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Messages - Tim Hodges

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Have you tried re-soldering the Molex connector sockets on the boards? They often develop cracks in the solder joints.

I’d be reluctant to sanding the pedestals. If they aren’t flat it could have a negative side effect on the pins of the hammers and on the way the hammer rolls on the pedestal.

As you have a 1976 I would suggest instead removing the felt from the cams and instead installing it on the pedestal as the friction between felt and the Teflon infused hammer will be much less than compared to felt rubbing against wood.

The difference in hammer height when at rest is down to a combination of pedestal height differences and wear in the felt. The former plays more of a part.

Take a few keys out which seemingly have the hammers at varying heights and you’ll notice a difference in the measurements. I can only guess this is down to manufacturing tolerances when the keys were made. Vintage Vibe showed a video recently where they used a mini hand plane on the bottom of the key to match the heights. If I were to do it I would probably remove the felt and make a jig and use a router to remove the excess from the pedestal (though you have to ensure it is perfectly even)

For London I would probably go with Ryan Margolis at

Might be worth seeing if you have a metal plater near you, it costs very little to get the original zinc plating with a yellow passivate finish. Platers will usually dip it in an acid bath beforehand so saves you a lot of time in cleaning.

This is a set I had done recently:


Also, I see that not all of the hammers are sitting square on the pedestals - some are off to one side such that they hang a bit over the edge. This is not something I can imagine is easy to adjust since it would likely mean adjusting the position of the action rail and since the adjustment would be quite small it would cause problems with the existing screw holes.

In fact this is actually quite easy to adjust.

First you need to remove the harp and remove the damper bar.

Next using a long screwdriver inbetween the damper comb arms  loosen the big machine screws which hold the aluminium action rail down to the keybed.

Next loosen the 2 big black nuts on each harp support.

Move the action rail and harp supports left or right and line  up the action rail with the majority of the pedestals until you are happy with each key then re-tighten.

Oh dear


I'm not sure but I think the balance felts, or rather lack of them, might be contributing.

So underneath the keys on the balance rail pins there are no white felts with those paper punchings?

With an aluminium action rail you can still shim it. Just need find a suitable shim made of something like wood from a modellers shop which won’t easily compress or some thick gauge card.

Looking to increase the dip a little bit. Did you re-shim the harp supports to set the key dip or was that more for escapement? I think I've read that quite a few people remove the factory particle board ones - something about them being generic and not really the right thickness for each individual instrument.

Changing the thickness of the particle board on the top of the harp supports changes escapement. That is also known as the distance between the top of the hammertip to the underside of the tine with the key pressed down. Too small a distance between them and they will choke and break quicker. Too far between them and the action will feel spongy and more difficult to play.

Chi can you post some photos of the mod?

The best stuff to remove glue from the hammer cams is methylated spirits. Over here in the U.K. it’s purple and has an absolutely terrible smell but is perfectly safe for the plastic hammers, in Norway you will know it as rødsprit. With the hammer combs out or the entire action rail off you can easily get to them in one go. They need to be completely free of residue before re-installing.


Is there a special tool needed to adjust the balance rail key pins for squaring the keys?

Thanks again!

A word of warning don’t use pliers. I typically use one of those screw drivers which has an empty shaft for using removable bits. Put the key pin in the shaft of the screwdriver and gently lever the key pin (only if required) and in as few steps as possible as you don’t want to damage the hole.


Just in case if you need to know how to go through it here's the standard method. During a service changing the grommets, screws and damper felts is a good start and will definitely help with the alignment, you can also adjust the pickup as well.

Set key dip:

Standard is 3/8", this measurement comes from measuring the top of the key cap from its resting position to the top of the key cap when it is fully depressed (but not going in to aftertouch.) If it's already at 3/8" then you're good to go on the next step.

Square key tops:

Over time the keys can become angled (when looking at them from the front) you can make adjust their position by very gently adjusting the balance rail key pin with the key removed.

Set key height:

Now that each individual key cap is level and not at an angle you can now level the entire keybed with paper shims. Once you've got them all at the right height place the felt washer above the shims to prevent wear to them. The factory used to leave the paper shims on top to save time during manufacturing, you wouldn't see this on an acoustic piano.

Remove action from case:

For the next step you need to remove the entire action from the case and take the harp off.

Install miracle mod:

See Ben Bove's amazing post which goes in to all the detail you'll ever need on it: Here

Install damper felts:

Depending on how much a customer can spend and the condition of the dampers sometimes new dampers are required as the old ones become quite tired. If purchasing a new set is completely out of the question you can always remove the originals and level them out. When out of the action I often use acetone to clean the remaining glue for a fresh install of felts. EP-Service or Electric-Keys do full sets for a small amount. The felts when installed should have the grain running horizontally to prevent chirping (I think the treble is the exception.) Vintage Vibe do a good video on this.

