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Messages - DoctorTeeth

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Is that output on your wurli set up as an aux out? If it is youd have much better luck if you plugged the signal from the wurli into an amp and then into the cabinet. If its a headphone jack it would send some (small) wattage to drive the phones (it should also kill the internal speakers when you plug into it), in theory the phones jack would drive an external speaker- but not very hard. Most folks use the aux out run to an amp/direct box/pa system.

Hope this helps!

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The Wurlitzer Electric Piano / Re: My 200 just got a warneck/retrolinear!
« on: February 17, 2019, 06:17:38 PM »
Visited a friend and trusted tech the other day and he was working on two wurli’s, he showed me how to carefully ease the key bushings with a pair of pliers (although he has the proper tools), today i went ahead and eased each key on my 200 with a pair of needle nose and a thin flat piece of steel stock on the side of the key to keep from chewing up the wood. Worked like a charm, and saved me some cash! A little bit went a long way! Now only a very few number keys dont return with the sustain pedal down, and they all function very well without the pedal depressed!

Could the lack of return be due to impropper regularion? Ive got the “good” wrench for adjusting the capstans, but havent touched them.

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My tan top 200 has an “L plate” 65733L. Its dated may 19th 1971 in the keybed.

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The Wurlitzer Electric Piano / My 200 just got a warneck/retrolinear!
« on: February 16, 2019, 02:33:41 PM »
The wurli I have been working on overhauling just got an ep200 board and a set of reed shields from retrolinear, and I am impressed. I will admit I still have some work to do in the keybed/easing bushings (those tools/shims/rail felts are on the way), but the amp rail is now basically done, and it sounds great! Ive done all the amp rail modifications one at a time to kind of gauge the differences and draw the process out a little (I like to tinker). The first thing I did was make a new pickup cable out of some xlr and an rca plug/electrical terminal crimp ends, that alone was a big jump in noise reduction, then I twisted and foil covered the ac input lines from the transformer (I actually unscrewed the transformer and flipped it 180 when I did this as it added extra legnth to the ac lines, and also added an inline fuse holder), those two things alone (pickup cable/transformer mod) were very very effective at killing hum. I also installed new speakers after the transformer mod, because I like to party. Last night I removed my damper combs and added the reed shields, they fit very well and removed a touch more of the noise. The reduction in noise in each step actually seemed like it made the amp “louder”, although I am fairly certain this perception of more volume was more related to the fact that there was less background noise after each step. Although when I would power the amp on there was still crackle/hiss (which I imagine was some of the caps on the original amp charging up), it sounded good!

This morning I installed the new amp board, and I will say that it actually IS louder than the old board. Its not like plugging into an external amp loud, but for sure has a much higher output than the old amp. Tonally it sounds more clear, or maybe more full range as the original amp sounded pretty dark in comparison (which could also be due to component age). The vib sounds as youd expect and its got some really nice bark to it! Its also so quiet in terms of noise floor its hard to even tell its on when at rest. As a package deal with the shields the retrolinear kit is a really nice upgrade to a stock 200!

 

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The Wurlitzer Electric Piano / Re: Damper setup on a 200.
« on: February 10, 2019, 12:54:43 PM »
Yes, the damper arms luckily all still have their resective springs. I was very very careful removing the damper regulation screws, and when i went to put them back in i held the sticker with one hand and then rotated the screw backwards with the other (lefty lucy) until i felt it “hop” on the threading in the wood on the sticker and then was able to more or less use my hands to get the damper screw back in. This helped align the threads with the ones already in the wood and made for a much easier replacement....


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The Wurlitzer Electric Piano / Re: Damper setup on a 200.
« on: February 09, 2019, 07:35:25 PM »
https://imgur.com/gallery/OwZCJha

There you go. I couldnt figure out how to convert my image type...luckily it all came out well! The wurli is much much happier now. Today i did the transformer ac shielding mod, and i made a new pickup cable the other day with some scrap xlr, what a difference those two things made!!!

Any suggestions on what type of easing tool i should get for my key bushings? Im having a seemingly common issue of the keys not returning properly with the sustain pedal depressed. 

