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Messages - drpepper

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The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / Re: How good is the Bump Mod?
« on: April 18, 2021, 08:05:25 AM »
Hi Cookymonster,

Yes my piano is an early 1975 also. If you are not happy with the bump mod, you should try without....

Interesting we got the pretty much the same solution. I am sure, covered in felt it will feel about the same.

I am still trying some new shapes, but agree that this is an improvement, I am not 100% convinced it's perfect.
The does reduce the hammer throw distance, but I am not sure what that actually means.

I don't expect to achieve the same action feel as a wurli, just something that I can enjoy more. 

The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / Re: How good is the Bump Mod?
« on: April 07, 2021, 09:43:56 AM »
I have created a new video on my custom bumps, for the Fender Rhodes mk1 action.
It also shows how to download them in you are interested in trying them.

The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / Re: How good is the Bump Mod?
« on: April 02, 2021, 02:48:14 AM »

Hmmm... if the STL file were available online, this would easily justify the purchase cost of a 3D printer.

Thanks Sean, if this post doesn't tempt you my next 3 might....haha. I have a few more ideas in the works.

The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / Re: How good is the Bump Mod?
« on: April 02, 2021, 02:42:47 AM »
I'm really not an expert on Rhodes' actions, but one thing that may concern others is the reduced hammer throw distance, as you can see that the mod noticeably sits the hammers above the other notes. This may actually reduce dynamic range by reducing the max velocity of the hammer. I suppose the next step, then, would be measuring the output and "bark" from a standardized hard strike on the modded notes compared with unmodded or bump modded notes. Additionally, your dampers will not mute with as much force if your hammers are resting high enough to tension the bridle straps, so watch out for that. Other than that, which may or may not matter, more power to you! I'd love to see more reports on this as you perfect it.

Thank you

Two good points there,
Reduced hammer throw - yes, if the pedestal is the only thing changed the volume and ability to get bit drops off. But I lowered the escapement and this brought up the volume and bite. I suspect a bit of bite is lost thought I am still playing with shape and escapement. I was able to get the volume to match the unaltered keys, that was how I measured it. Though agree might be worth looking at this more.

Reduced damper force - Once more if the pedestal was the only thing changed the notes still dampen, but there is noticeable loss in force. Reducing the escapement solved this issue also. 

But playability and dynamic range is so much better, at this point in the video I go from whisper quiet to a bit of bite.
This wasn't an option before.

The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / How good is the Bump Mod?
« on: April 01, 2021, 07:48:13 AM »
I have been playing around with my action on the 1975 mk1 Rhodes, hybrid hammer, flat pedestal piano.

The bump mod improves it, but it doesn't feel natural to me or what I want.
I have tried to measure the improvements the Bump Mod offers with a rig I have setup.

This has led me to design my own bump/mod and I think I like a lot more - I have got action feeling similar to my WurliTzer action.
I still want to play around with the shape a bit more.

I have put what I have created in this youtube video

I am interested in what others with more experience think of my idea.

I did have to setup the escapement lower for this setup, but I finally have a dynamic range as seen in the video.

The Wurlitzer Electric Piano / Re: 200a cheap amp replacement
« on: February 25, 2021, 07:51:06 AM »
Just out of interest what is wrong with the current amp?
If you consider your wurli as an investment you might deprecate the value more than you save going cheap.

Other Keyboards & Software Synths / Re: Homemade electric piano
« on: February 16, 2021, 05:10:13 PM »
I am looking forward to see how this works out. So far it looks amazing.
I have been working on my own rhodes/wurli inspired DIY piano design but it needs some work.

Parts, Service, Maintenance & Repairs / Re: DIY £20 Wurlitzer Pedal
« on: February 14, 2021, 10:32:46 AM »
The lever is stiff enough you cant feel a difference, I think if you put all your weight on it there might be issues, but  the same could be said for the original pedal.
Yes it would be easy to make changes to lower the pedal or change the shape - there is no reason its this high that I can tell.

Green was just PLA I had at hand that wouldn't look too out of place. 

Parts, Service, Maintenance & Repairs / DIY £20 Wurlitzer Pedal
« on: February 13, 2021, 06:30:02 PM »
My Goal was to create a 3D printed Wurlitzer sustain pedal that would be affordable. The original design is reasonably basic, a wooden box with some cast fittings and what I guess is a motorbike clutch cable. When the pedal is pressed it pulls the cable that then pulls the exposed threaded rod on the bottom of the Wurlitzer piano and disengages the dampers.
With the prices of electric pianos sky rocketing, so have some of the accessories, there are original Wurlitzer sustain pedals for sale now with a buy it now that’s higher than I have paid for complete pianos.

