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Messages - tjcombs

#1
Hey
I know you're trying to sell this bad boy, but I'm more partial to making my own pcb's. Any chance you could send me the pcb layout?
Thanks!
Thad
#2
Buying / 73 Mk I I am looking at - good deal?
October 21, 2007, 02:04:17 AM
Change your grommets!
xoxo
#3
The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / MARK V
July 09, 2007, 11:53:16 AM
Mark V Stand anybody?
Check it.......

http://www.rhodespiano.com/rhodes_accessories.htm
#4
That's correct. Removing shims would lessen your escapement. I would recommend putting a temporary thin shim under the bass end and see if that helps.
#5
Oops! Forgot to post this!

2084 is the date code
#6
Mark V
1984
Serial 801 807
#7
The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / MARK V
June 06, 2007, 03:44:25 PM
I got mine for 700 us buy it now in great shape from someone who didn't know what it was.
#8
The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / MARK V
June 04, 2007, 10:15:51 PM
I've seen them go for about 3000 us
#9




Something familiar. Maybe it's just the blue..........
#10
You can get tinned wire from a company called smallbear electronics, along with a lot of other useful guitar pedal related products.

www.smallbearelec.com

click on stock list on the left, and type in 0509 in the search.
#11
Quote from: "bjammerz"tape over glue?  any reason?

I would just use tape for the initial test, it's less permanent. Then glue them if you like the action that way.
#12
The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / treble problems
March 26, 2007, 04:24:08 PM
I would buy some contact cleaner and clean the pot, see if that works. It's cheap and easy, and it might just fix your problem.
#13
Honestly, I would try to doing exactly what the photo shows with some strong double sided tape instead of glue as a test. Do it on about 8 or so keys (white's and sharps) , and then just play the piano as you normally would. Do some runs, chords and then see if you like the way it is. Then invite the guy over and tell him to try it and see if he likes it.
#14
Quote from: "O.Lahoz"Hi,
I bought to Speakeasy a hammers tips kit for about two years. A few
days ago I have installed them and for my surprise those labelled with the
green color produces a poor sound and double striking.

Compared with the originals they are more high, so I had to cut them to
reduce its height (that it avoids double striking) and to increase the
contact surface with the tine (that improved sound).

When I asked them about this, they answered me:

Two years ago, they would have been tips from another manufacturer.  We
now have our own made, however needing to trim the tips (aka adjusting
the escapement) is at times needed.


I had the same problem with mine and I got them a few months ago.
I had to cut them as well.


Musicman- I belieive he's referring to height of the hammertip, not width.
#15
If you're just looking for a little bit of "warmth" you should just get your hands on an old Rangemaster.
#16
Here is a link to some pics I took

These are from my mark V
Hope they help
TJ

http://s83.photobucket.com/albums/j315/tjcombs/rhodes%20wires/
#17
Bro, You should just build one.
It's cheap and EASY!!
Here's a couple links that will tell you all you need to know.
My suggested is the small clone chorus.

http://www.tonepad.com/

http://www.tonepad.com/project.asp?id=8

http://www.tonepad.com/getFile.asp?id=8

http://www.tonepad.com/customPage.asp?id=2
#18
I have the preamp from Vintagebua out of Norway and it rocks!
http://www.vintagebua.no/
#19
damper kiss my friend
Who did the work on your piano?
#20
any chance you'll post the schematics? original and new?
Thanks!
#21
I removed my harp brackets and very lightly filed down the area that touched the tonebar. Problem solved. I probably weakened the integrity of the bracket minutely, but I've noticed no difference in tone or stability. so I'm not too worried.
#23
Other Keyboards & Software Synths / Roland Jupiter 4
February 04, 2007, 01:33:17 AM
#24
The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / Son of a gun!!
January 30, 2007, 02:02:59 PM
You know, I had a very different reaction than most of the above mentioned when I first read this thread.
I didn't think about how unfortunate it was that you didn't make any money on your piano, I thought about how awesome it was for you to just give your piano away. I mean, sure there was opportunity for monetary gain, but think about your Karma now man!  :P
#25
Quote from: "uncle silas"Who says we're all piano players???!!!

Actually I'm a shitty piano player.  I've got no left hand and not much happening on the right.

I'm a guitar player who just acts like a keyboard player.  It's strange, I can't write music on guitar very easily anymore, I write mostly on keys.  It's like Tom Waits says, "Your hands are like old dogs, they always go back to what they know."

I find the sound of my rhodes (any rhodes) to be so inspiring that I constantly return to it, despite being a mediocre player.

But, really, I'd like a real piano to write on as my main tool...no room/money though.

You just summed up my complete piano knowledge. Except I can still rock the geeeeetar.
#26
Well, I have the Vintagebua preamp and it sounds great with my Mark V
Unfortunately I have no way of recording a sound sample so all you have is my word of mouth.

But, they were super kind about modifying mine for no charge, and building it from scratch to fit my namerail.
From what I can see, all the components are quality, build is good and it sounds awesome.

My 2 cents!
#27
I've grounded my sustain bar, and made new cables to do all the rest of the grounding. I'm confidant that my soldering work is correct, but without a multimeter there's no way to be certain.

The ring is on the bottom of the Piano, housed inside the plastic case.
#28
I have the dowel, dowel housing,and  felt on both ends.
I've discovered that there's a ring of metal around the hole for the sustain pedal. This metal is connected to the outer case.
When I (or my sustain rod ) touch the ring , I get a slight buzz. Same thing when I touch the outer case. Then, if I touch the harp support at the same time, all my problems dissapear. My thoughts tell me this MUST be a grounding issue, but I'm Soooooo lost!   :cry:
I'm not sure what else to try. I've tried connecting wires between all sorts of contact points but have had no better results.
I'm wondering if there's a ground issue somewhere in the pickup chain, but I have no idea how I'd find that out, short of resoldering every pickup connection.

