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Messages - alenhoff

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Other Keyboards & Software Synths / Re: Gibson G-201
« on: December 06, 2018, 11:00:40 AM »
>>Actually I messaged him and he did say it would come with a matching bench.>>

Maybe you found another eBay G101 auction.  I was talking about this one:  The seller acknowledges in the description that the orange and black colors of the bench indicate that it came from a G201.


Other Keyboards & Software Synths / Re: Gibson G-201
« on: December 06, 2018, 07:49:39 AM »
I just found it on Reverb.  Nice looking organ!

The pedals aren't easy to find -- and when you do find them, they can be quite pricey.  From a functional standpoint, the bass pedals don't add much, IMHO.  (As I recall, they just duplicated the sounds of the lowest octave of the bottom manual.) But they do look cool!

If it helps, the volume and bass pedals you need are identical to those sold with the Gibson G101 and the Lowrey T2 organ.  The volume pedal may also be the same as the Lowrey T1 pedal, but I can't confirm that.  (You'd probably know that, given your screen name.)  The bass pedals used on the Farfisa Compact series organs and the Lowrey T1 are identical to the G201 pedals except that they use a different connector to the organ.  Finding an original connector would take some sleuthing.

BTW, there's now a Gibson G101 organ on eBay now that's being sold with a black and orange G201 bench.  If you really wanted a G201 bench, maybe you could convince the seller to sell it separately, since it doesn't match the organ he is selling anyway.


Other Keyboards & Software Synths / Re: Gibson G-201
« on: December 03, 2018, 07:19:09 AM »
Under the lid, you'll find 12 tone generator cards like these:

The tall cans, each marked for a note, are the tuning coils. Turn on the organ and let it warm up for about 15 minutes. Use an allen wrench through the top of the cans to very slowly and carefully rotate the cores to tune the notes.  (You can damage them with rapid movements.)  Clockwise raises the pitch; counter-clockwise flattens the pitch. When the metal allen wrench is in the coil, it will affect the pitch, so tune them to the pitch you hear AFTER you have removed the wrench.  (This will take some trial and error to get right.)  Each coil will tune all of the notes (on both keyboards) with that name. (In other words, tuning the C coil, will tune all the C's on your organ.) So tuning those 12 coils will tune all the keys on the organ.


For Sale / Re: FS: Kustom Kombo tuck-and-roll combo organ
« on: November 10, 2018, 01:32:40 PM »

For Sale / FS: Kustom Kombo tuck-and-roll combo organ
« on: November 07, 2018, 08:55:50 PM »
A real unique collector's item: A 1967 Kustom Kombo organ. Black tuck-and-roll Naugahyde. Organ is in very nice cosmetic shape, and has a very unique, versatile and full sound for a combo organ. It's playable, but has a short list of small electronic issues, so it can use a trip to a tech.  The organ originally had four 12" speakers in its built-in amp.  It now has replacements (vintage Rolas), and one is missing. A previous owner set it up with half-moon switches (speed and echo) and a Leslie kit, so that it can either be used with a Leslie or through its internal amp.  Because it looks so good, it's a great candidate for restoration.  Must be picked up at my home in southeast Michigan.  Price is highly negotiable.  Let me know if you are interested or have questions.

For reference, here's some info about this organ:


The Wurlitzer Electric Piano / Re: Wurlitzer 140b
« on: October 31, 2018, 10:06:17 PM »
Prices for many vintage keyboards tend to be erratic, but I'd expect that yours (assuming it's in the US) would fetch maybe $1,100 to $1,500. I'm assuming that "slight hum" isn't too bad, but that at its age, it needs some skilled electronic and mechanical tech work to make it sound and play its best.  You might be at the high end of the range if you are willing to ship it or you live near major music centers  (like NYC, LA).  Figure less than that range if you are in a hurry to sell it, or if you want to sell it locally in an area without a large, active music community. 


>>Doesn't sound very useful to me. >>

Sean, what you've described is exactly what they were trying to achieve -- filtering out the upper harmonics to leave a more pure fundamental bass tone.  Without that, the PB would sound like the lowest 32 notes of a Rhodes 73, rather than like a bass guitar.


Here's a schematic someone posted on  I can't vouch for the accuracy of it.


The Wurlitzer Electric Piano / Re: Some DIY reflections
« on: August 13, 2018, 04:47:00 PM »
I was listening to some early Ray Charles versions of What'd I Say and I can hear some slightly out of tune notes as well as one or two that are a little dead-sounding.

What a great song! What a great performer!  That said, the piano he plays on that song is just beyond awful.  Some of the buzzy, dead notes sound like he's plucking rubber bands.

It's just a reminder that a great artist can make even the worst instrument sing.


The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / Re: 1978 Suitcase Amp Distortion
« on: June 30, 2018, 04:10:48 PM »
Do you have the Janus/Haigler amp in yours? (Identifiable by the bass and treble sliders above the keys.)

If so, there is a common issue that can cause distortion and intermittent issues. There are Molex connectors on the power amp that are held in place by nothing but solder.  Sometimes, re-soldering them (and then securing the connectors in place with a little hot glue to prevent a recurrence) can solve the problem.

