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Messages - mvanmanen

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I would suggest spending some time reading through the Rhodes service manual so you have a sense of order of assembly and adjustments to be made as you are assembling it. Here is the link:

If you get stuck then this (and the online Facebook group) are great places to turn to for advice.

Thanks for the feedback! I have actually already replaced the hammer tips with VV's angled color tips, which are the softest they offer besides the felt ones. I'm really starting to dig the sound, however. FYI, my Rhodes is a 1983 mk II with plastic keys.

I swear I thought 1983 within just a few seconds of hearing your recording Rhodes Flower. The more rhodes you play and listen to then you really can recognize the tonal differences recognizing as people restore them with different parts they are creating different sounding rhodes. It really is wonderful how different each rhodes sounds. It gives those of us with a passion for these instruments many different textures to choose from.

Anyways, I enjoyed your playing and think the piano sounds very nice. I owned a 1983 suitcase for awhile. I really had it sounding quite nice but ultimately it was the action that lead me to sell it.

Buying / Re: Could this Rhodes MkII 1981 Stage be worth the asking price?
« on: December 04, 2020, 11:39:52 PM »
I feel very fortunate to have been to Iceland on a few occasions. It is truly one of the most beautiful, calming places I have visited. I hope you very much enjoy your Rhodes!!!!

Buying / Re: Could this Rhodes MkII 1981 Stage be worth the asking price?
« on: December 03, 2020, 10:44:44 AM »
100% agree with what others posted. That said, I have found myself willing to pay more for a vintage keyboard that is available locally. Being able to thoroughly inspect and play a keyboard, without having to deal with the expense and risks of shipping, is worth least this is how I rationalize it to my wife ;)

There are so many things that might differ between different models of Twins not just related to circuitry but also tubes, speakers, etc. That being said, I would suspect you would find the Twin sounds less compressed and certainly harder to overdrive...although both have a lot of clean headroom. Some of the Hot Rod series app sound a little loose too particularly in the bass register.

I quite like this DI box for use with PA:

I have played one with Rhodes. Definitely a very nice amp and I would not hesitate purchasing one if I came across one in good shape and for the right price. It sounded just a bit more compressed than the twins I have played through. That's not a bad thing...just a bit different.

The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / Re: What's Wrong With My Rhodes?
« on: September 01, 2020, 10:59:06 PM »
Are you able to upload or send a link to a recording of what you are hearing? It seems very odd that it is limited to the middle section of the keyboard...

The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / Re: What's Wrong With My Rhodes?
« on: August 31, 2020, 11:35:41 AM »
Another easy thing to check...check to make sure all of your pick-ups are screwed tightly down.

One of the nicest piano techs in town is Bruce Bishoff:
If you move the electronics out of the way then he could probably tweak the let-off.

You're welcome to borrow my let-off tools as well. I have both the the ones from VV as well as Ebay.
It's actually worth owning both as they are slightly different.

They have a bunch of Wurlitzer's at NMC in Calgary ( if you want to compare to get a sense of what are reasonable expectations to have a Wurlitzer as far as action. Some years ago John Leimseider had adjusted the action on your Wurlitzer before he passed away. I made some adjustments over the years as well but it had sat idle for sometime so could use some tweaking.

The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / Re: 1967 Rhodes Silver Sparkle
« on: August 29, 2020, 10:38:56 PM »
I think it is hard to know the value without some pictures. But if it is complete probably at least $4000-5000 to the right buyer.

If you cannot get a teeny, tiny needle in then I would be inclined to just bead around the edge. The last thing you want to do is damage the key in the process of trying to fix it ;)

I usually just scrape away the old glue with a blade and sandpaper, and obsessively get rid of any dust, and then apply the glue.

I inject superglue with a fine needle between the key caps and frame...and then put a bead of glue along the edge and frame. It's important I think to remove any old glue you can and really give it some time to dry. Not sure if this is professional enough...but it has hold up very well for me and I have not damaged any keys from following this process

Your damper felts look pretty gnarly with long crooked teeth. Are they actually moving clear from the tine to allow it to vibrate on tine strike? If not I would be inclined to just cut away the teeth so you have a flat felt and then bend the damper arm so it is appropriately adjusted to briskly dampen on note release but also not interfere with tine vibration on strike.

Parts, Service, Maintenance & Repairs / Re: Accessory loop and Mark 2
« on: April 26, 2020, 01:33:01 PM »
Gosh I feel silly. I just opened it up while I was waiting for a reply and saw how simple it was. Easy fix.
Thanks Sean!

