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Messages - Tim Hodges

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That’s right, if it’s a Pro-Piano for a MK2 they used an aluminium foil sticker. This is due to the width of the MK2 faceplate.

The Pro-EQ and Pro-Piano MK1 are aluminium faceplates.

Funnily enough I’ve been doing a fair bit of work around re-making Dyno Faceplates and the power circuit for a couple of restorations.

In the next few days I should have my new PCBs come in to replace the toasted one I had come in.

Will update the thread later on with some pictures.

The satin chrome finish was from later pianos, a similar thing occurred with the legs.

The Wurlitzer Electric Piano / Re: Hum Shield Tips?
« on: April 03, 2020, 08:31:32 AM »
How much damper tape do you already have on it?

I usually set the height of the damper bar by using two fingers inbetween the reed bar and the damper bar. If it's hitting the lid then you can raise those 2 larger lid machine screws at the front to give you a bit more height. It's about finding the right combination.

The Wurlitzer Electric Piano / Re: Wurlitzer 200A - 3D model
« on: March 24, 2020, 05:06:43 AM »
Alex, have you tried Marcel at

He may be able to source you a few parts, he has done that for me a few times.

Other Keyboards & Software Synths / Re: Clavinet D6 rare preamp
« on: March 12, 2020, 05:12:17 AM »
My bet is that this clavinet is 1978, based on the use of that IC.

Other Keyboards & Software Synths / Re: Clavinet D6 rare preamp
« on: March 12, 2020, 05:03:22 AM »
First time I've seen one without it. Would love to know more about the Clavinet and if you have anymore pictures / serials that would be amazing. There might be a date stamp on the volume pot which would help date it massively.

Other Keyboards & Software Synths / Re: Clavinet D6 Logo restoration
« on: March 03, 2020, 03:29:31 PM »
The printing on the tolex is really impressive. Good work!

Fingers crossed for the re-tolexing, have to admit I've found it tricky on the D6.

The Wurlitzer Electric Piano / Re: 206 Amp Backwards Capacitors?
« on: February 20, 2020, 02:42:18 PM »
Can you take a photo of the underside of your board?

The Wurlitzer Electric Piano / Re: 206 Amp Backwards Capacitors?
« on: February 20, 2020, 07:44:06 AM »
So the main power supply caps are fine (those 3 large Mallory's)

Are you talking about the axial electrolytics on the left hand side? Are the negative leads going to ground? I have some photos of a later 1974 board but not all are clear.

Those plates should be under the lip of the damper rail. Insert them first then screw the other side in.

Unfortunately we can't see the image (it appears to be set to private)

There should be a plate held in by 2 screws either side of the damper bar which prevent the pins from moving. Are these missing?

This is perfectly normal. It's not about whether the harp sits parallel with the support.

The way the harp has been setup is to ensure that the bottom, middle and top hammers all hit the tine sweet spot so it rings out perfectly.

The angle at which the harp is sitting on the support doesn't matter as long as it sounds good.

Try the bottom part of this page:

DMI Most likely represents Dallas Musical Instruments (formerly Dallas Arbiter) in the UK. They also made Sound City guitar amps and these photos do look very simillar to guitar amps around that time.

The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / Re: Worn balance rail holes
« on: January 03, 2020, 05:53:13 AM »
If they were really bad and you needed them fixing I've seen repairs where they've taken a notch out of the bottom of the key and glued / pinned a new section of wood and re-drilled the hole. It's a lot of effort but I'm sure you might find a piano workshop which could do the work.

The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / Re: Refurbing a 1974 Suitcase Preamp
« on: December 13, 2019, 06:15:35 AM »
Here's the schematic.

So even with the vibrato off both bulbs are not on?

Using your multimeter you should chase the 25v supply and see at what point does it stop in the vibrato circuit. Seems strange that both of them are gone so it points to an area upstream. I'd check from the 4 pin din then work your way from there.

Sounds like the tar has gotten hot at somepoint during it's life and leaked from the transformer. Possibly due to a bad tube or electrolytics drawing too much voltage, doesn't mean that the transformer is toast (as you have confirmed you're still getting voltages) it's probably best to get it checked over by a tech anyway.

I've had a few problems with 200 / 200a transformers not due to tar leaking but them developing an audible hum. This is down to delamination of the steel plates where the resin used to keep the plates together within the transformer winding becomes brittle and starts to oscillate. I've found 2 out of 3 N.O.S. replacements I bought had given me this issue.

I’ve heard about this before, tricky one but we can vouch for Tom as I’m sure it’s related to the eighty eight key range of his suitcase.

Bought some parts a while back and the seller threw in an old scanned paper copy of the parts list.

I've scanned it, cropped what I can and rotated it if anyone is interested.

It contains a list of parts for 200 series pianos, schematic and board layouts for 200a (including wiring) and a guide showing the tuning of reeds over the keyboard by cents which I haven't seen in the existing guides.

Wurlitzer Service Parts List

Please don’t rip it apart.

I'm with Dan. There are plenty of MK2's around, not many EK-10's and whilst they might not be the most desirable of Rhodes they are rarer than some.

If you're not keen on getting it fixed perhaps someone will trade you or alternatively you can sell it and try and get a different model.

It might be worth it to re-flow the solder on the 6 and 8 pin connectors mounted to each of the two amplifier boards of the power amp. These are notorious for causing issues like you are experiencing. This would also be in line with OZDOC's suggestion of possible loose components. You might want a tech to do it, bad soldering jobs can cause more damage if you are not familiar with soldering circuits.

Agreed, also some hot glue applied to the base of the connector and the PCB can give it some rigidity to reduce the risk of it happening again.

Speaking from experience in my early days I made a terrible mess of some of my gear by lifting tracks using a cheap soldering iron and lack of knowledge. A temperature controlled soldering iron is definitely the best investment and some 60/40 solder. Draper's 61478 40W soldering station is a very good model if you need one.

The Wurlitzer Electric Piano / Re: 206a - no sound
« on: October 21, 2019, 03:50:38 PM »
Do you get sound from the aux or headphone jack?

I would remove the name rail with the pre-amp first (there will be 2 screws for each cheekblock) the preamp should have a detachable connector to the left power supply cheekblock if you undo that then you can remove the rail and look at the preamp with a bit more space.

The foil you can bend back to check the electronics, it's a very simple preamp so there's not really much to go wrong. Check the 9V leads to make sure there's no breaks and if you can't see any immediate problems I'd then look to the power supply and battery switch within the cheek block.

That is very kind of you vcf4012, well I have little experience compared to Jon Furland but let's take a crack.

Do you have photos of the version you have? Dyno made a few different revisions from what I've seen (Pro Piano, Pro EQ) and a few variations within that.

The pro-eq runs off 2 9v batteries in series and alternately has a half bridge rectifier on board so you can use a 18v AC adaptor (definitely not DC)

The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / Re: Passive Electronics Fix
« on: October 10, 2019, 07:33:24 AM »
No worries Jack, glad to hear you got it fixed.

The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / Re: Passive Electronics Fix
« on: October 09, 2019, 03:36:10 PM »
If you want Jack I have a spare original stage preamp you can have for £25 inc postage.

If you do I’ll give it a once over and clean the pots and re-solder it to be safe.

The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / Re: Passive Electronics Fix
« on: October 08, 2019, 07:34:27 AM »
Is that orange lead spanning the end and middle terminal on the bass boost? (It's hidden by the cap)

Not too far at all!

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