll work in order and very carefully!

Regarding the key pins you mentioned, I was wondering about that. Steps 7 - square & level and 8 - space keys, both say to adjust the pins if needed. Step 7 says lightly tap the top of the balance rail pins (seems reasonable to do). But Step 8 says to bend the pins to adjust key spacing (which I would like to adjust, my key spacing is not even). What tool is recommended? I see there's a key-spacing tool here and it says to bend/turn the pin from under the rail, or at the base of the pin. Maybe a similar sized wrench would work?

First off, read the manual. Honestly, read it twice, all the way through. Then you can go to the third party websites for tips and tricks.  Following the steps in the manual should fix your mechanical issues. Don't worry about the signal until you get to tuning/voicing. You're regulating the action, getting it freed up and moving correctly, dialed in, etc. The paper shims are for setting the proper key height. Yes they are very thin. They range from thick to thin. Removing them just un-leveled all your keys (look from the side, they are probably all wonky now). That's a time consuming job. Read the manual before digging into anything else that may waste time later.

Having the right tools is paramount. Capstan wrench is needed. Paper shims also. Spare reeds potentially. Check for broken pieces of action too. There's a lot that goes into this, but dig in and have fun. If there's shims under the reedbar holes, take note of where they were. And most importantly, take your time!

Thank you for the reply! I did read through the manual and the regulation section seems really extensive on first read. But I'll start by going through it one step at a time.

As for the shims, dang I guess I messed up by not noting which keys they came from! These are super-thin circular cutouts, the thickness feels less thick than normal printer paper, more like tracing-paper-thin. I see there are 12 of them and they are all identical thickness. So I tested one by putting a key back on with a shim, and then the same key without the shim and honestly the height does not seem different. But when I put all the keys back I will carefully check again.

(I'm attaching a pic). Is it possible to confirm from the pic that these are used for height adjustments?

Hi folks,
I've got a model 200 that I bought for my recording studio back in the late '90s. (I owned a one room studio on B'way and Bleecker in NYC). I think I bought it from another studio so it's overall in decent shape. Manufacture date is March 5, 1968 handwritten on lowest key (thanks to the How To Date thread!).

It's got some uneven tone and action, and one key that is sticky. Also a bad buzz in the amp, but I'm gonna hold off on asking about the amp for the moment.

I've been reading a lot of threads here and looking at Tropical Fish and VV for great info. I started by removing the amp rail, the keys, and felts for the front and balance pins so I can give the keybed a good cleaning. Everything looks pretty good. I have a few questions to help get me started:

Without the amp connected I can't hear the electronic output (obviously). Is regulation a process that is done as a mechanical adjustment only, without concern for the output? So it's fine not to worry about hearing the amplified signal? I do plan on looking at the reeds and making tonal adjustments...but should I separate the mechanical work from the tonal work?

There were some thin paper circles under some of the small white felts on the balance pins. After removing these I read on Tropical Fish to note where these 'shims' were since they help to balance the keys. Of course I pulled them without making a note as to which keys they were on! Does this really make a difference? The paper is so thin I have a hard time believing they make a difference in key balance...but maybe?

I've read about lubing different parts, including the pins. ProTek CLP is recommended for the action so I plan on getting this. Before I put the keys back on should I lube all the pins using ProTek?

And lastly, what tools are unique to the regulation process that I should consider getting? I did read about a Let Off tool on Ebay, I think it is this one?

Thanks in advance!