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Messages - pianotuner steveo

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Acoustic piano hammers are way too large to be used in an ep.
You can't use upright parts in the manner you are talking about. It's just not possible.

The Wurlitzer Electric Piano / Re: Low volume and no vibrato on model 206
« on: November 16, 2020, 05:39:21 PM »
I don't remember how to do it, I've only done it once and I believe it was a 206A...

Anyone else know what's going on?

The Wurlitzer Electric Piano / Re: Low volume and no vibrato on model 206
« on: November 15, 2020, 05:24:17 PM »
Did you buy a vibrato kit or just a knob and pot? The 206 models do not have vibrato built in.

That's just about the craziest thing I've ever heard. I use some of those square foam interlocking pads for my keyboard in my basement to keep the dampness of the floor away. I wonder if something like that would be enough?

I'm not an electrical expert, but as you know, the voltage is more than double in the UK, so, that is a big factor. I was there once and at least 2 of the step down voltage adapters that my wife bought didn't work at all. I'm sure others will chime in, but I'm not sure what people have done in the past. Is there a more expensive, higher quality step down adapter available? I would look for one with an output voltage of 110-115v, not 120v if that is even possible.

Also, Ive seen resistors charred/ burnt, but I've never seen one melt...

Have you asked Grandma if you can buy it from her??

The Wurlitzer Electric Piano / Re: Another 120 Oddity
« on: September 05, 2020, 05:50:18 PM »
And remove the death cap!!

The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / Re: What's Wrong With My Rhodes?
« on: August 31, 2020, 06:31:34 AM »
I've never heard of Rhodes pickups making this noise. If you can solder, just try resoldering  the ground wire(s) for the pickups. You may want to ask VV if they've ever heard of an issue like this with their preamp.

Magnets and melodies: most Wurlitzer actions mainly need the Letoff adjusted. It's rare for other things needing adjustment unless mice were in it or someone that didn't know what they were doing messed with the action.
Just get the tool on eBay and learn how to do it yourself. It's much cheaper than hiring someone.

Who knows, maybe you will become a tech! That is pretty much how I started. My first Wurlitzer was almost unplayable when I bought it, and my first acoustic piano wouldn't stay in tune so
I took it upon myself to learn how to fix them!

Being a member of the PTG, I know a lot of piano techs, and as far as I know, I'm the only one within 100 miles or so that will touch them. Most piano guys refer to them as junk, or don't even know what they are. One of my friends (a tech) has offered me one for free, but it's been stored in a barn for years. I'm afraid to even see what's been living in it, but someday, I will look. (It's far away) it's either a 700 or a 720, he isn't sure.

Why would a piano guy refer you to an organ guy for the action? The action is basically a miniature grand piano action with some differences. Look for a different piano tuner. I'm the only one in my area that works on Wurlitzers, but not much call around here anymore. There should be someone near you that can do it.

There is not a lot of high end in a Wurlitzer.  The highest C is less than 3000 hz.
You may be able to bring out a little more bark with EQ and effects, but again, it has a lot to do with the reeds themselves. The 200A series(including 206A) uses thicker reeds than the 140s and non A 200s.

Also, NEVER file the hammer tips in a Wurlitzer. They are too small. Acoustic piano voicing involves filing and needling hammers. Never do this to a Wurlitzer, however.

The earlier non A 200's have better "bark"
There was recently a thread about this.

Hey congrats, and welcome to the forum. Tuning a Wurlitzer is not fun. To lower the pitch, first you can try adjusting the reed a little- if you loosen the mounting bolt, then slide the reed away from the bolt end, you may be able to drop the pitch enough. If not, solder needs to be carefully added to the solder pyramid. Be sure the reed does not short out against the sides of the pickup.

Early Letoff: if you do not own the Letoff tool, there is a guy on eBay that sells the best one available. ;D
The lower capstans that touch the keys will not help you, the upper capstans that cause the jacks to trip are the adjustments for Letoff. Yes, raising them towards the reeds will help. Only turn them a little at a time, it's easy to overcompensate. Middle E and F usually need help to turn them with long needle nose pliers.

