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Messages - Cormac Long

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It's real for sure. I had to vet the whole thing before I allowed them post.

You can see the piano in action here:

Announcements / I want to join this forum, what do I do?
« on: March 11, 2019, 05:42:55 AM »
So you want to join this forum and contribute to the discussion. Here's what you need to do:

Register an account
First you'll need to create an account on the forum. You do that by clicking the link below to register a new account. When you click that link, there is a terms & conditions page shown to you. Do not skip over it. It lists typical T&Cs but also includes three questions that you will need to answer via email. When you click past that page you are then asked to select your username and enter your email address and desired password. You are also asked to answer some simple questions about music instruments or math, geography. These steps are used to fight off spam bots that try to auto-register accounts on web forums.

Once all that is complete, your account will be created and put into an pending state until you send us an email with answers to the three questions we listed in the registration agreement. Then once we get that email and all looks good, we'll approve the account and you're all set.

If any of this is confusing you, just email and we'll help.


Also as a new member of the forum, make sure you read the rules:

And finally, if you're a vendor in this space, selling instruments, parts or repair services, then please read this additional rule set for vendors:
Vendors Rules:

We'll need to see a detailed picture of the wiring behind the piano rail to tell exactly what each socket is doing.

For the RCA cable, it's best to get a 1/4" (3.5mm) Jack to RCA male adaptor so you can run a normal amp cable to the harp and adapt it there to the RCA female. That will isolate the harp from the custom wiring entirely and likely get you up and running a lot faster.

I think this thread as Tim suggested as gone off the rails enough.


Announcements / New Logo
« on: January 16, 2018, 10:31:35 AM »
  a belated happy holiday and new year :)

I've put up a new logo. Many thanks to new forum member Damian (d-rock) for volunteering his graphics design expertise and giving us a new logo for the forum banner.

And now for something different.. an interesting clip I saw today from Japan where a piano tech used springs to improve the repeat action on upright pianos.

I don't think the idea of springs is totally new. Some comments on the Youtube clip mention that several makes through the years had utilised something similar. There's also one part of the video where they used a Hitachi jig-saw to drive the repeat test on the keys :).


That worked. Here's another..

I'll leave the topic live for a few days in case others want to test it.

Go to , upload an image and copy the direct URL it provides you. Paste into your post and surround with the img tags (or select the pasted link and click the image button on the formatting toolbar).

Best have images scaled/cropped to 800x600 or smaller resolution so that they fit better to the posts.

And for safety, try to secure a copy of the image elsewhere in case that service ever goes all ransom mode like photobucket.

Confirmed.. Google Photos no longer working for embedded photo URLs

When you grab a raw image URL from Google Photos, you get this huge and very random URL. These were what's called unguessable URLs and they bear no reference to the user, album or given photo name etc. So they are quite secure.

Back in the Picasa days and definitely also in the earlier times for Google Photos, that embeddable URL would work. Now if the retriever is not signed into a google account, he gets a broken link. If signed into another account he gets a no entry sign which is what David and rhodesjuzz saw.

The only way to share a link is via a shared image link, but thats no usable for embedded purposes.

Irony indeed. Ive managed to recreate it also. I suspect it only works for you if you're signed into a google account. I can recreate the broken link in an incognito browser window.

Will investigate that more

Instead of a photo only a no-enter-sign (if that's the right english word) shows up.

Same for me.

Oh, the irony.

[Removed bit about using Google Photos.. that no longer works for embedded image sharing]

Ben I'll take a nose around some of your posts and examine some links etc and get back to you. If its possible the bucket links have some remnant of the original filename, then I think we can find a way to batch update the URLs in your archive of posts.

I did similar surgery way back after migrating the forum and its posts from James Garfields site where some posts had links to other posts and luckily I was able to do a like for like swap ensuring these got converted despite the forum software and URL being changed. Article ID numbers were preserved after the migration so it threw me a bone to work with.

There is also an attachment option here on the forum but I wouldn't recommend it especially to people who know what they are doing with the content authoring etc. The free flow of text and images is what people want when writing something authoritatively. 

The Wurlitzer Electric Piano / Re: Wurly or Wurli? (informal poll)
« on: May 30, 2017, 04:30:29 PM »
Poll added to topic folks :)

In case its not obvious when you get under the hood, make sure you take photos and upload here or share a link etc. It will help for others to take a look.

If no pin exists, I'm suspecting the rail could have been bent by the force of the pedal rod.

It does indeed seem like the centre pin is broken or has slipped. But not all pianos had these pins fitted.

You will need to get the lid off and examine the movement of the damper rail over the as you press the pedal to confirm if the rail is acting in a warped manner, with the centre section not pressing down correctly on the dampers.

Then unscrew and raise the harp to examine it more closely and also confirm if the piano has a damper rail pin and if its slipped, loose or broken.


Moved post from Mike Borish to here.. (forum rules, keep sales pitches to for-sale section)

Hi folks,

   The webhost had an emergency service window take place between what they say was 2-3 EDT (6AM-7AM GMT) on Saturday. So somewhere in that time period they managed to goof and presumably lose posts by restoring a DB snapshot. So apologies to all concerned.. Normally if they give better notice, I can schedule the forum to go into maintenance mode prior to their activities. This case however was an unexpected occurrence.

seems all the posts that were made today have been erased somehow.

