Messages

Hey Steve thanks for the tip!   Looks like stands are called "music desks"  in the acoustic world,  with the part being a "Piano Music Desk Hinge" if anyone else is looking. 

Just picked up an original music stand for my 145B, minus mounting hardware.  I assume it is just a pair of pins that hold it in, but wondering if anyone has a picture / dimensions so I can try to match it up? 

any help would be appreciated!

thanks!

Just saw a 145B sell for $1850 on Ebay-  holy crapola!  

I seem to remember reading an article where Richard stated he used a 140B early on.

You can take a look at the EIA code on  the power transformer to get a very general idea. I have 2 later 200A's with the Wurlitzer logo's on the back, one transformer stamped 9th week of '81, the other is stamped 29th week of '79.   Of course Wurlitzer probably used whatever stock they had lying around, so while it is not a very accurate way to date, at least you can determine that it was produced after a certain week/year. 

Also same idea with the EIA code the back of the Vib pot.   

http://www.triodeel.com/eiacode.htm

so uhhh..... any word on a solid release date?

Wow, sorry to start such a ruckus!!  I hope everyone realizes I am not affiliated with either of the companies offering a Variable Vib for the wurli...  Most people frequenting this board have bought products from one or both of these vendors, and I think it goes without saying that the quality of goods offered are second-to-none by both companies. 

That being said I am sure that the KR/Warneck unit is an excellent sounding and performing product.  For me, from a practical standpoint, it seems easier to just install a new amp/preamp than to swap a faceplate and drill a new hole in my wurli top.  Although depending on the price-point of the VV unit, it still may be a viable option.  Which brings me back to the first question of a time frame when it will be released?   I see it is now shown on the website, but no mention of availability.   I'm hoping a few weeks??

Thanks!!

This looks insanely awesome.  I know Ken Rich has something similar but I think that requires drilling an extra hole in your top, and changing the faceplate.    Anyone have any idea on the release date?  I have emailed VV, but not heard back regarding this.  I know the owners float around these forums sometimes, so any updates would be great!


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hII1ShCFs-0

I have recently come into possession of a niceee Pianet N, and the previous owner had a novel idea he used to repair the original deteriorated "sticky hammers".  He used that "blue-tack" stuff-  Ya, that stuff you use to hang pictures!  And believe it or not, it did work to some extent, although not really usefull in any kind of serious application.  However, if you are in a bind and have a dead note or two, give it a shot.

I also would like to comment on the clavinet.com replacement hammers that are available.  A bit pricey, but they do the job very well.  Like other people have described, there can be an excessive "clicking" after these new hammers are installed.  Adjusting the "hammer" further away from the pickup works to a certain extent to quiet this noise down.  However- I had excellent results using the "dielectric grease" mod, which has been described on other threads.  Basically, you just apply a small amount to the bottom of the pad and smooth it with your finger, no big deal.  Worked wonders on my new piano- nice and quiet and decent attack still.  Curious to see how this mod holds up-  though even if one had to reapply, the whole keybed would only take about 20 minutes or so.

Thought I would share this for anyone interested!

Thread closed.  Much thanks to Steveo!

Any luck??

at least 1980 possibly later.  the pot dates to 1980.  there should be another 4 digit code on the speaker, indicating year and week of speakers, ie "8025".

hope that helps

Can pay via Paypal.  PM if you have one lying around!

Wondering how important for proper tone it is for the reed tips to be shaped into a pyramid?  I recently came across a a wurly with an odd tone, upon closer examination the reed tips have been filed into a very sharply slanted triangle, if you will.  The notes are ~in tune but just sound off...

Anyone have any input on this?


 
         

Hey Steveo, I was thinking the same thing about the pots-  however the speakers have a date code for the 17th week of '83.  While it's possible that someone changed out the pots and speakers, its more likely they are original.  So that means Wurlitzer was probably producing 200a's into the 2nd quarter of '83- though can't imagine much longer past that...

Just checked the pot codes, and was a bit surprised by what I saw.  Vibrato pot- 1378252 (52nd week, 1982), Aux pot- 1378313 (13th week, 1983).  So this Wurly dates to around April 1983.  I was always under the impression that production stopped in 1982...  Anyone have any solid information on when they actually stopped production?

Anyone have an idea how high the Wurlitzer serial numbers went before they ceased production?

Just acquired a pretty sweeet 200a.  Its a later model with the chrome wurlitzer logo on back, serial #15xxxx - however no date stamp inside.  I am guessing it's gotta be around '80/'81.  This is the highest serial I've seen, though I am sure there are higher ones out there...

