Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.


Messages - pianotuner steveo

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 116
1
Where did the clip go? I'd like to hear it... I too have a Gibson G101

2
The Wurlitzer Electric Piano / Re: Chemical fluids
« on: December 02, 2019, 08:22:21 PM »
Yes, I mix protek with denatured alcohol too for removing moisture. The other techs in the PTG looked at me funny when I told them this.

3
The Wurlitzer Electric Piano / Re: Chemical fluids
« on: November 29, 2019, 01:30:34 PM »
The modern version of this solution is sold to piano technicians as "Protek" CLP.
We do not use the highly flammable naphtha solution anymore. You can buy Protek on eBay.

A 4oz. bottle lasts a very long time. You may apply with a hypo Oiler or even with Qtips.

4
Did the transformer smoke or at least smell like it was burning?
A little different, but,
I once had a transformer for an overhead flourescent ceiling light overheat and started smoking. Tar was leaking out too. Luckily, I knew how to remove it and threw it in a snow bank outside. It was so hot that I had to use oven mits to take down the light....

5
The Wurlitzer Electric Piano / Re: Stuck Hammer
« on: November 17, 2019, 02:08:39 PM »
Awesome!

6
I did have one power transformer go bad, but it opened up, not shorted. It's possible yours failed due to old age, but it's too risky to just replace that part and hope for the best. You may need a pro amp tech troubleshoot it before you start buying parts.

7
The Wurlitzer Electric Piano / Re: Upper Register Sustain
« on: November 11, 2019, 09:36:54 AM »
David, won't the shim break the ground connection? Or alter it enough to cause an audio issue? ( the reed bolt should still ground it, but not perfectly)

8
The Wurlitzer Electric Piano / Re: Stuck Hammer
« on: November 10, 2019, 06:28:21 AM »
You may be able to loosen the reed bar half that is causing this and slightly bump the reed bar away from the hammer that is sticking, but the issue may come back once you tighten the reed bar screws.


Thanks Cormac! These are the hammer mounting screws.

9
The Wurlitzer Electric Piano / Re: “Tink” sound when hitting key
« on: November 10, 2019, 06:17:20 AM »
The hammer tip can not be worn down to the wood in this part of the piano. The blackened spot is not causing this. It is pretty normal for the hammer tips to look like that. Only the highest hammers can be worn down to the wood.

I did not mean the reed could be hitting the pickup. I meant that the pickup could be bent away from the reed in a way so that the volume could be lower. But that may not be it either.

Is this sound being amplified or do you only hear it when the volume is turned way down?

10
The Wurlitzer Electric Piano / Re: Stuck Hammer
« on: November 10, 2019, 06:10:48 AM »
Unfortunately, getting at the screw to do this simple repair is the hard part. The story of my life with acoustic pianos also! The screw is at the back of the hammer assembly and it faces up towards the top of the piano. The problem is the dampers and the reed bar are in the way. Later today, I will send a picture of the exposed screw in question to Cormac so that he can post it.

11
The Wurlitzer Electric Piano / Re: Upper Register Sustain
« on: November 10, 2019, 06:02:40 AM »
Yes, even acoustic pianos are like this too, but it's far more notes. People complain of this all the time.
There is nothing that can be done.

12
The Wurlitzer Electric Piano / Re: “Tink” sound when hitting key
« on: November 07, 2019, 06:20:34 PM »
It would be almost impossible for a hammer that low to be worn down to the wood. Maybe the pickup is bent?

13
The Wurlitzer Electric Piano / Re: “Tink” sound when hitting key
« on: November 06, 2019, 08:21:21 AM »
What note is doing this?

14
The Wurlitzer Electric Piano / Re: Stuck Hammer
« on: November 06, 2019, 08:19:30 AM »
Yes, I asked if the key dip is deeper than the other keys, did you check that? If so, do what Docwurly said..

If that's not it, the tip of the jack could be getting caught in the felt on the bottom of the hammer/whip. The felt could possibly be partly unglued.

15
The Wurlitzer Electric Piano / Re: “Tink” sound when hitting key
« on: November 05, 2019, 06:09:09 PM »
That possibly is it, I assume this is a high treble note? Hammer felt is not like felt you buy in a craft or fabric store. You may want to ask a local piano tuner for a stronger piece of felt for this, or you can try to replace it. You heat the glue joint to remove the hammer tip with a soldering iron.

16
The Wurlitzer Electric Piano / Re: Stuck Hammer
« on: November 05, 2019, 06:05:49 PM »
With the power OFF, ( better yet, unplugged) gently, and I mean gently, nudge the hammer away from the crossbar with a thin screwdriver. If that solves the problem, then eventually you will need to loosen the hammer mounting screw, align the hammer away from the crossbar,  then tighten it. If you are really lucky, a gentle nudge may solve the issue for a long time..