My post disappeared.

The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / Re: Uneven output on 1978 Rhodes
« on: July 10, 2016, 04:50:00 PM »
Just to get a 2nd opinion on that output volume, I'd set the amp volume lower and use a screwdriver tip to tap the metal core of the pickups and try to gauge that volume difference between the pops. That should give a more accurate indicator and avoid any voicing or hammer tip variations that could be in play.

Buying / Re: Electric Acoustic Piano with Midi
« on: June 22, 2016, 03:48:18 PM »
Unless one of the techs comment or pm you on this, I'd start to reach out to some of the Rhodes shops to see if they do these retrofits and if they would do one on a real piano. Given its a key bed mod, I suspect it's done the same way.

Either that or start rebooking at different stage pianos in case you can find a tolerable action.

Buying / Re: Electric Acoustic Piano with Midi
« on: June 21, 2016, 04:43:27 PM »
The cheapest option is going to be a weighted digital piano or one of the entry level stage pianos from Korg, Yamaha etc. But they will have the same feel typical of digital pianos.

If you're really looking for a more traditional feel, then you would need to go the route of acquiring a normal upright piano, possibly with a practice pedal to muffle the main sound and go the route of having a MIDI retrofit. Thats going to be well clear of the $1000 limit if you consider the used price for a good condition upright and the retrofit.

Some of the shops that service Rhodes and the like actually fit the same kind of mod to Rhodes to make them MIDI-capable. The principle is based on a sensor strip positioned under the key bed that detects the motion and translates that into MIDI signals. There are probably other piano techs out there that do the same.

From what I've read, it used to be a royal PITA to fit and tune these systems. But the technology may have improved. Hopefully some of the techs experienced with this kind of mod can chime in here.


From the 90's specifically, I'd add two from Jamiroquai:

Space Cowboy (1994) .. opens with a Rhodes and the signature tremolo
Cosmic Girl (1996).. opens with a Rhodes with Phaser effect

The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / Re: Year Mark II built
« on: March 29, 2016, 06:22:30 PM »
See here for details on how the dating works..

For this piano, given its a later model, 4404 .. week 44, 1980, 4th working day of week.

Move the topic into the Other Keyboards & Software Synths section

It looks like week 35/38 of 1972 based on the harp timestamps.

Its a Fender-Rhodes suitcase 73 with full skirted key caps which also fits that timeframe in both use of "Fender" and the full skirt keycaps.

that's definitely a mod there.

the capacitor used to perform the tone control is usually soldered onto the "bass boost" pot. Now it could in this case straddle the two and still be wired correctly. But I've never seen a cap that physically large used.

This thread here has a diagram and photo of the setup on a Mark V but it would be the later revised passive setup Rhodes used which gave better control and less signal loss as I understand it.

Did you try taking the audio feed direct from the harp, bypassing the Bass/volume pots?

A lot of people prefer the direct sound as it tends to be cleaner. Trying that may also identify the pots/capacitor as the source of the muffled sound.

Certainly from listening to it, it's definitely sounding muffled.

Other Keyboards & Software Synths / Re: What is this thing? (Czech eBay EP)
« on: December 29, 2015, 06:03:21 PM »
Some great closeups on the action and reeds here..

Amps, Effects & Recording Techniques / Re: EHX Stereo Pulsar
« on: December 15, 2015, 06:06:30 AM »
From recollection, I don't recall having a left or right only sound when my Pulsar was in the "off" position.

but I also had mine powered via an external PSU. So I have no idea if it was still drawing power to provide output on both channels. Because if it was, then that's not good news if you are planning to drive it via battery.

Amps, Effects & Recording Techniques / Re: EHX Stereo Pulsar
« on: December 14, 2015, 08:12:27 AM »
I bought an EHX Stereo Pulsar before and returned it because I found the tremolo speed control too sensitive. The rate would go from slow to fast on the slightest adjustment.

I ended up getting a used MXR M159 which was perfect for the job. But that product seems discontinued for quite some time.
You have a usable rate control, wave shape pot.. both extremes are cats-eye and square. You've also got a depth control.
It has two stomp switches, one is on/off and the other toggles between panning tremolo and just a mono tremolo.

When its in the off position, there is a pass-thru signal coming out via both L/R outputs. But I would expect this with all stereo Fx boxes.

The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / Re: Year of manufacture
« on: December 02, 2015, 12:03:10 PM »
If the harp supports are wood-blocks, then you may find a date stamp either under theses blocks or on the side of the hammer rail.

You'd need to first remove the harp, unscrew the keybed from the case and lift it out. Then underneath the keybed, unscrew the wood blocks so that they can be removed.

My 1975 Mk1 was void of any markings on the harp and after getting advice on removing the blocks,  I eventually found a date on the right side of the hammer rail.

For immediate results, the only way you're going to get a passive signal out is to disconnect the harp RCA and run a cable from there direct to an external amp, pedalboard etc.

I was trying to see if the left-most Jack was possibly a passive out from the harp but it really seems to be parallel wired to the other jack.

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