Even if this is not your issue, it's well worth doing as preventive maintenance.

Here are two threads to read that will tell you all you need to know about this issue:



Parts, Service, Maintenance & Repairs / Re: Wurlitzer 140B
« on: June 14, 2018, 12:45:02 PM »
By the way, Vintage Vibe sells a kit with all the parts you would need:


Parts, Service, Maintenance & Repairs / Re: Wurlitzer 140B
« on: June 14, 2018, 12:42:27 PM »
I can't help you track down the issues you mention. (Although I suppose the low volume might have resulted from someone turning down the gain control on the amp.)  But your photos suggest all your components are original, which makes them about 50 years old.  I would suggest a re-build.

Several years ago, I re-built mine, mostly following this plan from Vintage Vibe.  I replaced all the electrolytic caps (including the filter caps in the cans), the small transistors (look for extra low-noise ones) and the power resistors. I don't believe I changed the power transistors.  The before/after difference was dramatic.  People say the 140B amp is inherently noisy, but mine sounds great, and ought to be reliable for years.

The 140B is a great Wurli. It deserves an amp working at its best.


The Wurlitzer Electric Piano / Re: Tuning one note
« on: June 12, 2018, 10:03:02 PM »
So, should I loosen it and slide it slightly backwards?

Yes! Always try the easiest (and most easily reversible) solution first. Moving the reed forward or back is how Wurlitzer taught its techs to make small tuning adjustments. Don't pull out a file or soldering iron unless you can't change the pitch enough by moving the reed. (And if you do need to remove or add solder, it's critical to retain the proper pyramid shape of the solder.)


Other Keyboards & Software Synths / Re: Duo end blocks
« on: May 28, 2018, 08:58:29 PM »
You might want to contact Peter Hayes, who occasionally posts to this list. Peter does a lot of Clavinet restoration at Electronic Edge in Yellow Springs, Ohio.  He might be able to restore or replace your blocks,  or share a restoration technique.


Great that your tech was able to cure the tremolo tick. I'm still attempting to address that issue on my old Twin. I'm about to change the tube ground and hopefully that will solve it.

Check the link in one of the previous posts in this thread to see the Fender Service Bulletin on this issue, which suggested adding a cap in the vibrato circuit and re-dressing some leads.


Other Keyboards & Software Synths / Re: Gibson key problem
« on: May 16, 2018, 07:23:15 AM »
I'd like to get back to making them, just need to think of an interesting angle that's actually doable...hopefully soon now that Gibson's back up to snuff.

I'll look forward to seeing them.


My only slight gripe about the tremolo is that I think it is a bit too fast for what I want to hear with the Rhodes. (I generally have the speed set near its slowest setting.)  I know there are ways to modify this, too, but I've decided that it's probably good enough as is.

I changed my mind, and made the mod.  With help from an electronics forum, I learned there are three caps in series in the Twin's tremolo circuit: A 0.02 uf, and a pair of 0.01uf caps.  I changed the value of the two 0.01 caps to 0.02 and it slows the tremolo to a far more useful range.  The lowest speed is now, for lack of a better description, like a slow heartbeat.  And the fast speed is still a blur.  (Just to make sure that the mod would be apparent to a new buyer if I ever sell it, I added the additional capacitance by paralleling additional caps, rather than swapping out the original caps.

I highly recommend this mod to owners of Twins and other Fender amps that share this tremolo circuit. And a reminder to all:  Make sure you discharge the filter caps before working on a tube amp!


Other Keyboards & Software Synths / Re: Gibson key problem
« on: May 15, 2018, 12:57:49 PM »
Good work! That's great to hear!  It's hard to diagnose problems over the Internet, but sometimes we get lucky.  And now you know a little more about how your organ works.

(By the way, are you the same Chris who has some very nice Vox and Gibson Doors covers on YouTube?)


Other Keyboards & Software Synths / Re: Gibson key problem
« on: May 09, 2018, 06:04:44 PM »

The first step is to rule out a mechanical issue.

I'm not sure from your description whether you got into the key contacts, but that's where I'd start.  Take off the long flat aluminum panel on the underside of the organ and take a look at what's happening when you press the B key and adjacent keys. When you strike a note, the key sends a plastic pusher down toward the key contact, pushing it into making contact with the busbar that actuates the tone.  I'm wondering whether the B pusher might be higher above the contact than those on other notes. If so, you may not be hearing the tone until the key has been depressed to the bottom of its travel. The plastic pusher is screwed on, and its height can be adjusted by rotating it. Does that make a difference?

If not, try cleaning the B contact and the busbar with contact cleaner or isopropyl alcohol (90% or higher solution).  If that doesn't do it, look to see whether the contact might be bent, and doesn't make good contact with the busbar when the note is depressed.


Thank you.


Yes, the information is still useful.  Does yours have the large Gibson badge on the "audience side" of the drop-down panel?


My tech did two mods on my amp:

1) When I got it, the tremolo was ticking quite noticeably, even when I was not playing.  This is apparently a very common issue on Fender amps of the era, and is addressed by Fender Service Bulletin #9 by adding a cap and re-dressing some wires. Take a look here:

2)  He also made a mod in the reverb circuit that he said cured a "blown speaker" kind of sound that I might hear on sustained bass notes with the reverb on. I don't know what this mod included.

