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Messages - jim

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Parts, Service, Maintenance & Repairs / Re: Notes not sustaining (Video)
« on: August 21, 2011, 06:39:44 AM »
It might also be worth plucking the tine next to your ear when you have it out (hold the assembly by the screws) that's usually a pretty good test of a tine. If it rings gloriously you'll know it.

Parts, Service, Maintenance & Repairs / Re: Low output
« on: August 21, 2011, 06:36:21 AM »
it is possible that each time you put the harp down, you put it down in a different position, and put the strike line out. This is the sweet spot where your hammers should hit the tines. (hence when you put a tine in the spot next to it's own it will sound dull)
did you screw it down each time?

Hi Steveo, long time no chat!
we are 240V down here.
the transformers in our wurlys are different, but i've played others without this sound many times so it doesn't seem to be an australian thing.

If this where a passive rhodes i'd be putting my hands all over it trying to lower the noise by grounding it. But I'm not doing it on a wurly! i'm scared!

really? nobody has anything? :-\

bump bump bump?

I'd really like to know the outcome of this, am having exactly the same problem.

For Sale / immaculate wurlitzer 200 for sale in Melbourne
« on: October 18, 2010, 07:37:52 AM »
Hi guys,
just thought i'd post a link to this beauty i'm selling  :)

Parts, Service, Maintenance & Repairs / Nasty buzz/hum on RCA output??
« on: August 22, 2010, 07:42:35 PM »
is your harp screwed down?

Parts, Service, Maintenance & Repairs / Nasty buzz/hum on RCA output??
« on: August 22, 2010, 07:40:38 PM »
the guy kept the pre-amp!? what a jerk!

zip ties!?

yep, you've figured it out.

and the screws are just wood screws.

now see if you can find out what the grommets really cost.
I think you'll be unpleasantly surprised.

Parts, Service, Maintenance & Repairs / Repair questions
« on: August 05, 2010, 06:24:53 PM »
there's probably no need to confirm with the multimeter, if it doesn't go BANG, then it's dead.
If you remove the pickup you will need to bridge the gap with the wires.
If you unsolder the pickup be very very careful as they really love to cook.

Parts, Service, Maintenance & Repairs / Repair questions
« on: August 01, 2010, 06:59:46 PM »
those high notes can be very difficult sometimes.

you may have on some of your higher tonebars a little clip. If you do, try putting it on one of the failing notes and move it up and down to see if you can get it to ring.

I'd also check that the hammer tip is hitting the tine and not the mounting of the tine.

another thing to try is to unscrew the whole tine assembly with springs, and hold it by the springs and screws next to your ear, then flick the tine with your fingernail to get it to ring. This is how you can hear if the tine is a dud, if it wont ring.
 But tuning can effect this also. And some tines kinda want to be a different note sometimes, you may find if you change its pitch it will ring forever.

The Wurlitzer Electric Piano / wurli 206 super amazing build
« on: August 01, 2010, 08:50:21 AM »
looks nice,
i reckon you should do the cheek blocks on the rhodes too, that will make it classy as.

I don't think it was an accident or lazyness, i've seen this on pretty much every piano i've worked on, it would be harder to get two springs around the grommet than to seperate them I reckon,
 I think it's just a problem solve for poor sustain.

Parts, Service, Maintenance & Repairs / Repair questions
« on: July 25, 2010, 06:14:02 PM »
aw i couldn't see the link.

*leans back on ratty old sofa*


i had this problem once,
i think i just jammed it hard in the position opposite to the warp and left it for a couple of days. it worked.

Parts, Service, Maintenance & Repairs / Hammer tip glue?
« on: July 17, 2010, 06:11:08 PM »
that's a shame.

Just be happy your band know/hear the difference.

yeah 72 is wood hammers,
although it's still plastic sitting on the pedestals.

i guess if it works, it works!

Parts, Service, Maintenance & Repairs / Hammer tip glue?
« on: July 16, 2010, 09:10:36 PM »
ha ha yeah i've glued plenty of super glue tubes to plenty of desks.

the older older rhodes have felts on the key peds, then they switched to felt on the hammers around 76-77? then back to on the pedestals after that.

you can do a bump mod on the felt on hammers piano by putting the bump on the key pedestal and leaving the felt as is.

sometimes sticky tape over the pedestal and bump will smooth out the action also. normal sticky tape.

the guy with no felt on his piano probably has completely gouged out hammers by now. it will play worse and worse as time goes by until it's shot.

i'd imagine he would have a lot of key bounce also.

Parts, Service, Maintenance & Repairs / Hammer tip glue?
« on: July 15, 2010, 03:43:18 AM »
those new old stock tips would have the grooves on the bottom yes?
these grooves don't help much for the super glue, and i guess your half wood hammers wouldn't either.

after saying that, I have no suggestion for a solution.

or,  maybe wood glue?

Buying / Looking for any pre-75 tines in the mid range
« on: July 03, 2010, 10:57:02 PM »
Bjammerz, do you know when they changed?  or started changing i guess....

Buying / Looking for any pre-75 tines in the mid range
« on: July 03, 2010, 10:53:24 PM »
the tines are a different shape and you may be able to see the shape in the ebay pic, unless they are not sending what they photographed.
older tines taper off slowly, newer taper quickly.

also you can get around the sweet spot on a tine being different by changing where the hammer tip sits on the hammer forward or back.
to find the spot, unscrew your harp retaining screws and brackets,  and play the bung sounding note while moving the harp back and forth slightly, if at any time the note comes alive with tone, that's where you want the hammer tip to hit.
then pull the hammer tip off, and modify to fit
(cut a little corner if it's moving back so it can sit over the back lip of the hammer)


well i just spent all this time trying to see if i could see what era any of the ebay tines where,
my eyes just aren't good enough, and the pics too far away.
I guess another thing to look out for is when people sell old tine kits & cutting guides they've found, like there's one from the 80's up there now,
the ones from the 70's have old school looking cutting guides.
I'm clutching at straws i know.

The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / Gold Sparkle Piano Bass
« on: July 03, 2010, 10:32:20 PM »
holy cow, nice.

Buying / Looking for any pre-75 tines in the mid range
« on: July 03, 2010, 02:42:42 AM »
same era tines will have the same sweet spot also, will line up better for your strike line.

where are you located Paul Mulligan?

Mark 11,
I've also used a drill power supply on a rhodes! :)

Other Keyboards & Software Synths / Electric Piano Identification
« on: June 26, 2010, 08:31:55 PM »
I remember my uncle having an early roland electric piano, which i recall sounding similar, it had clav and piano sounds,
this sound is definitely not electromechanical I reckon.

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