Any late model 200a owners willing to share their serials, and if possible date stamps?  I want to know what "last" serial number was!!

Thanks.  Do you remember what grit paper you used to take the finish off?  Also, i wonder if they make a teak wood filler.  I have one bad gouge that goes through the veneer.  May be a wash on that one...

Hey, while on the topic of D6's, anyone have any ideas about refinishing the teak top surface?  My clav is pretty scratched/gouged/cig burned and I would like to try and restore.  It appears to be a veneer and not a slab of teak, so I am thinking the only way would be to remove the veneer and replace it?  Anyone have any experience with this, or info such as proper thickness etc...?

Just picked up a '69 Fender Vibro Champ, and I gotta say it is a killer little amp to run my Wurlitzer (145b) through.  Nice tube breakup with the volume around 8, and not a ridiculous volumes.   Plus, the vibro champ can mimic (almost exactly!) the vib of the wurly, and is footswitchable so you can kick in while playing.

Would be a good choice if you have a non vib wurly (700/120).

Wondering if anyone knows of a suitable replacement for the original transformer on a D6 preamp?  The schematic lists it as a "Beyer TR145 BV35569, with a 1:15 winding"  .

I haven't been able to find enough info on it to match it up for a replacement.  I know Clavinet.com sells them, but I'm wondering if anyone has had luck with other transformers or ideas about alternative replacements.

Thanks

Some people may know about this, but for those who don't:

Say you would like to send your Rhodes Suitcase to your guitar amp, but would also like to cut the suitcase speakers out of the equation... here is a cheap easy way to do it, and have full control over your preamp.

Grab a two pack of 1/4" plugs from Radio Shack for $4.  Take a short piece of wire and connect the tip to sleeve.  The plugs I got have small screws for the connection, so no soldering is required.  Plug them into "Power amp input" on your suitcase.  This will quiet the beast.  Then you can use a guitar cord to run from "Pre-amp out" to our guitar amp.  

Even though it is in "mono" , if you adjust the vibrato intensity low you can get a nice tremolo vibe feeling.  And you can still use the volume and EQ.

I recently acquired a Hohner D6 Clavi (ya!) and there is an odd mod where the stock power adapter should be.  It seems a previous owner has drilled out the original barrel adapter receptacle and replaced it with a 1/4" jack.

Can anyone make any sense out of this??

Well, I can't verify if this is the normal condition... but comparing two suitcases side by side.  One with silverface (late 70's) and one with blackface (early 80's) , there was a noticable volume drop when engaging vibrato in the blackface suitcase, compared to the silverface, which was almost non-existent.  This was verified by two other people in the room.   Examined both pre-amp boards, and they are similar but not the same...

I know there is a problem with the vibrato on these late models, and wonder if this factors into it.  Has anyone studied the late model Suitcase's (mark II's) to find where and why this problem occurs ?

Well, I've never worked on a peterson amp... but what you need is a good digital multimeter to test the resistors, and each component.  It is not a difficult job, but you need to look at the schematics of the board (provided here on this site) and measure yours up to the specified value.  If the resistors are shot to the point where they are blackened, well you may have other bad components such as as bad transistors, or other in-line resistors... again this will need to be verified with a multimeter.  Get a meter, soldering iron, and check out newark.com .

When the vibrato indicator is on , in the off position, can you still hear the vibrato?

Just installed the tweeters...  Not quite the impact I was expecting.

 I used 4 KSN1005A piezos, wired two per channel in parallel.  The first thing I noticed was the volume was quite low, so I removed the power resistor and that boosted the sound a bit.

Unless the treble slider is past 50%, these tweeters are negligible.  I have been playing the keyboard for about an hour, and am happy leaving the treble maxed out.

And with the tweeters pointed at my knees, well that doesn't help either.

It does improve the sound in a positive way, however.  I guess I was just expecting more of a pronounced effect, and to be able to leave my treble at 50%.

I wonder if using different tweeters would have a better effect?  Maybe I'll try upgrading to 2" x 5" horns.

Thinking about adding an on / off switch to control the amp on my 5pin suitcase, on my nameplate.    I have some ideas on the mod.  Tapping off two pins to a SPST switch maybe, but you'd have to leave the amp on all the time.  Anyone else ever attempt this ?

I've noticed on my new Mark II suitcase, blackface preamp with sliders and music stand (the one that has vibrato present a small bit even when off) , that there is a noticeable volume drop when vibrato is engaged.  About the same as a small stone pedal.  No mods have been done on the circuit.  Anyone else ever experience this problem, or have an explanation for this?  Also, would the VintageVibe fix for the vibrato problem take care of this?

