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Messages - spacecho

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Hello All,

Following this thread, I too have a pair of Janus that i recently biased and adjusted. As part of that service i checked all rails and noticed that the 30v rails both measure around 38v on both units (measured at the caps), much the same as is the case with vanceinatlance's original post.

I don't see any voltage regulators for the 30v rails, just a Bridge Rectifier (which check out okay on both units). My units were a little crackly (when plugging in and out) until i adjusted the DC offset (which was quite out) and the Bias, now they sound great. All of the connections are switching jacks, and all of mine were oxidised - switch deoxit really helped here, as did fader deoxit for the pot. Also as mentioned in other threads, reflow the molex connections to each of the amplifier and regulator boards as the solder joints can crack (causing random crackling and issues).

There is a video that outlines how to calibrate and adjust the bias and DC offset for these amps - but please, don't even think about going in there unless you know what you are doing!!!!!

For Sale / Hohner Pianet Model M for sale Melbourne
« on: May 18, 2019, 05:38:26 AM »
Hello All,

I have a clean Hohner Pianet M for sale. Very rare in Australia, this woodgrain model has built in speakers and phaser (and input / output via DIN connectors) and a really nice sound. It's built in phaser sounds like a very nice dyno / chorused rhodes, but sweeter. Beautiful tone and an interesting alternative to a rhodes.

email for photos and details etc, any questions please ask.

PRICE $1250

For Sale / DELETE
« on: October 22, 2018, 07:59:22 AM »

Thanks for your reply PnoBoy,

To clarify, i have a Petersen Preamp in the rhodes (older 3 knob one - 4 pin cable, discreet electronics), but the speakers are Janus towers (5 pin cable).
I'll have to check the voltage of the 5 pin cable, as i know the Petersen Preamp needs 24v. Perhaps the later Janus is 15v (as it is OpAmp based?)

Will test with a multimeter and report back,

Hello All,

I recently acquired a 1976 stage 88 with the older 3 knob preamp, and 2x janus tower speakers.
They connect via a 4 pin to 5 pin cable (4 pin end at piano preamp, 5 pin end at the Janus speakers)

When connecting the preamp to the janus in this way, the sound is very very distorted (intermodulation type distortion) and is basically unusable. When connecting the send of the rhodes preamp, to the 1/4" input of the Janus (passive connection) the sound is okay.

Any ideas of where to look?


Thanks for the suggestions!

The bridle straps are definitely taught.

Having given it more thought, i suspect that the angle of the dampeners is wrong? I'll check that they hit the tines flat (by pressing the tine assembly down with the dampener up one by one).

Perhaps my dampeners are weak through too much adjustment over the years. I was thinking of trying to strengthen the end part of the dampener (after the bridle strap) by reinforcing it with something / or creasing that half.

I have 16 NOS dampener arms here, so perhaps i'll try and re do an octave and see if new dampeners help.

Will report back in a week or two when i get a full afternoon to work on the piano.

Thanks again!

Hello All,

I have a lovely 1973 Suitcase 88 (Hybrid Hammers).
It has had extensive work done over the years - miracle mod, VV backchecks, grommets, felts.

The piano sounds amazing, but there are a few issues i'd like to resolve:

An issue i have had with it is that the dampers come up early - when the key is only halfway through being released (to resting position)
This makes the piano feel choked as the notes dampen before my fingers have even left the keys.
My notes don't all dampen on / off cleanly either.

I compared this to a friends MK7 and found that on his modern rhodes, the note is dampened very cleanly within the last 1-2mm of the key being released to starting / rest position - much nicer.

On observing the bridle straps - i see that they look quite firm tight - no slack at all - don't know if they have been adjusted by the tech i bought the piano from many years ago.

Here are some details of the setup:

The bass side is shimmed with a melamine (3mm) strip, in addition to the 1mm black shims at each end.
Key dip is a smaller than normal (8mm or so)
Tone bars are at standard 3/8".

I'm wondering whether tight bridle straps would cause this condition / or is it loose straps that do this.
I suspect that my dampener arms might have lost tension also.
Not sure if the backchecks interact in any way also?
The rhodes had lots of key bounce before i put the backchecks in.
It is fairly heavy to play as well.

Hoping to make improvements to this wonderful instrument, and am looking forward to hearing your suggestions!

Thank you all!

thanks for responding guys,

what i meant to say is that my first stage / janus rhodes (essentially a suitcase) had this nice warm full sound. Every stage (i just tried another 79 mk 1 stage today) rhodes i have played including my mk 2 has a much thinner sound with a really harsh top end.

i also have noticed that whilst the action is quicker and lighter, the keys clang around really loudly where as i remember the old janus rhodes having really tough action (all worn out in the middle registers) but it was much smoother, responsive and less noisy. another mk1 suitcase i play at a friends regularly is the same.

so i guess in terms of sound any of jamiroquai's early albums are full of the sound im after which seems to me like a stock old mk1 suitcase sound - which i cant get from the 4 stage and 1 mk1/2 (80) rhodes i have played.

i wish i could find a suitcase in aus - might have to just move!

Hello all,

i am writing because i have been trying to capture the sound of my first rhodes (75 stage with preamp and satellite speakers) that i foolishly sold??

i got a mark 2 stage thinking that it would be fantastic (great action) but it
just seems bright and harsh with none of the smooth creamy sound that i
used to have.

At first i put it down to the fact that it is a stage - so maybe the tone is in the preamp, but then i recently tried out a late mk1 79 (which is basically a mk2) suitcase and found that it still had that same bright harsh sound with none of the body and tone.

I know that the preamp in the earlier ones is discrete with transistors, where as the newer ones (with sliders and LEDs) uses integrated circuits -ics)

i am guessing that the circutry in the old design is so dodgy that it miracously knocks all the rough edges off the stock rhodes tone?
whereas the new ic design reproduces it far more accurately?

what confuses me even more is that i have heard a old mk1 stage
and it had the tone - it was going through a marshall though!

I dont believe that the changes in action could be enough to make a difference, maybe the change in the pickup wiring / impendence affects the tone?

oh yeah, needless to say if anybody wants to part with a old rhodes in australia? i would be happy to $$$ make u an offer!!!

Parts, Service, Maintenance & Repairs / same key, new problem
« on: July 14, 2005, 01:05:28 AM »
Hey all,

when this happens can the tonebar cause the short sustain rather than the tine??

my mk2stage has a few keys like this..

Parts, Service, Maintenance & Repairs / One Key sounds dead
« on: July 14, 2005, 01:01:10 AM »
Hi Vibe75,

i have a mk2 stage and i have found that some of my notes just don't sustain. I have taken them out (tine and tonebar) and struck the tine whilst it is in my hand and it just dies quicker than if i do the same thing with a tine/tonebar that i know is good.

What i want to establish is whether it is the tine or the tonebar that is faulty? they are definently super tight, i will probably go and swap tines and tonebar around with a friends rhodes to see what it is..

I think the idea of re-electroplating the tonebars might be a good idea???

before u do anything look at your hammertips, my rhodes must have been played by a keybasher! because some hammertips have a groove in them almost all the way to the bottom (7mm!) These notes had shorter sustain because of this

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