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I have some experience with the retrolinear amp in a 200a. The wurli our tour carries has one in it along with the variable depth knob add on. I will say that its a fantastic sounding wurli that gets all the classic tones youd expect it to and then some with the depth adjustment. This particular wurl was purchased from Nashville Pro Hammond and had been gone through by Murph. Aside from replacing the aux out jack at one point on the road Ive never had a problem with it, mechanically or electrically, although at our front of house guy’s request I run a hum eliminator (isolated transformer) inline from the aux out to the DI to clean up the signal a little before it hits the subboxes and further...

The vv amp is outside of my own personal experience, but from what ive read it has more of the “angry wurli” sound, or a more driven tone, basically that they break up a little sooner. 

That being said I ordered the ep200+reed shields from Murph for my own 200 Ive been working on overhauling, if its anything like the 200a board they make Im sure it will be great.

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The Wurlitzer Electric Piano / Re: Damper setup on a 200.
« on: February 08, 2019, 04:54:39 PM »
I think I have answered my own question. Im taking these springs off, im very happy that i didnt destroy anything messing with the sustain pedal with these things on! That could have been bad.

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The Wurlitzer Electric Piano / Re: Damper setup on a 200.
« on: February 08, 2019, 03:56:07 PM »
After watching the vintage vibe video on adjusting the sustain pedal again it seems that the particular wurli they showcase has no springs at all on the tops of the stickers........should these even be here? They dont seem to be in any of the technical drawings in the manual....and the extra whips i purchased didnt come with these springs either, just the usual jack spring. I cant seem to resize my images enough to get them to upload as attachments. Just for clarity’s sake the springs i am talking about are under the damper grommet on the top end of the sticker with the damper regulation screw going through it...maybe this was ment to be a quick and dirty fix for its really sluggish action it had when i bought it?

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The Wurlitzer Electric Piano / Re: Damper setup on a 200.
« on: February 08, 2019, 03:01:46 PM »
I went ahead and adjusted the 7/16th sustain bolt again so its tighter and now have the pedal lifting the dampers, but it seems like some of the springs on the stickers (which are all different sizes) seem to be too stiff which more or less bottoms out the key by pushing the whole whip down (from the back) at the same time the damper combs go up, some of the keys with shorter springs on their stickers do not dip, the screws travel up through the damper grommet and they function as youd expect a key to with a sustain pedal activated....could it be the spring sizes throwing this puppy out of wack?

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The Wurlitzer Electric Piano / Damper setup on a 200.
« on: February 08, 2019, 01:09:39 PM »
Hi all,

This is my first post, but i will begin by thanking all of you folks for the wealth of info this forum has to offer. I bought a project 200 and tore the whole thing down, did the protek lube job for all the action points/damper combs (big help!!), cleaned all the keyposts up and polished em all with flitz, cleaned out all the dust and dead spiders,lightly brushed the key bushings with a tooth brush, and put it all back togehter, not only does it work, but it actually works better than it did before i messed with it!

The main hangups i have with the project at this point is the dampers....the previous owner i think made some “adjustments” and ive been tryin to follow protocol in terms of the service manual (i work as a guitar tech/keyboard tech for touring bands so im not a total greenhorn, but i know more about guitar work). The first issue i had was that the bass side of the dampers were all working great, as well as the first 4 or so of the trebel side, no matter how much i adjusted the damper screws on the dampers to try and get them to make proper contact with the reeds it was to no avail. So i thought id adjust the whole damper via the 7/16th nut on the sustain spring/assembly, after giving it a whole turn i was able to get all the dampers set right....BUT now that ive hooked a sustain pedal to it (it didnt come with one) i cant seem to get the dampers to lift when i press the sustain pedal down (i have adjusted the cable in the pedal some for greater pull). When i do press the sustain pedal it changes the key height all over the board (seemingly at random- but im sure there is a reason for this) and the dampers dont appear to lift freely like ive seen in some video tutorials. Could this be caused by the treble half of the dampers not moving freely in the L bracket that holds it to the harp, because it seems to be fairly siezed up on one side....? i know this is a lot of info, but if anyone could point me in the right direction so im not endlessly going in circles with the setup id really be thankful.


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