Pedal Design

End Fitting Design

Parts List and Costs
•   PLA 1.75mm Filament £15/kg Total £4.52
o   Pedal – 56g - £0.84
o   Enclosure – 200g - £3.00
o   Access Door – 12g - £0.18
o   Cable Clamp – 1g - £0.02
o   Hose Clamp – 5g – £0.08
o   End Fitting – 17g - £0.26
o   Ferrule – 9g – £0.14
•   1x Spring
•   1x Bicycle Brake Cable – £3.99
•   1x 2mm Aluminium Sheet - £6
•   1x Self Adhesive Velcro Hooks
•   4x M3 x 20mm Socket Head Cap
•   2x M3 Nuts
•   2x M5 15mm Hex Head
•   2x M5 Nuts
•   1x ¼” UNC Nut *
•   1x M6 x 35mm Hex Head bolt
•   2x 3mm x 15mm Wood Screws
•   2x 3mm x 30mm Wood Screws

Note* - This nut is the most important item to get correct. Using the wrong size will damage the piano as it will damage the threads on the piano. A M6 nut will feel like it fits for a turn or two then it starts to damage the piano.
The parts I haven’t put a price on are stuff I have laying around. Though I don’t think these would add to much so I have assumed £5 for these are any good fastener specialist could gather up for you.

Pedal – Part Design

Pedal – Cable Clamp
Two M3 20mm bolts clamp the brake cable to the clamp. These do not require nuts as the tolerance is tight allowing the bolts to thread into the pedal.

Pedal Hinge
M6 35mm Bolt provides a pivot for pedal.

The clamp plate above the pedal features a bracket to allow the spring to connect the pedal and the enclosure.

Spring Connection on Pedal

Enclosure – Cable Outer Clamp
The enclosure has a removable side panel, that allows all the clamps and bolts to be inserted and adjusted.

Side Access Panel

End Fitting - Assembly

The brake cable needs to be threaded though the ferrule and then the ¼” UNC nut can slot into the end. The end fitting has a clamp to hold the brake cable outer. 2 x M3  20mm bolts are used in the clamp. The end fitting a little longer and wider than the original as this now made of plastic, the extra size makes up for the loss in material strength.

3d Printed End Fitting

Finished 3D Printed Pedal

Finished Pedal next to original Pedal
The 3D printed part is created in layers, these show up in the photos and can be felt with a finger, but during use this only adds grip.

Comparison with Original

Overall the weight of the peal has dropped significantly.
•   Steel replaced with aluminium for base plate
•   Rubber replaced with Velcro for grip surface
•   Metal replaced with plastic for pedal
•   Metal replaced with plastic for end fitting
•   Small diameter cable and housing

Print Time
•   22 hours.
o   Pedal – 3 hours
o   Enclosure – 13 hours (Compromises in print settings were made to reduce this)
o   Access Door – 1 hour
o   Cable Clamp –  1hour
o   Hose Clamp – 1 hour
o   End Fitting – 2 hours
o   Ferrule – 1 hour

The Enclosure Mid Print

As the pedal geometry is based on the original the pedal feels the same as the original. After a couple of hours playing, I saw no issues. 

The pedal performs just like the original for a fraction of the prices of a replacement. Will it last another 50years – I doubt it. Can it take the same load as the original – I also doubt it.
Does it cost a fraction of price and do the job it needs to – yes.

Parts, Service, Maintenance & Repairs / Re: impossible escapement
« on: January 06, 2021, 05:07:29 PM »
Some photos might help

Does anyone know the dimensions of the Rhodes pickup bobbin? I want to make some and don't really want to butcher a working one for science.
Alternatively anyone in the UK have a dead pickup I could buy?
I hope you don't mind me posting this on this post but I think it ties in with spec.

My advice would be to have a go at doing it yourself.

There is a range of knowledge in the previous threads here and across the web and if you have any issues just post them on here.

These instruments needs require regular work as they adjust over time and being able to quickly open the lid to adjust the voicing of one tine that sounds out will allow you to keep playing.

As far as I am aware there is nothing that can really be done to these that can't be undone (correct me if i am wrong).

The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / Re: Zinc Plating On Tone Bars
« on: January 29, 2018, 04:31:21 AM »
Just a thought... could you chrome the tone bars? that wouldn't add too much mass and would look pretty amazing.
Personally though I would just leave them as they are.

