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I wasn't aware of that- thanks! I did find an adapter for the phones and found the jack and trim work perfectly with no hum. I'll set out to find the product you suggested. I've heard the item mentioned here before thinking it only applied to the 200.

Thanks again...Rich

Hi Jenzz, appreciate your help! When I use the HP out jack to connect to the amp I get a loud hum similar to a bad ground. The hum is there regardless of what the trim pot is set to. I can't check for hum through my phones because they all have mini ends or are Bluetooth. I guess that would be the next step in searching for the problem so I'll need to get an adapter. I recently gutted the Wurli to inspect, clean, lube and adjust the action, and use contact cleaner on the pots, trims, and jacks. The piano has very little play time on it however it has been in storage for 20 years. All the wiring looks solid.

Rich

I'm using the aux jack on the Wurli to an external amp so effects can be used. This is a stay at home piano. The external amp is set to a relatively low volume therefore the internal speakers wash out the full effect of the effects, even with the piano volume down.

I could change the aux jack to one that bypasses the internal speakers when a cord is plugged in but am under the impression that amplifiers should not be run without a load (ie. Speakers) connected or severe amp damage will occur. Would this be true with the small Wurli amp? If so what is the most economical work around?

Thanks...Rich

I found the problem, one that I've read about so many times. It IS the large top shield. Looks like it is directly screwed to the harps so I'm not sure where or what is causing the short. I'll loosen the shield mounting screws and position it higher. I don't know why pressing the knobs back on would cause a short involving the top rail. At least I can rule out bad solder

Other than that, since my serving the action  there is a noticeable improvement regarding consistent sound (no more hot spots) and a major improvement with the action.

Could the shorting episodes have caused damage somewhere or is a a case where it would work or it wouldn't?

Thanks again...Rich

Thanks for your responses guys. I respect and value your insight. I'll try the aux out approach and if no luck reflow the solder joints, which I was putting off. I wasn't aware the joints could look good (shiny/tight) and still be bad. I have a variable heat pencil soldering set I can use.

I removed everything from the piano to inspect, clean and lube. The only snag is I can't figure where a ground wire leads to. It connects to the front center (to the front right of the preamp on a 200A). I can't get my picture file small enough to attach.

Thanks...Rich

To the best of my knowledge it was manufactured in 82'. I bought it NOS in 2008. After playing it for an hour or so the sound cut out. I opened it up and gently pressed down on the amp board and the sound was back, temporarily. I examined the PCB for bad solder joints or breaks anywhere in the trace but everything is solid. I got fed up and put the piano in storage back in 2008 until just a couple of weeks ago. It played good for an hour then cut out. I used contact spray on the volume, vibrato, and pcb trim pot working them good while doing so. It worked until (lid back on) I started to press the volume knob back on. Removing the lid, this time I gently pushed the trim pot and the sound was back. I sprayed more cleaner and worked the trim pot. All pots seem solid and there is no evidence of component damage. It continues with the random outages. There seems to be ample insulation under the pcb. I doubt the isolated preamp is involved because the outages occur only when the amp rail is disturbed, perhaps by flexing?  The sound continues to go out from either putting the lid on, installing the knobs, or randomly. Speaker wiring is solid. Any ideas what would cause this?

Thanks...Rich

Thanks guys, I figured. I just wanted to make sure it wasn't some known quirk with a component.

Rich

I'm new to the forum, so Hello ! About a decade ago I bought a NOS 200A, complete with all the tags still affixed and the small bench seat. Shortly thereafter the piano would randomly cut out (no sound). the power indicator lamp would stay on, but no sound. During one of these episodes I went and removed the lid to try and see anything obvious. Nothing burnt and all wiring looked intact. I tried gently pushing down on the IC board to maybe seat it better when the sound suddenly came back. After doing this a few (or more) times I could get it to  stay on for anywhere from five minutes to a couple of hours. It got so that I kept the lid unscrewed so I could repeat the procedure as needed. I eventually got disenchanted with the thing and put it in storage, where its been for about eight years. I am newly retired and now have more leisure time. I would like to try and finally fix the Wurly. Sounds like it might be a cold solder joint somewhere on the board. Since it was basically new, I doubt any of the electronics would be defective and also considering I could eventually get it to play.

Has anyone come across this problem? It most likely is confined to the board, like I said, a little downward pressure and she plays. I wouldn't think it is from something over-heating, as once I got it to play it (sometimes) would play for hours. Any ideas?

Thanks,
Rich