Parts, Service, Maintenance & Repairs / Accessory loop and Mark 2
« on: April 26, 2020, 10:58:58 AM »
This just started happening:

On late-model suitcase pianos, the effects loop (Accessory 1 & 2) has an internal connection that is temporarily broken when you use the loop. Normally the connection is restored when you unplug your effects loop, but sometimes the internal connection goes bad. Symptoms that the connection is bad include a drop in the piano's volume, along with static that is only heard while you play a key. Try running a short patch cord from Accessory 1 to Accessory 2 as a quick fix for this problem. It should restore the signal to full volume and eliminate the static.

Where is the internal connection that needs fixing so I do not need to keep using a patch cord to bypass the issue?

Thanks so much

I have had this happen to me a number of times with my DUO and then I start to worry one of the pick-ups is going...then I relax and give my switches a really, really, really good clean....and then I work the switches....and then it's all good...Hopefully it is something as simple as this...

I wonder when they'll start cloning electro-mechanical keyboards ;)

For Sale / Re: Rhodes Piano Bass $999
« on: January 09, 2020, 09:09:13 AM »
Enjoy the clavinet!

For Sale / Re: Rhodes Piano Bass $999
« on: January 08, 2020, 03:09:27 PM »
Is the Clavinet for sale too?

Amps, Effects & Recording Techniques / Re: JC-40?
« on: August 06, 2019, 06:43:27 PM »
I recently came into a JC-120. It's a loud amp. If I lived in an apartment I would look at alternatives.

It really is worthwhile bringing your Wurlitzer to a music store and trying out different amps and maybe even a powered speaker to find what you really like. Everyone has their own preferences.


Any chance you could make a recording of it? Retrolinear has one of the best reputations in the restoration business. Without hearing it...I would not dream of making any recommendations.

What is your frame of reference for a Fender Rhodes? Most sampled or digital versions usually do not have the "character" that comes with electromechanical keyboards including the inherent noise of the upper registers from harder tips hitting shorter tines.

Classic & Modern Fender Rhodes Artists / Re: Mr. Clean (Groove Holmes)
« on: March 07, 2019, 03:02:13 PM »
Gosh that is so funky! This is my favourite recording:

Buying / Re: Clean Rhodes 78 or ugly 72?
« on: March 03, 2019, 11:55:16 PM »
$500 seems like a great price. If the 72 were near me I would snag it in a second.

If you have a chance to post some pictures please share.  :)

Buying / Re: Clean Rhodes 78 or ugly 73?
« on: March 02, 2019, 08:44:13 AM »
Offer him $1000 for the pair  ;)

The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / Re: How to save a bad tine?
« on: February 28, 2019, 09:47:19 AM »
I usually square off the ends of my tines after cutting them...this one does not appear to have been nicely cut...nor is the rest nice and cylindrical as you mentioned previously....I think you should replace the tine

Replacing hammer tips is something that just needs to be done as they get grooved, harden, worn, etc. from use and time. Thankfully there are lots of people who sell them (Vintage vibe, Ken Rich, Retrolinear, etc.) as mentioned. I am pretty sure that the ones offered by Ken Rich and Retrolinear are the same. I have had great experience with them, and those offered by Vintage Vibe.

Here is a video showing the process:

Fresh hammer tips is probably the best money and time I have ever spent on making my clavinets sound awesome!

also... what is the outlet under the "ia" under the words "Stage Piano" ?

I bet you this is the jack for a power you would find on a guitar pedal. Perhaps it is one of those mini power supply jacks like you find on some older MXR pedals, tube screamers, etc.

It is possible one of the input jacks bypasses the electronics and you can simply plug and play from the front, and certainly you can plug and play directly off of the RCA jack once you have the correct cord as Cormac described. The reason for plugging into the RCA jack is that this is probably the fastest way to verify everything before the electronics in the signal pathway is functioning appropriately (and honestly may ultimately get you the best sound as all of these electronics may suck tone).

I think there must be a battery or power cord to supply the custom electronics...but having never seen these custom electronics I have no idea how they work.

It looks like a really interesting Fender Rhodes. Congratulations on the purchase. I am sure you will get it playing soon :)

I cannot see really well what is going on with the wiring of all of the knobs. I imagine for people to be of assistance you are going to have to unscrew the harp and take some more detailed pictures of the wiring...unless someone on the forum recognizes this effect/preamp unit from the posted pictures. If you are anxious to just get playing. You could plug an RCA cable directly into the harp and tap the signal while you are figuring out the electronics.

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