For Sale / Re: Wurlitzer 200 UK WTT
« on: August 08, 2017, 07:13:51 AM »
hi, is this still for sale? also where abouts are you?

When I bought my Rhodes suitcase it had foil taped to the inside of the harp cover, I asked the owner is to reduce hum?
and he said no it was due to the club he regularly played at the stage was the same side of the venue as where the taxis waited to pick people up outside.
The taxi radios would get picked up by the piano and the radio would play over the PA.

I believe he said this worked so I would try that for cheap easy fix

I would imagine it wouldnt be that hard

110v power tools all require a heavy duty 240v to 110v transformer to operate, you cahnge the us socket to one for those?

I think some of these may give out a little audio hum - something to look out for

looks like some interesting work

The orange cap looks to be a filter cap - this will filter out any noise a poor power supply will generate.

Under it I notice some power resistors - I would guess these are to drop the input voltage to the correct voltage, but since I guess you don't know what the mod input voltage was these will be of little help.

The power socket on the front is also the output as there are 4 pins. (ground, +dc, left out and right out)

Changing this back to stock doesn't look too hard as it looks like maybe only mods on the power supply

I have recently taken on a similiar project here -

is the old one safe?
does it have an earth?

Parts, Service, Maintenance & Repairs / Re: DIY Rhodes pickup problem
« on: April 02, 2015, 08:19:13 AM »
The phase is determined from the magnet polarity and the direction of the windings, you will need to work out if your winding match the standard setup to determine which orientation is needed for the magnet

I use a twin reverb and think it is fine at low volumes, sure the louder it gets the more amazing it is. It does eat up a good amount of space but think it is worth it. If you want some sound samples  I can send you them.

The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / What is in your lid?
« on: March 23, 2015, 06:17:24 PM »
I thought it could be a good idea to ask what people are currently keeping in their lids and what they ideally would keep in there if on tour. If you bought a piano have you aquire anything unplanned in the lid? Are there and stories of lid treasure saving the day?

Currently in my lid is-
Spare tines
original logo of the rhodes
spare hammer tips
spare damper with felts

When I aquired my piano it contained the missing parts for the piano action which was nice.
So nothing that exciting. What's in yours?

One issue I am working on with the rhodes is that when a note is ringing out and I release my finger from the key, the damper engages, but on a couple of notes it makes a quark noise, does anyone know the cause of this? Is the angle of the felt wrong?

looks really good
looking forward to seeing this finished
what is your plan with legs? and electronics?

thank you for this
i will put it to good use!

great work!

i need a table saw :( life would be so much easier with one

I have given this amp a good going over and it still needs a bit more tweaking but I thought I would share what I have done so far as I am sure this group has its fair share of vintage equipment that requires continuous love and attention.

removing the pan cover reveals the filtering caps

i am sure all amps will have some form of filtering caps, they are there to filter out any noise from the power supply

i like that fact they are made of card....

on closer inspection they are bubbling and leaking, which is bad

some treasure in the post

its impressive how much smaller modern caps are, if you are changing caps on anything, help the next person to look at it by placing the information on the outside

after putting in a new set of tubes and caps the amp is silent when it should be and sounds amazing

the amp also now runs much cooler, i would guess that some of the caps where leaking dc current which was cooking the tubes and pushing the power transformer much harder than needed.  remember to check your caps! reading online advice says to replace them every 10 years!

The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / Re: The Rare "Black" Sparkle Top
« on: March 19, 2015, 02:51:02 AM »
Is the voltage switch that dangerous? If you are running at 110v then moving this switch will just reduce the number of turns in the primary coil, which, will reduce voltage.
if the lowest setting on this switch is 110v then this will only be able to reduce the voltages in the Rhodes. I have not really heard of anything that is dangerous when less voltage is applied, though I could be wrong?
I would expect the Rhodes just to turn off.

on the other hand if you were putting 240v into the Rhodes and someone moved it, all voltages would increase.....this could be bad...very bad.


For Sale / Re: 1970 Red Top Wurlitzer piano
« on: March 11, 2015, 06:54:23 PM »
any chance you are in the uk?
this is next on my list

i think i have solved the issue of the amp

1971 twin reverb
It was some what of bargain due to the required work

The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / Re: New to Forum, new to me Rhodes
« on: January 29, 2015, 05:11:04 PM »
looking forward to seeing how you get on.
i also had the clicking issue, and pinned it down to a cap

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