...

Have my suitcase apart, so I just took some measurements -

There are three components:

-Square wooden dowel, 3/4" x 3/4" , 20.5" long.  On top end there is a 5/16 hole drilled about 1.5" deep

-In that hole sits a threaded bolt about 4" long.  Mine extends 3.5" above the top of the dowel.  These can be bought here: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=360177084347

-On top of that is a loosely wound spring about 2" long, 1" wide , with a rubber grommet on top.

And here is a picture of the whole assembly:
http://s803.photobucket.com/albums/yy318/electroharmony/?action=view&current=suitcaserod.jpg

Great instructions guys.  Just got my tweeters in the mail, and anxiously awaiting the next time I have a few free hours to install.

Wondering if you wire these tweeters in parallel, as opposed to the original series diagram, would you need to use a power resistor on each tweeter ?

here: http://www.fenderrhodes.org/ch11/fig11-2.html
here: http://www.fenderrhodes.org/ch11/fig11-2.jpg
and
here: http://www.fenderrhodes.org/ch11/fig11-1.jpg

I just rechecked the back panel and it is definitely a "145B" model wurli...

Is there any way to tell the year made from the serial number of these old wurlitzers??

Good news!  That was the fix! So the moral of this thread will be, if you have isolated the trouble to your pre-amp, and are still missing a vibrato channel - check the LED optocouplers, located at LED1 and LED2.  You can buy new ones that work here: http://www.newark.com/eg-g-vactec/vtl5c1/optocoupler/dp/43F885

cheers

Getting ready to mod... Any thoughts on why I shouldn't?

    

Thought I'd add for 5pin suitcases...

Don't forget to check the the power transistors located on the heatsink, on the outside of the amp. These can be easy to overlook.  There are two per channel, and connect to the blue 6-pin connector.

I recently kept burning out components on one of my amp boards. It turned out both 2N6254 transistors on the heatsink were shorted, and the root of my trouble.  If you need to replace, it's probably a good idea to use new 120pF capacitors, connected across the base and collector.

Thanks for the reply -

Just found a shorted diode in one of the VTL5C1 optocouplers, located at LED1.  Looks like this could be the root of the problem, as this is connected to the output of channel A (or so I think).  Figure I'll change out both of em - just ordered 2 at a cost of $30 delivered to my house.  I'll update once they are changed.

And another quick update...  Just checked all three IC's , and they all have +14V, and -14V at points 4 and 8 , regardless of position of intensity pot.

Checked with stereo headphones.  Both channels working.  Interestingly, even with vibrato off, the intensity pot still controls the signal on Channel A (0 = full signal , 10 = no signal).  

So, if I understand you bjammerz, it almost seems like vibrato is always on channel A, regardless of switch position and is always being effected by the intensity pot?

I've spent some time checking the forums, and found this article - http://www.fenderrhodes.com/service/amp-failures.php - that explains the most common failures were the 4558 IC's.  Does that sound applicable in this situation?

*EDIT*

After checking some more, it appears both sides are working.  However, when vibrato is engaged, it cuts out one channel (when the LED is blinked *off*).  Also on that channel, with vibrato engaged, the signal is directly effected by the position of the intensity pot (at 10 channel is completely silent, at 1 full signal).

Any ideas ?

Thanks Mark II -  but I guess what I am wondering is how appreciable that added weight really is, and if anyone has had any negative response due to the added weight on the keys.

cheers

Wondering if the back check mod from vintage vibe changes the feel, or action on the keys?   I am thinking about picking one up, but would hate to have the keys end up being heavier.  Anyone with this mod have any info?

What do you find more desirable - a Mark I or a Mark II , and why?

Hi all,

Having some trouble with my old 73 Mark I Suitcase preamp.  It is the silverface, with sliding EQ version.  

The trouble is, it is only giving output on one side.  I have searched the threads, (thank you for all the info) , and determined it is the preamp:  I have tested this top on a similar suitcase bottom with known working power supply, voltage regulator, amp boards, and 5 pin connector cable, and still only one side is giving output.

I looked at the schematics (100w Suitcase) so nicely provided on this site, but can't seem to figure out where it splits signal to dual-channel. Seems it might split on the Op-amp A3 chip.  Anyone else ever have this problem? Could anyone gently nudge me as where might be a good place to check on the circuit board?  

Thank you kindly