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Messages - 4kinga

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1
The Wurlitzer Electric Piano / Re: 120 model, not far off
« on: April 07, 2021, 07:40:36 AM »
I'll let other more knowledgeable people chime in, but that looks very scary.

2
The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / Re: How good is the Bump Mod?
« on: April 02, 2021, 08:13:25 AM »
Wow indeed!
Very thorough.  I'll be watching this more closely for the next posts/videos.

3
I felt the same way about my Mark II until I adjusted the strike line and added shims in lower register.  It made a world of difference in sound and feel.

4
For Sale / Leg pieces
« on: June 10, 2020, 10:35:28 AM »
I have two leg pieces that are broken.
1 is a front leg without the top or knurl.
1 is a rear leg with out the top.

Free to anyone who wants to cover shipping.

5
The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / Re: 1970 Suitcase 73
« on: June 10, 2020, 10:33:01 AM »
That's pretty neat!

6
You could try by-passing the volume pot all together.   Simply unsolder the wires (audio, not AC!) and twist them together.

7
There was talk a few years(?) back about using a push-pull potentiometer to by-pass the passive panel components.  I don't recall if anyone ever completed that.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/POTENTIOMETER-PUSH-PULL-SWITCH-POT-GUITAR-10K-LIN-SPLIT-SHAFT-LINEAR-V164L4-/271184505955 possibly?

8
Preamps, Modifications & Upgrades / Re: DIY Peterson preamp (tremolo) pedal
« on: November 15, 2019, 12:29:52 PM »
Nice!
Count me in!

9
Other Keyboards & Software Synths / Re: CP70 Chain lengths
« on: October 09, 2019, 08:41:49 AM »
Thanks!
I'll give that a try tonight.

10
Other Keyboards & Software Synths / CP70 Chain lengths
« on: October 07, 2019, 01:52:53 PM »
My CP70m doesn't have sustain pedal chains.
Could someone please measure theirs?
I love the piano, but the wandering sustain pedal drives me nuts!

11
Sounds to me like the hammer tips need to be replaced.

Search VV, Clavinet.com, etc. (I'm not affiliated with anyone)

Not too difficult to replace.  Cleaning can be a mess if they're really gummy and deteriorated, though.

12
Buying / Re: WTB: 1972 Buz Watson Rhodes Stage piano
« on: January 03, 2019, 04:02:21 PM »
Let us know if the hype is real!

13
The lead wire (on the first wrap, not the last unfortunately!) closest to the mounting screw corrodes and eventually breaks. It can be hard to see sometimes. 
For testing, I just clipped a lead onto the treble end, played a chord in the middle and started working the other end down the pickups at random intervals until I heard sound.  Then I worked my way backup each pickup from there until I found the open pickups.  Not so scientific, but I found them!

14
I had this happen when a few pickup coils opened up near the end/beginning of a series.  I used an alligator clip jumper to locate the break and replaced those pickups from there.  (Actually, it was at a gig.  I left the jumper on to make it through and replaced them later.)

15
It could be the internal battery (Usually a cr2032 or the likes).  I've seen some synths go completely wonky when the battery dies.

16
The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / Re: Strike line on a Mark II
« on: March 23, 2018, 09:07:41 AM »
They are graduated, with wood core on the treble end.

17
Sean,
Did you make those face plates?  Those are great!

18
The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / Name Rail Modifications
« on: March 21, 2018, 09:22:13 AM »
I wonder, if most prefer running a direct signal off the harp on a Stage Rhodes, why are we not drilling a direct output on the name rail and installing a shunted 1/4" output?  Maintaining stock aesthetics of the original name rail?

With the all of the talk of the Bass or Tone control knob excessively coloring the signal in negative ways, a non-invasive, easily revertible option might be removal of the knob and installing a shunted 1/4" there? (Obviously with washers due to hole size.)

edit: I hadn't seen sean's post here https://ep-forum.com/smf/index.php?topic=9793.msg54382#msg54382.  I really like the drop-in replacement faceplates!

19
Other Keyboards & Software Synths / Re: Mute Slider
« on: March 21, 2018, 09:13:59 AM »
When playing in a live situation, I don't really use the mute.

When playing at home or recording, I do end up using it to a degree.

I guess this could also be akin to "why do we keep the Bass controller on the face plate of a Stage Rhodes"!

20
The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / Re: Strike line on a Mark II
« on: March 21, 2018, 09:09:14 AM »
Interesting point.  I'll take a look at that tonight. 

The prior treble distance was very shallow: a little less than 1/4".  (I had to adjust all treble dampers after.)  I'll try removing the shim and see and listen to the difference. (The shims are just washers right now.)

For reference, I had to move the harp about 5/16" back on the bass and 3/8" on the treble.  No shim on the bass (measured 3/8" hammer distance) and a 3/16" shim on the treble.

21
The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / Re: Strike line on a Mark II
« on: March 19, 2018, 11:09:20 AM »
Thanks for the info, Sean. 
If I'm drilling, I might as well drill four holes and lock it in.  (Although, I don't plan on moving it any time soon.)  Hopefully, I'll get to this next weekend.

22
Buying / Re: WTB: Clavinet D6 parts
« on: March 19, 2018, 11:07:04 AM »
Where did you find the black metal rail for the sheet music stand!?

23
The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / Strike line on a Mark II
« on: March 18, 2018, 01:36:52 PM »
I have a Mark II.  The action always felt nice and tight, but the sound was always dull with little dynamics.  I replaced the hammer tips to no avail.  Adjusting pickups helped a little.

This weekend, I adjusted the strike line. Wow!  It came alive with great dynamics, tone and bark.  I had to shim the treble end about 3/16".  Now that its adjusted, I need to mount the harp.  However, on the Mark II, these are aluminum rails with tapped holes that machine screws go into.  Also, the location of these new holes are close to the original holes on the bass end of the harp.

My questions are:
- Should I make new holes in the harp to get the mounting holes far enough away from the original holes in the aluminum.
- Does anyone have any hints on tapping the aluminum?

24
Other Keyboards & Software Synths / Re: Mute Slider
« on: March 18, 2018, 10:54:38 AM »
Yup, I forgot to verbalize the intended device.  A Clavinet D6 mute slider.

I checked VintageVibe's site and didn't see it.  I'll contact them.

Thanks!
~andy

25
Other Keyboards & Software Synths / Mute Slider
« on: March 16, 2018, 12:59:39 PM »
I was wondering if anyone has any of these for sale.  Or, has anyone created a CAD/maker file for 3D printing?

Or, if you have a mute slider, would you give me the dimensions?  I'll create the CAD file from there.

Thanks!

~Andy

26
Amps, Effects & Recording Techniques / Re: Leslie 147 motor bad noise
« on: February 02, 2018, 07:10:43 AM »
It could also just be a slow motor adjustment or a bad/worn o-ring.  Either way, take the back off and watch the upper stack when switching.

27
To stretch or not to stretch.....

28
I play my '73 through a PR-40 at home.  I found an amp from a suitcase and wired that in.  Always said I was going to make a circuit for the triple necklace reverb.  Still haven't got around to that one, yet.

29
The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / Re: Tolex colour
« on: June 30, 2017, 08:13:37 AM »
I've seen the tweed ones.  Those are classy!




30
The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / Re: Is it worth the buy? Pt. II
« on: June 26, 2017, 08:25:31 AM »
For comparison, there is a very good MKII in NH for $1800.  Even comes with spare tines and the original vinyl leg bag. 

https://nh.craigslist.org/msg/6187865320.html

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