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Are you sure its the sides? 
Do you have calipers at your disposal to verify?
What about the felts?  Does it need to be eased?

(Just questions, with a boatload if disclaimers and precursors.)

Definitely not sure of anything, but I figured that since it sticks regardless of the octave that it is the fit with other keys. I do have calipers - what should I measure? I'm sure since the key is wood it will flex with temperature and humidity. The bridles are fine, and the felts are fine too, as they play fine with other Bs in their place.

If I misunderstood - my apologies - let me know.

I've read other posts, but this case is clean, we literally just built it and I've looked - there is nothing inside there. The hammer isn't stuck between tines. It's just the key.

I've moved this B Key around to a few spots and it displays the same behavior, so I'm pretty sure its the key. Other B Keys work in that keys location. Is the key malformed? Can I just sand it down on either side?

Case is coming along. Does anyone have any hints on the metal corners? Mine from Vintage Vibe are quite rounded and I don't think they will fit quite right if I just screw them on.

I have a preamp, but need to drill holes in my name rail, as it is undrilled. Does anyone have those dimensions?

It would appear my balance rail is tilted back quite a few degrees. I'm not sure what to do about that. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Hi :-)

This is pretty normal and the way its supposed to be.

See this pic from the manual:

You cannot view this attachment.

Jenzz

Thank you so much!
Follow up as I go through the vintage vibe restoration kit.
My pedestal tops are not straight as they are in the manual, should I still install the "miracle" mod?

It would appear my balance rail is tilted back quite a few degrees. I'm not sure what to do about that. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

I'm starting the refurb and the vintage vibe video says the first thing to do is correct the keybed, but the keys seem totally tiled. Is shimming the action board the right  way to fix this?

nm just found it - https://www.vintagevibe.com/products/fender-rhodes-vintage-damper-rails?variant=899479595 wow I'm missing a lot of parts!

Looking at the manual, am I correct that this is a Damper Release Bar? I don't have a sustain pedal or any sustain mechanism and it seems like this part is related to that, is that correct? Vintage Vibe doesn't seem to have one as far as I can tell. Any hints as to how to find one?

In this video at the 2:51 mark, the tech removes a metal... thing.
My rhodes does not have that. What is that part and its function?

Nevermind, I found a sketchup file from Shade Tree.

Thank you. Would you be willing to measure the height of the front of the rhodes body and the rear?

One other thing, your Rhodes appears to be missing the harp mounting screws. Unless you just have them out for the photos they are a crucial part of your Rhodes and should be installed any time you aren't actively working on it.

Ok. I bought the brackets. Where do the harp mounting screws go? I'll probably source those from a hardware store (one-inch #12).

I saw a Rhodes on reverb showing the middle supports, so now I know the part. I'll pick some up. Interested to see what the difference is.

I also have one stuck key that I can't figure out.
https://youtu.be/unxRmO8GTsQ

Hi,

Just to clarify, are you trying to build a new KMC body, stage case, suitcase top, or something custom?

There is a chance that the early KMC internals won't fit into a stage/suitcase case so a custom case might be your safest bet. The dimensions changed over the years so you would need the measurements from a 1970 Rhodes if you were to make a reproduction one. If you go custom, you could ensure its a perfect fit and looks exactly like you want it to.


Edit: Just looked at the photo again and it looks like you are missing the harp support bracket in the middle of the keyboard. I would recommend getting one ASAP as it is an integral part of the harp's structure.

Thanks for your thoughtful response.
The case would be a stage style case. I agree that custom would be better, so I suppose I am just looking for the heights of the front vs back of the side board so I can get the angle right.

Forgive my ignorance about the harp support.
The attached are the harp supports on the sides, correct?

I couldn't find anything about installing a middle support on https://www.fenderrhodes.com/org/manual/ch3.html.
Is it this part: https://www.vintagevibe.com/products/fender-rhodes-harp-side-brackets ?
It says side support so I expect not.
The second attachment is what mine looks like in more detail. It has metal on the sides, back and front.

Hello,

I picked up a fairly beat up 73 Rhodes Instructor Model Piano last month (Model: fr-7055, March 1970). I restored it to playability, but it still needs a "body."
The prior owner (or prior prior owner) basically cut off everything except for the supporting plywood bottom (see picture).
According to: https://chicagoelectricpiano.com/rhodes/rhodes-7055-student-model-an-in-depth-look/
The tines etc.. are the same as on a 73, so I would like to build a new 73 case for it from scratch (bottom top sides etc...).
I'll probably need a new Name Rail, and I'm open to building the replacement electronics as well.
I do still have the plastic "seventy three" lid but as is without the case, it just kind of awkwardly sits on top.
I searched but couldn't find the dimensions for a 73 case, can anyone help?

Thank you all for your attention in chiming in.
I am a fool. I unscrewed the hammer, and it was loose in the Hammer Hinge.
Upon close inspection, one of the hammer's nibs that goes in the hinge had snapped.
I have ordered a new one. Also: I was incorrect, I have wood/plastic combo hammers.
I will chime in once I get a new hammer and replace it.

Hello,

I picked up a fairly beat up 73 Rhodes Instructor Model Piano last month (Model: fr-7055, March 1970) and am mid-restoration. Besides tuning and cleaning and the basics, it also needed two new tines, and a bridle strap replaced. I replaced and retuned the new tines easily enough, and used a vintage vibe video to guide me in the replacing of the bridle strap.

In the video, they appear to be using one of their plastic hammers, which appears to snap in and out. My hammers are the original wood hammers. I replaced the bridle, but now my hammer is out of alignment, and often strikes in between the two tines, getting stuck.

To be clear, I:
Unscrewed the hammer.
Removed the old bridle from the hammer.
Removed the old bridle from the metal damper piece.
Inserted the new bridle
Glued it in per the video
Placed the hammer and reconnected the bridle to the metal damper
Re-screwed the hammer.

To my knowledge, the hammers don't click in and out, should they? Am I missing something?

Thanks!