A temporary solution I've come up with is to use wooden sustain pedal rod, that I made from 2 sections of different size dowel. That way, nothing conductive touches the metal ring our outer case while I play.  It works, but it's not adjustable. As long as I don't change the height I should be fine, but I STILL want to figure out my damn problem!!

I wonder if a section of electricians tape around my sustain rod would work?
#29
Thanks for your reply!
I have tried that already with no better results.
#30
The keybed is designed differently.
I own a Mark 1 and a Mark V and the keys are NOT interchange-able.
I cannot speak for the Mark II though.
#31
On my Mark V, I get static on my signal whenever I press down my sustain pedal. I don't know what could be causing this. I've gone over all my ground connections and replaced all the wiring, rca jack, everything. I'm going crazy here. When I touch my faceplate I get a slight buzz/hum as well. I know this sounds like a ground issue, but I don't know where it could be coming from. Any suggestions?
Thanks!
#32
The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / Stamp
January 21, 2007, 09:57:41 PM
At the top of the screen there's a link between home and forum. I would suggest that link  :lol: Jokes!
#33
Do it black man. Black is classy.
#34
Quote from: "hrees"Fred

I have some. Let me know what you need.

Fred! Check this out! Heh.  :lol:
#35
What model is that second logo from?
#36
Parts, Service, Maintenance & Repairs / keycaps
January 09, 2007, 02:16:46 PM
This guy sells a ton of Rhodes parts.
If it says they're plastic, they probably are.
They look plastic to me.
#37
I did the miracle mod on my piano and it is awesome, and new hammertips will cut down on your bell tone a little.
#38
It could be that your voicing is set to more overtone and you are hearing the overtones and not the fundamental note.
#39
just fired a bunch more pics up in the mark V section!!  Including pics of my new custom vinyl sticker for the back of my Mark V! I had to paint my harp cover so I needed to get a new sticker to replace the one I took off. I have another one if anyone's interested in it. They were 15 dollars each if anyone wants one.

She's almost done! Just have to finalize voiceing/tuning and then some damper issues to take care of.
Also:
I ordered the Vintagebua preamp so it should be here soon after they finish building it. If anyone's looking to buy something from Vintagebua, Jon was awesome to deal with! Great guy!
#40
No, I got the preamp made by Vintagebua.com instead to be mounted in my Mark V
I may still get the bbe for my other Mark 1 though.
#41
all I have to say is.............. wow, that thing sounds amazing
#42
Parts, Service, Maintenance & Repairs / Mark V preamp
January 02, 2007, 05:54:44 PM
From where?
#43
Parts, Service, Maintenance & Repairs / Mark V preamp
January 01, 2007, 09:22:57 PM
Anyone know if there's a preamp that fits the Mark V namerail? Or alternatively, a preamp with free-floating Pots? I have looked far and wide for one with no luck!

They have a different hole  layout than Mark 1 and 2's so the Major key/ Vintagebua/ Rhodes man ones don't fit.
I'm also not down with drilling my MK V namerail or modding one of the pre's.
Any suggestions?
#44
I can't believe I didn't use the search button.............
Thanks!
#45
Anyone ever used one of these on their Rhodes?
I have the opportunity to buy one cheap, but it's across the country so I can't test it first.
#46
If I was going to use a preamp with my piano, I would mount it inside in place of the volume/tone control, and remove the stock controls. It sounds better without them.

As far as your felt goes, it's probably mounted on the underside of your hammers. I do believe you can still mount the bumps on your key pedestals. You don't want to put the felt on after though, because then the felt on your key peds will rub on the felt on your hammers.

Check this site out for pictures of your pedestals and felt.
http://www.backroomsounds.com/gallery/rhodes%5Fbandwidth/
#47
Parts, Service, Maintenance & Repairs / No sound
December 28, 2006, 01:46:04 PM
Not a major problem. This would be a very easy fix, and if you have a soldering iron, probably wouldn't cost you any money.
When it comes to the electronics, these things aren't complicated at all.
TJ
#48
Check out my photobucket link in my previous post to see the paint I used for my Mark V.  Make SURE!!!! that you get a paint with a flex agent in it. This will prevent cracking when you move or bend your harp cover at all. I also used a different paint once before on my Mark 1 with great results. It was an automotive paint for vinyl car interiors. When I painted my harp cover,  I washed it with dishsoap, and then used a VERY VERY mild painters turpentine (Test it first!!!). Then  I just let it dry and gave it like, 6 or 8 very light coats of paint. Worked very well. I never primed it or anything either.
#49
Nice! I'm excited. I don't see anything similar to this product on their site, only the quadrapuss, and other really basic preamps. Nothing with Tremelo and EQ only. This is really intriguing. Any news on when it's release?
Would this be the Jordan preamp mentioned in their blog?
#50
Posted a couple new pics of my repainted harp cover, (a little dusty now). Some other logo stuff (quite clean).  Not much happening, just waiting for hammertips and grommets to come in. I'm also getting a new Rhodes logo sticker for the back of my harp cover made. Should be ready in a few days.
Here's a pic or two for now and a link to my photobucket. Feel free to browse the rest of it to see some foolish pics of me.

http://s83.photobucket.com/albums/j315/tjcombs/Mark%20V%20Resto/?start=0





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