No, this does not sound like a Letoff issue, and has nothing to do with lost motion.
One more thing to check- does that key press down deeper than the others?


17
DOAH!!
Somehow I forgot about the first post in the thread! (referring to an old manual)

18
There is a difference between a well performing heavier action and an action that is heavy due to sluggishness caused by tight bushings, etc. I'm thinking this particular Rhodes was sluggish due to humidity as I said before. That could explain the weights.

19
The Wurlitzer Electric Piano / Re: Wurly 112 Opinons.
« on: October 24, 2019, 07:43:14 PM »
I concur with DocWurly.

20
The Wurlitzer Electric Piano / Re: Wurly 112 Opinons.
« on: October 23, 2019, 06:55:23 PM »
Why do you need to loosen the reeds? The reed mounting bolt heads are very easy to snap...Especially if rusted. I wouldn't remove them unless absolutely necessary.
Loosening these bolts will also change the tuning, so keep that in mind- although maybe not as much in a 112 as in later models. (I don't remember if the 112 has the concave washers)  if so, reinstall with the hump side UP.
If you must remove any, flip the reed bar over and lubricate the threads from the bottom. I am speaking from experience with 120's and later, I am assuming 112's are the same way. I have played 112's, but have never serviced one. After the oil soaks in, use a socket wrench or closed end box wrench - you want a wrench that grips all sides of the bolt head at once.

I still wouldn't just spray oil on the reed bar even if disconnected. You would really need to wipe it all off to prevent shorts. If you miss small spots, it will either make that annoying crackling noise that dust/dirt/ and condensation can cause, or worse, it could damage the electronics.

21
The Wurlitzer Electric Piano / Re: Wurly 112 Opinons.
« on: October 22, 2019, 09:44:35 PM »
Absolutely do not spray any type of oil on the reeds. The reed bar pickup uses about 150vdc, and you will short it out if you do this. The reed pickups are not passive like a Rhodes or electric guitars.
You can gently clean the reeds with a qtip with a tiny bit of oil, but if you don't know what you are doing, it may be better to leave them be.

22
The early Rhodes action was very sluggish and felt nothing like an acoustic piano. The Mark V felt more like an acoustic.
The only reason I can think of for someone putting the weights in was possibly to cause the keys to return faster. Of course easing keys and protek should help this, but maybe that Rhodes was in a damp basement or other similar place.

23
The Wurlitzer Electric Piano / Re: 206a - no sound
« on: October 18, 2019, 02:11:03 PM »
It could be a broken trace or cold solder joint(s) on the amp board.
Have you reflowed the solder connections?

24
The Wurlitzer Electric Piano / Re: 206a - no sound
« on: October 17, 2019, 09:56:28 PM »
Was it working before? Did it quit suddenly, or were you working on it with the power on?
It could be fuses, but it could be many other things also...
Trouble spots tend to be where connectors are

25
That is hilarious! I've actually put those weights in some early Wurlis with a super light action, and some cheap spinet pianos for the same reason. But never in a Rhodes...


26
How many front rail pins do you need?

27
You can use acoustic piano parts from Vandaking. Much easier and cheaper than trying to find originals. Original springs will be just as old as the ones you want to replace anyway.  Make sure you buy springs meant for spinet or console pianos. NOT full size upright springs. The Wurlitzer action is just a miniature acoustic piano action, (sort of) these parts are interchangeable. I think they only charge .14 cents per spring!

These spring are a pain to change. You really should remove the whip assembly from the piano first. Use wood glue to replace. Make sure you get all of the old spring out. They do sell a reamer but you probably do not need it. I would start with the few that are not working properly, don't just take all 64 out at once unless you really want to go that far. Needle nose pliers help remove the old springs. (Wrap the old spring around the pliers and lift out) Are you sure that the jacks just don't need protek on the center pins?

The rail pins come in 2 different sizes too, match up the closest possible. (I think it's the shorter one) If they are too  long the keys may stick. These are just pressed into holes, but a drop of glue may be needed if holes are oversized. Be sure not to mount crooked, they are oblong.

28
I really don't there is much of a weight difference. That came in with the plastic case on the Mark V

29
No, this is not inferior. Some differences, yes, but it says it is complete. It sounds like a good deal, but look inside, test it out. Everything is repairable, but test every key to be sure there are no dead pickups. I believe this will have the bump in the pedestals, making it easier to play than the earlier sluggish actions.

30
 Can't wait! Thanks for posting this, Alan!

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 116