My only slight gripe about the tremolo is that I think it is a bit too fast for what I want to hear with the Rhodes. (I generally have the speed set near its slowest setting.)  I know there are ways to modify this, too, but I've decided that it's probably good enough as is.


Excellent!  Good work!  (And nice of you to post the solution in case others have this issue.)


I'm definitely loving the Twin.  I'm taking the signal directly off the harp of my '74 Stage, and the sound is wonderful.

The amp was re-capped before I bought it. My tech says it's putting out its full rated power (and it's quiet), so I guess the tubes are fine. The tech said he'd replace the speakers (a pair of original Fender-branded Rolas that are in great shape), but he's a guitar guy. ;-)  I can't imagine that at the clean, home volume levels I use that replacing the speakers would make any difference to me.  I do like to keep things original, too, when I can.


Other Keyboards & Software Synths / Re: Mute Slider
« on: March 19, 2018, 09:04:48 PM »
A related issue I'm curious about: Does anyone actually use the mute on a Clavinet?  Maybe for quiet practice?  I can't say I've ever used mine, except to test whether it worked.

(That said, I can certainly relate to occasionally restoring features on vintage keys that I will never use. Don't ask me how much time and money I spent getting the percussion working on my Gibson G101 organ, when I really have little or no use for the percussion.  It just seemed like the right thing to do.) ;-)


This is still useful. Thank you both.


The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / Re: Post your Rhodes pics and its story
« on: February 06, 2018, 03:56:28 PM »
Great job!  Now there's one more beautiful Rhodes in the world...


The Wurlitzer Electric Piano / Re: Is that original ?
« on: February 05, 2018, 07:41:35 AM »
I have a picture of Richard Carpenter playing a black Wurlitzer with those smaller stickers on the sides, like yours. That picture was from May 1973, playing at the White House for President Nixon.
I also have another picture where he's playing a black Wurly with the larger sticker on the back, like the one VV sells. That larger sticker can also be seen on the back of Sha Na Na's tan top 200 in the movie 'Woodstock'.

You can see that sticker on the side of Richard Carpenter's piano in this video of the White House event that Jam88 mentions, starting at about 3:40:


Some thoughts about value in case they are helpful:

The Kalamazoo models are definitely worth more than the Gibson-branded ones because of the Ray connection and the fact that they are not often seen. But because so few Kalamazoos are sold, it's really hard to say how much the Kalamazoo nameplate adds to the value.

The Gibsons used to reliably sell for upwards of $2,000, and occasionally more. But maybe five years ago, the prices started dropping. Today, $1,000 to $1,500 seems to be more typical on eBay, depending on condition. But not many of these get sold either, so there is no reliable, established market price.

Yours has the volume pedal, music stand and optional bass pedals. These are often missing and add to the value. You don't say whether you have the lid. On the negative side, yours has been painted (and it's unclear from the photo whether some of the paint is covering areas where the Tolex may be completely stripped off).  So, maybe the paint can be removed and the organ can look original -- or maybe it can't be. (There is no Tolex available on the market today to recover either the unique green/blue or linen-colored vinyl with something that looks original.) It seems to me that this would be a major negative for the kind of buyer/collector who would be willing to pay a premium for one of these with a Kalamazoo logo.

Just my guess:  I think that if the organ's vinyl was in decent original shape (can you strip the paint before you sell it?), you could get $2,000-$2,500 for it. As it is, maybe $1,000 less?  The market for these is relatively small. So you may have to be patient to find a buyer, and it will be more difficult to sell if you are not willing to ship it.

(For what it's worth, a Kalamazoo sold last week on eBay for about $2,700, but it appeared to be in exceptional shape. I cannot remember seeing another on eBay in several years.)

Good luck!


It appears your piano is from the Summer of '74 (mid July), as it has many of the characteristic cosmetic features of that period:
wood harp supports
hybrid hammers
four top latches
solid wood keys with a two-piece cap, of which the thinner vertical face is dis-colored. 
gold foil sticker lacking the word "Fender"
the faded, or lightly stamped four digit date code on the upper right corner of the pickup rail, which would indicate 28th week of '74.  At this point, I think I've seen more faded green and black stamps from this period than clear stamps. Moreso faded green actually.

I suspect your hinges are replacements, as the heavier duty hinges didn't appear until late '75/ early '76

I agree with Ray. I have a June '74 Stage:  Faint green TBJ number 2374, final assembly stamp of 2644 in red on the harp support (26th week of 1974 on Thursday, or three weeks before yours).  All my specs are the same as yours, except, as Ray noted, the hinges are different.

I see your name rail is missing the Rhodes logo.  Mine was a transition model as they were moving to Rhodes-only logos:  I have Rhodes-only on the gold foil sticker, but Fender Rhodes on both the name rail and the back of the case.  Yours may have originally been equipped the same way. They were probably just using up the old FR badges until they ran out.

As Ray said, this is a great year for a Rhodes, a real sweet spot in the production cycle.  You bought a winner!


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