I have no experience with replacing the electronics, but everyone who has done it seems to be happy with the results.

The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / Re: Parts and repair
« on: August 23, 2020, 06:13:52 AM »
The price of screws has gone way up the last couple of years. You may get a few for a buck these days, but not a box full. Do you have any least 1 that you can bring to a store to match up?

The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / Re: Manzarek's "Riders" iso track
« on: August 17, 2020, 06:12:23 PM »
If you look at the pics with the outtakes you can see it is definitely a stage piano. In at least one picture you can see the Wurlitzer that he used on a couple of tracks. (Queen of the Highway, I think?) and at least one track "Eye of the Storm" on Other Voices (post Morrison)

The Wurlitzer Electric Piano / Re: Need Help Diagnosing a 200A
« on: August 11, 2020, 06:13:05 PM »
No! Do not replace the cap with wire! That is bad. If the cap shorts out, that's virtually the same thing as putting in a piece of wire. Just remove it. It is likely far easier in the long run to buy the kit from VV. Make sure you install electrolytic capacitors according to the correct polarity.

Someone was throwing out a 200A? Wow. I found a 120 waiting for trash pickup once, but never a 200A!

Yes, I rescued the 120. I'm kicking myself for not keeping it though.

The Wurlitzer Electric Piano / Re: Wurlitzer 700 help
« on: August 11, 2020, 07:26:48 AM »
@ jam88, I think those wooden spacers were added by a previous owner. I've only seen the black rubber insulators/spacers on these early models. The later models have the whiteish plastic spacers.

Can anyone else that has seen /owns these early pianos chime in? Are your spacers black rubber?

Note to any newbies: Never replace these spacers with metal washers or you can short out your reed bar.

The Wurlitzer Electric Piano / Re: Wurlitzer 120 Line Out
« on: August 11, 2020, 07:20:59 AM »
V V sells, or at least used to sell a little box with an input and an output that connects to the headphone jack of the early Wurli models. I bought one years ago and it works great, it was inexpensive (at that time) also. I'm not sure if they still sell it.

The Wurlitzer Electric Piano / Re: Wurlitzer 700 help
« on: August 07, 2020, 07:07:36 PM »
Great idea!

The Wurlitzer Electric Piano / Re: Wurlitzer 700 help
« on: August 06, 2020, 05:46:03 PM »
Using 200 style dampers usually works since they are taller.

I personally don't see why you can't use hardware store washers as long as they are the same size and thickness. Maybe try a few just to see, and also try filing the threads on a few screws to see if you hear a difference. That would be a big job to file them all though...

I think that is correct, but you should get more opinions from guys who are better with electronics.
It's been almost 25 years since I worked on electronics on a daily basis.

I hope that you found a volume control with the power switch attached.. follow the wiring carefully!

Unplug the piano and take a photo before you disconnect any wires from the control.

You do mean the metal cap and the brown one next to it and not the red disc cap, correct?

The metal cap looks like an old electrolytic. Not 100% sure on the brown cap, but you did say that the amp is working, so it is likely correct.

Is that red disc cap the "death cap"? It's hard to tell where it's connected. The disc cap is not polarized.

The death cap that should be removed connected to the AC jack or fuse on one side and chassis ground on the other. Bad news if it shorts out.

The springs come in different sizes, they don't all look exactly the same. The far left tines use larger springs, and yes, sometimes 2 on one tine like David suggested. You may be using a spring from higher up in the keyboard. Do you have any more springs?

Any speaker that is working will register continuity. The voice coil is just that- a coil of wire.
If the amp works, don't be too concerned with continuity on the harness.

The hum may be coming from the volume control. A worn control can cause this, but usually it is a loud hum.

It probably is best to leave it since it doesn't seem to be hurting anything.

Anyone else ever seen this wax?

The fuse should be inline with the hot (black) wire. Remove the "death cap" if it is there ( I didn't see it)  it serves no purpose. The green wire goes to chassis ground. In a modern, 3 wire socket, the black is the smaller prong, the white (neutral)  is the larger prong.  I do not know about the wax, I've never seen that.

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