Set escapement:

My prefered method to adjust the escapement is by keeping all the tonebars at the standard 3/8" height measured from the wooden harp to the underside of the tonebar. You can then adjust the overall escapement of the piano by using the two fibre shims on each harp support. Ideally you want the measurement between the hammer tip and the tine when depressed to be 1/4" to 3/8" in the bass and 1/32" to 3/32" on the highest note.

Set strikeline:

Remove the harp pivots on both sides and remove the 2 screws which hold the bass side down and the bottom screw from the treble side. Carefully adjust the position of the harp on the supports until you feel the notes ring out and sound pleasant. See here for more details.

Tune / Voice

Fender Rhodes technotes are your friend:

I would suggest going through each of these steps and see what you might want to do depending on the situation.

All the best

Thanks Jenzz!

One thing I forgot to mention is that it’s UV printed on anodised aluminium. It allows the design to be printed on the metal surface and then it’s sealed with a protective layer. Much better than silkscreening and it’s resistant to scratching and peeling unlike the originals.

Over the past few months I've had to restore a few Dyno preamps with damaged faceplates. As a result I've decided to remake the range of them for future repair work. I still need to make a few revisions but if anyone is interested please feel free to PM me for more details. Pricing for the Pro Piano and Pro EQ faceplates are £25, Tri-Stereo £30 and the Chorus £15.

MK1 Pro-Piano (looks black but is actually dark blue)

MK2 Pro-Piano

Tri-Stereo Tremolo



More Images

Hi Craig,

I’m rebuilding a customers power amp which needed one.

E-T-A’s 106-M2-P10-2A is a perfect fit, pricey but it’s not worth putting a cheap one in which could fail.

That’s right, if it’s a Pro-Piano for a MK2 they used an aluminium foil sticker. This is due to the width of the MK2 faceplate.

The Pro-EQ and Pro-Piano MK1 are aluminium faceplates.

Funnily enough I’ve been doing a fair bit of work around re-making Dyno Faceplates and the power circuit for a couple of restorations.

In the next few days I should have my new PCBs come in to replace the toasted one I had come in.

Will update the thread later on with some pictures.

The satin chrome finish was from later pianos, a similar thing occurred with the legs.

The Wurlitzer Electric Piano / Re: Hum Shield Tips?
« on: April 03, 2020, 08:31:32 AM »
How much damper tape do you already have on it?

I usually set the height of the damper bar by using two fingers inbetween the reed bar and the damper bar. If it's hitting the lid then you can raise those 2 larger lid machine screws at the front to give you a bit more height. It's about finding the right combination.

The Wurlitzer Electric Piano / Re: Wurlitzer 200A - 3D model
« on: March 24, 2020, 05:06:43 AM »
Alex, have you tried Marcel at

He may be able to source you a few parts, he has done that for me a few times.

Other Keyboards & Software Synths / Re: Clavinet D6 rare preamp
« on: March 12, 2020, 05:12:17 AM »
My bet is that this clavinet is 1978, based on the use of that IC.

Other Keyboards & Software Synths / Re: Clavinet D6 rare preamp
« on: March 12, 2020, 05:03:22 AM »
First time I've seen one without it. Would love to know more about the Clavinet and if you have anymore pictures / serials that would be amazing. There might be a date stamp on the volume pot which would help date it massively.

Other Keyboards & Software Synths / Re: Clavinet D6 Logo restoration
« on: March 03, 2020, 03:29:31 PM »
The printing on the tolex is really impressive. Good work!

Fingers crossed for the re-tolexing, have to admit I've found it tricky on the D6.

The Wurlitzer Electric Piano / Re: 206 Amp Backwards Capacitors?
« on: February 20, 2020, 02:42:18 PM »
Can you take a photo of the underside of your board?

The Wurlitzer Electric Piano / Re: 206 Amp Backwards Capacitors?
« on: February 20, 2020, 07:44:06 AM »
So the main power supply caps are fine (those 3 large Mallory's)

Are you talking about the axial electrolytics on the left hand side? Are the negative leads going to ground? I have some photos of a later 1974 board but not all are clear.

Those plates should be under the lip of the damper rail. Insert them first then screw the other side in.

Unfortunately we can't see the image (it appears to be set to private)

There should be a plate held in by 2 screws either side of the damper bar which prevent the pins from moving. Are these missing?

This is perfectly normal. It's not about whether the harp sits parallel with the support.

The way the harp has been setup is to ensure that the bottom, middle and top hammers all hit the tine sweet spot so it rings out perfectly.

The angle at which the harp is sitting on the support doesn't matter as long as it sounds good.

Try the bottom part of this page:

DMI Most likely represents Dallas Musical Instruments (formerly Dallas Arbiter) in the UK. They also made Sound City guitar amps and these photos do look very simillar to guitar amps around that time.

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